My old highschool car

[OhhShmit]

Yeah turn that puppy off
I see it was in there ever since Nick started posting and I didn't think it would activate. So turn it off and see if it changes how it runs in a pull. Hope it's better!

BTW is the boost gauge still in the car? Nick had one in there at one time as I remember.

Yes I have a boost gauge and Oil currently, and I’ll go turn that off now! What about the timing situation though?

 

[OhhShmit]

Got it turned off now!

 

[Stapl3]

Maybe you can explain though why it is coming on during a pull, with the parameters as they are, which has "and speed" set to less than 5mph.

To be fair it's not a pull, but if you look at the parameters vs the time in the log he says it occurs, it's enabling - albeit barely.

when the car had stock injectors and stock fuel pump, the MAF Comp set up like that helped a lot.

Does the car have a AFPR?

It would be cool if you could upload a log that has a stock 2g timing map in it. I don't know where to get one that has for sure a stock 2g timing map.

v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[OhhShmit]

I believe it is stock AFPR but I could be wrong

 

[We're on Boost]

Yes I have a boost gauge and Oil currently, and I’ll go turn that off now!

Ok good. They are Autometer Ultra-Lite ProComp, they should be good.

What about the timing situation though?

Back around in May of 2025, we reduced the timing at high loads to kill the knock. As I remember we reduced it some, I think to 10 degrees, and it still knocked which was really disappointing. So then a little later we reduced it to the low numbers that are around 6 and 4 like you see now and that took care of it.
I don't think we should change it until you do a little bit of WOT running up to 5000 or 5500 rpm. We don't even know what the boost is going to go to yet. So I don't think you should at this point put stock numbers in there, which are high, just risking the engine and then having to turn the timing down again. I think it would be better to creep up on the timing from where it is now, which is low, and see how it's going.

 

[We're on Boost]

Back around in May of 2025

I just checked, actually it was March 22 when we tried 10 degrees. Then it was March 24 when we talked about putting in the 6 and 4 numbers "in the block of cells that goes from 4000 rpm to 5500 rpm and is Load Factor 1.4 and higher."

 

[We're on Boost]

Does the car have a AFPR?

It has the stock FPR and there is no wideband on the car.

Got the 2G .eda file from that page. Thanks!

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay so what would you recommend we do from here as a plan? I want to make sure it’s running safely and good.

 

[We're on Boost]

Also it is not logging boost, but the sensor for the Ultra-Lite boost gauge should be pretty good for logging if it will work right on our 1g EGR Temp input. So that could be another project one day.

So it's a little short on instrumentation but fortunately the knock sensor seems to be working just fine!

 

[OhhShmit]

Also it is not logging boost, but the sensor for the Ultra-Lite boost gauge should be pretty good for logging if it will work right on our 1g EGR Temp input. So that could be another project one day.

So it's a little short on instrumentation but fortunately the knock sensor seems to be working just fine!

Ohh that’s interesting! I know that gauge works yes, but I’m surprised it’s not in the ECMLink

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay so what would you recommend we do from here as a plan? I want to make sure it’s running safely and good.

Right. I think go out and make a couple pulls just like the pulls you did in this last log and see if the dropout or whatever it was that happened, see if that is gone.

Those were still at partial throttle.

So after we look at those logs and if that dropout is gone, then I think you should make a WOT pull to 5000 rpm. Look at the log to see if there is any knock. If there isn't any, do another WOT pull to 5500 rpm. Then we'll see if that one has knock.
This would be new news, because neither you nor Nick has been doing any WOT.
We need to see if the boost will go higher, or maybe even lower, when you are WOT.
This is kinda unkown at the moment because of the wrong way that your boost hose is hooked up. So we should find out. Safely of course. Which is why I think we should creep up on it.

 

[OhhShmit]

Right. I think go out and make a couple pulls just like the pulls you did in this last log and see if the dropout or whatever it was that happened, see if that is gone.

Those were still at partial throttle.

So after we look at those logs and if that dropout is gone, then I think you should make a WOT pull to 5000 rpm. Look at the log to see if there is any knock. If there isn't any, do another WOT pull to 5500 rpm. Then we'll see if that one has knock.
This would be new news, because neither you nor Nick has been doing any WOT.
We need to see if the boost will go higher, or maybe even lower, when you are WOT.
This is kinda unkown at the moment because of the wrong way that your boost hose is hooked up. So we should find out. Safely of course. Which is why I think we should creep up on it.

