The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

FIC 1120 dial in & tune

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

95GSTowner

15+ Year Contributor
223
9
Apr 19, 2008
Huntersville, North Carolina
I just got a barely used set of FIC 1120s. I installed these along with new seals and a brand new FIC fuel rail. My car was running/idling great prior to install (had stock rail and injectors). Now I'm getting misfire and rough idle. Cell came on stating 0170. In ECMLinkV3 I used the calculator and set global -59.8 and deadtime 330. Any ideas? thanks
 
Tried -61 global and it didn't make a noticeable difference. Car still runs like I have bad plugs. I'm wondering if my fuel pressure changed due to the FIC rail? I'll check it tomorrow along with a Boost leak test to make sure injector seals aren't leaking.
 
What are your AFR's while it's idling? You have ECMLink and have the ability to post a log, a log could tell us a lot more than what you're trying to explain.

Each injector set is different, you could have two sets of FIC 1120 injectors and would still need to tweak globals/deadtimes to get fuel trims to line up. Use ECMLink's calculations to get close, then make your adjustments to get fuel trims/AirflowPerRev lined up at idle...

Those 1120's should have come with a data sheet from FIC, did the seller include it when you bought them?
 
I really appreciate the help! Here is a log. Car died after a few seconds. I had to give it throttle to stay running until it warmed up. I tried global -61 and 330 deadtime.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I checked my Base Fuel Pressure with vacuum off and it's close to 43 psi. Vacuum on and it's about 39 psi. I think it dropped a lil bit after adding the FIC fuel rail. I don't think that would cause it to run this rough. I'll do a boost leak test later to make sure injector seals aren't leaking.
 
i have two sets of 1120cc FIC injectors for my cars.
in your DA tables under InjBatteryAdj
7v - 3180
9v - 2170
12v - 1600
14v - 1320
16v - 1120
19v - 900

also your global should be -62.9 with 43.5psi fuel pressure around 0 for deadtime.

now those are just basic settings.
once i had a tune the injectors were rescaled to 900cc with 43.5psi fuel pressure and -210 deadtime.

in your misc tab, uncheck your airflow smoothing box(i dont think you are running sd, are you?)

i also had to mess with CoolantTempFuelAdj to get cold start to work right.
 
i have two sets of 1120cc FIC injectors for my cars.
in your DA tables under InjBatteryAdj
7v - 3180
9v - 2170
12v - 1600
14v - 1320
16v - 1120
19v - 900

also your global should be -62.9 with 43.5psi fuel pressure around 0 for deadtime.

now those are just basic settings.
once i had a tune the injectors were rescaled to 900cc with 43.5psi fuel pressure and -210 deadtime.

in your misc tab, uncheck your airflow smoothing box(i dont think you are running sd, are you?)

i also had to mess with CoolantTempFuelAdj to get cold start to work right.

Wow thanks for this info! I'm leaving to visit family but when I get home tonight I'll adjust my settings. No I don't have SD yet, running stock 2G MAF
 
Since you don't have a wideband gauge to verify AFR's, what does your vacuum look like at idle compared to what it did before your install? The symptoms you're describing sound like a bad vacuum leak at idle causing the issues you're seeing which would be lean AFR's and low vacuum.

Everyone has their own methods of installing injectors but I've found the best way for me to keep from getting vacuum/boost leaks around the lower seals is to install the seals in the head first smearing a thin layer of gray RTV around them first. Then I let them setup for 30m before I place the injectors in there and gradually torque the fuel rail bolts and seat the injectors.
 
Since you don't have a wideband gauge to verify AFR's, what does your vacuum look like at idle compared to what it did before your install? The symptoms you're describing sound like a bad vacuum leak at idle causing the issues you're seeing which would be lean AFR's and low vacuum.

Everyone has their own methods of installing injectors but I've found the best way for me to keep from getting vacuum/boost leaks around the lower seals is to install the seals in the head first smearing a thin layer of gray RTV around them first. Then I let them setup for 30m before I place the injectors in there and gradually torque the fuel rail bolts and seat the injectors.
Unfortunately my autometer boost gauge doesn't display vacuum but I think ECMlink logged vacuum. Not sure if it's different now. The only thing I unhooked was the fuel rail and injectors so if there is a leak then it pretty much has to be the seals.
 
