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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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Justin DuBois

DSM Wiseman
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Justin DuBois - DSM Profile "ITFLYS"
Side Post: 2G Front Seats
01. Sparco R100 install on Wedge brackets (start)
Side Post: 2Ga - H3 - LED fog light bulbs
02. Yellow H3 fog light bulb install
03. Carpet cleaning
04. Sparco R100 install on Wedge brackets (continues)
05. Sparco R100 install on Wedge brackets (completed)
06. PiLink - Stack Lap Timer (start)
Side Post: GSX - Fuel level sender(s)
07. Fuel supply maintenance
08. PiLink - Stack Lap Timer (CAN bus)
09. PiLink - CarPlay
10. PiLink++
11. PiLink++ Stack Lap Timer (working)
12. SMOG - July 31, 2021
Side Post: Where to get 2G restoration parts - Stock Body
Side Post: Sunroof delete - Roof swap
Side Post: Looking for a quality Body Shop
13. BodyShop (Before) - Aug 28, 2021
14. BodyShop (Headlights found)
15. BodyShop (Trim Parts removed)
Side Post: MB914056 Glass holder (exterior door trim)
16. BodyShop (Bare metal)
Side Post: Anyone got a source for this trim rubber?
Side Post: Cowl Cover parts
17. BodyShop (Cowl cover)
Side Post: Side skirt clips
Side Post: Factory Paint Codes?
18. BodyShop (Paint day)
Side Post: Interior Grey Plastic Paint Color
19. BodyShop (Ashtrey lid)
20. Hood latch spring
21. Body Shop (Hood pins and Fog Lights)
Side Post: Eclipse 2Ga door caps - (not Talon 2Ga door caps)
Side Post: Drip Moulding re-finish / restore
22. Powder coated wiper arms
23. BodyShop (Final) - Jan 31, 2022
Side Post: Steering wheel and Shifter leather
Side Post: MR217022 Sunshade slider (spring loaded clips)
Side Post: Headliner Clips
24. Headliner Installed
25. Re-stud rear wing - wing install (started)
Side Post: CF Hood - radiation barrier - heat blanket.
26. Heat Blanket installed
Side Post: MU470013 Interior Trim Clip
Side Post: Interior screws - with snap on plastic covers
Side Post: Pins in the lift gate to open the cargo cover?
Side Post: Screws with Grey plastic covers for - door panels, center console and rear panels
27. Privacy cover and rear interior (complete)
Side Post: Rear wing - what are poeple using for the gasket between the wing and body?
28. Rear wing gasket - wing install (complete)
29. Hood struts - installed
Side Post: 2G - injector circuit malfunction DTC
Side Post: ABS light
30. ECU - Cyl2 injector circut malfunction
Side Post: No ECU installed - Will somthing die if I turn the Key On?
31. Hood details (Blanket and Washer hose retainers )
32. Kiggly crank sensor and timing belt (start)
33. 1G Throttle Body - Swap in rebuilt assembly
Side Post: 6 Bolt with a 2G motor mount modified for the timing belt tool
34. 6 bolt Timing Belt Cover - modified
35. Hot parts hate me so much
36. Big-SERT head stud repair
Side Post: OEM Heat shield refinishing
37. TD05H teardown (start)
Side Post: PS Pump (Turbo)
Side Post: PS Pump (Turbo) pressure switch wire
38. PS Pump, Alternator, Belts and Pulleys
39. TDO5H teardown (cont.)
Side Post: Washer nozzles (that don’t suck)
40. Washer Nozzles (finish)
41. Hood Latch install (start)
42. Hood Latch install (finish)
Side Post: AEM Adjustable CAM gears
Side Post: Side view mirror plug and nut cover
43. Interior Mirror Trim
44. 1G CAM mod for 2Gb CAS, and Cyl 1 Exaust Valve Seals
45. 2Gb CAS harness in a 2Ga
Side Post: TDO5H Turbo balancing
46. TD05H - build
Side Post: O2 housing for E3 TDO5H in a 2G
47. Downpipe rehab (start)
48. Manifold and TD05H - Installed
49. Downpipe rehab (finish)
50. Stock fan Clearance
51. Test Drive
52. Scope work on sensors (start)
53. Parts manual PDF
54. Muellerized (start)
55. Another TD05H tear down (start)
Side Post: MHI-TD05H-Big16-vs-18g-vs-20g
56. 2Ga Door caps located
57. 4G63 on a wall (start)
58. MHI-TD05H E3 Turbine and 02
59. Muellerized (creative destruction)
Side Post: Power Steering return hose
Side Post: Dash Cluster instruments
Side Post: EVAP, FPS, and EGR bracket bushings
60. 20G turbo build (start)
61. E3-o2 (start)
62. OHLINS assembly (start)
63. E3-o2 (finish)
64. OHLINS assembly (finish)
65. Muellerized... teamwork
66. Don't take my word for it -
67. Clutch replacement (start)
68. Clutch replacement (finish) LOL
69. 1st RaceRender 2-3 full pull
70. SMOG prep
71. SMOG result
72. Fuel Pump upgrade
73. Reset SD - start calibration
Side Post: What causes noisy airflow high in the RPM band to redline?
74. ECU Boost Control setup
75. Replace MAP mid calibration
76. Restart calibration
77. Calibration complete - Goodby 2023
Side Post: EVO8 timing in a 1G
78. Tuning - Timing
79. ProSpark 9100 - plug wires
Side Post: MLS vs Composite Head Gasket
79. Radium ORB fuel rail install
Side Post: Can new OEM 95 pistons be purchased?
Side Post: Smoke on cold start
Side Post: Thinking crazy CAM thoughts
80. Install rebuilt head with EVO springs
Side Post: Cyclone in a 2G
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Background - This was where the DSM saga started for me - living in Southern California

