My old highschool car

[We're on Boost]

since we changed the injectors and fuel pump could that have caused a more accurate reading now where before since we were maxing out already it was not?

If the reading you are talking about is the reading on the Autometer boost gauge, then, no, none of the changes would have effected the accuracy of the Autometer boost gauge. But we have to look into your boost gauge a little bit.

That gauge has its own sensor if it is the sensor type. If it is the Sensor type, then the gauge only has wires going to it, no hose. The wires would go from the gauge to a sensor somewhere. Then the sensor would have a hose that goes from the sensor to a hose barb on the intake manifold.

If it is the Mechanical type, then it just uses a small diameter hose that goes directly from the gauge to a hose barb on the intake manifold.

Now I've been thinking all along for some reason that your gauge is the sensor type, but maybe it isn't.

If it is the Mechanical type, then the gauge will still be accurate no matter what changes you make to the engine and in ECMlink.
If it's the sensor type and you changed the gauge, then we need to look up the sensors and read about them.

 

[pauleyman]

You're wondering why its 15psi now where it was 20 before?

 

[pauleyman]

I read your profile also. Is the mods list complete?

 

[OhhShmit]

If the reading you are talking about is the reading on the Autometer boost gauge, then, no, none of the changes would have effected the accuracy of the Autometer boost gauge. But we have to look into your boost gauge a little bit.

That gauge has its own sensor if it is the sensor type. If it is the Sensor type, then the gauge only has wires going to it, no hose. The wires would go from the gauge to a sensor somewhere. Then the sensor would have a hose that goes from the sensor to a hose barb on the intake manifold.

If it is the Mechanical type, then it just uses a small diameter hose that goes directly from the gauge to a hose barb on the intake manifold.

Now I've been thinking all along for some reason that your gauge is the sensor type, but maybe it isn't.

If it is the Mechanical type, then the gauge will still be accurate no matter what changes you make to the engine and in ECMlink.
If it's the sensor type and you changed the gauge, then we need to look up the sensors and read about them.

They both are mechanical! And yes I’m glad you understood what I was saying! Sorry for any confusion!! That’s what I was wanting to know and my question got answered.

 

[We're on Boost]

And The intercooler and Hose are still stock, next week I have another appointment with my cousin to actually look at putting the FMIC on but I had to order a new set of piping because once again what came with Nick was not a full complete kit so I said screw it and ordered all new pipe

Well, hmm, this is good to know but still it was the stock intercooler and piping when Nick had it too, and boost was going up, almost too much.

 

[We're on Boost]

They both are mechanical! And yes I’m glad you understood what I was saying! Sorry for any confusion!! That’s what I was wanting to know and my question got answered.

Ok good! Yeah, the only thing that threw me for a sec was when you said "Tac" which I figured you probably meant the boost gauge

 

[pauleyman]

Well, hmm, this is good to know but still it was the stock intercooler and piping when Nick had it too, and boost was going up, almost too much.

Lots of things can affect boost. Is the mod list complete?

 

[OhhShmit]

Some of the readings in your logs

Well, hmm, this is good to know but still it was the stock intercooler and piping when Nick had it too, and boost was going up, almost too much.

Absolutely, Now on these recents logs that are WOT would you consider the boost essentially being to much or have they been reasonable for what we have been doing? I’m very curious about this line from the waste gate that installed wrong, Could you elaborate more on that on how we could address this later?

 

[OhhShmit]

Lots of things can affect boost. Is the mod list complete?

I just edited it now with the precision 1000cc and Walbro 190 fuel pump it should be correct besides it back on stock Intercooler I should specify!

 

[We're on Boost]

If it is the Mechanical type, then the gauge will still be accurate no matter what changes you make to the engine and in ECMlink.

So the gauge will still be accurate, but some of the numbers you see in a log could change from what we were seeing before. Like Boost Est.

 

[OhhShmit]

So the gauge will still be accurate, but some of the numbers you see in a log could change from what we were seeing before. Like Boost Est.

