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FIC 1120 dial in & tune

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Oh ok, I forgot to do that. I noticed u pointed that out earlier. Yeah wideband is next on the list. Still don't understand why my injduty is so high? I'm not even boosting
 
What are your AFR's while it's idling? You have ECMLink and have the ability to post a log, a log could tell us a lot more than what you're trying to explain.

Each injector set is different, you could have two sets of FIC 1120 injectors and would still need to tweak globals/deadtimes to get fuel trims to line up. Use ECMLink's calculations to get close, then make your adjustments to get fuel trims/AirflowPerRev lined up at idle...

Those 1120's should have come with a data sheet from FIC, did the seller include it when you bought them?

Update: Seller sent me the FIC 1120 data sheet and it's attached to this post. Looks like average flow is 1105cc. Is there a way to calculate deadtime from the info on the data sheet? Right now it's set to 0.

Also, I installed STM fuel pump rewire kit and I ordered a innovate MTX-L wideband.
 

Attachments

  • FIC 1120s - 1.pdf
    1.6 MB · Views: 140
in you DA menu, under InjBatteryAdj, input the values off your sheet.
at 43.5 psi fuel pressure the table suggests
8v - 3.18ms = 3180 deadtime
10v - 2.17ms = 2170 deadtime
12v - 1.6ms = 1600 deadtime
14v - 1.32ms = 1320 deadtime
16v - 1.12ms = 1120 deadtime
(1ms=1000deadtime)

you can get 12v,14v and 16v bang on off the chart, but you will have to estimate for 7v, 9v and 19v.

1105cc and 43.5 fuel pessure in the injector calculator gives you global of -62.4.
this should give you 0 deadtime according to the paper work.

what your car chooses to do in real time is going to be different.
 
in you DA menu, under InjBatteryAdj, input the values off your sheet.
at 43.5 psi fuel pressure the table suggests
8v - 3.18ms = 3180 deadtime
10v - 2.17ms = 2170 deadtime
12v - 1.6ms = 1600 deadtime
14v - 1.32ms = 1320 deadtime
16v - 1.12ms = 1120 deadtime
(1ms=1000deadtime)

you can get 12v,14v and 16v bang on off the chart, but you will have to estimate for 7v, 9v and 19v.

1105cc and 43.5 fuel pessure in the injector calculator gives you global of -62.4.
this should give you 0 deadtime according to the paper work.

what your car chooses to do in real time is going to be different.

I used these settings. Idle seems a lil rough but no sputtering issues and it revs fine. I'm still seeing very high injector duty. This doesn't make any sense to me. At this rate if I was boosting the injector duty would be 500+. These should be dialed in somewhat close now.
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.01.03-01.elg
    508.7 KB · Views: 81
you should log ISCposition, LTFTLo and i can offer suggestions, i'm a 1g guy.
also something is stopping your TPS from getting to 100%,
whatever YOUR injector calculator says is what you should use. i don't know why mine calculated differently than yours.
do you have your factory injector resistor box installed still?
 
that injector duty is crazy. your first log looked way more normal. i don't know what to say. i'd need a wideband to try to figure this one out.

I appreciate your help. Yes factory resistor box is installed. I had stock injectors prior to all this madness and the car ran fine. I ordered a MTX-L wideband so I'll wait till I install it to do another log. Only changes that were made since previous log were fuel pump rewire, injector settings (matched your post) and I unchecked the disable air smoothing box.
 
If you get a chance post a log of the car at idle while fully warmed up. No need for a wideband for basic setup.

Ok, I thought I let it fully warm up on the last log or at least as warm as the car would get at idle in the winter. I'm running a gates thermostat and it runs a lil cooler than stock. My wideband should arrive tomorrow and I'll install it right away. I'll post a new log and hopefully u guys can see what's going on.
 
Im sorry, I didnt mean basic setup as in mods. I meant basic setup as in your BASE setup.

You need to add injector deadtime to get your CombinedFT closer to 0%. You also want to capture and display ISCPosition to make sure you are near 30, which helps the ECU control idle.

Not sure about the IDC being so high.
 
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Im sorry, I didnt mean basic setup as in mods. I meant basic setup as in your BASE setup.

You need to add injector deadtime to get your CombinedFT closer to 0%. You also want to capture and display ISCPosition to make sure you are near 30, which helps the ECU control idle.

Not sure about the IDC being so high.

Ok thanks, I'll work on it this weekend. I got my wideband in the mail today and I'm installing it now. I plan to run it in the front o2 location and simulate narrowband with ECMlink
 
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Update: installed new auto meter c2 boost/vacuum gauge, c2 oil pressure guage and MTX-L wideband in front o2 housing. Simulating narrowband with ecmlink. Added LTFTlo, MTX-L & ISCposition to captured values. It's too late at night to fire the car up so I'll do it tomorrow and post a log.
 
Im sorry, I didnt mean basic setup as in mods. I meant basic setup as in your BASE setup.

You need to add injector deadtime to get your CombinedFT closer to 0%. You also want to capture and display ISCPosition to make sure you are near 30, which helps the ECU control idle.

Not sure about the IDC being so high.

camshaft upgrade and 1120cc injectors are a basic setup?
maybe you can give a suggestion on why his injector duty cycle is so high.