Got a nice mention from Magnus on his page:

And after a time:

Before DSM Tuning build thread, I put a bunch of content on the ECM Link forum:

So, what follows will be a giant leap forward in time to the middle of a restoration project, which until now has focused on the engine, rubber, instrumentation and electronics.
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Factory Seats - Grey Leather, power adjustable drivers seat. showing its age.
Seating height - cushion to headliner:
Driver - 36.25" (Seat cushion adjusted to highest setting)
Seat weight 51.4lb!

Passenger - 37.25"
Seat weight 38.2lb

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Knowing the majority of the issues will be with the fitment of the bracket - I decided not to wait for the seats. I ordered the brackets in advance knowing a perfect fit would be improbable.

Brackets arrived in good shape:

A first look at passenger seat bracket fitment is showing an issue on the front left corner. I have to peal back the carpet to get a better look. I think I need to pull my carpet and shampoo it.

This is the trouble spot - 1st, relocate the factory stereo amp wire harness;

Still not enough clearance. There is a bump in the floor - I need to look closer, but this is probably for exhaust or AWD transfer case clearance under the car.

Looking from below, we see the left edge of the bracket is touching.

I've reached out to WEDGE for next steps to resolve the issue.
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Passenger seat bracket tweaking: (the easy one)
This bracket just needs a slight modification to the left front foot. It was the only corner not flush to the mounts and this bracket is sitting level as is, so no problem to fix this with a couple of well placed whacks with the plastic mallet.


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This is mundane - but ok.
Dry Vacuume the back first, Remove from work surface, sweep away Buton Willow - Riverside infield dirt from 2002.

Flip back over, dry vac carpet, sprinkle on baking soda carpet freshner, then go at it with a wet-vac RugDr from home depo rentals, and a small bottle of OXY carpet shampoo. Then - hours of this:
Passengers side is approved :thumb:

More tab bending work with the mallet, and some minor grinding on the inside edge gives me an air gap between the tunnel and the bracket, and a smoother edge to keep from cutting the carpet. I did a little wire brush were the paint was cracked off, and hit the bare metal on the bracket and on the scratches in the floor pan with some black engine enamel spray paint for good measure.
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Drivers side progress:

This modified fitment is ready to send back to Wedge. What you see has no clearance, and profiles the center tunnel. If I had a die grinder or more substantial metal shaping tools, I would have taken off another 1/4". All the corners sit flush and the bracket is level to the car. This work was with a hand held jigsaw, and a hand file.


I went back and lifted the carpet for this shot. I cleaned up the pan with a quick vac and windex with paper towel. I cleaned up the Wideband O2 and rear O2 routing. The plug on the ZT-3 Wide band harness will fit through a hole in the rear O2 rubber grommet. I used a regular paper hole punch to make a clean cut, and it was a good match for the size split loom in this case.

