My old highschool car

[We're on Boost]

@awdtsi_90
Figure I should show you what this area looks like on my car. So here are 2 pics.
When I ordered my connector kits for this from Brad, he told me "On the 1G ECT and 1P250F, there are a few different size terminals, I will send terminals that are good for 18-20 gauge, let me know if you need larger."
I said, "I'd like to make the pigtails using 16 gauge, SXL 16." (engine compartment wire)
So he sent terminals "good for 18 to 14 gauge" plus some spares because I told him I'd like some spares in case I goof one up. And I sent him a few bucks extra for that.

The red tape is self-fusing silicone tape.

This stuff has been on there for 2 years. I just took the pics today.

 

[We're on Boost]

I did some tests with the 3:1 adhesive shrink I linked to in post #94. I like it better than any of the 2:1 non-adhesive shrink I've been using in the past, which I always bought from Fry's or NAPA.
This 3:1 is marked WTT SBG.
It is quite thick after shrinking but still fairly flexible.

I tested the 1/4" size (6.4mm) to see if it would shrink all the way down to .094" OD wire, and to .080" OD wire with no connector to hold the 2 wires together, so I could do a pull test later. It came down all the way to both of those wires and is firmly stuck to them both.
It is a little slower getting to shrink temp than my old 2:1 stuff.

For my uses, I would use this rather than Raychem DR-25 because DR-25 is only 2:1 shrink ratio and I don't think it has adhesive inside. DR-25 is very flexible though, which is good. TE Connectivity DWP-125 that Tuskee Tuner mentioned is another 3:1 adhesive lined tube that I'd like to try sometime. TE/Raychem items have pretty good product data sheets which is nice.

In the pic, the red wire is .080" OD, the yellow wire is .094" OD, the grey wire is .120" OD, the lump in the middle of the red shrink is a Del City parallel connector, both shrinks are 1/4" WTT 3:1 heat shrink:

 

[awdtsi_90]

I solderd the wires, and used heat shrink, started the car and everything seems to be working. The first start up was rough and it died then i restarted it and feathered throttle and it stayed running by itself. The first log is a decent idle time.

This 2nd log i didn't trouble with it staying running right after start up. I will be posting pictures here shortly. P.s. I know my soddering isnt the best at all but will work Great news tho No check engine light and no codes thrown!!!!!

 

[awdtsi_90]

I know i probably shouldn't have but i couldn't resist just to hear it. Here is a log with the car on antilag. It sounded so awesome . It start at 10 seconds.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Here are the pictures of wires soldered. heat shrinked & the motor bay itself. The before & after are pretty good I feel like.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Put a new gauge cluster in as my RPM gauge wasn't working. New one is in and still not working so I went looking for the noise filter and came across the 20 amp mpi fuse on the battery cable is blown. Not sure how long that has been either or what issues it would even cause while running tbh.

Here is a pic of the blown fuse

 

[awdtsi_90]

Do anyone know what the 20 amp mpi fuse would cause with it being blown as thr car was tunning with it blown withouttheowing a dct? I am stopping by and getting another one today at autozone tho

 

[19Eclipse90]

The car should not run with a blown MPI fuse. Through that fuse, power is provided to the MPI relay and, ultimately to the ECU and fuel pump. Refer to this article, explaining just how it all works.

1G basic ECU MPI relay circuit function

Did you test the fuse to prove it was blown?

 

[awdtsi_90]

No I will test the fuse tomorrow tho. The only reason i say the fuse blew is because it looks mushroomed compared to the other ones. This pic is the fuse on the eclipse & isn't mushroomed out like the talon but it dose run so maybe it's a weird fuse or the fuse element was made thick on accident & it isn't blown. idk. but the car dose run with it like that but will test the fuse tomorrow at work with a continuity check.

 

[awdtsi_90]

The fuse tested good. It just threw me off being mushroomed. I am doing brake pads one eclipse this weekend and if I have time I will do the brake master cylinder on talon and limp her down the road. I'm not going to drive it untill I get the bearings switched out because it isn't good to be flopping around in there .

 

[TuskeeTuner]

The tachometer is driven by the transistor/ignitor unit. The output is from an OR gate with an inverted output. If your tach isn't functioning and yet the engine is running on both coils, then you have another wiring issue.

