how to replace oil pan

[yeiko]

i know this question has beens asked alot but i cant fnd a good forum about it.. i was wondering if anyone can explain how to change oil pan gasket step by step


I have a 1997 talon awd tsi

 

[talon1616]

You have to drop the oil pan. After you take all oil out. And then take old gasket off. Clean the areas were the gasket is going to lay. Make sure its all dryed off and cleaned. You might want to go over it with 180 sand paper. You dont have to but i do to make sure everythings off. Then put on gaskets and put pan back on. good luck i hope that helped

 

[talonalex92]

0. Drain oil.
1. Remove T case
2. Remove center member.
3. Remove drivers axle bracket from block.
4. Remove oil pan bolts.
5. Clean surface. Wash, rinse, repeat.

 

[yeiko]

How do yu remove the transfer case

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Remove the 4 (or 5? Been too long to recall) bolts holding it in place and GENTLY lower it from the car. Make sure your head isn't underneath it. You don't have to remove the drive-line.

If it doesn't pop out, try rotating the driveline by hand left and right while gently prying on it. Sometimes it slips right off, sometimes it's hard. Also make sure the car is secured and out of gear. If the car is in gear and the rear wheels are not lifted then it will bind the transmission and keep the T-Case locked in place.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Nobody mentioned the exhaust pipe, and whatever you do, don't put a gasket in there.

 

[KKneipper]

Also a good idea to mark your bolts as you take them out so they can be put back in the original place. Shouldn't make a difference which bolts go where, but then again.... These are DSM's....

 

[yeiko]

Thanks everyone for the info this weekend will be fun.

 

[gusu]

I learned this lesson from a Honda driving coworker.

Do not replace and weld the oil pan in place for extra insurance it wont leak... while oil is still in it...... yeah....

 

[Tanro]

What ever you do ignore the colt guy. You want a gasket. Just make sure you get 1-2 cans of brake cleaner, 2-3 large scotch brite pads, wire brush or wire wheel, and some shop towels.

Clean both sides of the gasket surface very thoroughly with the brake cleaner and other products. Remove any traces of dirt, oil, and previous gasket material.

If you clean it the gasket surface the cork gasket is far superior to RTV sealant, and much easier to clean the next time the gasket has to be done.

 

[Artago]

I just dropped my oil pan and re-installed it 4 times in the past week. (Don't ask why )

So here goes:

1. Drain oil (duh)
2. Remove down pipe
3. Remove t-case (5 x 17mm bolts)
4. Unbolt driver side axle (2 x 14mm bolts)
5. Remove scatter shield (next to the clutch)(2 x 1mm + 1 x 12mm bolts)
6. Remove turbo oil return
7. Unbolt pan (18 or 19 x 10mm bolts) and drop (it will snag on the driver side axle, you'll have to push the axle back towards the rear of the car)

Install in reverse order.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[KKneipper]

I wouldn't weld the oil pan anyway. What happens if you hit something and punch a hole in your pan? I can't imagine breaking through welds would be fun.....

 

[Artago]

Nobody mentioned the exhaust pipe, and whatever you do, don't put a gasket in there.

Why not? Never hear of not using a down pipe gasket... please explain.

I wouldn't weld the oil pan anyway. What happens if you hit something and punch a hole in your pan? I can't imagine breaking through welds would be fun.....

Welding your pan is fine. Welds are strong.

 

[babyviper]

Make sure the shortest bolts are around the timing belt side for the oil pan ! if to long it can rub the timing belt . just keep them in order.....

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Make sure the shortest bolts are around the timing belt side for the oil pan ! if to long it can rub the timing belt . just keep them in order.....

I was just about to bring this up as I've woken up a bit.

There are a couple of bolts that are shorter than the rest right underneath where the Timing belt is. If you use the wrong length bolt in those 2 places, you WILL cut a deep groove into your timing belt.

Do NOT make this mistake. I learned the hard-way...

 

[Artago]

^^ Buying new bolts is also a good idea. The old ones can stretch if they're been over used. (like mine, on and off at least 10 times)

M6 x 12.0mm x 1.00mm I believe.

 

[KKneipper]

Welding your pan is fine. Welds are strong.

That's what I'm emphasizing... welds are tough. With the luck that I have, I would weld my pan on, and then hit a high speed bump and punch a hole in it. Then I would have to take all that time getting the welds off.

Sandpaper, wire brush, brake cleaner, a razor blade and RTV work just fine for me. But I don't spend all day rallying my DD... So I guess I don't need welds anyway.

If your oil pressure is causing the leak, then I'm guessing you would be having other issues that need to be addressed. If it's just because the gasket is old, then don't worry about welding it... go with the RTV and a new gasket.

