My old highschool car

[We're on Boost]

Yeesh. Ok thanks you guys.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Dropped the car off today and was told he wouldn't waste the money on the slave & master cylinder for clutch because the hydroic system is doing whay they are suppose to. Not what I was wanting to hear because he thinks it's a weak clutch since it's engaging & disengaging. Will have the car back friday& will be driving it daily but Might be selling both the eclipse & talon tho with all the parts I have. Not sure about old cars anymore and need something newer for a daily driver . The eclipse has new timing belt, water pump ignition coil pack. It runs, just needs a new clutch now as it went out and was my daily driver. I am feeling like 6g for both of the cars is a decent and good price. What do u guys think tbh?

 

[awdtsi_90]

Having him still replace the master & slave cylinder ao we will see if it fixed it or wasted money on it.

 

[We're on Boost]

Will have the car back friday& will be driving it daily but Might be selling both the eclipse & talon tho with all the parts I have. Not sure about old cars anymore and need something newer for a daily driver . The eclipse has new timing belt, water pump ignition coil pack. It runs, just needs a new clutch now as it went out and was my daily driver. I am feeling like 6g for both of the cars is a decent and good price. What do u guys think tbh?

Oh bummer. But, family and practical considerations are more important. At a similar stage in life I scaled back on hobbies and bought (new) the 1990 Toyota Corolla that I still have. Have 320,000 miles on it now and it's an awesome car still.
As far as the selling price, I don't know, 6g for both is certainly not too high to ask. The value, at least by book, of these cars has gone up quite a bit just in the last 3 years or so. It's hard to say when the car condition is a mixed bag of plus and minus. But it seems to me your cars are not too bad. Just running counts for a lot.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Yea the talon runs & drives. When it comes back from the shop, it will be my daily driver and i won't want to sell it haha. As long as nothing else happens. In reality it sat for 10 years but has less then 5,000 miles on motor, turbo, suspension & clutch. I am hoping the new master cylinder helps get rid of the spongy pedal feel and makes it springy again. It has new tires on it with not even 1 mile on them hahaha.

The eclipse just needs a clutch. Which the body isn't the best st all but do have a front bumper for it. with a new clutch it runs & drives. which if I have both cars in spring, then I am attempting the clutch replacement on that myself in the garage .

In reality the talon should be a good driving car just with the syncro in 2nd bad. It will drive in 2nd just gotta hold it but every other gear is fine and holds by itself.

If everything goes good with the talon I probably won't get rid of, but wouldn't mind a suv for a daily.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Picked up the talon and wow. I.love this car . It has some issues that need worked on, which is from sitting. The motor & turbo are very strong and th4 total bill was $698.75.

Unfortunately it didn't help thr clu5ch pedal and I wasted about $280 I didn't have but I know now the clutch is weak or the guy before me.replaced thr tranny and didn't put thr parts I had on it. regardless it drives and runs good. Did have a check engine light on about 15 min into the drive so I am going to hook the computer up and see what the dtc codes are showing and get a drive log with dsm link. The only bad part about this car is the clutch & tranny. Other thrn that it's pretty good.

I will attemlt & try 2 clutches this spring if I don't sell the cars. If anyone here would be intrested in both cars lmk. I would not go any lower then 6g and is what i want for them both& all the parts i have. Which when time goes on and I slowly fix it it will go up or I may never get rid of it if I somehow can afford to get th4 trany rebuilt by Jack's transmission or if someone wants them as it's a package deal both cars. Talon obviously runs & drives and eclipse runs just needs a clutch.

 

[CrackedDSM]

It costs $140 to bleed someones brakes?


I'm in the wrong business. Bout to open up a mobile brake bleeding service and charge half that.

 

[awdtsi_90]

That was replace the master brake cylinder. I just realized I paid $20 for fluid . o well. I didn't have a choice on this matter. Just glad to have the car back and it running & driving.

It sucks someone here isn't local and could of helped or done it and made some money . If anyone on here is around wichita ks and wants to replace a clutch. LMK what you would charge

 

[CrackedDSM]

Sadly I’m not local, or having done it myself and having had someone help me for free, I’d bring all the tools necessary and do it at your place for free so long as you helped me. Maybe buy us a pizza to share. Once you’ve done it once or twice it gets way easier.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Sadly I’m not local, or having done it myself and having had someone help me for free, I’d bring all the tools necessary and do it at your place for free so long as you helped me. Maybe buy us a pizza to share. Once you’ve done it once or twice it gets way easier.

Thank you very much. I would love someone to help & teach me . To bad we live so damn far apart.

