2G FP green installation

[enriquez2000]

did you only add the spring or do the porting as well?

My experience.... ive done just the porting and had 90psi cold and 20ish psi warm...

Recently did just the spring with no porting and have 92 psi cold and 23 hot

Either one gets you to a safe pressure.. im not sure id want to do both as I dont like pressure below 20 at idle(may not do that but )

 

[Bedicine]

the porting scares me a bit. might just try the spring. Do i need the 1.8 stub shaft as well?

 

[CrackedDSM]

I am just doing the spring for the record. I think both is overkill.

 

[Bedicine]

I am just doing the spring for the record. I think both is overkill.

going to order the spring now.

 

[enriquez2000]

Spring was fine... porting was fine... pick what you are comfy with.

I have the stub shaft... some say to use a race shaft(stock one that has been turned down)

 

[DSMPT]

did you only add the spring or do the porting as well?

Found this, post #4. Also another option

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/quick-oil-pressure-question.532564/#post-153788817

Adding washer and changing the spring would work the same.
My experience, I don't port on my builds but I have had no issue with oil pressure just by adding washer even the engine with balance shafts/oil squirters deleted.
Keep in mind that the oil pressure you are seeing in the gauge would also depend on many factors, oil temp/type, bearing clearance, oil pump condition, oil filter quality, crank case pressure etc. Each has different case. So you should decide which way you go when you personally feel the need for lowing the oil pressure. Especially porting OFH, don't do that from the beginning. You even don't know if you need to or not. This is one of the reason why I don't port and use washer instead especially at the first startup.
I recommend to start from the stock, no changing spring, no adding washer. If you actually see the pressure needs to be lowed, change the spring or add washers. And then see how it would be. If those are not enough, then go with porting.

 

[Bedicine]

Adding washer and changing the spring would work the same.
My experience, I don't port on my builds but I have had no issue with oil pressure just by adding washer even the engine with balance shafts/oil squirters deleted.
Keep in mind that the oil pressure you are seeing in the gauge would also depend on many factors, oil temp/type, bearing clearance, oil pump condition, oil filter quality, crank case pressure etc. Each has different case. So you should decide which way you go when you personally feel the need for lowing the oil pressure. Especially porting OFH, don't do that from the beginning. You even don't know if you need to or not. This is one of the reason why I don't port and use washer instead especially at the first startup.
I recommend to start from the stock, no changing spring, no adding washer. If you actually see the pressure needs to be lowed, change the spring or add washers. And then see how it would be. If those are not enough, then go with porting.

It’s good advice. If you were to change the spring down the road could this be an easy change when you change your oil or would there be more involved at that point

For those running a 7 bolt are these the two locations on the thermostat and water pipe you need to close off? Was thinking of getting some 6an male weld on bungs and capping them off

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[DSMPT]

For those running a 7 bolt are these the two locations on the thermostat and water pipe you need to close off? Was thinking of getting some 6an male weld on bungs and capping them off

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Those are the coolant feed and return for factory water-cooled oil cooler. You have a air-cooled oil cooler w/ EVO OFH correct? If so, yes you can block off those ports unless you use for something else.

 

[Bedicine]

i was actually watching the build video that Throtl put together and they run an evo3 ofh, looks like the water pipe was welded closed where the one extra nipple is. The thermostat housing wasnt welded and looks like they have that feeding the turbo instead of the block for coolant. Anyone else tried this method, one less hole to weld.

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Also do you guys recommend permatex thread sealant or RTV silicone on the threads where the old balance shaft pulley was and behind the pulley that feeds into the oil chamber?

 

[19Eclipse90]

That should be fine for the turbo coolant feed. No, I haven’t done it, personally, but a 1G feeds from the thermostat housing so I can’t imagine why a 2G couldn’t.

For the balance shaft pulley hole, just Permatex ought to do it. That hole does not go into an oil chamber but it does have oil passages on both sides of it. If it leaks with Permatex, it’s not because Permatex was used, it’s because the gasket lost its seal between the front case and the block and it’s leaking in from one of those passages. That’s my perspective on the matter.

 

[jukematt]

I skimmed through here and no one mentioned what the 1G oil feed line is that he got for his turbo, just someone asking why he got it with a 2G.

The 1Gs are fed oil to the turbo from the head at the factory. That 1G line can also be used to run oil from the head on a 2G. That's what I did when I swapped from the stock T25 to a 16G. You can see the line running off the front of the head in my profile. If Mitsubishi runs it from there on all of their Mitsubishi-built turbos at the factory, and the only one that isn't is built by Garrett (T25), then to me it's a no brainer to switch to the head when swapping to one of those. Granted, the Green is an upgrade over factory, but I'd still feed from the head.

I could be wrong but I believe it's the ball bearing turbos that should be fed from the OFH (with a restrictor).

Also, I would say you should always run coolant through the turbo if it has lines for it. Some say inconvenient, but how often do you swap turbos? The advantage is to help slowly cool the turbo when you shut off the car. I like my turbo timer but without coolant, a turbo timer is a MUST from everything I've read to avoid cooking the oil in the turbo.

Good luck with the install!

Oh, I also saw some people talk about porting their OFH and adding the spring. So prior to my engine bending some valves (story in my profile), I had a Prosport Performance Series OP gauge that went to 100 PSI. On cold starts, with balance shafts, my car would bury that needle. So when I got my new engine (without balance shafts), I ported my OFH (short story, I had to buy another because I ported the original too much) and got a Prosport Premium Series Peak/Warning that goes up to 150 PSI so I could actually see the pressure if it was still higher than 100. Now on cold starts, I'm around 60 and ~20ish when warm.