Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[We're on Boost]

I did a search for tow hook sticker - this is NOT what I expected to find:

but but - they "decorate your car very well" !

Well you've probably found something better by now but if not, there are these at Pegasus:

Type A

Type B

 

[Justin DuBois]

Also found
TrackDecals

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Summit Racing was Fast! I ordered these this weekend - showed up Monday.
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Strong tow loop:
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I’ll tuck this away most of the time.

2 things.

1, be careful with that rad cap and stock type hoses! They do not support the pressures the higher rated caps produce! So they can split oem based hoses very fast! Silicone uogrades are genetally better for you when you increase the pressure.

2. On the tow strap you want it free moving. If they need to use it to pull out sideways it can loosen the bolt and bend the buckle and tear it! So add a sleeve to allow a free moving buckle and this is strong in any direction then. Or consider a cable thats rated to a higher capacity but still ideally free moving to prevent bolt coming loose on you. Likely wont need it but never know and always make sure its accounted for in all situations before hand.

 

[We're on Boost]

On the tow strap you want it free moving. If they need to use it to pull out sideways it can loosen the bolt and bend the buckle and tear it! So add a sleeve to allow a free moving buckle and this is strong in any direction then.

Yeah I noticed that some of these straps have a 14mm or 15mm hole where you put the mounting bolt through. Maybe they are figuring a 12mm or half-inch bolt with a sleeve around it?
What is the hole diameter in that G-Force strap Justin? It looks about right but I didn't see a diameter number anywhere on the web pages. I need something like that too.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Yeah I noticed that some of these straps have a 14mm or 15mm hole where you put the mounting bolt through. Maybe they are figuring a 12mm or half-inch bolt with a sleeve around it?
What is the hole diameter in that G-Force strap Justin? It looks about right but I didn't see a diameter number anywhere on the web pages. I need something like that too.

Alot of the UK based events now ban these versions as they dont offer as much support and their logic is it needs to hold the weight of the whole car in the UK we need 4 now vs 2 previously. I know we stem from FIA which is OTT sometimes.

Most i have seen or even had previously were 12mm holes. Oem tow eyelets are m14-18 depending on manufactuer so about middle ground is strong for the holt then the rest is uoto the buckle but if free moving loads ideal all the time vs pulling the strap sideways if needed

 

[turbosax2]

Also found
TrackDecals

Don't buy from them. Nice products, but it took over 4 months to get my last order of number plates for my car with zero communication on their end.

 

[turbosax2]

2. On the tow strap you want it free moving. If they need to use it to pull out sideways it can loosen the bolt and bend the buckle and tear it! So add a sleeve to allow a free moving buckle and this is strong in any direction then. Or consider a cable thats rated to a higher capacity but still ideally free moving to prevent bolt coming loose on you. Likely wont need it but never know and always make sure its accounted for in all situations before hand.

The tow hook mounting bracket is designed so that the tow hook sits over a sleeve so it can rotate 360* without loosening up the bolt.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The tow hook mounting bracket is designed so that the tow hook sits over a sleeve so it can rotate 360* without loosening up the bolt.

Thats great then. I wanted to mention it just incase. if its added into it then no worries on it. better to be safe than not of said anything.

 

[We're on Boost]

Alot of the UK based events now ban these versions

Are you saying they ban tow straps period?

If they ban tow straps, then what do they think about tow hooks?

Since our terminology is getting a little messy here, I'm going to show some pics of what I mean by a tow hook:

​

Tow Hooks & Tow Straps

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Are you saying they ban tow straps period?

If they ban tow straps, then what do they think about tow hooks?

Since our terminology is getting a little messy here, I'm going to show some pics of what I mean by a tow hook:

View attachment 755678 View attachment 755679 View attachment 755681

​

Tow Hooks & Tow Straps

So yes and no to the straps, it depends on the series but they don't like them much since they can tear and bend from the buckle design. the loops or hooks as shown in your post is fine but they require a min hole size of 40mm if fixed round or wire round is fine also (wire is what i use) If like your pics they do suggest they fully mounted to a solid fixture on the chassis and don't flex which is why they like m14+ in bolt size. (your first yellow one is weak and would not be ideal) porsche make a flip out one that's hidden for aero and pulled out when required and can lift the car up also.

I know the UK and US have vastly different rulings and such, we live a lot by MSA/FIA regulations SUPER high standards and sometimes very annoying to meet. I never fully get some of the US regulations and requirements or lack of should i say. but each organization differs.

