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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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There is no easy way to remove the rear bumper cover.
Jack up the rear, remove two wheels, remove the back fender liner to get to the corner bolts.
All the lower rear interior has to come off:
This lets you remove the tail lights and center garnish, and THEN you can get to the cover bolts top and bottom,
Undo the license plate wiring, and in my case unmount a rearview camera so that, you can carefully lift back the cover. Don’t forget the cover clips that tie into the bumper.
Oh man just the thought of all that work is so bad. I will immediately watch a few YouTube Shorts to refresh my mood. There - good now.
All that stuff was already removed on my car by the PO. All I would have to do is a little fabbing and cutting to get a tow thingie of some kind on my back end. But I've been too lazy to do it so far.

These files have different timecodes, and different number of samples per second, the ECU being about double the sample rate of the RC.log data.

Note: The header of the data in ECM Link is really different than the header of the RC.log, because RC uses the header structure to define the name, min, max, units, and frequency of data. Oh - I should mention - RC.log is a sparsely populated CSV format (very efficient), where a channel is only updated at it's defined frequency. (a flexible use of data stream). The ECU log by comparison populats every value at the maximum uncompressed one value for every sensor, every herz. (impressive bandwidth from ECM Link - IMO) Making this merge was painful. I needed Excel, a UTF8 compatible text viewer (to remove extra " characters created by Excel), Then I needed to debug a number of steps from pre-merged (where you can still change the data alignment with a simple time offset in the merge) to post merge to ensure the file was pure and indistinguishable from a native RC.log file format.
What I noticed in the video in post #1193 was the update rate did seem a little slow. How many updates per second is that about, in the final display - do you have a number for it? It's a cool thing to have in any case.
 
What I noticed in the video in post #1193 was the update rate did seem a little slow. How many updates per second is that about, in the final display - do you have a number for it? It's a cool thing to have in any case.
Yeah, the software is smoother when it is running without also capturing a screen grab video at the same time. Brent at ASL is going to be adding a render to file option - I gave feedback that it needs to render to at least 4K resolution.
 
Hmmm i dont see copper seize anywhere LOL

Do yourself a favor and every bolt you remove ALWAYS use copper seize on the threads. Make it a new thing. Touch the car = add copper seize 🤣
 
Hmmm i dont see copper seize anywhere LOL

Do yourself a favor and every bolt you remove ALWAYS use copper seize on the threads. Make it a new thing. Touch the car = add copper seize 🤣
I did in fact re tap the chassis nuts, SS brush the best of the old two bolts that were re-used, and coat the threads with nickel anti-seize. I do that so much I don’t even say anything abut it. - it just happens
 
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I did in fact re tap the chassis nuts, SS brush the best of the old two bolts that were re-used, and coat the threads with nickel anti-seize. I do that so much I don’t even say anything abut it. - it just happens
Your a clean man then. When i use anti seize i get it around the heads and see it LOL extra extra protection. Admire the cleanness of the anti seize install on your bolts then mr 🤘
 
Got to keep clean working with shiny parts.

Still Fing amazed how good the body work and pant was done- everything I take apart is put together the way it was supposed to be put together, that almost never happens when you give your car to someone else to work on. So happy.

Task 2 under the bumper complete- a little aluminum L bracket for the back up camera. If I’ve done this right, I won’t need the bolt on license plate support, and it’ll clean up the look.
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With no bolts in at all the bumper just hangs right where it should.
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now all bolts in, hand tight, clips installed, and go back and count to doublecheck
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looks like the acid took out some more stuff. anyone got a part number for this? It was hanging on the charcoal canister with a hose, heading toward the rear of the car.

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I think it might be this one: MB925886
 
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Well, spending time split between the front and back. I put a 6an fitting on one end of 10ft of hose and hooked it up to the old filter. Next I set the battery in place to power the car and pump the fuel tank empty.

I then replaced the filter and got the fuel system sealed back up. It was a real son of a bi*** trying to get the bracket to point the fuel filter straight up instead of angled at the battery tray (It caught the majority of acid)
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Adding a little clearance around the bolts to angle the bracket was ok, but getting the hardline lined up underneath the fuel filter was more than fun.
Thats when I found the dissolved parts of the valve connected to the charcoal canister.

In the back, I made the bolts all tight, and installed the tail lights. i’m gonna wait to mount the camera until I can turn the car back on.

I ordered up a tow loop from Summit Racing with the G-Force logo on it, same make as my driver suit. Its raited for 6000 pounds, and it’s coming from a reputable race shop. Some of the questionable tow loops I’ve seen out there on Amazon and eBay are downright scary. No way you should tie into any strap that has no rating, and 2000lb isnt actually very much - might be ok if you are on flat asphalt, but in a muddy ditch? good luck.

I also ordered a 1.5 bar radium radiator cap. Heat is definitely the Number One limiting factor. I need to invest time in moving some air flow towards hot spots
 
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PM me your info and I'll get it out to you tomorrow. Are you sure you don't need anything else from the EVAP system before I pack this up? If I have it I'll throw it in there as well.
MB920554 - the battery tray lining if you have it?
As far as I can tell, the rest of the charcoal canister and other valves are still intact.
 
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