My old highschool car

[awdtsi_90]

This is the Build Thread for My old highschool car. Reply below.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Finally got the O2 housing bolted up with a new O2 sensor in it.

Put 4 gallons of gas in and switched out the battery. Car fired up but is running very rough. It sounded like it was running on a few cylinders when I gave it gas it sounded like it was bogging, but did die after about 20 seconds of running with throttle input, so I don't think that's the case?

Check engine light comes on after a couple of seconds of running.

The oil pressure went up to 80 on start up and I am unsure if it would of went down as it died before it ran for 30 seconds, so I never found out . The car does have balance shaft delete.

The car did sit for 10 years and has DSMLink v3 so I am unsure if the tune got lost when I switched put batteries or from it sitting for 10 years. It never might of been tuned to behin with on DSMLink. I tried to download the ECMTuning software but for some reason my laptop won't download it. I was able to install the windows driver but it won't download the 32 bit. I will try the 64 bit today but not able to download it so far.

Here is a video of it running for a few seconds.



I am assuming what I hear is lifter tick as it has sit for so long. I did put foaming oil in it and turned it over by hand for a few times & let it sit for a few days to cover the cylinder walls. I started it and it smoked from the broken O2 housing. That is why switched out housing and sensor which now it doesn't smoke at all but I am unsure if it's a tuning issue as once the car died it wouldn't start again or flooded with fuel from misfire or another issue.

It turns over so IDK what it is? A misfire wouldn't die like that would it? Maybe a fuel filter or I think a tune related issue with the car sitting for 10 years it lost the tune when battery died? If I had money I would get a ignition coil pack to rule that out but It does have new spark plugs in it tho. I will check and see if it's getting spark in each cylinder to help rule out ignition coil pack.

 

[awdtsi_90]

I am stopping and getting a ignition tester omw home today to test spark.

 

[saturn345]

Might wanna look at your injectors if they been sitting the whole time.
They made need to be cleaned or replaced then.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Thank you for that. I will get those cleaned. I do have a spare set of stock Injectors I got from were on boost I could get cleaned and swap those out.

I also have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and FIC 1,000 injectors new sitting in garage. I would have to get a FPR to run those and I can't get the hatch open. It is stuck and won't open for the life of me.

Any advice on how to open the hatch anyone?

 

[99gstgofast]

Thank you for that. I will get those cleaned. I do have a spare set of stock Injectors I got from were on boost I could get cleaned and swap those out.

I also have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and FIC 1,000 injectors new sitting in garage. I would have to get a FPR to run those and I can't get the hatch open. It is stuck and won't open for the life of me.

Any advice on how to open the hatch anyone?

Check your hatch latch. The plastic retainer in the latch might be broke not allowing it to have the tension to let the latch release.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Been super busy and haven't had time to do anything unfortunately. Today I am stopping and getting a 14mm flare nut wrench to get the bottom nut off the fuel filter and turn the key on to push any bad gas out through the lines before I install the new filter.

I will test for misfire with the ignition tester I got and hopefully with new fuel filter & getting the old fuel out of lines will allow car to run with no rough idle and run good so I can move on to other things and get the car closer to driving daily!

How do I check the plastic retainer in the hatch latch? Is that the plastic piece next to door that gets pulled to release it? If so could I get pliers and pull ok the cable itself? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I am learning as I go .

I will keep it posted and hope to bring good news back!!!!

 

[awdtsi_90]

Got the new fuel filter installed & Got the old gas out of lines. Did the ignition spark test and the 2 center cylinders are not firing which I believe are 2&3.

Also noticed the o2 sensor plug in was f***ed up and 1 wire is not even in there and the other 3 are barley.

Got ECM link installed on the laptop but not plugged Into computer yet.

I did find 2 vacuum hoses not plugged Into anything so maybe those went to thr egr valve ontop of throttle body that's tied off. If that's the case I will loop the other 2 lines together.

 

[awdtsi_90]

This is what I am going to get to resolve the o2 sensor pigtail issue. It is from ohm-racing

 

[awdtsi_90]

Switched out the wires for cylinders 2 & 3. Now they are all firing. Check engine light is still on and I got DSMLink connected to my laptop. I don't know anything about it or how to even navigate it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated with DSMLink.

