My old highschool car

[We're on Boost]

Okay Gary here is the morning Log with a couple pulls and 2 WOT pulls towards the end, All pulls its still breaking up, I'm assuming its wanting more fuel and i should also should specify that even at idle it feels like its breaking up a little bit. and all of this was after the install of the injectors and fuel pump.

Well bummer. But it's not surprising that turning off antilag didn't fix it because I don't think antilag was activating in the first place.

Okay and to clarify it has to be a live log car running?

Car not running.
Here's how they say it in the wiki:

"To use this function, just grab a log with throttle position data (TPSVolts or ThrotPos) ranging from fully closed (foot completely off the throttle) to fully open (foot to the floor). The engine does not have to be running to capture this data.

Once you have a log with this data, simply right click in the log (graph screen) and select “TPS Adjust”. You'll be presented with a tab showing the suggested new values for TPS adjustment. Review this data to make sure it seems reasonable before you hit Save to ECU…"



Your current log has foot to the floor and foot completely off the pedal. That's what you need in the log to get the right answer. You could be connected, start a live log with foot off the gas, then put foot to the floor, then come off and go back full on a few times just to make sure it gets enough data to look at. Then run TPS Adjust.

You should end up with numbers the same or very close to what I showed in the second shot in post #549.

 

[OhhShmit]

Well bummer. But it's not surprising that turning off antilag didn't fix it because I don't think antilag was activating in the first place.


Car not running.
Here's how they say it in the wiki:

"To use this function, just grab a log with throttle position data (TPSVolts or ThrotPos) ranging from fully closed (foot completely off the throttle) to fully open (foot to the floor). The engine does not have to be running to capture this data.

Once you have a log with this data, simply right click in the log (graph screen) and select “TPS Adjust”. You'll be presented with a tab showing the suggested new values for TPS adjustment. Review this data to make sure it seems reasonable before you hit Save to ECU…"



Your current log has foot to the floor and foot completely off the pedal. That's what you need in the log to get the right answer. You could be connected, start a live log with foot off the gas, then put foot to the floor, then come off and go back full on a few times just to make sure it gets enough data to look at. Then run TPS Adjust.

You should end up with numbers the same or very close to what I showed in the second shot in post #549.

This is what it came up with

 

[We're on Boost]

This is what it came up with

No, those are the numbers that were already in there.

When I run it in your log, I get -7 and 124, just like it shows in the second shot in post #549.
Tell you what, you can put those numbers in manually and then save them to the ECU. Put them in and then Save to ECU. You don't have to use the calculator. Although it would be good to get the hang of it

When you are done, run a short check log just with Key On to make sure the changes are really there.

 

[OhhShmit]

No, those are the numbers that were already in there.

When I run it in your log, I get -7 and 124, just like it shows in the second shot in post #549.
Tell you what, you can put those numbers in manually and then save them to the ECU. Put them in and then Save to ECU. You don't have to use the calculator. Although it would be good to get the hang of it

Okay will do right now !

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay just saved it!

 

[OhhShmit]

Now my question would be what do we do about the break up it feels like at idle and during the pulls?

 

[We're on Boost]

Now my question would be what do we do about the break up it feels like at idle and during the pulls?

Well I really don't know, but probably for a next try, we should change the MAF Comp to be just exactly the same as the 1g Hacked MAF template. That will make it leaner actually, but maybe it will help. The closed loop fuel trims are big negative numbers which means that the underlying fuel settings are rich. At least in the closed loop regions they are rich.

To do that, go the the MAF Comp page.

Where it says “Display template” pick “Hacked 1g”

That should put a bunch of white blobs onto the map, exactly like in this shot:



Then pick “Use template”

That should move all the yellow blobs down so they are right on top of where the white blobs were. Just like in this screen shot. Then pick “Copy to ECU”.
If it gives you some wonky answer, don’t copy it to ecu. X out the page and bring the page up fresh. It should look exactly like this when you are done. You can even compare the numbers in the vertical chart. They should be the same:


This should make a difference in the way the car runs but it might still not be the droid you are looking for. But do the change, and then you could log another drive with some WOT pulls like the last log.

You know, if we have video of the boost gauge, we will also have sound. Yeah! Hearing the engine when it is misbehaving could really help with figuring it out.


Another thing to do, there's a loggable parameter you could add called FuelPmpRly.
Look for that in Captured Values and turn it on so we can see it in the logs.
Maybe if this relay is cutting out at times, it could be the problem.

 

[We're on Boost]

Have you changed the fuel filter since you've had the car? I mean, it's only been a few days but
If there is some kind of plugging going on in the fuel system, it could be the fuel filter, or the injectors. Take a look at post #310.
Read down the next few posts, he says that one was only on there for about a month.

