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Clutch Break-in [Merged 5-8]

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GSX_RCR

20+ Year Contributor
643
2
Aug 26, 2002
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Since it won't ever see the streets, how do you suppose I break it in? Dyno? Do a few "easy" 1/4 passes? Chance it and run it on the streets for a few short bursts around the block? *Oh yea, there's no exhaust*
 
i bought an act 2600 (tsi awd) and just drove normally to work and around with friends and its fine, dont need to baby it or rage on it the first day, maybe reset it around 4-600 miles but thats it...(my 2 CENTS since i just bought one)
 
The break in on the organic street disk is to remove any air trapped between the fibers. A puck clutch need basically no break in but the street disk should have 300-500 miles of stop-go driving.

Basically you want the clamping force to squeeze any air from between the fiber layers that was trapped there during the manufacturing process.
 
The break in on the organic street disk is to remove any air trapped between the fibers. A puck clutch need basically no break in but the street disk should have 300-500 miles of stop-go driving.

Basically you want the clamping force to squeeze any air from between the fiber layers that was trapped there during the manufacturing process.

The last posting on this forum was nine months ago so I think they figure it out.
 
I never broke in my 2600 sprung 6 puck. Drove it from my garage to a (can't go into full detail about this part) and launched it from 5,500 at 18lbs. Talk about spinning and going through second! Clutch has no sign of slipping and has tons of meat left :D
 
^ Ouch


Personally I say 200-300 miles of good driving (not highway) and your good to go IMO. I don't think I even waited but like 100miles on mine, if that long before I went to the strip with mine and made 5 pass's. Slipped it a hell of a lot of the first 3-4 then on the 5th let her do her thing. *shrug*
 
I used a NEW bone stock N/A clutch from NAPA, coupled with a KM206 transmission, to break in my new built 4G63T. I unknowingly broke the engine in basically how Motoman would, (drove it hard) before I had ever read Motomans procedure. After about 800 miles, I turned the boost up a little more, and leaned out my WOT A/F ratio, so the clutch started slipping in 5th. By the time I reached 1500 miles, it started to let loose in 3rd-5th.

Now I'm building a W5M33 trans with a spool, and I have a new Act Streetlite, and a new Clutchmasters sprung 6 puck and plate. I'm going to go easy on the new clutch for a while.

That's how I suggest doing it. Use a crap clutch to break in your engine hard, then install your good clutch and drive mellow for a while.

Sure it's more work, but that's half the fun right?
 
What does “driving your engine hard” has to do with clutch break-in? When people talking about clutch break-in they are talking about slipping of the clutch. As some new clutched do not slip well when they are new. You do NOT need to slip the clutch to break-in your engine (even if you prescribe to the HARD break-in theory)! So what you are proposing is a waste of time… Unless you need more practice with clutch jobs ;).
 
ACT 2600 does not need a break-in period for clutch's sake (unlike CF clutch). However, it is needed for drivetrain's sake! I am sure you must have noticed just how hard it grabs when new. Well, it gets a bit better after "some usage".

I recommend a break-in period equivalent of 1 hour in stop-and-go traffic. 500mile break in number is bogus because miles are not what brake in the clutch, the clutch is broken-in it by taking off, slipping the clutch (but not too hard). I have seen people 700 mile to Ohio for the shootout thinking that this was more than enough to break-in the clutch, well it wasn’t (as broken drivetrain later indicated).

So, just take it through a major traffic jam and you will be all set :).

Leon
RR

super sweet ty im putting in act MB6-HDG6 6 pluck clutch kit in mines with a new fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel. I just wanna say thanks again for the info that really helps me. :)
 
What does “driving your engine hard” has to do with clutch break-in? When people talking about clutch break-in they are talking about slipping of the clutch. As some new clutched do not slip well when they are new. You do NOT need to slip the clutch to break-in your engine (even if you prescribe to the HARD break-in theory)! So what you are proposing is a waste of time… Unless you need more practice with clutch jobs ;).


You're right, it would be a waste of time. Some people on here were saying that a new clutch would turn to cotton candy if you try to put any kind of power through it, but my puny N/A DSM clutch didn't look like it was burned up at all when it came out. It just wasn't holding the power. As for my Clutchmasters setup with the streetlite, shortly after I installed it, I laid into it until I hit 120 mph, and it didn't slip one bit.

I revise my statement to say: Clutches don't need any break in period other than probably "don't do an AWD launch directly off the jackstands".:thumb:
 
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