My old highschool car

[OhhShmit]

Just wanted to point out...

Your TPS is a little off at 0.67... Should be at 0.63 at idle. I see you're using the offset in ECMLink... might need to adjust a little more to get it to 0.63.

Your throttle position never actually gets to 0%... it hangs at 1% at rest. Your throttle cable might be a hair too tight and letting a little bit of extra air in or maybe the stop point your throttle plate needs to be adjusted. Might be why your idle seems to be a couple hundred rpms higher than the 850 that it is set for

Awesome okay thank you the tip!!! And I noticed that this morning when letting it sit and idle it never went to 0 just steady 1 like you mentioned, I tried to pull the peddle back to see if that changed anything and it did not sadly

 

[OhhShmit]

Just wanted to point out...

Your TPS is a little off at 0.67... Should be at 0.63 at idle. I see you're using the offset in ECMLink... just need to adjust a little more to get it to 0.63.

Your throttle position never actually gets to 0%... it hangs at 1% at idle. Your throttle cable might be a hair too tight and letting a little bit of extra air in or maybe the stop screw for your throttle plate needs to be adjusted. Might be why your idle seems to be a couple hundred rpms higher than the 850 that it is set for.

Also could you elaborate on how I could adjust this I’m looking at ECMlink and not seeing it. I’m probably just stupid and overthinking it but I’m still new to this all to be fair Lol!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Awesome okay thank you the tip!!! And I noticed that this morning when letting it sit and idle it never went to 0 just steady 1 like you mentioned, I tried to pull the peddle back to see if that changed anything and it did not sadly

Check to see if you have a little bit of play in the throttle cable connected to the butterfly on the throttle body. You just might need to loosen the two 10mm bolts and slide the plate for the throttle cable just a hair towards the throttle body and then tighten it back down.

Also could you elaborate on how I could adjust this I’m looking at ECMlink and not seeing it. I’m probably just stupid and overthinking it but I’m still new to this all to be fair Lol!

Sure. Its in the first tab under RPM/TPS, at the bottom where it says TPS and Idle switch controls. IVe never used it myself as ive always just loosened the bolts and physically turned i til i got to 0.63. So i cant tell you exactly what to set it too, but im almost sure that you can move that -7 for the offset in one direction or the other and then record a log to see where your at what it is now set to. But hopefully someone else can chime in and be more specific.

 

[OhhShmit]

Check to see if you have a little bit of play in the throttle cable connected to the butterfly on the throttle body. You just might need to loosen the two 10mm bolts and slide the plate for the throttle cable just a hair towards the throttle body and then tighten it back down.


Sure. Its in the first tab under RPM/TPS, at the bottom where it says TPS and Idle switch controls. IVe never used it myself as ive always just loosened the bolts and physically turned i til i got to 0.63. So i cant tell you exactly what to set it too, but im almost sure that you can move that -7 for the offset in one direction or the other and then record a log to see where your at what it is now set to. But hopefully someone else can chime in and be more specific.
View attachment 777406

Okay thank you so much brotha for the info and explaining it to me! I’ll see what I can figure out between the cable or if not that then trying this route with ECMLink, Once again thank you so much boss!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Okay thank you so much brotha for the info and explaining it to me! I’ll see what I can figure out between the cable or if not that then trying this route with ECMLink, Once again thank you so much boss!

Heres the TPS adjustment according to ECMLink website.

v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

and here is he manual way.

dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay Gary here is a log from this morning I did a couple pulls not WOT then there is a few of WOT also towards the end also. The last couple minutes of the log are pure idle time like you asked for so i hope this helps!

Ok, in the idle at the end, your ISCPosition is at 0 for the whole idle time, 561 seconds to the end. So it's trying to slow it down to the target idle but can't do it because somewhere there is more air coming in than there should be. I think Sixbolt_16g is probably right that the throttle isn't closing as far as it should, because IdleSwPin is 0 everywhere in the log. It never goes to 1. That means that the little switch that is on the throttle stop never closes.

