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Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

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You should be okay at 15psi, but you really won't know anything till you look at a logger, or look at a wideband.

I'm pulling timing out a lower boost levels, so that I don't have to compansate using fuel later.

MSD Programmble (w/ boost retard) kicks ass. Really pricy but www.prostreetonline has the best price I've seen, they beat out all the competitors by over 60 bucks. My friend who owns a shop with the same supplier as them, says his supplier can't even figure out how they got such a good price.

LOL, but to get back to the thread, and questions, you won't know anything till you can see the effects of going from 14psi to 15psi.

I really would invest in a logger AND wideband, I've got a friend with a GSX who decided to turn his boost up from 20psi to 22psi just because he bought a downpipe. Didn't even look at his airfuel gauge (which is broken anyways) but I feel bad for having a friend who doesn't check stuff like that out.
 
Hey guys
I am currently running 12-13psi on rewired pump and everything seems well. My walbro 190 came in and I am wondering how much I am able to bump up the boost safely. I have some Denso evo8 560's comming in in about 3 weeks so thats when the real tunning will begin but till then I would like to enjoy some extra psi :) I am running 94 octane
I had a chart somewhere that listed varius mods and psi on different octanes and I cant seem to find it. The page had a blue background. Thanks

I am on stock exhaust and have 0 issues with boost creep with the E16G. will going to a 3 inch turbo back give me big gains without increasing creep? I read mixed reviews were creep doesnt care which exhaust you have and some say it makes all the difference.

Thanks
 
You could probably turn it up a little, but i'd wait for them injectors. Also with that exhaust you might run into a little bit of a boost creep problem but if you port the turbo you can get rid of that. Do you have anything to log or tune with?
-ADAM-:talon:
 
I'd leave the boost as is as well, until you get that logger on there. And the 3" exhaust could give you some creep, and it may not. Woudn't know for sure until you tried it. You could avoid the problem by getting the o2 ported and wastegate opening hogged out first.
 
you could probably go 16 psi. but personally, i would go past what your on right now. just wait for you injectors to come in.

And when i got my 3" turbo back exhaust, i had HORRIBLE boost creep. But that was on the stock t25.

good luck.
 
well im planning to put an evo 02 housing in with my 3inch turbo back. i hope that will prevent creeping....
 
Even with the O2 housing you still might have to port the part of the turbo where the wastegate flapper opens so that it opens exactly 90* but you wont find out till you put the exhaust on, but better safe then sorry :thumb:
-ADAM-:talon:
 
Spooling99 said:
Even with the O2 housing you still might have to port the part of the turbo where the wastegate flapper opens so that it opens exactly 90* but you wont find out till you put the exhaust on, but better safe then sorry :thumb:
-ADAM-:talon:

good attempt, but that is not what causes boost creep. if you ever have boost tested the WGA on an evo316G, you will notice that the WGA will open the flapper door ONLY 45*. So porting for that 90* movement wont do anything for you. You want the turbine inlet and outlet to be ported for maximum flow. that means enlarging the inlet, flapper hole, outlet.

goodluck :thumb:

oh yea, boost creep sucks. take care of the turbine housing and o2 housing before you slap your turboback on.
 
Just a theoretical question:
I have an EVO manifold, EVO turbo and will get an EVO o2 housing. I would assume that the stock evo motor did not creep?????? Would this not be just like an evo motor?

Thanks

blcknspo0ln said:
good attempt, but that is not what causes boost creep. if you ever have boost tested the WGA on an evo316G, you will notice that the WGA will open the flapper door ONLY 45*. So porting for that 90* movement wont do anything for you. You want the turbine inlet and outlet to be ported for maximum flow. that means enlarging the inlet, flapper hole, outlet.

goodluck :thumb:

oh yea, boost creep sucks. take care of the turbine housing and o2 housing before you slap your turboback on.
 
No, it's not an Evo motor. Even though the Evo uses a 4g63t like we do there are differences. What are they? Hell if I know, I work on DSM's ;)
They blue page you are referring to is on www.roadraceengineering.com
Without a logger don't mess with the boost much past stock. There is absolutely no way to say what will be good for your car and what won't without a logger.
 
I have a 1g eclipse gst and I killed my 14b and I have a E316g on the way. I was just wondering, with my bone stock engine what boost is safe to run? I'd like to run 14-15, is that too much? also what should my first mods be after putting on the E316g so I can run a little higher boost without fuel cut? Help is very appreciated:dsm:
 
You'll be fine at 15PSI. Time for some upgrades to get the full potential from that turbo.
 