I still have to get the O2 sensor fixed with the wire pulled out of the plug. Here is a video of it running with a live view of DSMLink. The video has a rattle from inside the car.

 

[awdtsi_90]

The o2 sensor plug is ordered and I am hoping once that gets here and installed the car will run good!

 

[We're on Boost]

Here is a video of it running with a live view of dsmlink.

Hello again!
In your video I see that coolant temp is reading wrong (about -50 F) so either your coolant temp sensor is bad or the wiring or connector to it is bad. The wires that stick out going forward from the connector are right out there where they get smushed a lot and they usually wind up all bent over and breaking off. So that's one possibility.

Or the sensor itself which is a cheap item from Rock Auto, like the NTK EF0099 or the Standard Motor TX32, for about 10 or 11 bucks (this is the 2-wire sensor that goes to the ECU not the gauge, so it's pretty important).

We might have talked about that connector already once before, but usually there is a little sort of a button on it that you push to unlock it from the male blades on the sensor. If you don't do that and just pull real hard to take it off, it will probably break the plastic connector body.

 

[awdtsi_90]

In the video at 10 seconds it shows timing at 30 degrees. is that normal?

Those are the 2 wires you are talking about correct? I will get a sensor ordered. Thank you

 

[dwb]

Those are the 2 wires you are talking about correct? I will get a sensor ordered. Thank you

View attachment 738767

It's lower on the t-stat housing. That one you pictured is for your AC. You want #5 in this diagram:

 

[19Eclipse90]

To clarify:
1) the OP’s picture does show the sensor monitoring temps for the ECU.
2) it is not in the factory location (in the grand scheme of things, not really an issue).
3) the wires connected to it are for the A/C switch that should be in that location so it’s not being utilized properly.

The wire colors for the ECU’s sensor should be green with black stripe and yellow with green stripe. Wouldn’t surprise me to see another of these sensors lower in the housing and this one being used as nothing more than a plug for that port in the upper housing.

What are all the codes the ECU is reporting? I’d expect to see O2 sensor and Engine Coolant Temp sensor; is that it? To find these in Link, see: DSMLink DTCs.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Now 2 wires are out of the O2 plug . I do have one ordered and got it running decent.

It did idle surge at the beginning but it sorted itself out and now it idles fine on start up.

I still don't understand the timing so high, is that correct or normal?

There are 2 videos. The first one was with it idles surging and the 2nd one is of it not surging

 

[We're on Boost]

In the video at 10 seconds it shows timing at 30 degrees. is that normal?

I don't think so, no, because there you are just idling at about 900 rpm and it is not immediately after a throttle blip.
My car has always been in the 10 to 15 degrees range there (steady idle no throttle blips, 900 to 1000 rpm) even when my car was stock and I hadn't fiddled with timing or anything much, I just had a logger on it.

Tell you what, look at your timing maps that you see in View, ECU Direct Access from log, TimingMaxOct.
Look at the table in the 1000 rpm column and in the row for your Load Factor at the time. You would have to be logging and displaying Load Factor in your logs to know your load factor. Your load factor at idle would be a low number, let's say 0.5 maybe.
So in your ignition advance table, follow the row that has your load factor over to the column that has 1000 rpm and see what the number is in that cell. It's probably something like 15 degrees. But it's probably not 30 until you get farther to the right on the chart, maybe at 1750 rpm you'll see 30 degrees at that low load factor.

So if you are seeing a number in your actual log that disagrees with what the table says it should be, there is something going on.
One thing I can think of is that when you are idling (Idle Sw = 1) (that's another item you should display in your logs) the ecu uses the ISC and the ignition timing to try to meet your target idle. If your timing at idle is way higher than it's supposed to be, that could indicate that the ecu is raising timing trying to keep your engine speed up to the target.
ISC Position is another item you should display in your logs. The ISC is an item to keep an eye on because they all go bad sooner or later.

