Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

[Turbolaser]

Is it safe to do the boost contol solenoid mod on a stock 1G?

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Whoa, i didnt know it would bump it up that much?!? See, i have a logger, but i never had any problems over running my stock auto fpr but then again im going by my o2 voltage, the sound of my car, and the smell...i dont have a fuel pressure gauge. But, the eprom would compensate for the injectors, thats all, but turning down base fuel pressure does the same...sorta., Lemmie post after i get some sleep

 

[3134]

Alright, I have a 97 eclipse gs-t w/s16 g, downpipe, boost air/fuel gauges, safc, full turboback exhaust, intake... I installed my safc but have it set to zero. I am running at the "stock" boost of a s16g turbo that comes from slowboy racing which i believe comes at 9 psi. If anyone knows otherwise please let me know (have not yet installed the boost gauge so i am not sure the boost of yet but will install the second i am home with the car). I have a logger cable but am being told that it may be the wrong cable but i still want to set the safc if it is possible so i can turn the boost up. Please let me know what i should do, i am new to this and use peoples posts and comments to help my self learn more about my car.

 

[rowlex]

if you enjoy having a running car, dont turn the boost up until you get a logger.

 

[paul s]

Unless you have bigger injectors leave it at 0..

 

[larsrya8]

Whoa, i didnt know it would bump it up that much?!?

I thought that was common knowledge? A link to the AFPR FAQ on this site. A quote from it:

A dsm with an upgraded fuel pump (255 or larger equivalent) will overrun your stock FPR(increasing pressure) causing the fuel pressure to be eratic at idle and also will not raise 1:1 on boost. A non-stable base fuel pressure reading will cause your idle to stumble and It can also cause potential emissions problems. Not rasing on a 1:1 ratio during boost will cause you headaches tuning since you will not have the same fuel pressure on every run.

I know they say that "first hand experience" is better than hearsay, but this is an issue that has been beaten to death, and still keeps popping up.

 

[JayZDMX21]

Couldnt agree more, if you dont have logger,bigger injectors, fuel pump, or at least a 2g mass to go along with it, dont even worry about setting the boost any higher. Thats the main thing that new drivers with turbo cars do, is crank the boost up with no supporting fuel mods.

 

[rowlex]

Couldnt agree more, if you dont have logger,bigger injectors, fuel pump, or at least a 2g mass to go along with it, dont even worry about setting the boost any higher. Thats the main thing that new drivers with turbo cars do, is crank the boost up with no supporting fuel mods.

Car is a 2G, he should have a 2G mas with it

 

[DGajre777]

That is why I said get a 190 pump and save money on an AFPR unless you plan to go with an all track setup and a huge turbo.

larsrya8 - Thanks for that link. I was looking for that FAQ but I couldn't find it.

 

[Stapl3]

Whoa, i didnt know it would bump it up that much?!? See, i have a logger, but i never had any problems over running my stock auto fpr but then again im going by my o2 voltage, the sound of my car, and the smell...i dont have a fuel pressure gauge. But, the eprom would compensate for the injectors, thats all, but turning down base fuel pressure does the same...sorta., Lemmie post after i get some sleep

You have a 1g FPR. Original poster and I have a 2g. 2g's suck.

 

[Spaniel1287]

Yea i recently just put on a Walbro 190 fuel pump along with a boost/ Oil PSI gauge and MBC. Im running about 14-15psi WOT on my T25 and the car runs perfectly fine. Have been doing it like that for about 2 months now and not one problem yet. Although I do have a 14b sittin in the garage i need to get put on which should help alot. But yea i'd suggest before even thinking of raising boost to get a boost gauge for sure and then a new fuel pump. You dont absolutely need new injectors, SAFC, logger or whatever is it u want to get unless u plan on goin like with a 16g at like 21psi or something . But yea fuel pump, boost gauge, MBC and u coudl ###### turn it up to around 14psi and be perfectly safe.

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

Yea i recently just put on a Walbro 190 fuel pump along with a boost/ Oil PSI gauge and MBC. Im running about 14-15psi WOT on my T25 and the car runs perfectly fine. Have been doing it like that for about 2 months now and not one problem yet. Although I do have a 14b sittin in the garage i need to get put on which should help alot. But yea i'd suggest before even thinking of raising boost to get a boost gauge for sure and then a new fuel pump. You dont absolutely need new injectors, SAFC, logger or whatever is it u want to get unless u plan on goin like with a 16g at like 21psi or something . But yea fuel pump, boost gauge, MBC and u coudl ###### turn it up to around 14psi and be perfectly safe.

People these days. If you plan at all I mean at all to turn the boost up, you need a logger. Plane and simple. 14-15psi on a t-25 isn't that much at all,also I bet you bov is leaking to. He should get a boost gage, then a logger, than see where he needs to go from there. I'm only at 15psi on my evo16g and I need a logger. If you modify it at all you need a logger. Did I mention you need a logger if you touch anything? That 100-300 logger could save your engine.Keep that in mind.

Oh yeah you need a logger if you modify anything.


