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2G FP green installation

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Bedicine

Proven Member
539
187
Jan 3, 2022
Toronto, ON, Canada
Hello
Looking for some guidance on a few items.

I purchased an FP green along with the RTM oil return line and the FP 1g oil feed line. I’m running an evo 3 oil filter housing on a 2g motor. Would anyone be able to point me I. The direction of where each feed goes on the turbo, everything I’ve found seems to be very dated or for the 6 bolt.

Picture 3 I’m assuming is the return line

Thank you

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You have a head feed line (1G) for a motor that fed its turbo from the OFH (2G)
You'll either need an OFH feed line and potentially a restrictor (consult the FP Green oiling requirements -- I haven't) or you have to tap the head.

Q: why'd you buy the 1G feed line?
 
Yes, picture number #3 is the oil return. 180 degrees opposite of the return is the oil feed. So looking at the turbo the oil comes on and makes a straight line through the turbo.

I suggest ditching the 1g line and buy the one you actually need to feed from the ofh. Running coolant through turbos is overrated in my opinion but you can make your own decision on that.

I personally don’t run a restrictor but have done my part to relieve the high oil pressure from the BSE.

-Daniel
 
I’ve heard a lot of people saying to ditch the coolant line. Do I just plug it then?

Here’s the oil filter housing I’m using with where the connection would be

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For the coolant fittings, I tapped the one on the block to 3/8 npt and put a flush mount allenhead like the OFH has. You can also remove the piece for the banjo fitting and then just use an old 7 bolt oil pan drain bolt.

The cons of the oil pan bolt is it sticks out further past the block than my first method that I did. I wanted all the clearance for the compressor housing.

The second one I weld shut off the car before powder coating along with the other one for the water to OFH coolant. You can use a cap just make sure it’s rated for coolant though not just a vacuum cap.

I feed mine from the bottom 3/8 outlet in the E3 OFH. From my understanding that is clean post filter oil and the other one is pre filter.
 
While I admit the coolant lines for the turbo are annoying, I'd continue to run it. Especially if you bought the green new from FP -- check with them on their warranty requirements.
It doesn't hurt to run it, just inconvenient whenever you have to pull the snail. It's not like you're going to develop a sudden leak at the crush washers. Not if you did it right (now watch me develop a leak in a couple months LOL)
 
Just for informational purposes (thanks to Spooligan for the photo from HERE)
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FP's long-term stance has been that if there are provisions for coolant on the turbo, you should run it. Personally, the only coolant lines I eliminate by default on the car are FIAV & the oil cooler because both are trash 🤣

FP's documentation should tell you about restrictor usage- it's been a long while but I'm pretty sure you don't want or need a restrictor on a JB turbo, as the bearings love oil. If your engine oil pressure is high enough to cause problems with a JB turbo, I'd be concerned about the pressure doing bad things in the motor as well.
 
Just for informational purposes (thanks to Spooligan for the photo from HERE)
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Do I have my pressure sender in the wrong location? I thought with these housings you could only run the option of having the pressure light or gauge on unless you tapped out another hole for the 7 bolt?

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FP's long-term stance has been that if there are provisions for coolant on the turbo, you should run it. Personally, the only coolant lines I eliminate by default on the car are FIAV & the oil cooler because both are trash 🤣

FP's documentation should tell you about restrictor usage- it's been a long while but I'm pretty sure you don't want or need a restrictor on a JB turbo, as the bearings love oil. If your engine oil pressure is high enough to cause problems with a JB turbo, I'd be concerned about the pressure doing bad things in the motor as well.
I have no objections to running the coolant, should I use the same route that the factory turbo does to accomplish it?
 
Do I have my pressure sender in the wrong location? I thought with these housings you could only run the option of having the pressure light or gauge on unless you tapped out another hole for the 7 bolt?

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Yes. It goes in the bottom hole and hangs down.
Here is a stock 1990 OFH picture.
I also use the FACTORY sealing washers. Our vendors stock them and you can find them on other sites also.
Just what I use. I hate leaks or seepage.
I am pointing at the FILTERED/TURBO FEED port so you don't run unfiltered oil to the turbo if you feed from the OFH.
Another tip, apply some heat to the hex plugs before trying to remove them so the sealant softens. :thumb:

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thats great, that makes it alot clearer. i will have to order the oil pressure switch, will be nice to be able to run that with the gauge, didn't think i would have that option.

will post some photos tomorrow once i get some items moved around and the oil line on along with the coolant connections
 
Wasn’t the high oil pressure caused because oil squirters and balance shafts were both removed not just the one? Do you have a photo of your assembly all completed and connected?
 
You still block off oil passages when doing a BSE. I assembled mine first just to check what the actual pressure was. Ended up pulling the housing and porting after see 100+ psi on cold starts.

Reinstalled and still was a bit higher than my likings and then installed the 1.8 spring. Some people cut the oem one or add washers but I bought the 1.8.

I now have about 75 psi cold start and about 20psi at warm idle and 44-55 psi cruising. At WOT it about maxes the gauge at 100 psi.

I don’t have a picture handy but I have mine setup like the one in the link I posted. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the pre filter 3/8 port also.

-Daniel
 
You still block off oil passages when doing a BSE. I assembled mine first just to check what the actual pressure was. Ended up pulling the housing and porting after see 100+ psi on cold starts.

Reinstalled and still was a bit higher than my likings and then installed the 1.8 spring. Some people cut the oem one or add washers but I bought the 1.8.

I now have about 75 psi cold start and about 20psi at warm idle and 44-55 psi cruising.

I don’t have a picture handy but I have mine setup like the one in the link I posted. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the pre filter 3/8 port also.

-Daniel


Do you remember the part number for the mirage spring? I can't remember it.

Edit: Found it. Here's a link to ExtremePSI if anyone is curious. Also the part number is MD015988

 
Will dig into this tonight to see on my oil filter housing.

What did everyone end up doing with the coolant lines that used to feed the factory oil cooler. I believe there is one off the thermostat and one off the water pipe
 
Reinstalled and still was a bit higher than my likings and then installed the 1.8 spring. Some people cut the oem one or add washers but I bought the 1.8
Everyone has their own ways of doing things but adding washers or cutting springs isn’t mine nor do I recommend it.

-Daniel
 
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