 

[Justin DuBois]

So yes and no to the straps, it depends on the series but they don't like them much since they can tear and bend from the buckle design. the loops or hooks as shown in your post is fine but they require a min hole size of 40mm if fixed round or wire round is fine also (wire is what i use) If like your pics they do suggest they fully mounted to a solid fixture on the chassis and don't flex which is why they like m14+ in bolt size. (your first yellow one is weak and would not be ideal) porsche make a flip out one that's hidden for aero and pulled out when required and can lift the car up also.

I know the UK and US have vastly different rulings and such, we live a lot by MSA/FIA regulations SUPER high standards and sometimes very annoying to meet. I never fully get some of the US regulations and requirements or lack of should i say. but each organization differs.

If needed, I’ll make an adjustment if the rules require. I can say that clubs allow street cars without roll cages and other traditional race car safety equipment, (like window nets, power cutoff switches, fire suppression, 5point harnesses) etc.

And at a private track - you are more at your own discretion. I’m adding this mostly to save myself from causing a lost session for a club, and avoid heavy equipment on track to pull me out of a gravel trap.

 

[We're on Boost]

So yes and no to the straps, it depends on the series but they don't like them much since they can tear and bend from the buckle design. the loops or hooks as shown in your post is fine but they require a min hole size of 40mm if fixed round or wire round is fine also (wire is what i use) If like your pics they do suggest they fully mounted to a solid fixture on the chassis and don't flex which is why they like m14+ in bolt size. (your first yellow one is weak and would not be ideal) porsche make a flip out one that's hidden for aero and pulled out when required and can lift the car up also.

I know the UK and US have vastly different rulings and such, we live a lot by MSA/FIA regulations SUPER high standards and sometimes very annoying to meet. I never fully get some of the US regulations and requirements or lack of should i say. but each organization differs.

Ok thanks for the info.
I'm not actually needing to meet the regulations of any race org because I'm not planning on racing.
But I do need to think about how to do a decent job of it, because pulling the car up onto a flatbed - that takes a lot of pull force, and my car has a locked center diff which fights motion whenever the steering is not perfectly straight ahead.

So far, I've always had the car pulled from the front, and I've been using the factory tie-down bracket for that, and that is strong.
But I want to rig something for the rear. So all this discussion is pretty helpful.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

If needed, I’ll make an adjustment if the rules require. I can say that clubs allow street cars without roll cages and other traditional race car safety equipment, (like window nets, power cutoff switches, fire suppression, 5point harnesses) etc.

And at a private track - you are more at your own discretion. I’m adding this mostly to save myself from causing a lost session for a club, and avoid heavy equipment on track to pull me out of a gravel trap.

You are lucky to be offered that option. No track time is allowed without a tow hook of some kind. So normally the 2G has nothing ao would never be allowed. Weird as it as i thought all cars produced required one for production reasons wether it be bonding into the body kr a screw in! But nah we got nothing .

Having one and not needing it is the best way vs neering it and them causing damage to your car.

 

[We're on Boost]

to pull me out of a gravel trap.

Those damn gravel traps. When I was a lot younger I thought I would like to try some road racing. I did a ride-along at the Walter Mitty Challenge one year and that was super fun. Then at some point they started using gravel traps, and then they started using those damn washboard curbs. Yeesh. But club track days, or being able to get onto a track when there is basically nobody else there like you did in your videos (how the heck did you do that anyway!) I guess that could still be a way that I'd enjoy if I wasn't worried about breaking my car!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Ok thanks for the info.
I'm not actually needing to meet the regulations of any race org because I'm not planning on racing.
But I do need to think about how to do a decent job of it, because pulling the car up onto a flatbed - that takes a lot of pull force, and my car has a locked center diff which fights motion whenever the steering is not perfectly straight ahead.

So far, I've always had the car pulled from the front, and I've been using the factory tie-down bracket for that, and that is strong.
But I want to rig something for the rear. So all this discussion is pretty helpful.

I have pulled my car many times with one or both my wires and it takes it well. Its fed into 1 bolt but through a fixture thats actually supported by 2 bolts so spreads the pulling load more evenly..

I go through my bumper as its direct access to the rails but not everyone wants to do that and Brian and his brother did one that comes through the foglight port which is neat and compact. So thats an option to look at if you wanted something more bolt on and less cutting

 

[Justin DuBois]

But club track days, or being able to get onto a track when there is basically nobody else there like you did in your videos (how the heck did you do that anyway!) I guess that could still be a way that I'd enjoy if I wasn't worried about breaking my car!