I was never very clear on the history of the PTE 1000cc injectors that you have. I don't know if Nick bought them new from a legit dealer, or used, or what.

 

[OhhShmit]

Have you changed the fuel filter since you've had the car? I mean, it's only been a few days but
If there is some kind of plugging going on in the fuel system, it could be the fuel filter, or the injectors. Take a look at post #310.
Read down the next few posts, he says that one was only on there for about a month.

I was never very clear on the history of the PTE 1000cc injectors that you have. I don't know if Nick bought them new from a legit dealer, or used, or what.

Yes we changed the filter also and man did it need it! And the Precision 1000cc were new never used from my understanding and looking at them they still had the plastic on them.

 

[OhhShmit]

Well I really don't know, but probably for a next try, we should change the MAF Comp to be just exactly the same as the 1g Hacked MAF template. That will make it leaner actually, but maybe it will help. The closed loop fuel trims are big negative numbers which means that the underlying fuel settings are rich. At least in the closed loop regions they are rich.

To do that, go the the MAF Comp page.

Where it says “Display template” pick “Hacked 1g”

That should put a bunch of white blobs onto the map, exactly like in this shot:
View attachment 777289


Then pick “Use template”

That should move all the yellow blobs down so they are right on top of where the white blobs were. Just like in this screen shot. Then pick “Copy to ECU”.
If it gives you some wonky answer, don’t copy it to ecu. X out the page and bring the page up fresh. It should look exactly like this when you are done. You can even compare the numbers in the vertical chart. They should be the same:
View attachment 777290

This should make a difference in the way the car runs but it might still not be the droid you are looking for. But do the change, and then you could log another drive with some WOT pulls like the last log.

You know, if we have video of the boost gauge, we will also have sound. Yeah! Hearing the engine when it is misbehaving could really help with figuring it out.


Another thing to do, there's a loggable parameter you could add called FuelPmpRly.
Look for that in Captured Values and turn it on so we can see it in the logs.
Maybe if this relay is cutting out at times, it could be the problem.

Okay just completed this and saved to ECU! I’ll go out now and make a log real fast

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay Gary Here is a log of the WOT pulls not once did it break up all the way to 5k YAY!! But I'm also posting 2 video's with this, The one where I take you to the back of the car you can hear the break up I'm talking about at idle and when coming to a stop. Do not freak out at the beginning of that video you hear the car vibrating its nothing motor related ! The second video goes along with the first pull in the log to show you boost gauge. i was only able to get those to as its hard to record and drive .

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay Gary Here is a log of the WOT pulls not once did it break up all the way to 5k YAY!! But I'm also posting 2 video's with this, The one where I take you to the back of the car you can hear the break up I'm talking about at idle and when coming to a stop. Do not freak out at the beginning of that video you hear the car vibrating its nothing motor related ! The second video goes along with the first pull in the log to show you boost gauge. i was only able to get those to as its hard to record and drive .

 

[OhhShmit]

 

[OhhShmit]

well after looking at the log it looks like the rpm are still climbing then jumping down and climbing during those pulls but I couldn't feel any break ups like I was before so I'm not sure.

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay Gary Here is a log of the WOT pulls not once did it break up all the way to 5k YAY!! But I'm also posting 2 video's with this, The one where I take you to the back of the car you can hear the break up I'm talking about at idle and when coming to a stop

Awesome!

Did you have any WOT in there? I don't see any. Most I see is 82%.

FuelPmpRly looks good, it's 1 all the way through until after you shut off at the end of the log. So that's apparently working ok.


Before I forget, I noticed going back through your logs that all of a sudden, starting with the 1st drive with the 1000cc's, your idle switch (IdleSw) is not working. It's always 0. It was working before.
So this would effect your idle.
Since your TPS is scaled correctly now (I think) you can "fix" that easily.
Just check the box for "Simulate idle switch from TPS" and Save to ECU.

That will take care of it and you should notice a difference. Because the ecu doesn't know you are intending to idle unless that switch is working.

What's really happening though is that the idle switch pin is not working (IdleSwPin).
When you are simulating this thing, you should occasionally check a parameter called RawThrotPos. Displaying a raw value is a few steps, we can go through that sometime.
But the thing to check occasionally is to make sure RawThrotPos is 34 or less whenever your foot is completely off the gas. Yours is 34 now in this latest log, so it will work.
Even though your ThrotPos is 1% with foot off, the Raw is 34 so that will give you the simulated idle switch.

