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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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And with no other changes, it is reaching full timing, no knock, and 386HP at the wheel is more than I have recorded - ever.
Looks really good, and the airflow I see hit 38 lb/min so the ~380 hp is pretty realistic.

The (authentic) NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.020 inches is what John recommends, and runs in all his Turbo E85 cars.
Sounds good! 0.020" is also what Lucas told me when we talked about it. But when I took the plugs out later for a look, I found out that his guys had gapped them to a lot less than 0.020" and they weren't even all at the same gap! I never asked them about it. So to this day I don't know if they had an actual reason for it, like maybe to run high boost with the stock ignition system, or what. I'll probably never run more than 30 or 31 psi of boost so I might never know.
 
To catch you all up - parts arrived!
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Installed - lets me finish up the fuel filter replacement, and put the battery back in.

So I can turn on the car and check the new backup camera mount - now inside the bumper.
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To drain the AWD fuel tank, I cycled back and forth between running a hose off the regulator exit into a can, and running the pump with the return connected to use the syphon to drain the opposite saddle side.

Now the way is clear to pump in 12gal of E85, and install spark plugs:
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And test drive.

Finally, in prep for SMOG testing, switch to MAF mode, rewire the MAF, install the stock Airbox, and then fire.
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You can run more timing than that.
Baby steps - I'm going to leave the targets and tables the same for now. I'm messing around in MAF mode for SMOG testing. It was cold this AM, and it fired over second attempt cranking. That's not bad. With a little global fuel tweaking for WOT, it should be good enough to test.

I'll make max power after going back to SD mode. Idle was smoother on SD than MAF with E85. I'll see how it feels after its all dialed in.

For the flow benefit of a K&N filter, you lose some performance pulling heated air from the engine bay. The stock airbox is a cold air intake from the fender - a design I would like to improve on.
 
I can see wanting it a little leaner above 2000 Hz. Hence the -2.3 there.
I don't know that you really need it any richer from 500 to 1900 Hz though. Is it just to meet your WB target?
Right - MAF calibration is to align results with the current targets. Targeting a leaner AFR is a Direct Access table adjustment - which is desirable for E85. I'll do that after switching back to SD.
 
Ok, that's a lot of timing LOL. I'll target 21-22 peak. Most I've ever seen someone do is 23, I don't think I've ever seen 24.

It may seem counterintuitive, but if you ran a little more boost it would kick you down a row on the timing table into less timing.
Alternatively, you should just adjust the timing table. You're riding the line of 21/24 on the table and ending up at 22.9 which is probably pretty fun to drive but a hair too aggressive for me personally.
 
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"Hey mama - this that shit that make ya-groove, mama" - "Rockin y'all's boulevard"
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Evo+DSM Timing tables. No No No knock knock. - E85 - Never gonna give- you- up!
 

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It looks like the MAFComp didn't do anything. MAF and MAFComp numbers are the same at 1332 Hz (809.370 sec) and again at 2062 Hz (815.159 sec). You still have a check in the "Disable MAF comp w/SD operation". I guess this tells us that the Disable checkbox works whether you are using SD or not? And that would be why your MAFComp didn't do anything. Is that how it looks to you?
Very nice that there's no knock in these pulls.
 
I will look into the numbers - but the two adjustments I made were to MAF Comp, and global fuel. I think the fuel mix is shifting a bit, as I added another 7 gal of E85 from the pump direct to tank. The ratio of old E25 to E85 is improving.

I see a direct correlation to the MAFComp changes in the next runs wideband results. I did several. The Wideband to AFRest alignment improved with each tweak. This last one is pretty good, and it goes rich in the last 1000 rpm between 6-7k. There isn't much increase in MAFraw hz above 6k. There isn't any tweak I can make that will get it completely aligned - but that's OK. I really didn't need to.

- I'm playing with quotes. " " seems like you can see "shit" - in quotes, but if you can't see this shit, a filter has been applied.
 
You're not going to knock e85 unless something is ridiculously wrong. I've done long WOT pulls on the highway with my A/W pump accidently off resulting in IATs to almost 200* and didn't even know it until I got home and went through the log. No power loss, nothing.

The second log looks awesome. You should be looking at MAFRaw for this. 2000hz is peak VE, so you can look at your adjustment on mafcomp at this value (pulling 1.6%, 2.3%, 3.1% during and after this Hz). So you're globally those percentages rich AND output is still about .3-.4 rich. You have two things here telling you to lower the global fuel.
 
I'll also add, don't make the classical mistake of jumping right to airflow adjustments (mafcomp) for correcting a fuel change (global% and/or basefuel). I know it's ezpz to adjust the mafcomp sliders/sd table but that is the wrong route which everyone takes.

Did the personality of your airflow change by going to e85? No.

Did the personality of your fuel system change by going to e85? Yes.

Do not bleed them together. Do not use airflow changes to correct fuel changes. I'd go max effort to leave mafcomp as you had it and make everything happy by changing only global fuel % paired with a finer adjustment of base fuel pressure via afpr (infinite degree adjustment here by physically turning it a hair of a hair at a time).
 
Now the way is clear to pump in 12gal of E85, and install spark plugs:
Aha! looking back, looks like you updated your shot of the spark plug box to show the plug model number and Stock no. 4055 so now I don't have to ask you which ones you are using. Thanks, and, those are the ones I've been using for 9 years. Doesn't seem that long.
 
WIP

Tow sticker - ordered
E85 sticker - ordered
GoPro 9 - ordered
Silicone Coolant hoses - ordered
Fire 7 tablet for RaceCapture - ordered
MAF for modification - ordered
Intake BOX for modification - looking
TowLoop for Front - looking
Hans device - looking

SMOG prep items:

1. Intake BOX installed
2. MAF mode enabled
3. MAF mode calibrated
To do:
4. Install new CAT
5. Schedule test
 
If you ever ride in cars with stock seatbelts, consider the Simpson Hybrid S. It's the only HNR currently on the market that works with 3-points as well as everything else. We instruct so it's really nice for that (plus I don't have harnesses in my car since I don't have a roll bar/cage).
 
If you ever ride in cars with stock seatbelts, consider the Simpson Hybrid S. It's the only HNR currently on the market that works with 3-points as well as everything else. We instruct so it's really nice for that (plus I don't have harnesses in my car since I don't have a roll bar/cage).
Thank you - good heads up on the Simpson Hybrid S.

I don't have a roll cage - which is why I chose a particular Schroth 4pt harness that is DOT approved with a break away feature in the strap on the inside shoulder.
 
WIP

Tow sticker - ordered
E85 sticker - installed
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GoPro 9 - ordered
Silicone Coolant hoses - arrived
Fire 7 tablet for RaceCapture - arrived
MAF for modification - arrived
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Intake BOX for modification - looking
TowLoop for Front - looking
Hans device - looking

SMOG prep items:

1. Intake BOX installed
2. MAF mode enabled
3. MAF mode calibrated
To do:
4. Install new CAT
5. Schedule test
 
GoPro 9 arrived - covered in fingerprints, whoever boxed this thing up didn’t really take much time to consider the presentation. I’m a little surprised cause it was purchased through Amazon not eBay.

anyWho, unlike the GoPro 10 the GoPro 9 has three remote control options, the oldest one that was removed in the GP10 may work the same as the GoPro 4 remote trigger with RaceCapture.

Why do this you ask?

If you didn’t know already the GoPro 4 has good heat characteristics, whereas the new waterproof versions trap heat and so they don’t work that great in some race cars.

The GoPro 9 supports 4K resolution, else I’d be looking for GoPro 4s all day long.
 
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