You need a couple things to do what I did.
1. A club member willing to host your access.
2. The right time of year where the track is basically unused.

If you are going with a club hosted event, you need to follow the club rules.

 

[Justin DuBois]

3. An insane amount of luck

Its California SMOG check season. I debated holding off on the switch to E85 until after the test. I decided to try and bring the tune into spec with E85 - on MAF. If I can't make it run like a street car, I'll have to switch back for this.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Most i have seen or even had previously were 12mm holes. Oem tow eyelets are m14-18 depending on manufactuer so about middle ground is strong for the holt then the rest is uoto the buckle but if free moving loads ideal all the time vs pulling the strap sideways if needed

The G-Force buckel dimensions here:
Hole- 14.28mm

Thickness- 5.17mm

I needed to add a tiny bit more on to the threaded standoff - so I located a 3/8” ID seamless steel sleeve:

Chopped a bit more than a washer thickness, and sanded it down, then opened up the washer to fit over it.

It’s basically a home grown shoulder washer.

This lets me torque the bolt down tight and the buckle will pivot.

 

[We're on Boost]

Hole- 14.28mm

Good thanks. That's what I've seen on most of the straps that give a diameter number.

so I located a 3/8” ID seamless steel sleeve - Chopped a bit more than a washer thickness, and sanded it down, then opened up the washer to fit over it.

Nice rigging! That's the kind of stuff I like to do.
I guess then that the bolt there is a 3/8" or 10mm bolt?

 

[Justin DuBois]

3/8 - 16 Grade 8

 

[Stapl3]

3. An insane amount of luck

Its California SMOG check season. I debated holding off on the switch to E85 until after the test. I decided to try and bring the tune into spec with E85 - on MAF. If I can't make it run like a street car, I'll have to switch back for this.

It's only a global fuel % change.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I've made my way through most all the improvements I wanted after digesting the track day results. This weekend I'm going to see if I can get at this work:

Change to iridium plugs - gapped to 0.20-0.25 - (fire it over and confirm it starts)
Finish purging as much old fuel from the tank as I can
Fill with E85 and enter a global fuel offset.
Fire it over and dial in global fuel.

 

[We're on Boost]

Change to iridium plugs - gapped to 0.20-0.25 - (fire it over and confirm it starts)

Thought you were talking mm there for about a millisecond but I think you mean .020 - .025 inches. I would even say .020 - .022 inches, especially in your warmer climate. Be sure you don't put any force on the center electrode while re-gapping, basically just don't touch it with any tool (I'm sure you know that already, just saying for anybody else reading).
Anyway, my car with those plugs runs fine with .017" gaps and has had as low as .010" still ok, I could barely tell the difference with cold starts (but that was on E60).
Looking forward to your E85 observations.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Change to iridium plugs - gapped to 0.20-0.25

What’s your reasons behind this? Sorry if you said above I didn’t remember seeing it though.

Just curious as I run the copper plugs and I see most running them also. I’m switching to E85 as well soon didn’t know if they were related.

-Daniel

 

[Justin DuBois]

First pull on 100% E85. No knock so I just stayed in it till the shift light came on.

And with no other changes, it is reaching full timing, no knock, and 386HP at the wheel is more than I have recorded - ever.

Thought you were talking mm there for about a millisecond but I think you mean .020 - .025 inches. I would even say .020 - .022 inches, especially in your warmer climate. Be sure you don't put any force on the center electrode while re-gapping, basically just don't touch it with any tool (I'm sure you know that already, just saying for anybody else reading).
Anyway, my car with those plugs runs fine with .017" gaps and has had as low as .010" still ok, I could barely tell the difference with cold starts (but that was on E60).
Looking forward to your E85 observations.

The (authentic) NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.020 inches is what John recommends, and runs in all his Turbo E85 cars. The narrow gap is to assist with cold start. Be careful where you source plugs these days. Apparently there are fake plugs? Had no idea.

What’s your reasons behind this? Sorry if you said above I didn’t remember seeing it though.

Just curious as I run the copper plugs and I see most running them also. I’m switching to E85 as well soon didn’t know if they were related.

-Daniel

Copper plugs are probably fine - they certainly will work. I think the Iridium will last longer running a tight gap.

Also note - low boost setting was in use when I hit 386hp.

I think 400 is closer than ever