ECMlink dialing in my tune

[GST with PSI]

Your knock went away because you adjusted the MAF sliders positive, which in turn, added a bunch of fuel. This is also why your WBfactor is now asking you to remove air in the higher rev range. Like I said, if you compare your ridetoworktune to your ewot2 , you'll see the ridetowork log is significantly leaner up top where you're seeing knock. Your knock is probably going away in the ewot2 log because of the rich AFR, but it's not the "right" way to make it go away. If you want to richen up the AFR, you should do so using the OpenLoopMaxOct table...but not until your maf is reading airflow properly. That make sense?

 

[enriquez2000]

Your knock went away because you adjusted the MAF sliders positive, which in turn, added a bunch of fuel. This is also why your WBfactor is now asking you to remove air in the higher rev range. Like I said, if you compare your ridetoworktune to your ewot2 , you'll see the ridetowork log is significantly leaner up top where you're seeing knock. Your knock is probably going away in the ewot2 log because of the rich AFR, but it's not the "right" way to make it go away. If you want to richen up the AFR, you should do so using the OpenLoopMaxOct table...but not until your maf is reading airflow properly. That make sense?

I adjusted openloppmaxoctane to target 10.8 to 1.. that should be good for 91/93 octane. Ill keep pluggin away on the mafcomp.. ill reset it to 10s and go from there. Should i only do that in wot pulls... the mafcomp tool didnt seem To work too well

 

[GST with PSI]

The MAFcomp tool only works in closed loop. That means it's worthless for dialing in your airflow at WOT, which is in open loop. In the absence of data collected in closed loop, you have to manually adjust each slider in the MAFcomp table according to your logs. Although you can modify the closed loop thresholds to extend your closed loop conditions, most of the sliders in the higher hz ranges will be adjusted from WOT logs/pulls. This is pretty simple to do given the WBfactor value, as long as the data you collect in each log fairly accurate. If you do want to extend your closed loop thresholds, look here.: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft

I would refrain from making any adjustments to the fuel tables until you dial in your MAF. The reason I say this is because any changes you're making to the fuel table aren't going to be accurate until your airflow readings are correct. That's the whole reason you want to dial in airflow; so that the AFR the computer is trying to hit, and your actual AFR are the same.

Take a look at the ewot2 log at 4.390 seconds. Your AFRatioEst is 10.7:1 , meaning at that point in time (load, RPM, etc) the computer is shooting for 10.7:1 AFR. However, your actual AFR is 9.9:1, which is much more rich than your target AFR. Now, look at your WBfactor. It shows you need to subtract air, at a value of -7.4% . So, that means you should go to your MAF comp tab, grab the 1700hz slider, and move it down -7.4% ...which would put you at about -2.7% .

Now, theoretically, that's how you would make the adjustment, but -2.7% @ 1700hz on a 2G MAF seems off to me, which is why I suggested for you to start from scratch.

I've uploaded a MAF comp table that I believe would be a good starting point for you. Just monitor your knock closely, and abort the pull if you see anything over 2-4 degrees. Load this table, do 2 or 3 3rd gear pulls and post the results of the logs back up. I can't emphasize the importance of dialing in your airflow. EVERYTHING else tuning wise depends on this being accurate.

Lastly, take a look at this video. It's a good outline about how to adjust your MAFcomp.

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[enriquez2000]

ok here it is.. ill start adjusting mafcomp by WB factor and do another pull when i hit the road again later. If you have opinions before then by all means chime in

 

[enriquez2000]

and here is what I came up with after adjusting off WB factor... Ill test it in a bit.

 

[enriquez2000]

next pull.. I can see Ive made progress but there is slight knock starting at 5400rpm(where the wb factor is very low).. I adjusted the mafcomp table to try and fix the differences in the 800-1000 range in the beginning of the pull.

At this point, where there is knock, would you decrease timing or add fuel. On the pulls with no knock my wideband read fuel levels at 9.9 to 1 in those rpms...

 

[gofer]

Pull 2* of timing from 5k on...

