2G Forged internals for 400 hp?

[98gstJames]

So I blew my car up about a month ago and have since then pulled the motor out of the car and have it fully pulled apart and ready for the machine shop, I’m planning on getting a new crank, rods and piston heads along with cams and a valve spring kit and intake and exhaust valves, so pretty much the whole motor, yes expensive but I want to make good power and have it not break again. I’m really just trying to make good power just with the internals and my 16g turbo and boost controller, while keeping the air fuel mixture pretty close to stock, so I’m probably going to shoot for the 400hp range. Pretty much what I’m wondering is if there is any way to upgrade the oil system to make sure I get good oil delivery on all bearings and make sure my temp stays down?

 

[Thecarfixerguy]

I’m building mine for about the same target HP. If cost is an issue I would go for a better turbo over the cams and springs. The stock head is pretty solid and my research suggests the cams and springs aren’t necessary until you start high reviving, which the 16g will run out of steam before you need the extra airflow from the cams.

As far as oil goes, the engine tends to stay well lubricated. If you threw a bearing it was probably just from normal wear and tear or maybe it was run low on oil at one point in its life.

A lot of people choose to delete the balance shafts and oil squirters which will increase the available oil for the engine, but you will have to port the oil relief valve in the oil filter housing to make sure there’s not too much oil pressure which can also cause issues.

I’m no expert, so someone chime in if I’m wrong here. I just started working on my build so I’ve been researching all this stuff recently myself.

 

[98gstJames]

I’m building mine for about the same target HP. If cost is an issue I would go for a better turbo over the cams and springs. The stock head is pretty solid and my research suggests the cams and springs aren’t necessary until you start high reviving, which the 16g will run out of steam before you need the extra airflow from the cams.

As far as oil goes, the engine tends to stay well lubricated. If you threw a bearing it was probably just from normal wear and tear or maybe it was run low on oil at one point in its life.

A lot of people choose to delete the balance shafts and oil squirters which will increase the available oil for the engine, but you will have to port the oil relief valve in the oil filter housing to make sure there’s not too much oil pressure which can also cause issues.

I’m no expert, so someone chime in if I’m wrong here. I just started working on my build so I’ve been researching all this stuff recently myself.

I did want to get to a little bit of a higher revs and have somewhat of a chop at idle so I wanted to go with the cams, I already have a 16g on the car so that’s done so I pretty much just wanted to do the internals from top to bottom.

 

[pauleyman]

I did want to get to a little bit of a higher revs and have somewhat of a chop at idle so I wanted to go with the cams, I already have a 16g on the car so that’s done so I pretty much just wanted to do the internals from top to bottom.

400 on a 16g isn't going to happen. Cams also do not allow for higher revs if that's what you mean.

 

[98gstJames]

So got the crank and pistons in the block but my only problem is now the crank mark doesn’t line up with tdc it sits halfway in between strokes when it says it’s tdc according to the mark, when it put it at tdc the mark is way off, not even sure how this could happen considering that plate can only go on in one spot, I rotated the motor multiple times to see if I was just missing something and I still had the same results and I just don’t get it, any ideas?

 

[curt-s]

Pics or it didn't happen.

 

[DSMPT]

considering that plate can only go on in one spot

You can still install it on backwards. Just try to flip it and see if you would have TDC correctly. If the crank key is not at 9 o'clock when you set the timing mark, then you have the plate on backwards.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Flip your timing plate over. It's on backwards

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

You can make 400 on a 16g but it involves the ideal match of parts and it’s easier doing so with another turbo, straight engine internals isn’t going to mean you make 400 on a 16g, that and with your theory on camshafts your mind is thinking more like a naturally aspirated engine and forced induction doesn’t work that way. I was able to make 420whp and 430wtq on one of my 16g’s but that was a combination of correct parts and tuning which made for an ideal situation, engine was an untouched 120k mile 6 bolt non turbo 4g63 with just different cams and ARP head studs, forged internals aren’t needed for that kind of power and aren’t going to help you make much more power by any means.

As far as cams to make it rev higher, doesn’t work like that in a forced induction application necessarily. Sure the right cams can make it capable of being able to rev higher safely along with the right combination of valve train parts, but that’s matched with a turbo that will still be making power that high, a 16g is NOT that turbo. No matter what cams you have a 16g is still running out of steam around 6500rpm, so matching something like a 280 cam to a 16g (or even many of the common 272s) would hurt more than help over something like HKS 264’s or even stock cams as it would be pointless to shift at anything over 6500-7k rpm when the turbo is falling off and not making any more power.

In short, go back to the drawing board and research the last 20 years of knowledge here based on the power you want and the turbo you’re using. You could spend thousands on every internal part off the shelf available just to end up making the car slower than the guy with just a 16g bolted to a mostly stock car with a tune. And keep in mind just because a few of us have hit that 400 mark with the 16g it’s not common or easily doable, something like a Fp green or Holset hx35 would get you there much easier depending on what fuel you’re using, if we’re talking any type of pump gas and not e85 or race gas a 16g is not hitting that 400 mark no ifs ands or buts about it.

 

[98gstJames]

You can still install it on backwards. Just try to flip it and see if you would have TDC correctly. If the crank key is not at 9 o'clock when you set the timing mark, then you have the plate on backwards.

Exactly what it was , I took it off looked at the plate and realized then I did put it on backward , lines up perfectly now

 

[DrewmHolland]

16g turbo is tiny and will pump really hot air past 5k rpms and just choke the motor. id recomend something like a GT35R from CX racing although im a 420a guy so all i have is numbers and no experience. a larger turbo will produce less torque but better top end hp which puts less torque stress on your internals

 

[Stapl3]

The whole allure of these cars is they come with the 4g63, which is 'overbuilt' from the factory. Building a 4g63 for 400hp is a complete waste of money.

16g turbo is tiny and will pump really hot air past 5k rpms and just choke the motor. id recomend something like a GT35R from CX racing although im a 420a guy so all i have is numbers and no experience. a larger turbo will produce less torque but better top end hp which puts less torque stress on your internals

You're recommending a counterfeit ball-bearing unit over the most popular, reliable, and proven unit on these cars for a quarter century now.