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2G Lifter tick fix need asap

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Vapezilla

Proven Member
36
0
Aug 28, 2023
Asia
I just got my 2g GST engine rebuilt and installed in my car. Now upon startup we noticed that the head ticks a lot but it never did that before I decided to have the engine rebuilt.

Now the mechanic who is working on my car wants to change the oil pump and that's not cheap. I already spent more than I should've because originally the job was supposed to be just a clutch and head gasket replacement, then he saw that my crank is moving that's why we decided to rebuild it.

Few days later and a bunch of money of money spent. HEAD TICKS A LOT AND IT'S NOISY EVEN AFTER A FEW MINUTES OF RUNINNG but when I rev it the ticking goes away but when it idles back the ticking reoccurs.

Now he's telling me he can't do a back job if I decided to run it as is but he suggested to remove the oil pump which means we need to remove the engine again and the parts ain't cheap plus I'm not sure anymore if it will really fix my problem.

Please tell me what's the problem and the way to fix it. I don't want to spend anymore money on the engine, not because I don't want to, but because I know its not a serious problem but he keeps insisting that we should remove the engine again.

I didn't drive my car because we finished late and I don't want to risk it because of the way he's telling that something is still wrong. That's why I'm not sure if the car is now fine just noisy or there's still a real problem.
 
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Did he check the oil pressure or is he just suggesting an oil pump? If he didn't check the pressure he is throwing parts at the car without diagnosing the issue and you need to find a new mechanic.

These cars are known for having lifter tick. There is revised version of the lifters called 3g lifters which solve a lot of the ticking issues.

 
He was asking me if i have an oil pressure gauge, well i have none. Is there a way to visibly check it? He said that some of the lifters doesnt "lift" that much
Did he check the oil pressure or is he just suggesting an oil pump. If he didn't check the pressure he is throwing parts at the car without diagnosing the issue and you need to find a new mechanic.

These cars are know for having lifter tick. There is revised version of the lifters called 3g lifters which solve a lot of the ticking issues.

 
Now the mechanic who is working on my car wabt to change the oil pump and that's not cheap.
I don't think that's a good idea until you pinpoint the issue. In case if the oil pump is already bad, then you would probably need more work and parts.

If you don't have a oil pressure gauge, at idle, remove the oil filler cap and see if the rocker arm under the oil filler hole is jetting oil to cam lobe and rocker arm roller bearing. If you don't see it jetting oil like the video below, like no oil coming out or just seeping out and not reaching to cam lobe, probably you have oil pressure issue. In that case, I recommend not to run the engine anymore to avoid your rebuilt engine get damaged. If you see like the video, at least you have some oil pressure.

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I don't want to be negative but I have this thought.....is it possible to put the head gasket on "backwards" and it blocks the oiling hole to the head???? I am not at home but I can answer my own question when I get there this afternoon, since I am right at the point to check that for the OP. :idontknow:
The top end sounds like it is not getting ENOUGH oil pressure is why this thought arose, since the OP said that if he revs it, the noise goes away but comes back at idle.
Anyone???
 
If the HLAs were bled, it can take some time for them to prime and stop ticking. For instance, I installed a new set of revised HLA's, primed and bled them on the bench, and they still took maybe 20 minutes to quite down.
+1 for accurate oil pressure at the oil filter housing. Aftermarket gauge required.
Did you have the head resurfaced during the process? If so, read up on the head oil port mod. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.341028/
Did he install a new gasket on your oil pump pickup tube?
If the mechanic did his job correctly, he would know the condition of the oil pump and not just throw parts at it willy-nilly. Furthermore, it does not require pulling the engine to inspect/replace the oil pump.
 
1. Find a new mechanic
2. Check your oil pressure at the OFH and the head port.
3. Why didn’t you replace the oil pump when you “rebuilt” the motor?
4. Did you reuse the same lifters that came out of the car?

-Daniel
1. Yeah i think i have to get my car checked by a dsm pro

2. Will do that

3. Upon inspection the oil pump was in great shape, we never thought things like this could happen.

4.Yes we did use the same lifters
 
I don't think that's a good idea until you pinpoint the issue. In case if the oil pump is already bad, then you would probably need more work and parts.