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H-A-P-P-Y ... H-A-P-P-Y
Seats arrive early!
R100's are made in China (BTW) which explains the insane low list price - $330ea Sparktecmotors charged me less and free shipping.

This e-bay distributor was for REAL - < sparktecmotors >
Note: The website for the same was way out of date - and did not show the same inventory as what e-bay was showing.

However - I was lucky this time. The distributor did not add any additional packaging to the product. The Sparco box barely protected the seats - and I mean BARELY. If the handling had not gone as well, these would have been ruined. The cardboard on the back had warn through in one spot, clear through the bubble wrap inside exposing the seat fabric to abrasion. THANKFULLY the seat held up. The box was generally one strip of tape away from disaster. So - be warned. My gamble - not wanting to wait 12 weeks, or pay for shipping, worked out this time.

Here are some pics. I think this color is perfect for a grey interior - black car.

Just a mock up - I don't have all the parts to finish.
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Understandable, I do the same. But, if you decide to make some room with those seats, please let me know!! Depends on the part. Usually every one goes nuts for the black trim interior stuff. But I like my gray. Awesome car, by the way.
Sparco hardware and one set of sliders arrived!

Sliders bolt on to the seat, no issue.
Setting the seat in place I see 4 new holes in the WEDGE base will be needed. The question of location is the crux of this effort. I’m going to try for closest to center console, while also sliding un-obstructed.

The limiting factor on pushing the slider up close to the center console are the bolts that attach the bracket to the car, and the seatbelt mount clearance to the seat. The seatbelt mount I will tweak so the seat does not get torn up with use.

Seat back height appears good for the passenger at first glance, Not close to the headliner, and seat base height seems in the ballpark good. The pleasant surprise is the holes on the sliders for mounting to the bracket align well with the bracket front to back at about 12.5” apart. This should avoid the need to drill holes into the sliders.
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Ah, found it. The Sparco Seat Dimension Guide has the following specs:

Bottom Mount = 271x345(mm) calculated - 10.67" x 13.58"
Height = 930(mm) 36.61"

As has been mentioned, Sparco on a Wedge - drilling will be necessary - but which bolt pattern would you get from Wedge? Does it even matter if you have to drill anyway?

Ok - Judd at WEDGE dropped this tid-bit of detail.
Corbeau is the closest configuration to Sparco for WEDGE bracket - EXCEPT - the location you want to drill for the Sparco slider will be right where the outside rear chassis mount tab is welded on, making it difficult. When ordering their bracket, you can request a Sparco slider bolt pattern for an additional $15 adjustment. (wish I had known that)

Having trouble locating high strength 11mm x 1.25 bolts to mount your seat belt hardware?
Yeah me too.

I did figure out that 7/16 - 20 is what came out of the factory seat. My local OSH had 3/4" Grade 8 bolts. I wanted to use a shorter bolt than what you find in your factory seat (for clearance) and I also picked up some nice washers to go with. Look for 6 radial lines on the head of the bolt indicating its strength.

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WEDGE delivered! - Presenting the fresh from the powder coaters, reworked '95 GSX drivers side seat bracket.
They accommodated everything I asked for. If I hand known to ask for Sparco, it would have been even less work left to go - but let the fitment begin:

Workable. very workable. I set it in place and it bolted in. I then took a few well placed whacks at the tab and rail to get the mounts to bolt down un-stressed.

I don't know how I've managed to go so long without one if these: Thank you local Harbor Freight.

And it really helped. Tweaking is needed to make these brackets work with Sparco Sliders, which are farther apart than Corbeau, and overlapping some welds. I need every millimeter of space behind the right rear tab for the bracket hardware to sit flush. Perhaps in the future I'll have a washer welded onto the rear mount where I would prefer to have more material around the bolt.

What you see here is the final assembly making one hole at a time, starting with the most difficult one first.

Note - the left and right track is offset by one click - on purpose - to get the best option for mounting.
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OMG, I hate you factory interior designer who expertly designed an asymmetrical driver seat that quickly bolts down with 4 accessible bolts.

Cause, trying to line up center on the wheel with a symmetrical drivers seat is kicking my a$$

but only for a moment. I have ideas.

i want to change this

and this

and here is all there is that I can have, towards lining up on wheel center. And I shall have it.
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