The normal way to fix it would be to do the adjustment there that can be done until IdleSwPin goes to 1 when your foot is off the gas.
If that isn't working out too good for some reason, you can just close the BISS screw some (clockwise) until the idle speed is near target and the ISCPosition is about 30 with the car warm. If you find that the car doesn't idle very well at 850, just raise the target idle to around 1000 rpm.

The Combined Fuel Trims in that idle section are so close to 0 that I wouldn't change any of the fuel settings that affect idle. Not yet anyway. Maybe when you get the car idling slower the trims will look different.

I'll look at the part throttle and WOT pulls later. Right now I gotta make a lamb burger and go put some winter gas in the Talon.

 

[OhhShmit]

I'll look at the part throttle and WOT pulls later. Right now I gotta make a lamb burger and go put some winter gas in the Talon.

I have never had Lamb but that sounds so amazing right now!!! And you’re totally fine! I’ll adjust that screw and do a live idle log and see if I can get it to 1 and not 0

 

[OhhShmit]

So I tried this morning doing the TPSAdjusment on ECMLink with a log like we did and it keeps showing the same numbers that are currently their so not sure what to do for that , I was about to go back out and try the BISS method and see if I can get the throttle to 0

 

[OhhShmit]

Check to see if you have a little bit of play in the throttle cable connected to the butterfly on the throttle body. You just might need to loosen the two 10mm bolts and slide the plate for the throttle cable just a hair towards the throttle body and then tighten it back down.

So I’m currently out here looking at the cable and it has a lot of slack it’s not tight at all, I’ll post a video for more clarification.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AfeZ1oz228

 

[SixBolt_16G]

So I’m currently out here looking at the cable and it has a lot of slack it’s not tight at all, I’ll post a video for more clarification.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AfeZ1oz228

Hmmm... if it were me, i would start a log with the car off, set the computer in the engine bay where i could see it and give the butterfly a light twist to close and see if it can actually go to 0 at any point. This would be unfamilar territory for me since a tight cable was my actual issue. Have you checked to see if its dirty or if you have any debris or carbon on the plate preventing it from fully closing? @We're on Boost or @1990TSIAWDTALON... any other ideas on what to check for to get to zero?

 

[We're on Boost]

Have you checked to see if its dirty or if you have any debris or carbon on the plate preventing it from fully closing?

Well, cleaning all the mechanical parts there is probably the "right" thing to do, and then looking at the electrical switch that is there, and looking at how you adjust the position of it, and trying to adjust it. Adjusting the switch position is probably in the vfaqs or in the FSM. I could take a look later.
The IdleSwPin did work at one time, because I'm looking at an old log right now and it goes to 1 like it should.

But you could also just do what you suggested when you said to manually change the number for TPS Offset (the number that is -7 now). Move it just the minimum one way or the other, whichever way gets ThrottlePos to 0. Then check RawThrotPos to make sure it is 34 or less. I like to have that Raw number be 33 or 32 so there's a little wiggle room there in case things move around a bit. Actually my Raw number right now is 31 and my ThrotPos is still 0.
Then you could just use the BISS to make the actual idle speed whatever you want and to get ISCposition to come out right.
Then you would have to keep an eye on it as time goes by, because if it drifts, that means that whatever is going on with it mechanically is getting worse and won't stay stable until it's cleaned up / fixed.

I think what OhhShmit did in post #608 was he tried running the automatic scaler again and it just gave him the same numbers that were already in there. So that's when you manually twiddle with the TPS offset until you get the 0 end good. Then you would check to see if you still get 100% at the other end and if you don't, you would manually twiddle the other number, the "TPS Scale" number.

 

[We're on Boost]

I'll look at the part throttle and WOT pulls later.

Ok, boost is slightly lower at part throttle just like it should be. That run had good checks on that at around 5400 rpm and lower. So it looks like having the wastegate hose going to the intake manifold isn’t making that much difference, even though its wrong.

