My old highschool car

[OhhShmit]

Well darn, that's a little worse if anything than the WOT pulls in the 2025.10.19-01 log.
Might as well put the hose back the way it was and we'll have to figure this out later.

Darn! Okay I’ll go put it back now!!

 

[We're on Boost]

Sometime take a look at the clock angle of the "wastegate lever" which is the little crank that the wastegate "arm" pulls on to close the wastegate.
Get a picture from about the same distance and angle as Nick's picture that I posted in # 619. I'd like to see if the clock angle of that little crank looks about the same now as it did back in, I think March when the pic was taken (was from post 288). Hard to tell but it looks like it's at about 6 ot 7 o'clock in the old picture.

Then after you get a picture like that, take hold of the "arm" and try to pull it to the right. Not real hard, but pull maybe 5 pounds on it to the right. If it moves to the right, that is opening the wastegate that is inside the turbine housing. If it will move with only 5 pounds pulling on it, then that is too easy, and probably the spring inside the actuator can is broken so the wastegate is just blowing open now from exhaust pressure.

If you disconnect the arm from the lever, then the lever (crank) should be free to rotate. Check to see if it is stuck. If it is stuck, it might be stuck partly open. It should be able to rotate counter-clockwise from where it was before you disconnected the arm. It should not be able to rotate clockwise from where it was. Only counter-clockwise.

I'm going to be gone tonight and tomorrow so won't be around in here. But I think checking out this wastegate and actuator is a good place to start.
Here's a pic to show "lever" and "arm".

Another thing to do could be to start getting rigged up to do a boost leak test at some point.

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay so I pulled on the arm and it barley moved I felt it at fist pull to the right slightly but after that it didn’t budge . Also I should clarify as you see their is a new key holding the arm in, when I got the car at first I noticed that arm was off and nothing was holding it so I went and bought a pack of those new ones and put it back on

 

[OhhShmit]

Another thing to do could be to start getting rigged up to do a boost leak test at some point.

Absolutely! I already have a sneaking suspicion the hoses currently look stock and not so great so I have been looking into new all around hoses anyways because I feel like that could be where my boost leak is “ If I Have Any Lol “

 

[OhhShmit]

Could anyone direct me to were I can find replacements for these hoses? I feel like they are well in need of a replacement

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok, I thought I was seeing a gross change in when boost comes up, but mostly what I was seeing is the difference between a 2nd gear pull and a 3rd gear pull.

Boost will come up at least 300 rpm later in a 2nd gear pull than in 3rd gear. That’s because everything happens so fast in 2nd gear that the turbo can’t keep up with it. In 3rd there is more time for boost to build.

Your pulls have been all 2nd gear pulls. Nick’s pulls were almost all 3rd and 4th gear pulls, hardly any 2nd gear.

So I went back through all of Nick’s logs since March 21, and all of yours, looking for pulls that could be comparable, and wrote down the numbers and looked at them, and I don’t think there is any gross difference. So probably I got all worried about nothing.

I could only compare 2nd gear pulls, which Nick only has in 1 log, which is the June 15, 2025 log.

I compared at 4600 rpm and 5000 rpm. I used MAF RAW Hz for the comparison even though it is pretty jumpy, because it is the only airflow measurement in there that isn’t effected by MAFComp which we changed. As for the jumpiness, well you can look at the curves and imagine a smooth curve through the middle of the shark-teeth and kind of decide what data you can use and what is just too junky. MAF, Airflow, and BoostEst are all lower now because we reduced the MAFComp, so those things aren’t comparable with the older logs.

So anyway I think the MAF RAW numbers are about the same now as they were in June, and also in your Sept 28 “Morning” log.

2nd gear pulls are not great for looking at this type of data, so we could say better if you would do a couple of 3rd gear WOT pulls to 5500 rpm or at least to 5200.

The change I thought I saw was gross enough that you would feel it pretty easy. If you aren’t really feeling that it’s different all of a sudden, then it probably isn’t! So what do you think? How does it feel to you?

 

[OhhShmit]

Honestly it feels better then before but that could just be me , also I ordered a AEM WideBand and it will be here Monday. Also Gary have you heard of phantom knock? And have you also heard of RIX Racing? If you don’t mind could you private message me I have some questions, I just don’t see it being important for the feed

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay so I pulled on the arm and it barley moved I felt it at fist pull to the right slightly but after that it didn’t budge

Good pics, looks like the "Lever" is in about the same position as it was back in March.
To be clear about the "at first it pulled to the right slightly" and "I pulled on the arm and it barely moved" - There shouldn't be any like slack in it when it is just sitting there like that. I mean, it should take at least 4 or 5 pounds of pulling the arm before it moves to the right at all. If it moves at all with no force (has some slack in other words) then that arm should be shortened a little.
It might already be as short as it will go.
It's a little scary how rusty it is.
It bugs me that there aren't any wrench flats on the part of the arm that is to the right of the lock nut. But that seems to be the normal way. They must think things aren't going to get rusty.
Here's how the adjustment on it looked in March, (from post 288). I don't think the position of the adjustment has changed at all. You can kind of count the threads that are out beyond the lock nut and compare to now. So the arm is probably the same as it's been for a long time. It might be ok if it is holding the wastegate actually shut with some force.
In post 288 Nick was thinking about trying to lengthen it. I said don't do that, and I don't think he did.

