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Please guide me to a budget 500 hp internals build!

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I have a set of Evergreen Rings for a 6 bolt, sitting on the motor. They look like typical normal rings so I was going to use them. They came with the 6 bolt my oldest son bought and looked ok for a stock rebuild. Thanks for the follow up, it helps everyone! :thumb:
I was worried about the bearings being a soft bearing is why I was questioning it. My preference is a tri metal "hard" bearing but when you start finding cranks that are cut twice in a motor, the only bearings you can get are Alumiglides by King or ACL, I can't remember where I found them (but a .040" cut 4g crank???.....it looked fine but everyone brings up "nitriding" which is just a surface treatment anyway). If I don't find a better crank, I will assemble it back the way it was.
Not to thread jack but I’m with you on the coating, I know many refuse to cut down a 4g63 crank but my theory is unless you’re going for huge power it’s perfectly fine, as I know several who have used a cut crank with proper bearing clearances making pretty good power for multiple seasons with zero issue. Though you have a second very valid point I’m with you on, I don’t know how I’d feel about having to opt for a softer bearing material once it’s taken so far down. Same reason I opted to pick up a set of ACL tri metals opposed to the brand new Sealed Power bearings I’ve had floating around for several years. However for a stock rebuild or a lower powered build I wouldn’t be bearing the bajesus out of on a regular occasion I’d probably use them without hesitation.
 
Thank you for this input! I will be doing assembling myself to learn from it. I bought all the spec measuring tools needed to save cost instead of paying labor id rather buy me own tools😅 if ever mine really needs a oversize pistons, which is what its looking like. Ill do this. How reliable is your motor now since the rebuild? And how much are you pushing at max?
Still getting it put back in the car so I have no data. I will be running mostly stock HP but should easily hold 300hp with the correct supporting mods/tune.
 
The evergreen rings and bearings I put in my gsx which is now my gst actually( robbed the drivetrain for spares my for real gsx which is the main car) I haven’t put many miles on them. Motor is barely broke in so can’t speak on the longevity. But my gsx I built with a similar set up with the NPR eBay kit.

NPR pistons/rings on original 7 bolt rods
King bearings
Stock crank
ARP head studs
New valves
BC 272 cams
BC springs and retainers
3g GSC lifters
Car makes 430 with uncontrollable boost; lots of timing pulled and letting out at 5500rpm

I have since fixed the boost control issue and about to head back to the rollers to get it finalized. I’d imagine full rpm range with timing put back in should yield 440 on 93

This winter I’m switching to e85 and plan to up the boost with my electronic boost controller and will probably settle with 470ish and I’ll be happy. These motors are strong in my opinion and the weakest link to the 7 bolt are them skinny rods. They don’t like the torque.
-Daniel
 
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Any OEM/OEM replacement pistons would be sufficient for your 300hp goal. How you build the engine would be more critical for the reliability of engine than what brand parts you use. If you have never built a reliable 4g6 engine before then don't go expensive parts. It would depend how good you can build and how much money and time you can spend, but if I were you I would consider to spend more time to inspect the block/crank/rods/oil pump and spend more money for machining. I recommend to recondition the rods and replace the rod bolts with new or ARPs and line hone the block. This would make the engine/bearing life much longer and reliable.
In case if you go with 7 bolt pistons, the link below may give you some idea.
 
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