Derek

 

[TurboDreamzGST]

ok i have a 97 GST....its pretty much stock except for a full Megan 2.5" exhaust (which im hoping to replace soon with something a little bit better) and an HKS SSQV BOV....i'm just wondering what a safe level of boost would be to run it at without doing any damage...i have an aftermarket boost gauge and it says im running about 12 PSI....i also read in the tech guide that if i remove a certain sensor or something off of my wastegate it will increase the boost 1-2 PSI safely as well......but with a boost controller what do you think would be the highest I could go SAFELY?? please help

 

[Talesin]

Safely? Around 14psi. You can remove a restrictor in the stock boost control solenoid (carefully) to bump it a PSI or two. To know for-certain though, you'll need a datalogger cable to track any pulled timing (indicating knock on a 2G, as they apparently can't log knock directly).

Just as a side-note, you ARE recirculating that SSQV, right? If you're atmospheric venting it, please read the 'Newbie Mistakes FAQ' ASAP, and grab the recirculation fitting.

 

[dalatinromeo]

i'm just wondering what a safe level of boost would be to run it at without doing any damage.... but with a boost controller what do you think would be the highest I could go SAFELY??

You should be able to run 14 psi safely without any damage. But the only way you can be sure there is no damage, you will need a logger or of course DSMLink. But i think a logger is sufficient for you right now.

i also read in the tech guide that if i remove a certain sensor or something off of my wastegate it will increase the boost 1-2 PSI safely as well

Yes you can do the boost control solenoid mod. You can easily read how to do it in the tech articles or vfaq.

Hope this helps! Stay boostin

 

[TurboDreamzGST]

ok thanks a lot guys that really helps....and btw....i heard a lot about re-circulating that SSQV but as for right now im not because the place where i got the BOV was out of stock on the re-circ. kit....wat are the negative effects of not re-circulating the BOV? will that do any damage to the car or is it safe to keep it vented for now while my car is pretty much stock? i mean i plan on getting the re-circ kit sooner or later but i heard that it was ok to vent unless you are running higher levels of boost and have began to modify the cars performance with more parts than i have right now....thanks for all the help guys

 

[dalatinromeo]

Don't vent.

You car will start to run rich, your car may start to stall, and idle problems may occur.

Venting is great when done properly. Having a gm-maf and maf-t. If you are venting incorrectly, go purchase the recirculating kit from another vendor.

 

[grntalontsi]

Listen to this guy ^^ Venting is bad. Your ecu needs that recirculated air to correctly measure the amount of fuel it should be supplying. I used my stock recirculating hose, but I have a greddy bov not an hks, so I'm not sure how they would connect.

About the psi issue. I'm running at about 16 psi on the stock T-25, although it is ported.

 

[-DSM2NR-]

I'm was running 15psi on the stock T25 without any problems. When I put my downpipe on it went up to 16psi and I still have no problems.

My advice is not to go above 15psi on a stock fuel system.

 

[GSTealth]

When you get closer to the ragged edge, what is "safe" vary from car to car, and depending on mods. Also, depends on the conditions, such as weather, temperature, altitude, etc. What might be ok one day might be not so okay another day. So you might want to give your self a bit of a safety net to allow for variable conditions. Also, the type of gas you get to play with will make a difference. Over here in Cali, our 91 piss octane gas aint so great for boostin...

 

[shingevo]

yeah only 14 or 15psi no more than 15 to be safe and vent the BOV so you wont have any problems with your idle.

 

[chico904]

yeah only 14 or 15psi no more than 15 to be safe and vent the BOV so you wont have any problems with your idle.

NO do not vent your BOV

 

[SkyLineGtR-R34]

NO do not vent your BOV

he can vent it with gm maf and maft pro without problems, but not without it

 

[dalatinromeo]

vent the BOV so you wont have any problems with your idle

Why would you tell him to vent his bov. He doesn't have a gm maf and maft to vent his bov properly. If you vent incorrectly it will give you idle problems not solve any of them.

 

[TurboDreamzGST]

guys you have really helped me a lot...i really appreciate it but im still a newbie and this may sound like a stupid question but wat exactly is a "gm maf" or a "maft"? what does it do, where can i pick it up and about how much do they run?? sorry for all the questions but im just tryin to get as familiar with my car and its parts as i can....thanks for all the help...i really appreciate it

 

[Talesin]

The stock MAS is a Karmann Vortex style. It's very restrictive, and measures air before it's pulled in through the turbo (a draw-through arrangement). If you vent your BOV to the atmosphere (getting you that little 'hiss' noise on shifts), you'll 'lose' air that's already been counted, making you run stupidly pig-rich.

A GM MAS uses a hotwire setup, and can be mounted after the BOV, only counting air that passes through it, allowing you to atmospheric-vent the BOV, as well as have less intake restriction (flows approximately 500% better than the stock 1G MAS) making for a faster turbo spool-up (less lag).
Down side, you can't just plug in a GM MAS and have it work. You need a box called a Mass AirFlow Translator (MAF-T) to convert the GM MAS signal into the Karmann signal.

Generally, a MAF-T runs about $200 new, and a GM MAS can run anywhere from nearly free (junkyard) to about $300 (new from dealer). Then you need hard upper intercooler piping, and silicone reducers to mount it in blow-through mode (after the turbo, and usually after the BOV). It IS a performance upgrade if you're to the point of having the intake restriction make a notable difference, but most of those who toss it on are just trying to get the ricey BOV sound.