Okay that’s understandable, so at this point switching to sensor type at some point would be more ideal then mechanical?

 

[We're on Boost]

You're wondering why its 15psi now where it was 20 before?

I am yes. It's coming up a lot slower and not going as high as it used to.

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay that’s understandable, so at this point switching to sensor type at some point would be more ideal then mechanical?

Well there are pros and cons. The Autometer mechanical gauge is probably pretty accurate. And the mechanical gauges are probably more reliable.
But if you have a sensor type gauge, then you could in most cases wire the sensor to the ecu as well as to the gauge. Then you would be able to log boost.
There's a lot to understand about sensor gauges first before you buy one though, and the good ones are hella expensive. So don't just haul off and buy one

 

[OhhShmit]

Well there are pros and cons. The Autometer mechanical gauge is probably pretty accurate. And the mechanical gauges are probably more reliable.
But if you have a sensor type gauge, then you could in most cases wire the sensor to the ecu as well as to the gauge. Then you would be able to log boost.
There's a lot to understand about sensor gauges first before you buy one though, and the good ones are hella expensive. So don't just haul off and buy one

Totally understandable! I just want us to get accurate readings for these logs. I just want the car running good

 

[pauleyman]

I am yes. It's coming up a lot slower and not going as high as it used to.

What changes have been made?

 

[OhhShmit]

he March 21 2025 log with freshly cleaned injectors there was a lot of knock at high loads with the Timing going to 14 degrees.
Now the car might be ok with 14 degrees, but I think I’ll work up something that will take it only to 12 degrees to start with.

Do you think it will be a different outcome and able to handle it with the changes of the fuel pump and injectors? Could that be why it was getting Knock at High loads because technically the Duty Cycle was maxed with the stock injectors and fuel pump?

 

[OhhShmit]

What changes have been made?

Since I have owned the car, Precision 1000cc injectors, Walbro 190 Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, BOV with 18 pound Spring I believe And Full V3 From V3lite.

 

[We're on Boost]

Do you think it will be a different outcome and able to handle it with the changes of the fuel pump and injectors? Could that be why it was getting Knock at High loads because technically the Duty Cycle was maxed with the stock injectors and fuel pump?

We were getting knock well before the duty cycle was maxed. I'm looking at Nick's log 2025.03.21-02 and knock started at only 65% duty cycle. Timing at that point just before knock retard came in was 15 degrees. RPM was 4600. He backed off the throttle about half a second after the knock retard went over 5 degrees he must have had a close eye on the check engine light which was set to come on at 5 degrees of knock. This was just after he got the 450cc injectors cleaned.

I do think it should be a better outcome with the pump, injectors, and the street FMIC which should be quite a bit better than the stock sidemount intercooler.

BTW just as a suggestion, when you rename a log file, keep the automatic file name there as the start of the name, and then add the notes you want to add after that. It kinda helps when trying not to get things mixed up later, long later, no matter how long later. I mean, I let the file save automatically which it does when you stop the log. Then I edit the file name later. If it's a pain to do it that way, don't worry about it!

 

[OhhShmit]

We were getting knock well before the duty cycle was maxed. I'm looking at Nick's log 2025.03.21-02 and knock started at only 65% duty cycle. Timing at that point just before knock retard came in was 15 degrees. RPM was 4600. He backed off the throttle about half a second after the knock retard went over 5 degrees he must have had a close eye on the check engine light which was set to come on at 5 degrees of knock. This was just after he got the 450cc injectors cleaned.

I do think it should be a better outcome with the pump, injectors, and the street FMIC which should be quite a bit better than the stock sidemount intercooler.

BTW just as a suggestion, when you rename a log file, keep the automatic file name there as the start of the name, and then add the notes you want to add after that. It kinda helps when trying not to get things mixed up later, long later, no matter how long later. I mean, I let the file save automatically which it does when you stop the log. Then I edit the file name later. If it's a pain to do it that way, don't worry about it!

