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Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

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You have all those fuel mods but no tuning device(s)? :confused:

You need an SAFC to control those injectors. You need an AFPR as you're running a 255lph fuel pump. You also need a datalogger to watch for knock... if you had a logger, you wouldn't even have to ask for help with how much boost you can run. Besides, even asking "experienced guys" won't help you very much as each car and each setup is a little bit different so there is no "right" amount of boost you can run.

Like I said, start by getting a logger and watch for knock (pulled ignition timing) and go from there. Definitely do not turn the boost up until then. Just keep it at 12psi.
 
Actually I do have an S-AFC (forgot to mention it). So you guys are saying that I will need some type of data logger to safely crank up the boost? I'm wondering what would you guys recommend. Also I'll pick up a Fuel Pressure Regulator (I think thats what you mean by AFPC) But I have not had any problems with the fuel at all.
 
Actually I do have an S-AFC (forgot to mention it). So you guys are saying that I will need some type of data logger to safely crank up the boost? I'm wondering what would you guys recommend. Also I'll pick up a Fuel Pressure Regulator (I think thats what you mean by AFPC) But I have not had any problems with the fuel at all.

Before I upgraded to DSMLink, I was using Pocketlogger for my datalogging. Here is a link to their website: http://www.pocketlogger.com/. This tool seemed to provide pretty decent datalogging capabilities at a reasonable price. It also allows you to retrieve and clear engine fault codes. You will, however, need a Palm PDA - you can find older-model used Palm PDA's pretty cheap these days.

Once you get a datalogger, the datalogger will "tell" you how much boost you can run with your particular setup - just keep a close eye on your timing and injector duty cycles.
 
No, they have loggers for 2g DSMs too. I know because I have a PocketLogger for my '97 GST. The one's for the 2g's are listed under OBDII.

click here <-- bottom of this page
 
If I was you I would buy a good WBo2 sensor before anything. I was tuning with a logger and with minimal knock burned an exhaust valve. The first mod a dsm should have is a wbo2 this way you can make sure your at a good afr and not tuning blind with a logger.
 
Awww, come on now. What about me, I'm running 22psi on the SMIC. You just have to inject a crap load of MeOH, or keep yourself limited to one pull every 30 minutes. :thumb:

Sleeper look :thumb: . But your stock smic is such a flow restriction when you get into the good flow level of a 16g. An upgraded smic and a little less meth is another option. A FMIC and a good amount of water/meth mix is my choice. It renders my small16g breathlessLOL .

You're a good tuner too. That has to be taken into consideration.
 
If I was you I would buy a good WBo2 sensor before anything. I was tuning with a logger and with minimal knock burned an exhaust valve. The first mod a dsm should have is a wbo2 this way you can make sure your at a good afr and not tuning blind with a logger.

I love having a wideband. And w/ a couple of extras, I can log w/ my LM-1 wideband. But no matter where the a/f ratio is, you have to tune for no knock or no timing dips (pulled timing from knock). You can never run too lean to make no power on pump gas because you'll knock before you reach such a lean burn on a WOT pull.

I am in no way negating the value and piece of mind a wideband unit provides. But, don't be afraid to tune your car at 20 psi because of not having a wideband. Many get EXCELLENT tunes. I re4cently swapped back to my small 16g from the 60-1 hybrid. I did not use my wideband to re-tune (change in spool and peak airflows caused me to tweak my tune). I finally got it back from a friend and hooked it up: I'm running dead on 11.2-11.5:1 right on through to 7500rpms. I just simply tuned for no knock at that is what my setup can handle at 22 psi from the small 16g. If the wideband read 10:1 I could do nothing about it, because my setup can't handle any less fuel or more timing w/out knock.

It certainly does make things easier. Set a target boost that others commonly run w/ your turbo to reach your hp goal. then set a target a/f ratio since you have a wideband. Then tweak the timing. This helps insure that you get the most timing you can get w/ a decent a/f ratio instead of the otherway around: the leanest a/f ratio you can get w/ decent timing. Because more power can be had w/ timing advance than leaning the a/f ratio.
 
Only way to tell for sure is to get a logger & see how much you can run before you knock. I can tell you one thing, I highly doubt you'll be able to run the 24 psi you mentioned with that fuel setup. 550's will give up long before 24 psi with an evoIII on a stroker. With an SAFC you are limited to a 650 injector & you'll probably be able to max those out before 24 psi as well.

As mentioned you need to upgrade the stock IC as well before you start to try running big boost. If you want to get the most out of your setup, probably going to want a FMIC, 750+ injectors & dsmlink to control them. Then probably a larger turbo as the stroker will drain that evoIII pretty quickly when you start running higher boost.

Side not: If your running the 255 pump you should be adding a proper AFPR (such as Aeromotive)
 
I have a big 16g with all supporting mods, and i'm ready to up my boost.

My question: Is it ok to raise my boost as high as I want as long as I dont get any knock?

Does anyone know the answer to this?
 
dont raise it too far to where its out of the turbos efficiency range, (which will create more heat and increase the engines chance of knocking) , start off smaller, try 20psi ( if u have all the supporting mods) do some pulls , log it look for knock, if there is none, increase the boost slightly etc...until you start to barely read a few counts, leave it alone once u get here. like i said theres no sense running too much boost, your turbo wont like it over time, stay within the efficiency range.
 
Yes, you turn the boost up to a point before you see knock. But considering your timign advance and your a/f ratio. You don't want to run pig rich on a stock fuel tune and up the boost. You'll get more power from lowerign the boost a little more than what you can get away w/ and attacking the timing and fuel curves.

How modified is your maf? If you just have the lower honeycomb removed, you'll overrun that long before 20 psi. This intales the maf "skipping" hertz counts and showing a lower airflow than their really is. Research this and monitor your hertz numbers.

You will max out your 550s long before you max out your big 16g. So you'll definately have to monitor your % IDC.
 
Well thanks for the help, I'm bidding on a 2g MAF now, will that change alot? TBH this MAF doesn't seem to be modified at all, it's just what the guy told me..And do you think 20psi is safe to test at?
 
Start at 15 psi.

You will notice no difference in power w/ ANY maf swap or mod (when done correctly). You will have a chance to run flows that the 1g maf cannot meter. This is the advantage of upgrading mafs. The limiting fator is your stock 1g maf. Your engine will blow via detonation or you won't be able to run the boost you can, w/ out the maf upgrade. a 2g maf can mater upwards of 500whp w/out issue.

It's been a while since I've messed w/ an safc. Research how to set the SAFC for a 2g maf. . .

Don't you dare do a thing without a logger!!!:thumb: (hopefully you wern't referring to backing the boost off after HEARING knock with your ears.)
 
Lol no way, I just downed the boost to keep it safe.. Well one problem at a time, my logger doesn't get connection, so im looking into a knock light
 
Well I tried connecting it to my OBDl port, I even soldered the wires together. I try to connect from my Palm, but it says no connection. Idk if I need to do anything else to get it to work but it's a PITA
 
xxraptor660xx said:
Well I tried connecting it to my OBDl port, I even soldered the wires together. I try to connect from my Palm, but it says no connection. Idk if I need to do anything else to get it to work but it's a PITA








Palm hardware usually is. Time to start saving for DSMLink.
 
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