But the boost is coming up slow, later than it should. Later than it used to. This slowness is kind of what you expect when things are configured for minimum boost. We thought we were on minimum boost configuration before. But it acted like it was on maximum boost, and we always wondered about that.

So, there’s a test we should do now. You should take the wastegate hose off of the wastegate and log 1 drive like that. When the wastegate hose is disconnected, that is maximum boost configuration. If you disconnect the wastegate hose and all of a sudden it is boosting strong and early like it was before, that’s good.

As for whether to plug the end of the hose or leave it open – it would be much better to plug it in some secure way where the plug can’t possibly get sucked up the hose and maybe into the engine during vacuum, or get blown out during boost. Should probably be something with a large enough head that it can’t get sucked in, and tied on with a zip tie or hose clamp so it doesn’t blow out.
With the hose end plugged, your BOV will still work.

If you don’t plug the hose end, I think the BOV will be a big boost leak.
It’s possible that the BOV is even a boost leak as it is already. I guess that’s why you were asking about putting an 18 pound spring in there. So that’s something to keep in mind.
Also if you don’t plug it, you would have a vacuum leak which would make the idle worse.
The boost gauge might still work. That depends on where the hose for it goes to.

You’ll have to be careful to back out of it if the boost goes really high.
When my car was close to stock, I had the wastegate hose blow off, and the boost went to 25 psi. It was set for 15psi at the time so that was a big surprise.

 

[OhhShmit]

Well, cleaning all the mechanical parts there is probably the "right" thing to do, and then looking at the electrical switch that is there, and looking at how you adjust the position of it, and trying to adjust it. Adjusting the switch position is probably in the vfaqs or in the FSM. I could take a look later.
The IdleSwPin did work at one time, because I'm looking at an old log right now and it goes to 1 like it should.

But you could also just do what you suggested when you said to manually change the number for TPS Offset (the number that is -7 now). Move it just the minimum one way or the other, whichever way gets ThrottlePos to 0. Then check RawThrotPos to make sure it is 34 or less. I like to have that Raw number be 33 or 32 so there's a little wiggle room there in case things move around a bit. Actually my Raw number right now is 31 and my ThrotPos is still 0.
Then you could just use the BISS to make the actual idle speed whatever you want and to get ISCposition to come out right.
Then you would have to keep an eye on it as time goes by, because if it drifts, that means that whatever is going on with it mechanically is getting worse and won't stay stable until it's cleaned up / fixed.

I think what OhhShmit did in post #608 was he tried running the automatic scaler again and it just gave him the same numbers that were already in there. So that's when you manually twiddle with the TPS offset until you get the 0 end good. Then you would check to see if you still get 100% at the other end and if you don't, you would manually twiddle the other number, the "TPS Scale" number

So I did noticed when I was looking at the throttle cable the plug that’s on top of the throttle body had been unplugged so I did plug it back in, And to clarify on the waste gate hose being unplugged and blocked, Only do 1 pull in the log or multiple?

 

[We're on Boost]

I emailed STM to ask them if they could get the actual Flow vs Pressure charts for the Walbro GSS278G3 and GSS250G3 fuel pumps (Walbro 190). The current charts, from TI Automotive. Because I wanted to clear up the confusion caused by the 2020 TI Automotive catalog where it lists those 2 pumps on page 88 in the column labeled "Max Sys Pressure 50 psi" and has a couple other mistakes in it.

They said "Sure, we can contact our rep and he can get them for us". And a couple hours later I had them in my inbox.
Here they are. It looks good, this performance is very similar to what they always have been. The charts are good, they show "G3" in the GSS number so we know this is for the "gray top" G3 pumps that they started making just a few years ago. Posting them as pdf's.