Okay I apologize for that! I’ll just save them as is if that helps!! I guess I should have known better . So Gary honestly at this point what would be our goal to get the car to a healthy running state all the time? Like I said over the past couple days those pulls from the logs have felt way better No break ups! But at idle just sitting still I can feel it breaking up some like it was in that video I sent behind the car. I’m not sure how to get an accurate video for you on that.

 

[OhhShmit]

Also question for the BOV. It came with a couple different springs and I believe the one I’m running currently is the 18 pound spring I will have to double check, Should I be running that spring or the smaller ones since I’m not technically going over 20psi as of right now?

 

[We're on Boost]

But if you have a sensor type gauge, then you could in most cases wire the sensor to the ecu as well as to the gauge. Then you would be able to log boost.
There's a lot to understand about sensor gauges first before you buy one though, and the good ones are hella expensive. So don't just haul off and buy one

I did a whole bunch of looking into this tonight, and I don’t think you should buy a sensor type gauge. Just get a MAP sensor and connect it to the ecu for logging. So then you’d be using the Mechanical boost gauge you already have as your real-time gauge, and the MAP sensor wouldn’t run any gauge at all, it would just go to the ecu for logging.

The reason I say don’t buy a sensor type gauge is because the ones I have looked at don't come with sensors that are good enough to use later in life as a MAP sensor to run speed density with. They are only good enough to run a gauge. So if you did switch to speed density at some point, you'd need to start all over again with a new MAP sensor.

I only looked at AEM and Autometer gauge kits though. So maybe it's not the end of that story. But it seems over the last few years that the AEM Stainless MAP sensors are the most reliable ones for running speed density. Unfortunately, the AEM boost/vacuum gauge comes with the brass MAP sensor which even AEM itself says is not good enough to run speed density. And people in here generally aren't using the AEM Brass ones to run speed density. They are using the stainless ones.

Autometer, their sensor type gauge uses their part # 2249 for the sensor. That sensor looks exactly like the omni-power sensors that have been getting a bad rep in here lately for too many failures. And whaddya know, the top customer comment on their own page for the # 2249 sensor says he has had 3 of these fail in 2 years and he is going to go back to a mechanical gauge. That's about like what we've heard from a few people in here about the omni-power sensors. So I wouldn't go that way.

Ok the other thing is, the AEM stainless MAP sensors cost around $165 right now and that's from Amazon. They don't even give you a wired connector with pigtails to go with it. They give you a connector kit which has the metal pins, the plastic parts, no wire, and some instructions, and you put it together. It would be easy for a first-time doer to trash one of these expensive sensors just by wiring it wrong or some other mistake. You have to find a 5 volt source on the car to run it with - which, people in here can help you with. I've forgotten it's been so long.

So one way to avoid that expense and risk - I could send you the AEM sensor that was on my car for a few years, which I had wired into my logger just for logging. I didn't even have a gauge on it. I mean free, sort of, just the cost of shipping. It's the 3.5 bar brass one. The same exact sensor that you would get if you bought the AEM boost gauge. I could test it at home before sending it. That would be just hooking it up to 5 volts and ground and measuring the signal voltage which should be about 1.67 volts or a hair less at my altitude which is 500 feet.
So that is a sensor that you wouldn't want to use someday for speed density (because it's the brass one), but it would be an inexpensive way to go in the meantime and if you blow it up it didn't cost much. It uses exactly the same wiring, connector, and mounting style that the stainless one uses, so making a swap to the stainless sensor would be pretty easy.
I have a couple of the AEM plug-and-pin kits so I could send you one of those, but I'd advise buying one that's all put together with pigtails, from a place like Casper's Electronics which has been around for a long time, and I've gotten one or 2 connectors from them before. I think it's this one. I have a product inquiry in to them about it. Maybe there are other places too.