Don't go over 15PSI.:thumb:

As for the next upgrades, it all depends on where you eventually want you car to be at. If your not going to mod too much, just get a Walbro 190 fuel pump and you can turn up the boost 3 more PSI. If you plan on much more power, get DSMLink, and injectors as well.:D
 
if you're going the cheap route, get a set of injectors, pump, (if you have an eprom) chip for the injectors, and afc. But...you might run into the problem im having, im overrunning my maf at about 4800+rpm and my car runs like crap. Id suggest getting a maf-t as well
 
there is so much missinformation on this page its sickening. you can't measure the amount of boost to up with each mod u put on. you have a datalogger for a reason. you're going to want at least a set of 550cc injecotors, a 255lph pump (rewired) and a Aermotive or equivelant regulator, plus you have your choice of any tuning device you wish to run. ( maf-t, afc, dsmlink)

every car is different and you'll never know how much boost to run until you log it. even if the car can safely run 15psi right now on the 14b, 15psi on the evo3 will be pushing far more lbs/min of air therefore you need a lot more fuel ;). if you dont have the money do at least the fuel pump and regulator and hold off on the injectors. you can raise your fuel pressure to compensate for having smaller injectors and then just lean out the lower rpms on your piggyback device.

oh and by the way fuel cut has nothing to do with the fuel system it has to do with the ecu seeing a cap in airflow, meaning you are overruning the mas.
 
good job, very good info.

If you are on a completely stock fuel system, you will more than likely knock at 15 psi. As stated above, do each boost change with a log and monitor your knock. My rule of thumb for boost is:

stock, 13psi MAX
190/255 FP + AFPR, 16 psi
+ injectors, high as you want.

Take that into consideration that you will have to make a decision based on your mods and ability to tune. With a 16G, most people do not push it past the 21psi mark. DO NOT turn your boost up based solely on what I say. Do your research and you will understand the importance of keeping your boost in check with your mods. LOG LOG LOG.
 
90_talon_matt said:
there is so much missinformation on this page its sickening. you can't measure the amount of boost to up with each mod u put on. you have a datalogger for a reason. you're going to want at least a set of 550cc injecotors, a 255lph pump (rewired) and a Aermotive or equivelant regulator, plus you have your choice of any tuning device you wish to run. ( maf-t, afc, dsmlink)

every car is different and you'll never know how much boost to run until you log it. even if the car can safely run 15psi right now on the 14b, 15psi on the evo3 will be pushing far more lbs/min of air therefore you need a lot more fuel ;). if you dont have the money do at least the fuel pump and regulator and hold off on the injectors. you can raise your fuel pressure to compensate for having smaller injectors and then just lean out the lower rpms on your piggyback device.

oh and by the way fuel cut has nothing to do with the fuel system it has to do with the ecu seeing a cap in airflow, meaning you are overruning the mas.


Misinformation? You fail to mention that when you raise your fuel pressure and lean it out it signifigantly increases your timing in the upper rpms, so the mods you have done to your car will be futile if have no way to control it. Id suggest getting a fpr that you can lower your fp with and when you do get bigger injectors, (if you're not running an eprom or dsmlink), lower your fuel pressure and add fuel with your afc accordingly to compensate for the timing increase you'll get from the larger injectors


Edit...just realized you arent getting bigger injectors, but adding fuel pressure can cause all kind of spray pattern problems, id do it right the first time and get parts when you can get them, until then, dont push it :dsm: :thumb:
 
unless you're a complete retard and try to go hog wild with the fuel pressure you wont run into any crazy timing issues with adding a few extra psi of fuel pressure.

no matter what you decide to do just watch the logger and make adjustments accordingly. oh and 94jetta search around on here and dsmtalk for some fuel pressure tuning threads. as long as you dont push the idc too far you wont run into any spray pattern problems.
 
90_talon_matt said:
there is so much missinformation on this page its sickening. you can't measure the amount of boost to up with each mod u put on. you have a datalogger for a reason. you're going to want at least a set of 550cc injecotors, a 255lph pump (rewired) and a Aermotive or equivelant regulator, plus you have your choice of any tuning device you wish to run. ( maf-t, afc, dsmlink)

every car is different and you'll never know how much boost to run until you log it. even if the car can safely run 15psi right now on the 14b, 15psi on the evo3 will be pushing far more lbs/min of air therefore you need a lot more fuel ;). if you dont have the money do at least the fuel pump and regulator and hold off on the injectors. you can raise your fuel pressure to compensate for having smaller injectors and then just lean out the lower rpms on your piggyback device.

I hear ya, this missinformation has to stop. Please, if your not 100% sure on something DON'T POST. When I was on 450's with my evo3 w/255fp, afpr, and fmic 12psi was really pushing it for me with overly high IDC's. Even when I put in 650's running 15psi I'd see high 80's and sometimes 90%+ duty cycles. Like Matt mentioned, the only way to be sure is to log what your doing. Start with a lower boost level, make sure everything is OK, then add a little more boost and log to make sure everything is still ok. You'll know how much boost you'll be able to safely run.
 
I have a 1997 Eclipse GST with the stock engine, and a 14b turbo. The engine was rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. I bought a turbo XS manual boost controller and I was wanting to know how much boost I can run safely without modifying the engine.
 
Until you get a fuel pump, AFPR (for a 255lph or ^), and injectors, I would say about 14-15 psi. Although your stock BOV probably leaks around 12psi, so you might want to think about upgrading that first. I would get a logger of some sort so you can watch your timing and then you'll know for sure what boost level would be the best for your car.
 
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