Clutch Break-in [Merged 5-8]

[GSX_RCR]

Since it won't ever see the streets, how do you suppose I break it in? Dyno? Do a few "easy" 1/4 passes? Chance it and run it on the streets for a few short bursts around the block? *Oh yea, there's no exhaust*

 

[MilwaukeeGSX]

Break in egine to your liking, just dont launch the car.

 

[awddsm95]

Your all good man, just take it easy for a bit, but dont be afraid to boost it up a little to properly seat the rings. I just broke in my personal street car, NEW 6bolt 2.3L, NEW Shep stage 4 trans, NEW Exedy Twin cerametallic. Its fine to do it all together. Good luck!

 

[iziegsx]

There you have it man. Keep us posted on how it all turns out.

 

[Talesin]

Did my engine and CFDF/Fidanza break-in together. Two full third gear pulls (spaced half an hour apart, and NOT launches) to seat the rings and 'rough them in' against the fresh hone.. then light, no-boost-if-possible (hills kinda make that difficult) driving for at least 500 miles of city driving. I then went and did another 1500 of mostly gentle freeway driving (stay OFF the freeways as much as possible in the first 500!) before I called it good and started romping on it normally. But then, I'm kinda paranoid about that, and wanted the rings to seat perfectly (yeah, I know the hone probably had finished wearing away sometime between 500-1000mi, but like I said, paranoid).
Clutch doesn't slip, engine pulls harder at 10psi than the old junk one did at 14.

 

[awddsm95]

To be quite honest, rings typically are seated within the first few hundred miles. They do a real good job smooting the bore quite quickly.

 

[absolute_DSM]

I may be misinformed, but from what I know its not a good idea.

If you are using the motoman theory (which is ironically very similar to the Haynes manual procedure) then you shouldnt be breaking in a clutch at the same time. Reason being your clutch shouldnt see 15 psi or so right away, only city type driving with no boost.

If youre taking it easy on the engine right away then I would think you could go ahead with a new clutch anyways.

By the looks of some of the latter posts, I may have been misinformed.

 

[silverbullett]

I'm only going to boost about 9-10 psi during break-in. We started removing the engine last night at 530pm and it was out of the car at 830pm pacific time. I don't know if that's fast or not but, it seems fast to me. We did it with 3 people and at least 3 of every wrench and socket. Thanks for all the tips guys. The block is now disassembled and ready for the machine shop.

 

[Artago]

I'm breaking in a built 7 bolt and an ACT 2600 starting Tuesday. I think it should be OK as long as I don't get on it in the first 500-1000 miles. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[iziegsx]

I'm breaking in a built 7 bolt and an ACT 2600 starting Tuesday. I think it should be OK as long as I don't get on it in the first 500-1000 miles. I'll let you know how it goes.

I should start a similar break-in this upcoming weekend 6bolt swap/act2900 6 puck block has 0 miles clutch should be in my hands on Tuesday wish me luck

for life

 

[99gst_racer]

Do the Motoman break-in procedure for 20 miles and then change your oil. As long as you have the boost turned down, and you aren't dumping/slipping/launching hard on the clutch, it will be fine. I plan to break in my built engine, TRE tranny, and clutch all at the same time this coming spring.

 

[Artago]

I should start a similar break-in this upcoming weekend 6bolt swap/act2900 6 puck block has 0 miles clutch should be in my hands on Tuesday wish me luck

for life

Good luck.

 

[iziegsx]

Thanks man ill be sure to give updates

 

[Black_Bullet]

I may be misinformed, but from what I know its not a good idea.

If you are using the motoman theory (which is ironically very similar to the Haynes manual procedure) then you shouldnt be breaking in a clutch at the same time. Reason being your clutch shouldnt see 15 psi or so right away, only city type driving with no boost.

If youre taking it easy on the engine right away then I would think you could go ahead with a new clutch anyways.

By the looks of some of the latter posts, I may have been misinformed.

I agree with this post...
Id do them separate if you plan on breaking your engine in hard to ensure a strong motor with tightly sealed rings... A clutch should be broken in as gently as possible...

 

[iandsm77]

I recently had an XTD 6 puck clutch installed and resurfaced the flywheel. Before my clutch was slipping and i can tell the problem is a lot better but there is some shaking at the top of 2nd and more shaking in around 3k rpm in 3rd. Other than that it catches nice and feels great through the rest of the gears. I know XTD says there is a 500 mile break in period and i was just wondering if maybe these issues are due to it not being fully broken in yet or if its something else.

 

[rich3389]

I will be breaking in my clutch very soon. I will also be getting a XTD 6 puck stage 3 clutch.

 

[TSi_with_psi]

I have had experience breaking in a XTD stage 3, 6 puck clutch on brothers 96 GST. I know that it was really touchy and it would shudder quite a bit when we were first starting off, but it didn't shutter once the clutch was fully engaged. How much horsepower do you have? The reason i ask is because the clutch probibly wont be able to hold full power until it has been broken in.

 

[iandsm77]

before the clutch was put in i had my car tuned on a mustang dyno at 182 awhp and that clutch was slipping like hell.

 

[rich3389]

The XTD stage 3 clutch is rated at 350 hp.

 

[iandsm77]

yeah i know its rated for a much higher hp than what i have right now but i wanted to know if this shaking thru high 2nd and mid 3rd is due to the clutch not fully broken in yet or if its something else

 

[DGajre777]

I wonder why it needs a 500 mile break in. The disc looks like a regular 6 puck ceramic disc, like the ACT's sprung hub 6 puck disc that I had that required no break-in.

As for the shaking, it is most likely chatter. Does it shake in first gear? Do you have prothane motor mounts? Does it still shake when you do a high RPM slip?

The XTD stage 3 clutch is rated at 350 hp.

FYI - Clutches are rated for torque, not HP. The XTD Stage 3 clutch is rated at 298ft/lbs.

 

[iandsm77]

As for the shaking, it is most likely chatter. Does it shake in first gear? Do you have prothane motor mounts? Does it still shake when you do a high RPM slip?

No shaking in 1st and feels shaky when im doing high rpm in 2nd. I was thinking maybe motor mounts since its a 6 puck and no prothane motor mounts.

 

[Pursuit]

I have same clutch before you shoud to drive about 500 Miles my sliping like hell too
Don't worry, for that price that it's good clutch.

 

[emoguitarboy]

Hey, I searched and none of the topic related searches yielded no results. I was wondering what the break in period for the ACT2600 is.

 

[dnhieu]

i dunno why everyone thinks you need to break in a clutch. their is nothing to break in. most people ushally take it easy for 1k miles tho...

 

[emoguitarboy]

Ok, so if I pop it in on Saturday, I can hit the track the next day?