Your initial post is great, problem is it tells us nothing about your setup and you have no DSM car profile so we have no idea what is/isn't done to your car. I ask because is running 18psi where you want to tune your car or do you plan on turning it up?

 

[enriquez2000]

i tracked it to these cells and went a bit higher...

Your initial post is great, problem is it tells us nothing about your setup and you have no DSM car profile so we have no idea what is/isn't done to your car. I ask because is running 18psi where you want to tune your car or do you plan on turning it up?

i want to keep it at 18psi.. this is a daily and Im pretty confident in the 18psi being stable. what has been done to the car so far is rc550 injectors, 2g maf, evo8 rewired fuel pump, a chipped TCU to firm shifts in power mode and all maintenance done. All i am looking to accomplish is have a DD thats a bit more peppy.

PS>>> I ADDED MY PROFILE

 

[GST with PSI]

Your air curve is still jacked from 800-1100 RPM. The table I posted initially had you closer than you currently are in the 800-1100 RPM range. 1100 + looks great though, so good job there. I've uploaded a MAFcomp table that I would put in place of the one you last posted. Those peaks you have in your MAFcomp table should be rounded off to make a nice smooth curve. If you have to adjust large peaks in, you probably have an underlying issue with the car. You have to remember, large changes in the values from cell to cell will throw off the WBfactor. This has been my experience every time I've gone to dial in my MAF. Depending on what I'm seeing in my logs, I will generally take the WBfactor and cut it in half, and then adjust the MAFcomp slider. Afterwards, I'll do another pull or 2 and see where that leaves me. If you make large changes all at one time, it's going to be hard to see how the car actually responds. It will also make getting consistent results between pulls very difficult.

When you are posting fuel and timing tables, just post up the whole log, not just the tables themselves. The table itself is worthless unless we can track the cells in the datalog, and correlate problem areas in the log with their corresponding fuel/timing cells. It's much easier to do that when we just have the whole log to open up in ECMlink. Same thing with the settings. There's really no reason to post the settings and/or tables alone when asking for feedback.

I still wouldn't make changes to the timing and fuel tables until your MAF is lining up with your AFR. There's really no point until you dial in your airflow.

 

[enriquez2000]

Your air curve is still jacked from 800-1100 RPM. The table I posted initially had you closer than you currently are in the 800-1100 RPM range. 1100 + looks great though, so good job there. I've uploaded a MAFcomp table that I would put in place of the one you last posted. Those peaks you have in your MAFcomp table should be rounded off to make a nice smooth curve. If you have to adjust large peaks in, you probably have an underlying issue with the car. You have to remember, large changes in the values from cell to cell will throw off the WBfactor. This has been my experience every time I've gone to dial in my MAF. Depending on what I'm seeing in my logs, I will generally take the WBfactor and cut it in half, and then adjust the MAFcomp slider. Afterwards, I'll do another pull or 2 and see where that leaves me. If you make large changes all at one time, it's going to be hard to see how the car actually responds. It will also make getting consistent results between pulls very difficult.

When you are posting fuel and timing tables, just post up the whole log, not just the tables themselves. The table itself is worthless unless we can track the cells in the datalog, and correlate problem areas in the log with their corresponding fuel/timing cells. It's much easier to do that when we just have the whole log to open up in ECMlink. Same thing with the settings. There's really no reason to post the settings and/or tables alone when asking for feedback.

I still wouldn't make changes to the timing and fuel tables until your MAF is lining up with your AFR. There's really no point until you dial in your airflow.

I appreciate the help... Ill use your settings and see where that lands me and leave timing alone for now... I dont really want to pull timing unless absolutely necessary anyway.

Ill just post logs from now on.. still new to this.. I could never do this with hondata so its nice to be able to share my logs and get advice.

 

[enriquez2000]

its looking better but that 800 to 1100 range is giving me issues... ... still getting the knock at 5000 plus rpm(minor but there). made some adjustments and will log again on my way home

 

[GST with PSI]

Looking better. I've attached 2 files. One is an adjusted MAFcomp table based on your last pull. The other is a modified fuel/timing table. These are the timing/fuel tables I'm currently using in my car, and they are very conservative. You can give them a try, tweak them, or ignore them. The choice is yours.