...ECMLink logged boost, as well as AFR, are estimates and only as accurate as your tune. If your car isn't tuned those numbers might as well not even exist.

You're probably right, if the car ran fine before you did the injectors you probably induced a vacuum leak at the seals. I'd HIGHLY advise that your next two purchases for that car are a boost gauge that reads -20/+30 and a LC1/MTXL wideband. Without those gauges you're guessing, not just troubleshooting problems but tuning as well so it's money well spent.
 
...ECMLink logged boost, as well as AFR, are estimates and only as accurate as your tune. If your car isn't tuned those numbers might as well not even exist.

You're probably right, if the car ran fine before you did the injectors you probably induced a vacuum leak at the seals. I'd HIGHLY advise that your next two purchases for that car are a boost gauge that reads -20/+30 and a LC1/MTXL wideband. Without those gauges you're guessing, not just troubleshooting problems but tuning as well so it's money well spent.
Yeah those 2 items plus SD are on the list to buy next. 600 miles on motor and it hasn't seen over 4 psi. It's not my daily driver. I made sure not to boost it more till I get a wideband. Tonight I'm gonna go ahead and re-install seals via your method and will report back.
 
...ECMLink logged boost, as well as AFR, are estimates and only as accurate as your tune. If your car isn't tuned those numbers might as well not even exist.

You're probably right, if the car ran fine before you did the injectors you probably induced a vacuum leak at the seals. I'd HIGHLY advise that your next two purchases for that car are a boost gauge that reads -20/+30 and a LC1/MTXL wideband. Without those gauges you're guessing, not just troubleshooting problems but tuning as well so it's money well spent.

This is a great idea, if you check around you can often find used gauges for pretty cheap. I got a matched pair of Auto Meter Boost/Oil pressure gauge for $40 at the shootout. The oil pressure gauge even came with the sending unit.

And i'm sure it goes without saying but the reason you get one of those widebands is because they are the easiest to hook up to ECMlink. The LC1(Actually wouldnt it be the LC2 now, I thought the LC1 was discontinued?) also can use a wide range of sensors.
 
Since you don't have a wideband gauge to verify AFR's, what does your vacuum look like at idle compared to what it did before your install? The symptoms you're describing sound like a bad vacuum leak at idle causing the issues you're seeing which would be lean AFR's and low vacuum.

Everyone has their own methods of installing injectors but I've found the best way for me to keep from getting vacuum/boost leaks around the lower seals is to install the seals in the head first smearing a thin layer of gray RTV around them first. Then I let them setup for 30m before I place the injectors in there and gradually torque the fuel rail bolts and seat the injectors.

Just pulled injectors out and noticed the lower seals had gas all over them. Both the inner hole and outside of the seal. I'm pretty sure air was leaking. They were previously installed with the seals already on the injectors but this time I'll use the method u described.
 
i have two sets of 1120cc FIC injectors for my cars.
in your DA tables under InjBatteryAdj
7v - 3180
9v - 2170
12v - 1600
14v - 1320
16v - 1120
19v - 900

also your global should be -62.9 with 43.5psi fuel pressure around 0 for deadtime.

now those are just basic settings.
once i had a tune the injectors were rescaled to 900cc with 43.5psi fuel pressure and -210 deadtime.

in your misc tab, uncheck your airflow smoothing box(i dont think you are running sd, are you?)

i also had to mess with CoolantTempFuelAdj to get cold start to work right.


Update: Pulled injectors, added a thin layer of RTV to lower seals and re-installed. Kept ECMLink settings the same to see if this was the only problem. Started car and it ran better but still had rough idle and sputtering during revs .Shut the car off. Then adjusted my InjBatteryAdj values to match the post above and used -62.9 global and 0 deadtime. Started her up and now she's running great again! A big thanks to all of you for helping me out.
 
A lil stumbling on cold start but it didn't shut off. After a couple minutes it seemed to idle pretty good. I have FP2 cams and idle is close to how it was prior to FIC 1120s. I didn't touch the throttle until the end of the log. I noticed my InjDuty shot up to 204% while hitting 3,500rpm launch control?

Also, I spoke to the guy who sold me the injectors and he's gonna get me the data sheet in a few days.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top