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Precision or 16g turbo?

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AWDforthewin

Proven Member
116
0
Feb 28, 2014
Springfield, Oregon
Okay long story short I need a new turbo (small blown 16g real MHI) .. If I rebuild it it will be done professionally by FP which will need everything replaced so around $500.. Or I can spend $780 and get a precision turbo rated anywhere from 350-520 hp..

So my question is are precision turbos any good I don't know much about them? And I will only be pushing around 350-380 until I build my motor in summer then I will be bumping it up to about 500 with all supporting mods.

So can I run the 520hp rated precision turbo with my 350-380hp goal (until summer) with upgraded full fuel system and a good tuning job and FP race manifold to full 3" exhaust?

For 200 dollars more I feel like a brand new stronger turbo would e more cost effective since in 6 months I will need a stronger one anyways..

And no if I rebuild my 16g it will be by FP and fully balanced that's it..

Any help appreciated thanks!!
 
"For 200 dollars more I feel like a brand new stronger turbo would e more cost effective since in 6 months I will need a stronger one anyways.."


You answered your own question. PTE turbo's are awesome i run a JB 5858 and love it. So long as its properly installed and taken care of you will be fine and love it. The BB option is much better but ofcourse its pricier. Hope that helps. If you want my opinion buy the 5858 you will love it.
 
Running(well, ran) a 5858 for 4500 miles. Still in great shape. 63 ar dsm flanged. Have seen over 50lbs min on it. I would just go t3 if i were you and get something a bit bigger than the 5858. Not a bad turbo from my personal experience. Has performed well.
Im down due to ring failure in #2 as of now and will be doing awd swap this summer. I may keep the 5858 on there, run a 3" bumper exit and see how high i can take that thing. Since ill be awd/auto i doubt ill see the numbers i would on my current fwd/mt but i bet i can eek out 55 lbs/min at 35 psi before its completely choked.
Thats why i would suggest a t3 no matter what. Gives you plenty of room to grow. Backpressure is no good LOL.
PTE has a mixed rep. FP/garrett/bw/mhi all have very good reputations, so take from that what you will.
 
Wouldn't you rather have something you can grow into? At the the end of the day it's your car and you have to decide you want to put on a 16g and stay within it's limits or get the precision turbo and have room to grow. Personally I would go with a good t3 manfold and the precision turbo
 
If I go the 16g route I'll have to talk to him for sure!!

However I may end up going the precision route if you guys believe in their turbos? It kinda seems like some of you love yours and some are kinda "iffy" about them haha any real reason why you wouldn't run one?

And they have them ranging from 360-620hp all for the same $775. If my final goals are around 500-525 but that won't be for 4 or 5 months would running a turbo with a rating of say 550 on a car with only 350 ish be a bad idea? Will the turbo even be able to hit boost or will it just take awhile to get up to full boost? That's my main concern is if I slap on this 550hp capable turbo and for the next 4 months I can't hit boost at all.. And will I be able to keep the 350ish hp if I have good tuning and etc?

Well be able to keep it down to 350hp with the big turbo.. until I finish gathering all my motor parts?

and the Forced Performance race manifold that's like $300 is a T3 right?

The one I feel like a lot of people have ?
 
What's the difference the t3 t4 all that stuff I've never looked into? I just know a good buddie of mine pushes 523hp with that mani and a FP black setup

Difference between the t3 an dsm I mean haha but I was trying to say I don't know the difference in any of them *
 
Well, my experience is limited first hand, but i have read a lot. As far as lag is concerned, i wouldnt be too worried about it. Just completely forget the idea of what "stock" spool/power is like before you turn the key. You are going to have lag, even with the 58mm boostin and i are referring to. The T3 option would be better to max out the turbo.
Example: We both have identical engines but im running a ported 2g(which i am) and the dsm 5858 with a 63 hotside
You are running a T3 mani, ext gate, and a larger ar (83? iirc) hotside on the same turbo. Results: I might spool a hair quicker but when im choked out at xx psi, you'll be pulling ahead and running higher boost/more lbs/min. The lag may not even be different in that particular setup, but you get the point.

From my personal experience i would say the PTE is a good turbo, but i have very very limited experience with turbos. Perhaps look into a BEP/bw s362 or something? Thats a big ass turbo but it CAN be rebuilt (unlike PTE which you have to send it back to manufacturer for rebuild=costly). It might be a bit big for your needs though, thats the only downside.

Holsets are cheap options if you go bolt on or t3 either way. Finding a 6 blade isnt impossible either. And the rebuilds are cheap. Turbos have a rep as being bulletproof. Basically there are 101 options for you and your goals.
 
Thanks a lot of the info and I'm starting to lean more twords the holset hx35 and the Borg Warner s400sx3 (there's one brand new for $600 never used!)

Which would you rather have Borg or holset?
And which would be "cheaper" including oil lines and everything?
And I'm still looking for my answer on if I put on a big turbo can I keep it down to like 350-380 for the next 4 months until I build my motor? And how would one do this? Just keep boost down? Tuning?
 