1G DSM Circuit Diagrams - Electrical Factory Service Manual

This is the 1G Mitsubishi Eclipse / Eagle Talon Factory Service Manual covering:Electrical - Circuit Diagrams - Section 8 Continued96 pages - 6MB -- use the link below to access.Here is the direct link from my Google Drive - You must be registered to see element.

www.dsmtuners.com

Section 8-74 Circuit diagrams - MPI Circuit

 

[We're on Boost]

The tachometer is driven by the transistor/ignitor unit. The output is from an OR gate with an inverted output. If your tach isn't functioning and yet the engine is running on both coils, then you have another wiring issue.

Wow you're up late like me

That page 8-74 is in a 1991 manual and is good for 1991-94, but the 1990 is different there.
Here's a photo we got from @19Eclipse90 a couple years ago, from the actual 1990 FSM.
You can see the Noise Filter in the circuit that goes to the Tacho, on page 8-71.

That reminds me, up in post #106 @awdtsi_90 says he "went looking for the noise filter".
Nick, did you ever find your noise filter?

 

[awdtsi_90]

I have the area but havnt been able to find it. I havnt been messing with thr car at all from not having time to start anything. I should this weekend or next week. I know it's a silver small rectangle plug in over by the fuel injector side of harness. Going to follow the wire harness and see if i can't feel it. I have seen where you take off th4 casing and put a jumper wire with 2 male connectors

 

[We're on Boost]

I have the area but havnt been able to find it. I havnt been messing with thr car at all from not having time to start anything. I should this weekend or next week. I know it's a silver small rectangle plug in over by the fuel injector side of harness. Going to follow the wire harness and see if i can't feel it. I have seen where you take off th4 casing and put a jumper wire with 2 male connectors

Yeah it's a small metal (not plastic) rectangular thing. It normally is bolted to the stay that helps to hold up the intake manifold. But when it falls off of there, or if somebody unbolts it from there and forgets to bolt it back on, it will usually be hanging down at the bottom of the firewall, or even laying on top of the frame crossmember that is down there.
Marty has 3 pics of where it is supposed to be in post #4 in this thread. They get camouflaged by the corrosion.
So that's the first place to look.
If you can find it, and find the connector on the harness that it plugs into, that will be great. Because if it is just plain not there or if it is unplugged, then there's no way for the signal to get to the tach. It's possible that if yours was lost, the person at the time might have wired the 2 connectors in the harness plug together, to jumper it. Sometimes that actually works (according to a few people). I wouldn't do it though. If you jumper that connector on the harness, you should jumper it with a resistor of about 2,200 ohms.

If you can find the filter, and the connector, and if you have a multimeter, you could disconnect it (carefully) and check the resistance of the filter. It should be about 2,200 ohms. If the resistance is infinite (no continuity) or even just extremely high, that would kill the signal to the tach too.

Later in that same thread that has Marty's pix we figured out what's inside the filter and showed it with a diagram and a chart. It's just a resistor of 2,200 ohms and a capacitor of 2 nanoFarads, and the capacitor connects to ground (the filter case which is supposed to be bolted to ground metal). So it's not hard to build one by hand if you wanted one that is electrically identical to the real thing.

If you want to look for it by following the main harness to where the connector for it is, there are some pix and diagrams that would help in this thread by Brian. The noise filter connector there is labeled B-00.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Still need to get the bearing installed & brakes bled. But here is a video of thr talon running down the street!

 

[awdtsi_90]

also the noise your hearing is from the e brake I am pulling to slow slow down. But so far thr talon seems to be there. Clutch pedal has almost no spring to it but it holds the gear. It has less then 5,000 Miles and 10 years ago & when I had it the pedal was very springy. It is a ACT stage 2. Maybe bleeding again will help. Would a slave or master cylinder cause that? what would cause the clutch to not be springy at all? Also in my eclipse the clutch blew or something broke in it which is why th4 talon got put on most important burner. The talon is going to shop on the 14th for the bearing & brakes, maybe see about why the pedal is weak if I can't fix it by then.

Bummed about the eclipse but that is forcing the talon get up and going Riding a motorcycle for 20 min at °40 temp while on highway sucks at 4 in the morning


Idk how to do clutch at all either and it looks pretty intimidating . Pulling a motor and tranny is intimidating itself haha

 

[CrackedDSM]

also the noise your hearing is from the e brake I am pulling to slow slow down. But so far thr talon seems to be there. Clutch pedal has almost no spring to it but it holds the gear. It has less then 5,000 Miles and 10 years ago & when I had it the pedal was very springy. It is a ACT stage 2. Maybe bleeding again will help. Would a slave or master cylinder cause that? what would cause the clutch to not be springy at all? Also in my eclipse the clutch blew or something broke in it which is why th4 talon got put on most important burner. The talon is going to shop on the 14th for the bearing & brakes, maybe see about why the pedal is weak if I can't fix it by then.