 

[We're on Boost]

well after looking at the log it looks like the rpm are still climbing then jumping down and climbing during those pulls but I couldn't feel any break ups like I was before so I'm not sure.

Yeah it sounds smooth in the video.
In the log, your rpm trace gets a little jaggy when you get above about 4200 rpm in a pull. The rest of the time it looks pretty smooth.
Mine looks all the time like yours does below 4200rpm. The only time it's a little up and down is when accelerating on a bumpy road.
So I don't know what to think about that. Maybe the CAS is not liking old age.
If it feels smooth during a pull, that's the main thing.

The idle is a little rough but let's see how it is after you start simulating the idle switch.

There's room in the Combined Fuel Trim numbers to make it a little leaner. We'd do that with the Global Fuel setting. Leave the MAF as is. You could run the calculator on the Fuel Page with 940cc for injector size, instead of 900. 940cc is what ECMtuning says is the "actual" for the PTE 1000cc. So that would change it just a little and that's all we'd want probably.

How have the cold starts been now? Are you using any of the work-arounds for CrankingFuelAdjust?

 

[OhhShmit]

Yeah it sounds smooth in the video.
In the log, your rpm trace gets a little jaggy when you get above about 4200 rpm in a pull. The rest of the time it looks pretty smooth.
Mine looks all the time like yours does below 4200rpm. The only time it's a little up and down is when accelerating on a bumpy road.
So I don't know what to think about that. Maybe the CAS is not liking old age.
If it feels smooth during a pull, that's the main thing.

The idle is a little rough but let's see how it is after you start simulating the idle switch.

There's room in the Combined Fuel Trim numbers to make it a little leaner. We'd do that with the Global Fuel setting. Leave the MAF as is. You could run the calculator on the Fuel Page with 940cc for injector size, instead of 900. 940cc is what ECMtuning says is the "actual" for the PTE 1000cc. So that would change it just a little and that's all we'd want probably.

How have the cold starts been now? Are you using any of the work-arounds for CrankingFuelAdjust?

To be fair I kinda found a work around for the starting in the morning, As soon as we get it started instead of letting it die we just give it some gas and boom she’s idling good without it dying. I know once it gets colder I will for sure have to use the CrankingFuelAdjust.

 

[OhhShmit]

Did you have any WOT in there? I don't see any. Most I see is 82%.

Which I find interesting because I was full throttle, but yesterday when I did the log to adjust it and pressed the gas and let off it was reading 100% but during those pulls their ya only 82% so I’m a little confused there unless I’m just not all the way on the gas with my foot. Either way I’ll make these adjustments this morning before work and make another log with the changes!

 

[OhhShmit]

Gary, Here is the log from this morning I was able to get a couple 100% WOT pulls towards the end YAY!!! I guess I just was not pressing the gas all the way like I had thought. Not once did it cut out in any of those pulls and when coming to a stop it was smooth on the idle until stop. And that is the only issue still is at idle, it seems to be bouncy as you see in the log and still feels like its cutting essentially. I'm not sure how to explain it , I guess the best example would be the video I posted yesterday from behind the car. That cutting in and out.

 

[We're on Boost]

Gary, Here is the log from this morning I was able to get a couple 100% WOT pulls towards the end YAY!!! I guess I just was not pressing the gas all the way like I had thought. Not once did it cut out in any of those pulls and when coming to a stop it was smooth on the idle until stop. And that is the only issue still is at idle, it seems to be bouncy as you see in the log and still feels like its cutting essentially. I'm not sure how to explain it , I guess the best example would be the video I posted yesterday from behind the car. That cutting in and out.

100% Throttle Position Yay.
Simulated idle switch is working, good.

Regarding the jaggy rpm curves, the MAF curve is smooth, InjOn curve is smooth, Airflow curve is smooth. Timing is smooth enough, it just comes down more than we’d like above about 4300 rpm, so that we can work on.
In the March 21 2025 log with freshly cleaned injectors there was a lot of knock at high loads with the Timing going to 14 degrees.
Now the car might be ok with 14 degrees, but I think I’ll work up something that will take it only to 12 degrees to start with.

Now all of a sudden the boost is coming up slow and not ever getting as high as it should.
Your video of the boost gauge is really helpful. In the video, the boost gauge went to about 11 or 12 psi. In the log at the same point, Boost Est went to 9psi. So maybe we can guess that actual boost is going to be a few psi more than what we see in Boost Est.

Earlier this year, Nick said he was seeing as much as 20 psi of boost on the gauge.
Yeah, just using the Search for key word “boost” I see that we were talking about the boost going higher than we wanted at the time, back in late March through May.