 

[awdtsi_90]

I am taking the talon to work tomorrow and going to start daily driving it. I am worried about the clutch pedal being so weak & potentially a weak clutch as the culprit. Other then that I am very excited and loving this car again. Got the speakers wired back up for music. Changed out the clusters and not one gas gauge worked. Because the rpm gauge dosnt work, i went ahead and put a 92-94 cluster in there. The orginal one in the car had my reverse glow gauges which dont really work anymore & is why i changed it. Really it's not a bad car minus the clutch issue tho.

Has a water leak everytime it rains it &seems like water is coming down the driver and passenger kick wells or the fire wall. I am assuming it's the cowl seal at the bottom of the windshield which is causing it or door seals. Going to put some silicone in there or a vacuumed line i slit the long ways. Idk if the vacuum line would work or not. I do have new door seals to put on I just need the clips that goes from the seal to the door.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Drove the car to work yesterday and it was pretty good! Definitely have to get new wipers . That was something I overlooked. Today i am stopping at autozone and getting a thermostat and a temperature sensor that sends it to the gauge in the cluster. If that still doesn't get me heat then i will be flushing out the heater core. Also when i start it to see if the thermostat and sensor fixed it, I will touch both hoses and see if they are the same temp. I am getting the OEM temp at 192 degrees thermostat.

Here is the part # for both

Duralast Gold Thermostat 15869DLG​

Duralast Engine Coolant Temperature Sender TU89​

 

[awdtsi_90]

Here is a video of the car driving and then one of it running while I am outside it opening the gate to work.

 

[awdtsi_90]

here is when I got to work and am outside of car

 

[awdtsi_90]

here are pics from my log onw home from work. What would be causing the knock? These are pics before and during and after.

 

[awdtsi_90]

here is the log. If anybody can take a look and help that would be awesome and appreciative. If i had the funds i would have someone tune it for me but i dont so that is not an option.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Are those stock injectors flowing that much? The car dosnt have a fpr & is on stock fuel pump unless dude put one in, so i am sure it is stock 450cc injectors also. I do have 1000cc injectors & a walbrol 255 fuel pump in the garage to be put on eventually tho.

 

[CrackedDSM]

You're not flowing 162 lb/min. That would be like 1300-1400awhp. Your battery voltage drops significantly, and your AFRest is like 9:1 at once point with only 9* of timing. I'd wonder what your wideband reads when this happens. I haven't looked at the log, but I'd bet your voltage is dropping below 12v at WOT and as a result you're going lean. But the ECU thinks it's rich and keeps pulling fuel.


Someone smarter than me and more prolific can look through the log but the voltage being 11v at some spots is worrisome.

 

[We're on Boost]

Are those stock injectors flowing that much? The car dosnt have a fpr & is on stock fuel pump unless dude put one in, so i am sure it is stock 450cc injectors also. I do have 1000cc injectors & a walbrol 255 fuel pump in the garage to be put on eventually tho.

I think stock injectors, yes.
Because I found a log from December 2008 when my car still had the stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock FPR, and stock ecu, and for maximum beauty it had literally the same MAF that you have on your Talon right now.

So here's a partial shot of my log with the cursor at a spot where the conditions are:
inj duty cycle = 85%
inj pulse width (On time) = 17.2 ms
MAF Hz = 1827 Hz (look at MAS In and MAS Out in the engine monitor)
RPM = 5932

Now look in your log at 179.669 seconds:
inj duty cycle = 85%
inj pulse width (On time) = 18.26 ms
MAF Hz = 1791 Hz
RPM = 5622

It's about as close to the same as you could get between 2 different cars.
Main difference is you got yours at about 300 rpm less than me. That's not much and it might even be because mine was in 1st gear and yours was in 2nd gear. In 1st gear it's harder for the turbo to keep up with the engine because revs are climbing so fast.

 

[awdtsi_90]

You're not flowing 162 lb/min. That would be like 1300-1400awhp. Your battery voltage drops significantly, and your AFRest is like 9:1 at once point with only 9* of timing. I'd wonder what your wideband reads when this happens. I haven't looked at the log, but I'd bet your voltage is dropping below 12v at WOT and as a result you're going lean. But the ECU thinks it's rich and keeps pulling fuel.


Someone smarter than me and more prolific can look through the log but the voltage being 11v at some spots is worrisome.

I don't have a wideband gauge for it. I thought the voltage was pretty low. The voltage should be at 14v while running I believe. Well hopefully thr voltage dip is causing into act weird and will be resolved with a new alternator. I can always use the alternator on the eclipse and see if thay changes it and puts my voltage up n toward 14v and eliminates the knock going above 5 degrees. I am learning all this stuff so tha k you guys for helping! I greatly appreciate it.