No matter which way you go - sensor type gauge kit or just a sensor - you have to look for a place to put it in the car and mount it and do some wiring and some hose running.
When I had the brass 3.5 bar AEM in my car it looked like this - this is the sensor I would send you. It's near the right edge of the pic, it has "50 psia" stamped onto the brass wrench flats:

 

[We're on Boost]

Also question for the BOV. It came with a couple different springs and I believe the one I’m running currently is the 18 pound spring I will have to double check, Should I be running that spring or the smaller ones since I’m not technically going over 20psi as of right now?

Oh the BOV isn't what determines the boost. It's the wastegate that determines the boost. Your BOV is probably ok as it is. Although it sounds like it dumps externally which isn't the best way when you are using a MAF. But I don't really have any great ideas for how to change that.

So Gary honestly at this point what would be our goal to get the car to a healthy running state all the time?

I think the first thing to do is this (below):

Maybe it’s because of the wrong way that the boost hose is connected (from wastegate to manifold).

You could probably test for that pretty easy. Just do a couple of pulls to 5000 or 5500 rpm where you are holding the throttle to about 60% all the way through. Not WOT. In the same drive also do a 100% WOT pull for reference. Then we could see if the boost actually comes up faster when you are at part thottle.

Log a drive like that with the car just as it is now. Because that might tell us if the wrong way that the boost hose is hooked up is any big deal or not, and if it has anything to do with why the boost is lower now.

If the car is kind of almost dying when coming to a stop with the clutch in, I will have to look again for that thing in V3 Full that ECM says can help with that. It's back there somewhere in the posts.
For a smoother idle while the car is just sitting there, I don't know, I mean it could be something actually wrong or it could just be what many of us live with as the mods pile up, bigger injectors and so-forth. My car sounds a little bumbly at idle but it's much more modded so I don't think anything of it. If you want you can compare the idle sound that's in your video to the idle sound that's in my 2 videos in post #71 here.

Next time you log a drive, at the end of the drive when it's all warmed up, let it sit and idle for about a minute or even 2 minutes before you shut it off. Then there would be enough warm idle data in the log that we could run a MAF Comp Adjust on it to see what it suggests. Right now the latest MAF Comp Adjust gives such scattery results it's not very useful. I do think we could make the fuel trims at idle closer to 0. We could do that either by changing the MAF Comp adjust a little, or by reducing the Global deadtime. Either one will make your cold starts worse given that cranking fuel adjust isn't working. But let's have a good dose of warm idle with no throttle blips at the end of a drive.

If it's just a high-level goal you are talking about, then yes I think getting it running fairly nice and let's see how far it will go on the Walbro 190. That might be a good stopping point if you want the engine and transmission to last for a long time and not be breaking stuff all the time like some of us do in here

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay so I watched your lean spike video and that’s exactly how the cars running at idle! Before we did the install of the pump and injectors it ran how your video with no lean spike was! That was a perfect comparison thank you!!!! And yes like I have said a bunch I just want to have a little fun once and awhile but also aware that my car will last more then a year or so . As you can tell I have been doing more daily driving with the car then the wife because I want to make sure the car is running prim and proper. And ever since you turned on the Smooth idle it’s been way better, I Should clarify once again it’s just at idle only, it sounds exactly like your lean spike video. The drive and pulls are great so far no cuts!

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay Gary here is a log from this morning I did a couple pulls not WOT then there is a few of WOT also towards the end also. The last couple minutes of the log are pure idle time like you asked for so i hope this helps!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Okay Gary here is a log from this morning I did a couple pulls not WOT then there is a few of WOT also towards the end also. The last couple minutes of the log are pure idle time like you asked for so i hope this helps!

Just wanted to point out...

Your TPS is a little off at 0.67... Should be at 0.63 at idle. I see you're using the offset in ECMLink... just need to adjust a little more to get it to 0.63.

Your throttle position never actually gets to 0%... it hangs at 1% at idle. Your throttle cable might be a hair too tight and letting a little bit of extra air in or maybe the stop screw for your throttle plate needs to be adjusted. Might be why your idle seems to be a couple hundred rpms higher than the 850 that it is set for.