Heres a log. The good news is my IDC is very low now. I'm sure its not where it should be but I'd rather it be low than high. Looks like ECMlink isn't reading my wideband correctly. After full warm up MTX-L was displaying around 14.1 on average but ecmlink stayed at 7.4 ? I played with the deadtime and it's seems like no matter what I did my CombineFT stayed at 5.1. I'm on lunch break now so I gotta get back to work. I'll give it another shot after I get home from work.
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.01.19-01.elg
    687.1 KB · Views: 75
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You can disregard that log since it's missing wideband data. I figured out ecmlink wasn't reading my wideband due to a bad connection to pin 76. I hate cutting wires on the main harness so I used one of those quick wire connectors that just snap in but unfortunately it didn't work. I removed it, hard wired the connection and now ecmlink is seeing 22.4 with car off which is what the wideband is displaying. I also fixed the throttle position so it goes from 0% - 100% now. My neighbor's elderly and will call the cops if I start my car at night. I'll post another log tomorrow.
 
2 logs. One is from cold start to warm. On the other log I adjusted FPR closer to 43.5, tried to tweak throttle adjustment and deadtime. IDC is still low so thats good. I'm starting to think my old front o2 was the culprit considering after wideband install the high IDC went away. My idle is surging a lil bit now. Please take a look at these and point me in the right direction. In the meantime I'll watch/read the tutorials again on how to get the basics dialed in. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.01.20-01.elg
    514.9 KB · Views: 70
  • log.2015.01.20-02.elg
    189.9 KB · Views: 65
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The logged TPSVolts value should be 0.63v with your foot off the pedal (0% throttle) but you're TPSVolts is logging 0.67-0.69v. Keep the car off, key to the ON position, and start a log. Loosen the bolts securing the TPS to the throttle body and rotate it until it lands at 0.63v in your log, then tighten it back down just make sure it doesn't change when you tighten it.
Then recalibrate your TPS --> Wiki : TPSAdjustV3

Then start your car and let it warm up to 180* coolant temps, now you'll be adjusting the BISS screw in the throttle body. Add ISCPosition to your displayed values, currently it's reading high at ~ 50-, you'll want to adjust the BISS screw down (righty tighty) to lower that number to a value of 30-.

If you're still getting a bit of idle surge and your ISC value is jumping all over the place the easiest thing to do is test the ISC, if it's functioning right then you need to do a BLT.
 
The logged TPSVolts value should be 0.63v with your foot off the pedal (0% throttle) but you're TPSVolts is logging 0.67-0.69v. Keep the car off, key to the ON position, and start a log. Loosen the bolts securing the TPS to the throttle body and rotate it until it lands at 0.63v in your log, then tighten it back down just make sure it doesn't change when you tighten it.
Then recalibrate your TPS --> Wiki : TPSAdjustV3

Then start your car and let it warm up to 180* coolant temps, now you'll be adjusting the BISS screw in the throttle body. Add ISCPosition to your displayed values, currently it's reading high at ~ 50-, you'll want to adjust the BISS screw down (righty tighty) to lower that number to a value of 30-.

If you're still getting a bit of idle surge and your ISC value is jumping all over the place the easiest thing to do is test the ISC, if it's functioning right then you need to do a BLT.

Thanks Gofer! I'll tweak these settings today
 
Made some adjustments and took the car for a cruise. It was nice to finally drive it again. Feels like it hesitates when I 1st get into it but then it takes off. I'm only pushing 5-7 psi and it feels strong. Here are 2 logs. Now that I have a cruise log I'm going to use the MAFComp Adjust tool. I feel like I'm finally making some progress with this tune :thumb: Thanks again for the help
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.01.22-01 COLD START.elg
    408 KB · Views: 56
  • log.2015.01.22-02 CRUISE.elg
    1.2 MB · Views: 63
your tps is struggling to get to 100%. WOT tuning needs 100%.
and your WOT is lean.(but no knock?)
turn up your openloop thresholds as per ecmlink videos and start a mafcompadjust log.
idle is looking better. to get it perfect we need a log of the engine warmed up for like 5 minutes to see where the fuel trims are settling.
gotta get that tps to go to 100%. maybe something is snagging the wire?
 
your tps is struggling to get to 100%. WOT tuning needs 100%.
and your WOT is lean.(but no knock?)
turn up your openloop thresholds as per ecmlink videos and start a mafcompadjust log.
idle is looking better. to get it perfect we need a log of the engine warmed up for like 5 minutes to see where the fuel trims are settling.
gotta get that tps to go to 100%. maybe something is snagging the wire?

Yeah I'm struggling to keep the 100% throttle. I have fixed it at least 10 times now. It will be prefect and then all the sudden change. I'll keep working on it and along with the other stuff
 
your tps is struggling to get to 100%. WOT tuning needs 100%.
and your WOT is lean.(but no knock?)
turn up your openloop thresholds as per ecmlink videos and start a mafcompadjust log.
idle is looking better. to get it perfect we need a log of the engine warmed up for like 5 minutes to see where the fuel trims are settling.
gotta get that tps to go to 100%. maybe something is snagging the wire?

I replaced TPS sensor and adjusted to 0.63. Started the car and it was good till the car got fully warmed up. Then I started seeing 1% while off the throttle. My car vibrates quite a bit and I'm wondering if that might be throwing the TPS off? Everything is tight and adjusted properly. I adjusted again while the car was running and so far it's still getting 100%. When I shut the car off my TPSvolts went from 0.63 to 0.61. So apparently no matter how I adjust the TPS it gets 100% for a lil while and then it won't. Still getting slow idle surge as well. Hopefully this IDLE log will explain whats going on.
 

Attachments

  • log.2015.01.24 FULL WARM IDLE.elg
    353.7 KB · Views: 54
  • log.2015.01.24 TPS 100%.elg
    54.7 KB · Views: 62
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