If you don't have a oil pressure gauge, at idle, remove the oil filler cap and see if the rocker arm under the oil filler hole is jetting oil to cam lobe and rocker arm roller bearing. If you don't see it jetting oil like the video below, like no oil coming out or just seeping out and not reaching to cam lobe, probably you have oil pressure issue. In that case, I recommend not to run the engine anymore to avoid your rebuilt engine get damaged. If you see like the video, at least you have some oil pressure.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The cam lobes are getting oil but not all of them gets oil the same as the others. Is that normal?
 
If the HLAs were bled, it can take some time for them to prime and stop ticking. For instance, I installed a new set of revised HLA's, primed and bled them on the bench, and they still took maybe 20 minutes to quite down.
+1 for accurate oil pressure at the oil filter housing. Aftermarket gauge required.
Did you have the head resurfaced during the process? If so, read up on the head oil port mod. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.341028/
Did he install a new gasket on your oil pump pickup tube?
If the mechanic did his job correctly, he would know the condition of the oil pump and not just throw parts at it willy-nilly. Furthermore, it does not require pulling the engine to inspect/replace the oil pump.
The car never ran past 10 minutes after the rebuild as the mechanic is saying that there maybe something wrong. How long does it usually take for the lifters to quiet down? I really dont have an idea. Maybe the noise is normal and we just didnt let the car idle for long enough to completely prime the dry lifters?

The head was resurfaced
 
1. Yeah i think i have to get my car checked by a dsm pro

2. Will do that

3. Upon inspection the oil pump was in great shape, we never thought things like this could happen.

4.Yes we did use the same lifters
Im assuming when you say upon inspection you tore the pump off the front cover and straight edged both gears in the case and used feeler gauges to check?

I would check the oil pressure out before doing anything else for sure:

Did this mechanic happen to delete the balance shafts while he had it?



-Daniel
 
The cam lobes are getting oil but not all of them gets oil the same as the others.
What do you mean by this? Do you have a video or a pic? Did you see the rocker arm under the oil filler cap jetting oil? I asked this because the location you see through the oil filler hole is the farthest location from the oil pump. So if you see some pressure in there at idle, at least the oil pump is building the minimum required oil pressure.

We still don't know what kind of noise you actually have since you haven't provided us any video. Could be something totally different. So we can't even be so sure yet if it's lifter ticking. You also mentioned that if you rev the engine the noise would go away. This means most likely it's related to oil pressure.

If it's lifter ticking sound as expected and is occurring due to not being bled well before installing, usually it would take some time to disappear. Some hours of driving or maybe take some days. But if the lifter ticking sound is occurring due to low or no oil pressure at the cylinder head, it won't go away until you fix the issue mechanically and you would be in a trouble soon if you keep running the engine.

Anyways you should make sure what oil pressure the engine actually has first before buying another parts.
 
Im assuming when you say upon inspection you tore the pump off the front cover and straight edged both gears in the case and used feeler gauges to check?

I would check the oil pressure out before doing anything else for sure:

Did this mechanic happen to delete the balance shafts while he had it?



-Daniel
Actually he installed a balance shaft belt. When he was removing the engine we noticed that the balanced shaft belt was deleted
 
Actually he installed a balance shaft belt. When he was removing the engine we noticed that the balanced shaft belt was deleted
I was thinking maybe the balance shaft belt is the one making this problem, because i bought the car as is and i never checked the belts upon inspecting before buying the car
 
Actually he installed a balance shaft belt. When he was removing the engine we noticed that the balanced shaft belt was deleted
Uhh, you cannot just reinstall a balance belt if it was deleted previously. Maybe the front shaft was still installed, but the oil pump stub shaft would have to be swapped back to a full balance shaft. If it still has a stub shaft and he installed a BS belt, you have vibrating ticking time bomb.
 
If the balance shafts were deleted and then you just reinstalled the front and rear shafts without reorienting the bearings we may have found your problem.

We need an oil pressure reading from an actual gauge at the ofh. Doesn’t even have to be mounted just hook it up and zip tie it up so you can watch the oil pressure from cold start to warm idle.

-Daniel
 
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