 

[ReYnd]

I won't tell you what to do, but at least the 1Gs don't actually have an oil pan gasket. Gray RTV sealant is used, even from the factory. Some nub stuck my pan on with red RTV AND one of those cork gaskets. Leak-freakin'-city.

Be sure to reinstall the two shorter bolts on the timing belt size as mentioned before, or you'll cut a deep groove in the belt.

And KKneipper, it's past your bedtime! Obviously he meant weld the oil pan to repair it, not weld it to the block!

But yes, also a very bad idea to weld it while it's still on the car, let alone with oil still in it! That is, unless you like shrapnel and third degree burns.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Why not? Never hear of not using a down pipe gasket... please explain.



Welding your pan is fine. Welds are strong.

I meant don't put a gasket on the oil pan. It doesn't come with one from the factory, and putting one in is asking for leaks. Everyone knows that besides that Tanro guy, he's a total Noob.

Ps. Babyviper is absolutely right. I can't believe nobody mentioned this sooner:
"Make sure the shortest bolts are around the timing belt side for the oil pan ! if to long it can rub the timing belt . just keep them in order..... "

BTW, what's all this talk about welding the oil pan? Is there a hole in the pan? It sounds like some people on here are under the impression you would weld the pan to the block WTF instead of resealing it.

Ps. Ps. Use a razor blade to scrape the surfaces clean, then wipe with brake clean and paper towels. Things to avoid: Spinny gritty discs, spinny wire wheels, sandpaper, anything that may leave/fling foreign objects such as grit or wire bristles into your motor...

What ever you do ignore the colt guy. You want a gasket. Just make sure you get 1-2 cans of brake cleaner, 2-3 large scotch brite pads, wire brush or wire wheel, and some shop towels.

Clean both sides of the gasket surface very thoroughly with the brake cleaner and other products. Remove any traces of dirt, oil, and previous gasket material.

If you clean it the gasket surface the cork gasket is far superior to RTV sealant, and much easier to clean the next time the gasket has to be done.

Ps. Ps. Ps. Did I mention that I majored in auto tech in college, and I've been doing this crap professionally every F-ing day since 1988?

So probably before Tanro was an embryo.

 

[99gst_racer]

That's what I'm emphasizing... welds are tough. With the luck that I have, I would weld my pan on, and then hit a high speed bump and punch a hole in it. Then I would have to take all that time getting the welds off.

They're referring to welding fittings to the pan, not welding the pan to the block.

What ever you do ignore the colt guy. You want a gasket. Just make sure you get 1-2 cans of brake cleaner, 2-3 large scotch brite pads, wire brush or wire wheel, and some shop towels.

Clean both sides of the gasket surface very thoroughly with the brake cleaner and other products. Remove any traces of dirt, oil, and previous gasket material.

If you clean it the gasket surface the cork gasket is far superior to RTV sealant, and much easier to clean the next time the gasket has to be done.

2G's never use an oil pan gasket. Just a bead of silver RTV is all you need to keep it sealed.

 

[KKneipper]

Ah... that makes a lot of sense. He asked about replacing the gasket, and someone said weld it... I was thinking

And yes, I suppose it was way past my bedtime. ####ing insomnia keeps me up and Tuners is the best way for me to pass the time 'til the sandman visits again.

 

[wranglerunner22]

Im glad I read all the way to the bottem.. As soon as I saw somone say "weld it" and everyone was agreeing, I was thinking WTF? But now it all makes since

Everything looks like a good idea to me

 

[99gst_racer]

Yeah, I sure hope nobody in their right mind would ever think welding the pan to the block is a good idea.

 

[rommel rojasgsx]

who in their right mind would weld an oil pan. that be like welding a valve cover. and 1gs dont need or use an oil pan gasket either. the 2 short bolts, one go to the right of crank pulley and the next hole working towards back of car.

 

[dsm8883]

What ever you do ignore the colt guy. You want a gasket. Just make sure you get 1-2 cans of brake cleaner, 2-3 large scotch brite pads, wire brush or wire wheel, and some shop towels.

Clean both sides of the gasket surface very thoroughly with the brake cleaner and other products. Remove any traces of dirt, oil, and previous gasket material.

If you clean it the gasket surface the cork gasket is far superior to RTV sealant, and much easier to clean the next time the gasket has to be done.

Yeah this guy knows his sh!t!!!!! cork gaskets are 80's junk and dsm's (DO NOT use oil pan gaskets. rtv is all u need. I love noooooobs talking sh!t about proven members. When you can fix a sandwich you can talk shit about a member----- noob!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!