Then you mentioned it this year in post 353!
So I’m not sure what’s going on with that.
Maybe it’s because of the wrong way that the boost hose is connected (from wastegate to manifold).

You could probably test for that pretty easy. Just do a couple of pulls to 5000 or 5500 rpm where you are holding the throttle to about 60% all the way through. Not WOT. In the same drive also do a 100% WOT pull for reference. Then we could see if the boost actually comes up faster when you are at part thottle.

Another difference now though is the intercooler and intercooler piping. So if the boost hose connection isn’t what’s doing the slower boost rise, we should take a look at those things.

 

[OhhShmit]

100% Throttle Position Yay.
Simulated idle switch is working, good.

Regarding the jaggy rpm curves, the MAF curve is smooth, InjOn curve is smooth, Airflow curve is smooth. Timing is smooth enough, it just comes down more than we’d like above about 4300 rpm, so that we can work on.
In the March 21 2025 log with freshly cleaned injectors there was a lot of knock at high loads with the Timing going to 14 degrees.
Now the car might be ok with 14 degrees, but I think I’ll work up something that will take it only to 12 degrees to start with.

Now all of a sudden the boost is coming up slow and not ever getting as high as it should.
Your video of the boost gauge is really helpful. In the video, the boost gauge went to about 11 or 12 psi. In the log at the same point, Boost Est went to 9psi. So maybe we can guess that actual boost is going to be a few psi more than what we see in Boost Est.

Earlier this year, Nick said he was seeing as much as 20 psi of boost on the gauge.
Yeah, just using the Search for key word “boost” I see that we were talking about the boost going higher than we wanted at the time, back in late March through May.

Then you mentioned it this year in post 353!
So I’m not sure what’s going on with that.
Maybe it’s because of the wrong way that the boost hose is connected (from wastegate to manifold).

You could probably test for that pretty easy. Just do a couple of pulls to 5000 or 5500 rpm where you are holding the throttle to about 60% all the way through. Not WOT. In the same drive also do a 100% WOT pull for reference. Then we could see if the boost actually comes up faster when you are at part thottle.

Another difference now though is the intercooler and intercooler piping. So if the boost hose connection isn’t what’s doing the slower boost rise, we should take a look at those things.

So my question is, when the stock injectors and pump were in the very 2nd week of owning the car yes I had done a pull before knowing I would blow up the motor if I continued without changing a few things “ Which we have done” in that pull the boost went to the highest of 20 psi at Revlimit. Now keep in consideration before changing the Tac the one Nick had in the car only went to 20PSI which is why I changed it because who knows if it was anything more then 20Psi. Since the install of the fuel pump and injectors every pull that I have done so far granite I have only been going to I think the highest so far almost 6K are reaching the most I’ve seen is almost 20psi majority of the time it’s been about 15 or so PSI. So I guess my question would be since we changed the injectors and fuel pump could that have caused a more accurate reading now where before since we were maxing out already it was not?
And The intercooler and Hose are still stock, next week I have another appointment with my cousin to actually look at putting the FMIC on but I had to order a new set of piping because once again what came with Nick was not a full complete kit so I said screw it and ordered all new pipe.

 

[pauleyman]

So my question is, when the stock injectors and pump were in the very 2nd week of owning the car yes I had done a pull before knowing I would blow up the motor if I continued without changing a few things “ Which we have done” in that pull the boost went to the highest of 20 psi at Revlimit. Now keep in consideration before changing the Tac the one Nick had in the car only went to 20PSI which is why I changed it because who knows if it was anything more then 20Psi. Since the install of the fuel pump and injectors every pull that I have done so far granite I have only been going to I think the highest so far almost 6K are reaching the most I’ve seen is almost 20psi majority of the time it’s been about 15 or so PSI. So I guess my question would be since we changed the injectors and fuel pump could that have caused a more accurate reading now where before since we were maxing out already it was not?
And The intercooler and Hose are still stock, next week I have another appointment with my cousin to actually look at putting the FMIC on but I had to order a new set of piping because once again what came with Nick was not a full complete kit so I said screw it and ordered all new pipe.

Ive read this twice and have no idea what you're saying.

 

[OhhShmit]

Ive read this twice and have no idea what you're saying.

I’m sorry you can’t understand

 

[pauleyman]

I’m sorry you can’t understand

I'm asking you to reread and edit.

 

[OhhShmit]

I'm asking you to reread and edit.

I have and it’s makes sense, I’m not sure where your confused maybe elaborate more? I’m sure Gary will understand it as he has so far. Absolutely not trying to be a pain or seem like I’m coming off rude, Just as much as your confused I am also considering if anything I have to much context. I even towards the end specified my question.