- May 25, 2022
Alright so I’ve been trying to get my car to start and I’ve done a lot, what does it sound like my car is missing now? I’ll add a video, I’m just lost
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I sent my ecu to ecmtuning I gave it to the post office to ship yesterday and I live in va and they’re in md so it should be a pretty quick process so hopefully I’ll have it within the next two weeks, I’m hoping by the end of this week but I don’t want to hope too much just bc I don’t know how busy they are. Hopefully this will fix my car for the main business then it can come down to getting it running good.Since I have read all the previous posts on this thread (and written some of them) I will add my $0.02.
James' ECU is dead. One injector seems to get no pulses at all, another one only clicks 'sometimes.' Opening it up he found a burned R701 and at least one overheated trace, both in the injector drive circuit area. The bad cylinders are 2-3. He will send his ecu for repair soon and probably buy a spare.
IN ADDITION, #4 cylinder has a weak spark. That may be a coil, wire or plug and he has done another video to try to pin it down further. I owe a post after I study the video but haven't had time yet -- if someone else does, that might move things along more quickly.
Tonight probably if the rest of life cooperates for a while.
With what looks like three cylinders out of business right now he needs to fix the problems he has rather than looking for new ones --- though it's likely some will turn up when these are fixed.
I honestly don’t think I did. When I did the first time yes I didn’t but I didn’t wrap anything so I was able to go back thru, I just missed the starter power wire but quickly fixed it within a few minutes of me hopping in the car and realizing I missed something, they’re wasn’t much to wire with the battery just two main power wires and four accessory wires coming from the harness out the fuse box.Its posible that when you rewired you miss another cable
No I have not performed a compression test, I went to the tool store yesterday and looked at prices and just couldn’t afford it this week with other expenses that came first, I will be getting one next week though.
Yes I do, the guy who owned the car before me thought I’d be a good idea to use speaker power wire to wire in the positive battery terminal, the ground for the car, so naturally with a lot of heat next to it, they melted.I wouldn't bother checking compression right now. When you have a working ECU then that car should start. If it doesn't, more diagnosis is in order and since people have said it sounds okay cranking, compression isn't the first place I'd look.
"Almost no compression" (bunch of bent valves or head gasket blown in a couple places) might kept it from starting but you'd hear those when cranking. Also, it did run pretty well (though briefly) right at the beginning of your story, right?
Now if you get it running but idle is rough and you've gotten rid of air leaks and similar stuff then a compression test should be next. But borrow the tool -- don't buy it. All the auto parts places loan tools like that -- you basically buy it (around $50) but when you bring it back they give you your money back.
I've spent a bunch of time staring at those spark videos and I still don't like 1-4. One plug is weaker than the other and some sparks seem to be missing completely. If you swapped the wires on that coil then the 1-4 coil is probably bad.
But let's be cheap about this and for now, do nothing. There's enough spark there to get it to start and if it really is bad, it'll get worse and proof of guilt will be easy to get. Spark coils run $50-100 I think and though a spare is good, that's not where I'd go right now. Just file what you got with those videos under 'highly suspicious."
You've mentioned replacing wires, melted insulation and all that: Do you know what caused that?
Yes I haven’t changed it, it was on the car when I got it.The cas is the same before the problem?
performance partout has a listing priced at $195. But it’s out of stock. Same (out of stock) on Rix. That’s the only two places i checked- just wanted to make you aware of other options depending on your future goals for the car.Would that cost more than getting another black box?
Could you show me a picture of what they would look like? I guess since they’re not in stock at the moment I’ll get a black box for nowperformance partout has a listing priced at $195. But it’s out of stock. Same (out of stock) on Rix. That’s the only two places i checked- just wanted to make you aware of other options depending on your future goals for the car.
Exactly. I didn’t spend a lot of time looking just went to a site I knew I could get you a ballpark price.The eprom ECU’S can still be found. I looked for people parting out 95 DSM’S. I found and bought 2 of them last summer for $200 Canadian dollars each. The sellers didn’t even know what eprom was. I just had them send me pictures of the inside and outside of the ECU. I will keep my eyes open for another one
What happen with the support?With the recent loss of support for black box, your money may be better spent by “upgrading” to a 2ga eprom ecu that ecmtuning can work on for you.
Oh, im looking for itI heard that Ceddy Mods was no longer available on one of our threads this week or last week.
Its supposed to work,I found a md346676 black box on fb, mine a md346675 so I’m assuming those are for the awd cars and won’t work in mine?
I found a md346676 black box on fb, mine a md346675 so I’m assuming those are for the awd cars and won’t work in mine?
Well I went ahead and got the exact one for my car just to be sure I figured I might as well, plus it was just pulled from a running car a week ago for dsmlink so I figured that was my best bet. As for the ecu ohms I can’t exactly remember which pin it was but when I measured resistances in the pins they went up to 17.5ohms and when I grounded them out they went up to 18.5ohms when grounded, if I remember correctly.Per the mitsubishi parts lookup it does work. Here's one of the dealers that uses that software:
This genuine OEM 1998-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ecm #MD346676 is specifically engineered for your 1998-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse vehicle and save up to 70% off of Genuine OEM Parts, comes with a 12 month warranty..www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com
I trust the various mitsu dealers' software pretty close to 100% for interchangeability questions. For the difference in price I would go with that one if you trust the seller to take a return if it's wrong.
One good thing about eBay (where I buy a lot of parts) is that dealers there are under eBay's thumb: They will always take a return if you do your part -- test promptly, tell them exactly what's wrong, etc. EBay makes 'em hurt if they don't.
You measured the injector resistance pin to pin at the ECU connector as 75 ohms which is fine. What was the 85 ohm number you mentioned? Don't want to run any risk of frying another ECU ...
One thing I haven't seen on this site is a list of ECU numbers that interchange. Would be a very useful thing.
My # 2 injector wasn’t firing and my # 1 injector was barely firing. I had some issues in my ecu that needed to be addressed, I honestly thought getting my ecu figured out first was better than getting the compression test rn but I am gonna get to it once my car is doing what it’s supposed to be doing…I can't believe we still don't have those compression test readings.
I wouldn’t have been able to do it without your guys help, I just need to get it running good now, I’ve got some issues with fuel, when I press the gas it’s like it’s bogging but it stays steady at about 2200 rpm but I did notice this yesterday, that’s the line coming from the water pump, I’m not sure if this connects to my fuel seeming issue.Nice job sticking with this process and getting it started!