I need advice for my harmonic damper

[grudgedoutgsxr]

Hey guys i am back on here again! My outer ring on my crank pulley came off. i was like WTF. After doing some research I came across people saying its the Harmonic Balancer, but I just want to make sure. I need to have my DSm running before college. Oh yeah its a 2g Spyder turbo.

 

[iceman510]

No real advice needed. It has failed, as they do from either time or mileage. You simply need to replace it.

It is actually just called the crankshaft pulley. MD377604.

 

[kchaazz]

^^Yes, and do not get one of the parts store parts for this, they fail within a few weeks, OEM is the only one that holds up, other than the Fluid damper.

 

[FLASH1970]

Do not get an aluminum one pice pulley. The OEM part actually dampens vibration from the crank which is why the rubber part is in the middle of it. An aluminum one offers no dampening. Some people have no troubles using them, others break their crank. Just like brake pads and tires, the Harmonic Dampener/Crank Pulley wears out and needs replacing from time to time.

I actually had mine let go 80 miles from home. Cab ride to the dealer, 180 something for the part, cab ride back, 30 minutes to replace the part and I was on my way. It was an expensive day but at least I didn't need a tow which would have been more. It pays to carry tools with you.

 

[11Banger]

AGREE^^^^ Get a OEM unit. DO NOT get a aluminum one. It may look cooler, but the benefits end there & the CON's start rolling up fast.

 

[evobullit2017]

i just got a fludampr alot of people use them if their motor is built

 

[grudgedoutgsxr]

Ok thanks guys do any of you know where i can get an new Oem one for cheap.

 

[FLASH1970]

new Oem one for cheap.

New OEM isn't cheap. But try a vendor on here. JNZ Tuning or Extreme PSI I'm sure carries them. Or get a used one from a junkyard or from someone parting out their car.

 

[TSiAWD666]

Getting a used one is just asking for it to break quickly again.

When I got a new oem one it was around $80-90 if I recall correctly. Not sure what the prices are now. I have a Fluidampr on my current engine though and the piece of mind of never having to worry about the stupid pulley separating is nice. If you're planning on staying with your car for a long time you might want to consider one. To me the extra price is worth not having to deal with a broken car in the future.

 

[pindlepiper]

I just bought an OEM for my build and I believe it was $127.xx from mitsparts.com.

 

[grudgedoutgsxr]

Yeah im about to graduate High School so i need my prices pretty low . But I'm building her up! I.ll post pictures in about a week, i need my scabs to heal from my motorcycle accident .

 

[keston95GS-T]

I used a DORMAN brand crankshaft pulley on my 95 GS-T with no problems. I was also strapped for cash at the time, . Cost me about $60.00

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I used a DORMAN brand crankshaft pulley on my 95 GS-T with no problems. I was also strapped for cash at the time, . Cost me about $60.00

^^^ Me too, it's been on there for over a year, and it's still just fine.

 

[BogusSVO]

It is hit or miss with the dorman balancers, They can last for years, or fail in a few weeks, or fail in as little as 3 miles.

A New OE from a mitsu Dealer, or dealer parts supplier is about $170.

OP, you are a 97NT w/turbo, so you should have a 420a engine?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

N/T GS Spyder W/ turbo, so it would be a SOHC 2.4L no?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

N/T GS Spyder W/ turbo, so it would be a SOHC 2.4L no?

Yes, correct.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

OP, you are a 97NT w/turbo, so you should have a 420a engine?

No, convertibles only came with 4g63t or 4g64 n/a.

 

[kchaazz]

I had two Dormans fail within a month- thank God for the lifetime warranty, eh?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I had two Dormans fail within a month- thank God for the lifetime warranty, eh?

I've been keeping a close eye on mine, and yeah, I usually stay away from Doorman stuff for my customers cars. They're like a box of chocolates.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I've been keeping a close eye on mine, and yeah, I usually stay away from Doorman stuff for my customers cars. They're like a box of chocolates.

Never know watcha gonna get

 

[98Spyder_GS]

Can you guys rate the pulleys from 1 - 5 or whatever so we, in the future, will know which is best to get? I'm doing my timing belt/water pump really soon and would like to know if i should change that piece out too and with which pulley you guys recommend and why.


As previously posted, why is the pulley that started with the F worry-free? What makes it better than OEM and prices reasonable? Thanks guys!

 

[WES_393]

The OEM harmonic balancer is a two-peice construction. You have an outer "ring" (the part that drives the belts) attached to the inner hub by a thin strip of rubber. The rubber strip will eventually dry out, crack, and allow the outer ring to separate from the hub.

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The Fluidampr pulley is (for the most part) a single-peice unit. It doesn't have the outer ring/center hub that are know to separate. Rather than a rubber band it uses a weight suspended in Silicone fluid to dampen torsional vibrations, hence the name Fluidampr.

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If your current stock balancer isn't showing signs of separation (cracks, tears, squeaks, etc), then there's no real need to replace it. If you have the cash for a Fluidampr, by all means go for it. But the stock pulley (in good shape) is still effective and perfectly fine to use. Mitsu is of course the best brand for anything stock, but some have had luck with over the counter replacement parts. What you don't want to use is an aftermarket "performance pulley" like this:

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They don't absorb torsional vibrations, will accelerate engine wear, and eventually lead internal damage. So if you were to plot these options on a 1-5 scale with 5 being the best:

5- Fluimdapr
4- Stock pulley in good shape
3- OEM replacement
2- Performance Pulley
1- A rock with a hole drilled through it