Were on boost- It is pretty cool it is the same MAF because you helped me out with getting the car running and driving with your maf and knowledge. With our cars being pretty close to the same in the logs, is that saying there isn't anything alarming causing the knock to retard timing? I know when voltage gets low it can do some weird things.
I havnt seen any dimming of the lights or anything like that. The alternator is 10 years old. Maybe clean up the battery terminals and put batter on charger and see if that helps at all as I am flushing out the heater core.

I get alot of thumbs up driving the talon and am having people flash back to their younger days. It is so nostalgic for me and awsome. Plus you never see them.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Today I flushed out the heater core and at first there was nothing flowing through and after some time brown shit started to come out and finally was flowing pretty good & clear. I checked the inside and didn't see it leaking all.

I did get the coolant temp sensor & thermostat replaced today also. So hopefully I will have heat . The old thermostat was stuck open as it was open when I pulled it out.

Here is a before & after of the battery terminals and I also cleaned with a polish pad on a dot co the battery cables and the battery post themselves. so everything is nice and conductive now. The battery has been on the charger and will put it back in the car tomorrow and go for a drive to see if that helped with the voltage issue.

The o2 clip I got is still holding.up good and not melting!!!

While I was there figured I would take a pic of my turbo as it's one that is a older one but still very low miles. It is a Bullseye 57 trim turbo.

I have this wire hanging by the alternator that I have no idea what or where it goes to.

 

[chrisman287]

I have this wire hanging by the alternator that I have no idea what or where it goes to.

Power steering pump

 

[We're on Boost]

I get alot of thumbs up driving the talon and am having people flash back to their younger days. It is so nostalgic for me and awsome. Plus you never see them.

I know, I love it.
A few weeks ago while I was waiting at a stop sign, a teen guy in the back seat of a car coming the other way hung out the window to yell at me "I love your car!"
I love it too when guys in a Porsche or some euro exotic car gawk at me like in a favorable way. Usually they are at least curious. I think the sound, the obviousness of it being highly modded, the rawness of it, usually those guys are into it and probably wish their cars were as raw.
Guys who come to my house to work on something like septic tank or whatever, often they will go nuts over the car just sitting there in the garage.

The old thermostat was stuck open as it was open when I pulled it out.

Ha! Good find.

Here is a before & after of the battery terminals and I also cleaned with a polish pad on a dot co the battery cables and the battery post themselves. so everything is nice and conductive now.

Those battery terms look horrible. Hopefully good ones will increase your voltage a little. Voltage in ECMlink is usually about half a volt lower than it is right on the battery. If you look at my specs and photos page, I have a pic there of my in-cabin voltmeter. I have that running on the cigarette lighter circuit which was easy to get at, and the voltage there is just like right on the battery (about half a volt higher than in ecmlink). Another beauty of it is the cig lighter circuit comes on with the key in ACC. So I can read the actual battery voltage just by turning the key to ACC with the car just sitting there not running.

I have this wire hanging by the alternator that I have no idea what or where it goes to.

That wire could be for the oil pressure idiot light. After they break off they usually are hanging around under the alternator somewhere. If it's up higher then I don't know what it is. Normally there is a wire going to a sensor on the front of the PS pump. Maybe it's that? You can get along without that one if your idle is a little higher than normal. That is what bumps up your idle speed a little whenever you turn the steering wheel.

 

[We're on Boost]

With our cars being pretty close to the same in the logs, is that saying there isn't anything alarming causing the knock to retard timing? I know when voltage gets low it can do some weird things.

Well the knock might be alarming. I haven't looked at that yet. All I looked at so far was just the things I thought would point to whether your injectors are stock size or bigger than stock. In my old setup that I had from 2008 to 2015, I sometimes had knock and sometimes didn't have knock. Mostly when I had knock was when I let the boost go over 15 psi. It might take me a while to look at those things. The usual suggestion is to reduce timing a little in the load vs rpm cells where the knock occurs, and in the cells just before. But we sort of need to know AFR and boost psi.

 

[awdtsi_90]

I don't have a a/f gauge and will take quite a while to get one. I will just stay very conservative on the pedal and boost untill I can manage to get one. I do have a triple gauge pod. New boost & oil pressure autometer ultra-lite 2 gauges ready for the a/f gauge. Hopefully by summer time I can get one!

Will look and get that wire clipped back on that is hanging down. Also will let everyone know if the heater in talon works & if the voltage went up at all wich I assume it will. Atleast hope