GSS278G3
and
GSS250G3

 

[We're on Boost]

So I did noticed when I was looking at the throttle cable the plug that’s on top of the throttle body had been unplugged so I did plug it back in,

Good, maybe that plug is all it needs to get IdleSwPin working again.

And to clarify on the waste gate hose being unplugged and blocked, Only do 1 pull in the log or multiple?

You could do a few pulls. Enough to get a solid feel whether it makes the boost more or not.

 

[OhhShmit]

I emailed STM to ask them if they could get the actual Flow vs Pressure charts for the Walbro GSS278G3 and GSS250G3 fuel pumps (Walbro 190). The current charts, from TI Automotive. Because I wanted to clear up the confusion caused by the 2020 TI Automotive catalog where it lists those 2 pumps on page 88 in the column labeled "Max Sys Pressure 50 psi" and has a couple other mistakes in it.

They said "Sure, we can contact our rep and he can get them for us". And a couple hours later I had them in my inbox.
Here they are. It looks good, this performance is very similar to what they always have been. The charts are good, they show "G3" in the GSS number so we know this is for the "gray top" G3 pumps that they started making just a few years ago. Posting them as pdf's.

GSS278G3

Okay perfect, I looked at both Pdf files on both pumps I wish I could say I know what I'm looking at . It is nice to have a current chart of both though.

 

[OhhShmit]

Good, maybe that plug is all it needs to get IdleSwPin working again.


You could do a few pulls. Enough to get a solid feel whether it makes the boost more or not.

I'm also hoping it fixed it also I guess we must have missed it getting everything put back together Lol! And sounds good I will try and get a log tonight if not tomorrow morning! And also to clarify I know this may seems like a stupid question but the hose to the wastegate is the one coming off the turbo correct?

 

[OhhShmit]

But the boost is coming up slow, later than it should. Later than it used to. This slowness is kind of what you expect when things are configured for minimum boost. We thought we were on minimum boost configuration before. But it acted like it was on maximum boost, and we always wondered about that.

And what’s crazy is I always thought because of the bigger turbo would explain why boost came in later

 

[We're on Boost]

the hose to the wastegate is the one coming off the turbo correct?

Yes, it's actually coming off that can that is the wastegate actuator:

 

[OhhShmit]

Yes, it's actually coming off that can that is the wastegate actuator:
View attachment 777476

Perfect!!! Thanks for the reference! I’m going out now to make those logs

 

[We're on Boost]

bigger turbo would explain why boost came in later

Well a bigger turbo does come in later. So that is true.

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay perfect, I looked at both Pdf files on both pumps I wish I could say I know what I'm looking at . It is nice to have a current chart of both though.

Yeah they should be up here somewhere anyway, because I've never seen these exact charts anywhere. Only the old stuff. I couldn't find these new ones anywhere.

 

[We're on Boost]

I'm also hoping it fixed it also I guess we must have missed it getting everything put back together Lol!

I don't know what to make of it yet, hopefully we can figure it out. But this happened just as I was waking up this morning - I thought, maybe what we have now is actually the real minimum boost and what we had before was closer to maximum boost because of some kind of leak somewhere that was never found. A "minimum boost" configuration that leaks would be like having a mystery boost controller on it. That's what a boost controller does. It leaks. But you control how much it leaks. The more it leaks, the higher your boost goes.

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay Gary here is the log from just now taking off that line and blocking it off, I tried to pay attention to the boost gauge at the very last 2 pulls and both times they almost hit 20psi if that helps any! I tried to be careful and mindful so sorry if I didn't get on it enough or to much .

 

[We're on Boost]

Okay Gary here is the log from just now taking off that line and blocking it off, I tried to pay attention to the boost gauge at the very last 2 pulls and both times they almost hit 20psi if that helps any! I tried to be careful and mindful so sorry if I didn't get on it enough or to much .

Well darn, that's a little worse if anything than the WOT pulls in the 2025.10.19-01 log.
Might as well put the hose back the way it was and we'll have to figure this out later.