In your "idle not surging" video I see 20 degrees timing at about 1150 rpm idle. That's about right, close, and it sounds good. I'd still check it out to see if it agrees with your TimingMaxOct number for that cell, just to see. You have to mentally do a rough interpolation between the numbers for rpm and load factor on the chart. The ECU will do an accurate interpolation. Look at TimingMinOct too.

What is your Target Idle speed set to?

If you are blipping the throttle while idling, then it is normal for the timing to go way high on the "overrun", right after you take your foot off the gas pedal, and then it should settle back down to normal as the revs return to idle speed.

 

[awdtsi_90]

I do not know where anything is set. I adjusted the fuel injector size to stock 450 and did the fuel calculation on dsmlink, outside of that I havnt adjusted anything and trying to learn dsm link as I finally got it running. Still need to do the input shaft bearing & brake master. When I get home I will load it up and see where it's at on link. Could the o2 sensor only having 2 wires attached ontop of thr coolant sensor cause the timing to be so high?

 

[We're on Boost]

Could the o2 sensor only having 2 wires attached ontop of thr coolant sensor cause the timing to be so high?

I really don't know. But it's not good! So I think, get those 4 wires going to the O2 sensor like they should and let's see what we have then. Hopefully that connector with pig tails that you ordered from Ohm Racing will fit and work right. I still have never replaced that connector on my car and it's getting pretty ugly looking. But it still works.

My usual source for electrical connectors is Sheridan Engineering (Brad Sheridan, or, "brads" in DSMtuners). The last I heard (April of 2022) from him about this connector for the 1g O2 sensor is that he had the metal terminals that go on the ends of the wires, but not the plastic connector body. He also mentioned that there are plastic connector bodies out there that apparently are not temperature rated high enough and they may melt in this application. So keep an eye on yours that you get from Ohm!

As usual, keep an eye on just about everything.

Oh, your Target Idle is in View, ECU config (from log), and it's right there at the top of the page.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

My "go to guy" also!

 

[awdtsi_90]

This is what the TmngMaxOCT is currently at when I opend it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I really don't know. But it's not good! So I think, get those 4 wires going to the O2 sensor like they should and let's see what we have then. Hopefully that connector with pig tails that you ordered from Ohm Racing will fit and work right. I still have never replaced that connector on my car and it's getting pretty ugly looking. But it still works.
My usual source for electrical connectors is Sheridan Engineering (Brad Sheridan, or, "brads" in DSMtuners). The last I heard (April of 2022) from him about this connector for the 1g O2 sensor is that he had the metal terminals that go on the ends of the wires, but not the plastic connector body. He also mentioned that there are plastic connector bodies out there that apparently are not temperature rated high enough and they may melt in this application. So keep an eye on yours that you get from Ohm! As usual, keep an eye on just about everything.

I’ll leave this here: 1G Oxygen ( O2 ) Sensor Connector from OHM-Racing.

Hopefully, after all these years, they are providing the right connector. Don’t throw away the old connector, that’s all I’ll say. It can be reused and save you $30 in the future.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Here is the setting on it as i got it. I am pretty sure I need to bring the afr on the open loop down to where they are green ? I thought 10 afr was very rich. pretty much keep it all from 10.7 to 12.1. Sorry of this sounds retarded. I am learning to be a mechanic and all this timing & tuning & wiring . or splicing wires with the new o2 plug in . but that's electric work to me.

Th3 speed density weighting pic. Dose that mean this car has speed density and I need to select that for my MAF. it has a gm 3 inch maf and I have stock selected because it dosnt have it as a option.

here us the o2 feedback

 

[awdtsi_90]

I also looped the 2 vacuum lines that were hanging together. Idk if that's OK but they were hanging and then I found what turned out to be a vacume solenoid just dangling with no line hooked up so gotta do some looking into that. Maybe that's where the vaccume line goes to. I got the Manuel for it just very limited time to read or even work on car

 

[awdtsi_90]

19Eclipse90 Thank you for that link. I will just plan on using the oem one after it gets fixed and just use the one from ohm as a temporary use with my eyes on it after each drive