Bummed about the eclipse but that is forcing the talon get up and going Riding a motorcycle for 20 min at °40 temp while on highway sucks at 4 in the morning


Idk how to do clutch at all either and it looks pretty intimidating . Pulling a motor and tranny is intimidating itself haha

As someone who never pulled a trans in his life by himself, I recently(within the last year) had to bite the bullet and pull mine to change the clutch.

With that said, don't sweat it brother. It's super easy. Something that changed my life is the advice I was given. You don't have to try to rush to do it in a single day, go slow. Remove a couple bolts, then go inside and chill. Come back later and remove a few more things. Go back and chill.


It's very straightforward. I did it by myself with hand tools and a jack. I ended up having to drop and install it like 4 times so I'm an expert at it now. The only tricky part is the passenger side axle may fight you a bit trying to come out, my advice there is get a bungie cord(or someone who can hold the axle level) and turn the axle slowly while you twist/flick your wrist with a pry-bar. It'll pop right out no sweat even with the most stuck of c-clips.

But yeah. Don't be intimidated. After you move the intercooler pipe and various stuff out of the way, it's like 10 bolts including the slave cylinder bolts and engine mount bolts. Pull the trans back, slowly lower the jack. Done. I do suggest getting some cardboard down on the ground and using that to "slide" the transmission out from under the car though. It'll save you some finagling.

 

[pauleyman]

I'll do you one better on axle removal. Put a square shank screwdriver behind it and use a crescent wrench. No effort. Pops right out.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Thank you guys. That will be something that I'll do in spring when it gets warm . Sorry to ask guys but would a master cylinder that dosnt leak still cause a weak pedal if the car sit for 10 years? It dosnt leak but pedal has almost no pressure but hold in gear fine. I did bleed it and it seemed to help just barley tho. Sunday it will be almost 70 for th4 high so I will bleed it a dew more times and see if that dose it.

 

[awdtsi_90]

also would it be easier to pull the tranny without pulling the motor?

 

[We're on Boost]

Car sounds good!

Clutch pedal has almost no spring to it but it holds the gear. It has less then 5,000 Miles and 10 years ago & when I had it the pedal was very springy. It is a ACT stage 2. Maybe bleeding again will help. Would a slave or master cylinder cause that? what would cause the clutch to not be springy at all?

would a master cylinder that dosnt leak still cause a weak pedal if the car sit for 10 years? It dosnt leak but pedal has almost no pressure but hold in gear fine.

If you mean that when the pedal is up high or all the way up, it doesn't push back much, then there is an odd thing it could be (aside from the usual other problems like weak pressure plate or something bad in the slave or master cylinder). The odd one is that goofy looking over-center spring. That is supposed to work against you in the upper part of the stroke, and work with you (help you) down lower in the stroke closer to the floor.
It could have broken or become detached somewhere.
It's under the dash near the clutch master cylinder, like this:

 

[awdtsi_90]

Thank you!!! I hear a squishy sound when it gets about half way so i am assuming that's the master cylinder. Ray @ fusion works racing is replacing both the master and slave cylinder. Also the bearing for the intermediate shaft is being put in.

While i was putting gas in the talon I noticed a fuel leak. The hose going from the fuel neck down to the gas tank had a hole in it and so I replaced it. Here is the old one and now the new one on.

Also have new tires put on and ready for the shop on Thursday.

 

[We're on Boost]

Ray @ fusion works racing is replacing both the master and slave cylinder. Also the bearing for the intermediate shaft is being put in.

Good. I hope that shop works out well for you.

The hose going from the fuel neck down to the gas tank had a hole in it and so I replaced it. Here is the old one and now the new one on.

The new fuel hose looks good. Can you tell me where you got it and what their part number is?

 

[awdtsi_90]

I went to autozone and found the best radiator hose that matched it they had hanging up in the back and then I cut the section out that matched at home. I looked through so many tho . All I know is it was a $41 hose but I needed a replacement then so didn't have a choice.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G AWD Fuel Filler Hose

All I know is it was a $41 hose but I needed a replacement then so didn't have a choice.

Unfortunately, sounds about right.