From the sound of it, you're not really prepared for the small 16g, let alone anything larger. Post up your current mod list for starters. My recommendation would be to throw the cheapest thing you can on the car for now (used 14b maybe), and then start to build the car properly to handle a bigger setup. That will also give you time to read and learn what is involved in supporting a car at those levels.
 
I know I know the things huge but it's a good deal is the only reason I asked LOL..

Anyways I'm gather parts as of now so far I did end up getting a FP race manifold brand new and ported, I have a 3" down pipe, o2 housing with atmosphere dump, cattless 3" exhaust all the way back to a vibrant turbo muffler, AEM boost and wideband, full fuel system (still deciding on pump and injector size), ECM linkv3 on the way!

For what it's worth inwent from a t25 to a pte 6152 LOL it's not impossible. I skipped the whole mhi turbos thing

What supporting mods did you have when you went from the t25 to the PTE 6152? What have you done since then?

And my whole reason for this thread once again is I don't want to buy a small/stock turbo now than in 4 months I will just have to buy a bigger one.. Unless I ABSOLUTELY NEED TO! (I can deal with slower spool up time and everything. That's expected so long as my car will still function and produce boost properly)

Really leaning twords the hx35 since it's believed to be strong and reliable.. And the only thing I don't know how to do (I've installed a few with my buddie) is the oil lines for it

Almost forgot FRSF fmic and i will add a tial probably 38mm vband wastegate on the o2 housing for my turbo if I go bigger
 
Both mostly street however it will see around 30ish track passes a year but regardless I have several friends that daily drive their 6-700hp cars..

TAKE PRIDE IN WHAT WE BUILD! ;)
 
T25 to 5858. Only experience with any turbo car was 300 miles on the t25 for break in. Then out the door it went and in came the 5858. Of course,OP, i had all the supporting mods and built engine.

To answer your question: Yes you can take a 100lb/min capable turbo and if you have enough wastegate, you can run it at low power/boost. Its just pointless because of the lag. But if you intend to go big on horsepower as so many of us do in the longrun, i find no reason not to buy it once and be done with it.

If this is a daily driver then i take back what i said: just get a 16g and be happy. You may not like the lag that comes with a big turbo..... on a DD, that is.

For a weekend car i would say look at a turbo like you look at your fuel system/injectors: dont buy 2 or 3 til you get what you actually wanted in the beginning. Thats where money is wasted. Ask me and another 1,000 guys how we know. Buying things twice for no reason is insane.

If you cant tune, make sure you get the car to someone who can.

If a guy wants to go from stock to 700whp i see no problem with it. He is simply playing w more money and higher risk. The tune has to be safe. Very important
 
I know I know the things huge but it's a good deal is the only reason I asked LOL..

Anyways I'm gather parts as of now so far I did end up getting a FP race manifold brand new and ported, I have a 3" down pipe, o2 housing with atmosphere dump, cattless 3" exhaust all the way back to a vibrant turbo muffler, AEM boost and wideband, full fuel system (still deciding on pump and injector size), ECM linkv3 on the way!



What supporting mods did you have when you went from the t25 to the PTE 6152? What have you done since then?

And my whole reason for this thread once again is I don't want to buy a small/stock turbo now than in 4 months I will just have to buy a bigger one.. Unless I ABSOLUTELY NEED TO! (I can deal with slower spool up time and everything. That's expected so long as my car will still function and produce boost properly)

Really leaning twords the hx35 since it's believed to be strong and reliable.. And the only thing I don't know how to do (I've installed a few with my buddie) is the oil lines for it

Almost forgot FRSF fmic and i will add a tial probably 38mm vband wastegate on the o2 housing for my turbo if I go bigger


What supporting mods? Everything you would need... You can't skip out on those, i had pte1000's and ecmlink and a walbro 255 and ran 20psi until i got a fuel pressure regulator.. and now? Well look at my profile
 
Well, you know what turbo you want so figure out tuning, fuel, exhaust, valvetrain, bottom end and other shit thats very basica nd you have yourself a nice reliable and fast car. Btw, the 35 isnt going to be that laggy at all.
 
Sounds like a plan as said above^^ I've made a build list/plan!!

Just need to decide which first now.. Either build my motor and let it sit till I have money again for turbo which will be months. :( orrr put the 35 on stock internals with a good WG and tuning and keep it safe until I can build it!
 
Stock internala are fine as long as tuning is good and your not lean or getting knock. I had a built bottom end when i went to the 6152. I broke the motor in on the t25

Before the buikt 6bolt it was. Stock 7bolt with t25 and the furst car i had done anything mechanically to. Now look where i am LOL
 
Stock internala are fine as long as tuning is good and your not lean or getting knock. I had a built bottom end when i went to the 6152. I broke the motor in on the t25 Before the buikt 6bolt it was. Stock 7bolt with t25 and the furst car i had done anything mechanically to. Now look where i am LOL

Any idea how much it would be to buy a 6bolt and build it to withstand 600hp ? Anything I would need besides motor to swap out my 7 bolt if I go that route
 
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