 

[OhhShmit]

Good pics, looks like the "Lever" is in about the same position as it was back in March.
To be clear about the "at first it pulled to the right slightly" and "I pulled on the arm and it barely moved" - There shouldn't be any like slack in it when it is just sitting there like that. I mean, it should take at least 4 or 5 pounds of pulling the arm before it moves to the right at all. If it moves at all with no force (has some slack in other words) then that arm should be shortened a little.
It might already be as short as it will go.
It's a little scary how rusty it is.
Here's how the adjustment on it looked in March, (from post 288). I don't think the position of the adjustment has changed at all. You can kind of count the threads that are out beyond the lock nut and compare to now. So the arm is probably the same as it's been for a long time. It might be ok if it is holding the wastegate actually shut with some force.
In post 288 Nick was thinking about trying to lengthen it. I said don't do that, and I don't think he did.

View attachment 777683

Yeah I honestly couldn’t even move it, It’s on their pretty firmly. I just went out and checked again she’s tight!

 

[We're on Boost]

Yeah I honestly couldn’t even move it, It’s on their pretty firmly. I just went out and checked again she’s tight!

Ok don't worry about the arm adjustment then. It's not worth it to risk bending some part of the Arm or especially the Lever.

 

[We're on Boost]

This car is still going, and I want to show where it's getting to with the Walbro 190 fuel pump and the stock FPR, stock fuel lines, and stock fuel filter.
Car is Speed Density now with a 3-bar GM type MAP sensor. Has the same Bullseye turbo which we think is an old 57 trim. 91 octane gasoline.

Taking the highest logged Fuel Flow number we've seen, which is 2547 cc/minute, converting that to gallons per hour, gives us 40.37 gallons per hour.
To put that on the Walbro 190 flow chart, we have to estimate the fuel pressure at the outlet of the pump like so:
FPR pressure + boost pressure + estimated pressure loss in the lines
= 37 + 24.3 + 6 (psi)
= 67.3 psi, about
So 40.37 gallons per hour at 67.3 psi goes on the chart as a red dot:

It's getting really close to the 13.5 volt line on the Walbro chart, so that's a little surprising.
The car doesn't have a rewire to the fuel pump, but it does have a 0 gauge cable from the alternator to the battery which helps quite a bit. It also has a solid seal on the fuel pump outlet instead of an o-ring, so there is for sure no leakage there.

Here's a shot of the log showing the 2547 cc/min fuel flow, 43.4 lb/min Airflow, and 24.3 psi of boost.
The LinWideband number goes down to 10.1 and stays there to the end of this pull which is to 6500 rpm. If pushing it to higher rpm, or doing this in 3rd gear, it would want more fuel than the 190 pump can do.
But this is pretty cool. You could have a turbo that comes up to 25psi of boost a lot sooner in the rev range than this one does, taper the boost down to ~20psi above 6500 rpm, and it would be a pretty wild street car still with the 190.

 

[OhhShmit]

This car is still going, and I want to show where it's getting to with the Walbro 190 fuel pump and the stock FPR, stock fuel lines, and stock fuel filter.
Car is Speed Density now with a 3-bar GM type MAP sensor. Has the same Bullseye turbo which we think is an old 57 trim. 91 octane gasoline.

Taking the highest logged Fuel Flow number we've seen, which is 2547 cc/minute, converting that to gallons per hour, gives us 40.37 gallons per hour.
To put that on the Walbro 190 flow chart, we have to estimate the fuel pressure at the outlet of the pump like so:
FPR pressure + boost pressure + estimated pressure loss in the lines
= 37 + 24.3 + 6 (psi)
= 67.3 psi, about
So 40.37 gallons per hour at 67.3 psi goes on the chart as a red dot:

View attachment 790839

It's getting really close to the 13.5 volt line on the Walbro chart, so that's a little surprising.
The car doesn't have a rewire to the fuel pump, but it does have a 0 gauge cable from the alternator to the battery which helps quite a bit. It also has a solid seal on the fuel pump outlet instead of an o-ring, so there is for sure no leakage there.

Here's a shot of the log showing the 2547 cc/min fuel flow, 43.4 lb/min Airflow, and 24.3 psi of boost.
The LinWideband number goes down to 10.1 and stays there to the end of this pull which is to 6500 rpm. If pushing it to higher rpm, or doing this in 3rd gear, it would want more fuel than the 190 pump can do.
But this is pretty cool. You could have a turbo that comes up to 25psi of boost a lot sooner in the rev range than this one does, taper the boost down to ~20psi above 6500 rpm, and it would be a pretty wild street car still with the 190.

View attachment 790840

I’m extremely happy with the progress we have made on the car! And I can’t thank you enough for dealing with me over the year

 

[jesse12345]

He helped me alot also and I can't thank him enough. Absolute solid guy!

 

[OhhShmit]

After months of work, late nights, and not giving up on this car… the Talon is finally back together after the tree crushed it.

Crazy to look back at where it started and see how far it’s come. Definitely wasn’t an easy road, but we saved it. Huge thanks to everyone who helped, supported, and kept me motivated through the rebuild.

At this point the only thing left is installing the rear quarter window and she’ll be fully complete again. Can’t wait to get this thing back out on the road where it belongs.