Okay I absolutely agree! I’ll do a log tomorrow on my way to work the way I just did and if everything seems fine then I’ll do a WOT at the end of it before ending the log

 

[We're on Boost]

Ohh that’s interesting! I know that gauge works yes, but I’m surprised it’s not in the ECMLink

Right, it's not logging because the analog wire from the sensor only goes to the gauge. It doesn't go to any input on the ecu.
Hopefully the sensor has enough juice to run both the gauge and the miserable EGR input. Accurately. We would have to look at some things about the Autometer stuff, and then run a wire to the ecu from it.

Here's something that would be helpful in the meantime. Can you set up your phone or a GoPro or something to shoot video of your boost gauge while you are driving and making a log? We could sync the video to the log so that we'd know from the video what your boost is doing.

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay I absolutely agree! I’ll do a log tomorrow on my way to work the way I just did and if everything seems fine then I’ll do a WOT at the end of it before ending the log

Okie Dokie

 

[OhhShmit]

Right, it's not logging because the analog wire from the sensor only goes to the gauge. It doesn't go to any input on the ecu.
Hopefully the sensor has enough juice to run both the gauge and the miserable EGR input. Accurately. We would have to look at some things about the Autometer stuff, and then run a wire to the ecu from it.

Here's something that would be helpful in the meantime. Can you set up your phone or a GoPro or something to shoot video of your boost gauge while you are driving and making a log? We could sync the video to the log so that we'd know from the video what your boost is doing.

I can absolutely figure something out to get that recorded for you!

 

[Stapl3]

It has the stock FPR and there is no wideband on the car.

Got it. I had to relook at this log and pick it apart differently.

At idle the ECU is pulling 14.5% of fuel and hovers at 45hz. But, on MafComp, the 0hz slider is at +11.7 and 50hz is at +20.3. Why?
At cruise the ECU is pulling 11.4% fuel and averages at 103hz. But, on MafComp, the 100hz slider is at +14.1 and fades to a continual 11.2%. Why?

The oldschool goal was to get CombinedFT to hover around zero, yet these ECU settings has it fighting itself almost exactly eye for an eye. And it's of no benefit as the ECU leans so hard on the airflow settings being accurate. It's like losing 20lbs so you can wear 10lb shoes.

 

[Busdownthotiana]

Just couch surfing, reading this cook up rn. Im realizing v3 lite doesnt have all these fancy cool parameters. Idk if I even need all these parameters? I was looking for MAF clamp and was thinking.. Maybe hes saying it wrong? Thats interesting the benefits of the full. IDK how much the upgrade costs but thats cool to see! I've been trying to solve a no start... Im right there before I get to start dialing in idle!!

 

[OhhShmit]

Just couch surfing, reading this cook up rn. Im realizing v3 lite doesnt have all these fancy cool parameters. Idk if I even need all these parameters? I was looking for MAF clamp and was thinking.. Maybe hes saying it wrong? Thats interesting the benefits of the full. IDK how much the upgrade costs but thats cool to see! I've been trying to solve a no start... Im right there before I get to start dialing in idle!!

View attachment 777256

$125 brotha and it was very simple and fast!

 

[OhhShmit]

Got it. I had to relook at this log and pick it apart differently.

At idle the ECU is pulling 14.5% of fuel and hovers at 45hz. But, on MafComp, the 0hz slider is at +11.7 and 50hz is at +20.3. Why?
At cruise the ECU is pulling 11.4% fuel and averages at 103hz. But, on MafComp, the 100hz slider is at +14.1 and fades to a continual 11.2%. Why?

The oldschool goal was to get CombinedFT to hover around zero, yet these ECU settings has it fighting itself almost exactly eye for an eye. And it's of no benefit as the ECU leans so hard on the airflow settings being accurate. It's like losing 20lbs so you can wear 10lb shoes.

