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Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

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anyone know how far I can turn up my turbo with 91 octane. (stock turbo) and does octane booster really help? WTF
 
Octane booster raises your octane from 91 to 91.125.

Get a logger, crank up the boost until it knocks, back the boost off until it goes away.
 
I've been told most octane boosters will raise octane 1.5. This is when treating recommended amount, usually 20 gallons.

I believe Lucas makes one that raises it more like 3 octane.

I hate the stuff, but I'm considering it as I'm suck with sh*tty 91 octane as well.
 
91 octane is fine for our cars. No point in tuning it for gas that isn't always available. I run whatever is cheapest. Usually 89 octane. Car runs great and no problems. Once and a while I will use 104+ octance boost. Get the black bottle. Rated to raise octane rating 3-7 points. I got 4 points out of it once and that was as much as I have ever seen. A lot of people out there that think they NEED premium gas. I used it in my 2g because it said in the manual that it did but with the 1g's being lower compression I don't use it anymore and never hurt performance or gas milage.

* Back to the post, get a datelogger, rewire your fuel pump and 15psi is just fine on the 14b. Don't just crank it up and work your way down. Go the other way.*
 
Can anybody help me out with the limit of the T25? Mine's running 15psi right now, and i've been told i can turn it up to 16 with the addition of a fuel pump...
 
Sup Guys Question on Safe boost with the mods i have now intell I get Maf-t or S-AfC here the mods i have now Evo316g turbo Greddy Type-s BOV Injen intake NGK spark plugs and wires Walbro 255 fuel pump RnR downpipe 3'cat Apexis N1 catback EXh now Would 14psi be safe or even 15psi?

Also Maf-t is $195 and the S-AFC is $289 wich one should I get next?


:D
 
Proper punctuations will make your post a lot easier to understand. 16 psi should be good with the mods you have, you will not need either MAFT or SAFC until injector upgrades, money should be spent on an afpr now as I'm sure your stock fpr is being overrun-ed with the 255 pump. Make sure the typeS is recirculated.
 
I am the owner of a 1997 GS-T my T25 died on me so I bought an 18G turbo kit, boost is at set through the internal waste gate at about 10 psi, i just purchased some new upper intercooler pipes and a front mount intercooler along with the K&N FIPK i am just curious as to how much boost i can safely run with this specific equipment. i am aware that i will need a boost controller to increase boost. I just want to know whats safe for now, i plan on doing other mods but thats all in due time. thanks. :dsm:
 
DeadEnd97gst said:
I am the owner of a 1997 GS-T my T25 died on me so I bought an 18G turbo kit, boost is at set through the internal waste gate at about 10 psi, i just purchased some new upper intercooler pipes and a front mount intercooler along with the K&N FIPK i am just curious as to how much boost i can safely run with this specific equipment. i am aware that i will need a boost controller to increase boost. I just want to know whats safe for now, i plan on doing other mods but thats all in due time. thanks. :dsm:

You need a boost gauge too. I say between 10-13 until you get a 190 fuel pump.
 
Get a logger and rewire your fuel pump too. Then along with the boost gage you will have an idea of what a safe amount of boost is for your specific car. I would put an exhaust on also as soon as you can, at least catback but preferably turbo back. Making that turbo blow through a swizzle stick is a waste.

Seth
 
Defently get a boost gauge and a logger so you know for sure what is safe. With an 18g I would think 13-14 psi max, and you will be at the limits of the stock fuel system, make sure you atleast rewire the stock fuel pump. For comparison, before I had a chance to put in my fuel system, with a stock rewired fuel pump & the evoIII 15 psi was about the limit. With that I was logging a 107% duty cycle on the injectors, but still not knocking because the fuel maps are so rich from the factory.
 
every car is different. Get a logger and keep an eye on the internals. Make sure shes not leaning out too far anywhere in the rpm range. SAFC works miracles in tuning. You see a lean spot, add some fuel, get more power and fuel economy!
 
You'll probably be able to run 14-15 easily but as EVERYONE else said, get a logger and watch your timing. As far as a pump, just get a 255 and save yourself 100 bucks down the road if you plan to upgrade even more. GL with the fwd tho :p :thumb: :talon:
 
94Jettameowpsst said:
You'll probably be able to run 14-15 easily but as EVERYONE else said, get a logger and watch your timing. As far as a pump, just get a 255 and save yourself 100 bucks down the road if you plan to upgrade even more. GL with the fwd tho :p :thumb: :talon:

Upgrade to what? People on here with 50 trim turbos are running on the 190 fuel pump. Get a 255 pump and you need an AFPR (another $150-$200 in addition to the 255 pump) to prevent fuel over-run. Just get a 190 pump.
 
I ran 3 talons, a 92 auto, a 90 tsi, and 91 tsi, in 4 years with a walbro 255 with the stock fpr with no problem what so ever. Its just nice to know that you have extra fuel if you're planning to upgrade from a 50 trim :rolleyes:
 
94Jettameowpsst said:
I ran 3 talons, a 92 auto, a 90 tsi, and 91 tsi, in 4 years with a walbro 255 with the stock fpr with no problem what so ever. Its just nice to know that you have extra fuel if you're planning to upgrade from a 50 trim :rolleyes:

You have three 1G DSMs, he has a 2G. Fuel pressure on a 1G is 37psi, 2G is 43psi. :sneaky:
 
You need a logger. Safe boost is 10psi, assuming factory-recommended premium fuel. If you want to go higher, you'll need something to watch the engine for timing retard, since the 2Gs apparently can't log knock... as usual, if you're going to exceed factory specs and want to do it safely (aka: The Right Way), you'll need to get a little more in-depth than the typical commuter (who will occasionally glance to make sure the tires are still on the car before driving away).

Note that the 'normal' fuel pressure value for a 1G is 36-38psi with the vacuum line to the FPR disconnected. A 2G is quite a bit higher.. and some 2Gs have held a Walbro 255 HP on the stock FPR. Not saying it'll do it right on yours; as usual you'll need something to monitor it. Otherwise you could end up running erratically rich as the failing FPR fights against the fuel flow.
Import Evolution's IE-FPR kit has worked out well on my own car, no leaks (once I put the teflon tape on right) and a reliable pressure set and raise.
 
My 2G GSX aparently does not have a afpr on it, but runs a walbro 255 with no problems. Get's great gas milage and have not had any problems with fuel. I still plan to get a fpr in the future though, just for safety.
 
Exactly ^ The only way you'll "need" an afpr is if you
1. Buy the HP walbro 255 or,
2. Run injectors 650s or larger and lower base fuel pressure to compensate for the high ass timing you'll get from them
Or you could just get an eprom, buy the 255lph and call it a day and have no drawbacks what so ever :) :thumb: :talon:
 
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