Precision or 16g turbo?

[AWDforthewin]

Okay long story short I need a new turbo (small blown 16g real MHI) .. If I rebuild it it will be done professionally by FP which will need everything replaced so around $500.. Or I can spend $780 and get a precision turbo rated anywhere from 350-520 hp..

So my question is are precision turbos any good I don't know much about them? And I will only be pushing around 350-380 until I build my motor in summer then I will be bumping it up to about 500 with all supporting mods.

So can I run the 520hp rated precision turbo with my 350-380hp goal (until summer) with upgraded full fuel system and a good tuning job and FP race manifold to full 3" exhaust?

For 200 dollars more I feel like a brand new stronger turbo would e more cost effective since in 6 months I will need a stronger one anyways..

And no if I rebuild my 16g it will be by FP and fully balanced that's it..

Any help appreciated thanks!!

 

[ILL eagle]

Go with a brand new precision turbo for the extra few bucks.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I'm running what's basically a stock 6 bolt I rebuilt in my garage 6 yeaars ago, currently @ 600whp on low boost and conservative tune on the new setup for now.

Previous setup was smaller with a 59mm Borg S200sx. Was likely making a bit more than 600whp on kill mode @ 38psi, but no dyno time to verify.

Your mileage may vary..

 

[AWDforthewin]

I'm running what's basically a stock 6 bolt I rebuilt in my garage 6 yeaars ago, currently @ 600whp on low boost and conservative tune on the new setup for now. Previous setup was smaller with a 59mm Borg S200sx. Was likely making a bit more than 600whp on kill mode @ 38psi, but no dyno time to verify. Your mileage may vary..

Holy tits 600whp on a stock motor?? Like stock internals and all? What supporting mods do you have to run 600whp currently?

Go with a brand new precision turbo for the extra few bucks.

They done come with dsm flange though and I have a brand new FP ported race mani. :/

 

[black97spyder]

Its not the hp that is going to kill a motor, its going to be the torque that ends up breaking a rod. But I also garantee that landspeed also has a great tune on it which helps keeping things from going boom.... I wish I could find a 6 bolt block so I could build a stock-like motor similar to landspeed's that will hold tons of hp and not end up spending a ton of money on the build like I did with my built 7 bolt .

 

[AWDforthewin]

Yes that would be nice!! Haha

 

[black97spyder]

Yeah it would be great !! They've been proven deep into the 9's and 550hp with a stock 6 bolt that just has a good H.G., cams, some ARP headstuds and of course a good tune... which is more than enough power for most people

 

[bigbird94]

It doesn't sound like you are experienced enough for a big turbo. Buy a 14b or 16g and a street tune and do sime learning first.


Seriously.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Holy tits 600whp on a stock motor?? Like stock internals and all? What supporting mods do you have to run 600whp currently?

Yes ~600whp, on a Mustang Dyno at that

For now, the short block is my weak link. Everything else was intended to support 100lbs/min worth of air flow.

Loose P-to-Ws and ring gaps to deal with the added heat are a big reason is survived this long in my opinion.. because originally I only had pump gas as an option. Now that I'm on E85 and still have a large multi-nozzle water injection system on board, that margin "should" be further increased.

To support the way I like to wind out fairly high, I opted for ACL Race bearings on both rods mains (grooved) as well as ARP rod bolts to keep it together. ARP Head studs as well. A girdle and main studs would probably have been a good idea but I didn't think it was necessary at the time. I have routinely wound out to a self-imposed redline of 9250rpm on this bottom end. We didn't go that high on the dyno this time around but I have on the street a couple times before putting it away for the season and it doesn't feel like it's falling off any.

Torque is kept artificially low at the most moment.. low 11:1AFRs, gentle timing attack and Iow boost.

That combined with 8.0:1 CR Static, big cam, sheet metal intake, big tube exhaust manifold and an 86mm turbine wheel in a 1.2x A/R housing all geared for top-end let me make power on rpm without punishing the rods through crazy cylinder pressure.

Its not the hp that is going to kill a motor, its going to be the torque that ends up breaking a rod. But I also garantee that landspeed also has a great tune on it which helps keeping things from going boom.... I wish I could find a 6 bolt block so I could build a stock-like motor similar to landspeed's that will hold tons of hp and not end up spending a ton of money on the build like I did with my built 7 bolt .

You're correct, if we assume a clean tune and diligent machining/assembly.. the limit is primarily a function of torque (cylinder pressure/heat) when using the stock rods and pistons. Granted with enough rpm you could probably yank the wrist pin out if the rod bolts don't let go first.

The previous turbo spooled sooner, was using a "smaller" cam and at one point was using a stock 1G intake.. tune was much more aggressive to boot. It was very likely making about 525-550wtq then vs the peak 385wtq the current combo put down. That's about where I intend to stop and switch to aftermarket rods/pistons.

Provided she doesn't come apart from fatigue before then It's already suffered 6 years of being beaten like a rented mule after all.

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks for the great insight landspeed!!

And of course I would assume a clean tune and diligent machine work, as i have extreme OCD for perfection when im building a car

 

[AWDforthewin]

It doesn't sound like you are experienced enough for a big turbo. Buy a 14b or 16g and a street tune and do sime learning first. Seriously.

I've learned quite a bit I used to build pro street cars with my dad and I've helped build 3 dsms just not with the setup I would like to do