Man I feel stupid but I so badly want to understand this , I’m new to all this boss and just like to soak in as much knowledge and information from you guys as I can! I am the very last for miscommunication

 

[We're on Boost]

At idle the ECU is pulling 14.5% of fuel and hovers at 45hz. But, on MafComp, the 0hz slider is at +11.7 and 50hz is at +20.3. Why?
At cruise the ECU is pulling 11.4% fuel and averages at 103hz. But, on MafComp, the 100hz slider is at +14.1 and fades to a continual 11.2%. Why?

Late last year when I realized that the MAF had some mild hacks, we started using the Hacked 1g Template in MAF Comp. Ran with that for a while.

Then started using MAF Comp Adjust (Combined Fuel Trim) when there was some good long closed loop running to use it on. That jumpy looking number at 50 Hz came from that, as well as the other settings up to about 400 Hz. Then, since 500 Hz is about where open loop starts, we just ran the 400 Hz number all the way out to the right constant.

I tried also to make Global fuel a positive number, or to put an injector smaller than 450cc in the calculator, but it won’t use it. So we stuck with the MAF Comp. Now with big injectors we can go either way with Global fuel, so that’s great. And we started right out with the 1000cc injectors entered as only 900cc, so we’ve already done some of that.

Now, with the log we got just this morning, when I run MAF Comp Adj on it, it suggests going back to about the 0 line, and no suggestions above 400 Hz of course. So I think I'd be in favor of having MAF Comp set simply to what ECM gives you with the Hacked 1g Template, which gives you those low numbers like 2 and 3 percent for most of it.


About the hacked MAF, take a look at post 181, here.
This is the MAF that’s in the car. It has had 2 things removed:

The honeycomb that was in front of the oval channel.

And the Silencer thing that is like a big Christmas tree star ornament, which would go across the whole backend of it in a stock MAF.


The rectangular channel that (I think) has the microphone in it still has the original honeycomb in front of it. The only hack to that channel is the removal of the Silencer. So I figure that channel will flow some more air than stock, but that increased airflow will still be measured because that’s the channel that has the microphone. So we don’t need MAF Comp for that.

But the other channel, the oval one, is hacked both by removal of its honeycomb, and by removal of the Silencer. So it’s going to have its flow increased by quite a bit, and the microphone won’t know much about it because it’s in the other channel. So the actual airflow is greater than what you’d get just by calculating from the Hz seen by the microphone.

That’s why I think that some MAF Comp is correct. I just don’t know how much. Maybe we should just use the Hacked 1g Template numbers. I don't know what hacks exactly ECMtuning was figuring or measuring when they made that template. I'd like to know.

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay Gary here is the morning Log with a couple pulls and 2 WOT pulls towards the end, All pulls its still breaking up, I'm assuming its wanting more fuel and i should also should specify that even at idle it feels like its breaking up a little bit. and all of this was after the install of the injectors and fuel pump.

 

[Justin DuBois]

TPS isn't reaching 100% - 4.24v WOT
I don't see Wide Band data in the log - I don't see MAP data

 

[OhhShmit]

TPS isn't reaching 100% - 4.24v WOT
I don't see Wide Band data in the log - I don't see MAP data

I did notice, I had the gas pressed all the way but the log said 83% which is interesting

 

[We're on Boost]

I don't see Wide Band data in the log - I don't see MAP data

Justin, he doesn't have a wideband, and the MAP that is in the car only goes to the gauge, it was never run to the ecu.

I did notice, I had the gas pressed all the way but the log said 83% which is interesting

Right, with a right click on a live log screen, you can run the thing called TPS Adjust.
It gives you suggested values for the TPS offset and scaling.
Right click gives you this ( you pick TPS Adjust):


Then pick "Continue"
Then you'll see the suggested values like this :


Then you pick "Save to ECU"

 

[OhhShmit]

Justin, he doesn't have a wideband, and the MAP that is in the car only goes to the gauge, it was never run to the ecu.


Right, with a right click on a live log screen, you can run the thing called TPS Adjust.
It gives you suggested values for the TPS offset and scaling.
Right click gives you this ( you pick TPS Adjust):
View attachment 777286

Then pick "Continue"
Then you'll see the suggested values like this :
View attachment 777287

Then you pick "Save to ECU"

Okay and to clarify it has to be a live log car running?