You're still getting significant amounts of knock up top, even with the richer AFR. Typically, people usually pull timing out before richening up the AFR extremely fat. At this point, you don't have a choice but to pull timing out to take care of the knock.

You're making progress, and that's what matters. Good luck.


Edit: Sorry, I was looking at your Minoctane fuel table. Your Maxoctane table isn't wayyyyy rich. I've edited my post to reflect this.

 

[enriquez2000]

Looking better. I've attached 2 files. One is an adjusted MAFcomp table based on your last pull. The other is a modified fuel/timing table. These are the timing/fuel tables I'm currently using in my car, and they are very conservative. You can give them a try, tweak them, or ignore them. The choice is yours.

Your current fuel table is wayyyyyy too rich IMO. You're still getting significant amounts of knock up top, even with the rich AFR. Typically, people usually pull timing out before richening up the AFR extremely fat like yours currently is. At this point, you don't have a choice but to pull timing out to take care of the knock.

You're making progress, and that's what matters. Good luck.

is the injbatteryadj something I should ignore flashing to ecu or do you recommend it

 

[GST with PSI]

is the injbatteryadj something I should ignore flashing to ecu or do you recommend it

I would leave it at the default setting, if that's what you're asking.

 

[enriquez2000]

I would leave it at the default setting, if that's what you're asking.

yes.. your direct access file looked like it was changing them so ill just leave that part out and only use the timing/fuel out of yours

 

[enriquez2000]

looks like same issues are haunting me

 

[enriquez2000]

tried one from stop... same issues

 

[GST with PSI]

Hey, just for shits and gigs, try and swap this MAFcomp table in, and see what it does. I'm wondering if the large curve we have added in is actually throwing things off. Swap this in and do a pull, and see what that does.

Also, I pulled a few degrees of timing out of your table. Try that out.

 

[enriquez2000]

Ill give it a shot friday.. parking the car for xmas.. Have a merry christmas and ill post a log friday morning

 

[enriquez2000]

well so much for trying it today.. we got 7" of snow and still coming down.. May have to find an icy parking lot and punch it to log ...

 

[enriquez2000]

What do you think of taking my plugs a step cooler. My honda had to go a step down and a .28 gap.. it has way more power but i wondered if that might help.

These ones maybe http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NGK8/4554.oap?pt=N0608

 

[GST with PSI]

What plugs are you currently running? I think NGK 7's should be fine at your current boost level.

 

[enriquez2000]

Just put in ngk 7s today but still cant do a WOT pull.. roads are still icy.. oh colorado weather

 

[enriquez2000]

Well now i am WAY off again.. the ngk 7 series plugs through off the mafcomp a ton... this is after some adjusting.. everything is about 20% off in WOT still.... I am assuming the colder plugs are throwing it off.

 

[GST with PSI]

Dude, you keep screwing with the MAFcomp and throwing things way off. Once again, you can't make large adjustments from cell to cell and expect your AFR's to line up. It's just not going to happen. Between 700 and 800hz you jump almost 10%. And, there's no way you need a +33% adjustment after swapping in a set of colder plugs. If you really need to adjust that much, something is screwed up. Get rid of that garbage MAFcomp table and plug the last table we worked on back in, then post another log. You were really close to having things dialed in before, and now you're worse off than you were when you first started.

I'm not trying to be a dick. I'm legitimately trying to help. You problem is you're trying to do too much all at once. You're trying to adjust 5 things at the same time, rather than getting one thing perfect, and then moving on to the next. Why swap to a colder plug when you haven't even worked out the tune on the set of plugs you have in the car? If you keep changing variables as you're trying to dial in your tune, this thread will go on forever.

Keep it simple. We need to dial in your airflow. Once that is good, pick a boost level, and a manageable fuel table. Once you decided on those, go out for a drive and pull timing and add fuel where needed to combat knock. For timing and fuel, you can do them in reverse order if you'd like, it's whatever. But neither are done before airflow is right. It's the cornerstone of an accurate tune.