Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[dwb]

You're too hard on yourself. It would be stupid to run the engine with a loose bolt in the timing cover. You're not doing that. It was a mistake plain and simple. Running without an upper timing belt cover on the other hand...

Seriously though, you've come a long way and now you're doing cosmetic stuff. That's a great sign you feel good about the mechanical stuff. Lookin good!

 

[CrackedDSM]

You're too hard on yourself. It would be stupid to run the engine with a loose bolt in the timing cover. You're not doing that. It was a mistake plain and simple. Running without an upper timing belt cover on the other hand...

Seriously though, you've come a long way and now you're doing cosmetic stuff. That's a great sign you feel good about the mechanical stuff. Lookin good!

Thanks brotha. And the cosmetic stuff I’m mainly doing due to nothing else really to do. And I’m not pulling the dash yet. I may go ahead and install the AC compressor here soon since it’s coming apart again. Get this A/C ball rolling.


And I’ve always been hard on myself. That’s why honestly I don’t care what people think about me. I talk more shit about myself than anyone else does. Lol.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Ordered some LED bulb for the front turn signals and rear brake lights courtesy of @Anfurnyy ’s advice/build thread. Kind of excited because the rear brake lights definitely need to be brighter due to the idiotic tint on the tails.


Supposedly the radiator is gonna be here Saturday and Helene completely missed us so hopefully I can actually drive the damn car again.

Tired of breaking the car while I’m attempting to fix it. Poor thing has been so neglected that anytime I go to adjust or fix something it just gives up the ghost.

I got you boo . I’ll get you in new reliable condition one broken part at a time.

 

[We're on Boost]

I got you boo .

Aw that's nice and it reminds me of things old and quaint.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Today was a great day honestly. Tons of progress today. I however was so busy working on the car, I didn't take the pictures I normally do, so I'll keep this one short and sweet.


First order of business since I woke up at a decent time and it was very low 70's out was to pull the timing cover to get the bolt out. Plus I've wanted to do this for awhile to check things in there. So I went to do it, and discovered the previous owner replaced all the timing cover hardware with allen head bolts, that rusted somewhere in the past 10+ years it sat. I genuinely mean what I'm about to say next: if you're the type of guy who puts allen headed bolts that aren't titanium or some kind of guaranteed rust-free metal/coating, especially in hard to reach spots, please accept my heartfelt F**K YOU!!!

But, that wasn't a big deal as my giant dewalt "mechanic set" has allen key sockets, so I removed them all. This however added another step the list, and that was a trip to Ace Hardware to replace all the allen key bolts with stainless hex head bolts. That comes later though.

Before I could remove it entirely, I had to remove the crank pulley, water pump/PS pulley combo, and the belts. That went surprisingly easy, except the crank pulley was held in by...you guessed it..allen headed bolts. Seriously W-T-F is it with the fascination with these allen head bolts? Add more bolts to the hardware store list. Sigh.

But yeah, those came off easily enough. Popped the cover off, and was pleased to see all of it looks great still. Everything's tight and OEM, BSE was done properly and speaking of which since I finally had the timing cover off, I pulled the Oil Pressure Relief Valve Spring and replaced it with the shorter/softer Mirage spring. That was so satisfying to do as I've been wanting to do this for WEEKS but was too chicken to actually pull the timing cover. Win-Win.

So yeah, when I pulled the timing cover off I noticed the upper engine mount/cam gear engine mount was rusty and flakey. Can't have that. So I wire wheeled it up, primed it, and painted it. Also painted my spare cam gear cover/OEM Upper Timing Cover with the same paint at the same time, and it turned out great. Pictures tomorrow when the paint cures/dries.

But, with all that I hit a good stopping point and was starving. So locked the Talon up, and went to the hardware store, but first got some pizza. Mmmmmh.

Anyway, head home, start on the car again. Right on time is Amazon Prime and FedEx with my goodies. LED 1157 bulbs to replace the OEM brake lights and honestly, they're fantastic. I tested them out on the front blinkers too, and there's no rapid blink. Just a normal blinking pace. Since I wanted the priority to be brighter taillights, I put all four in the brake lights. Gonna order the front blinkers and rear blinkers next paycheck because I'm so satisfied. Here's a pic showing the difference in broad(very broad, it was bright AF out) daylight between the LED taillights and the OEM brake light bulbs. Pretty sure you can tell which is which. Keep in mind, the bulbs I put in there were amber. I read some reviews that the white ones were too bright and created a hot-spot of light. In hindsight, with retardedly tinted tails, the clear/white would've been fine. But yeah.

Definitely a big difference. Again, this is with near black taillights and the surface of the sun while welding levels of daylight out.

After that, was the job I was dreading. I'm once bitten, twice shy so I was terrified of destroying this SECOND radiator but I took my time and was methodical. If you use the OEM A/C fan with any of the aluminum radiators(Mishimoto, no-name, etc) you will have to cut the three posts down by about half an inch, or it will push the fan like, millimeters away from the turbo and leave a giant 1/2-2/3" air gap between the fan and the radiator. Not ideal.

Anyway, I cut the posts, mounted the fans, and honestly like magic(I'm crediting my wife here, her presence makes stuff go so much better) it dropped in with a little effort, and bolted in like it wanted to be there. Now comes the test...I filled it with water, checked underneath...son of a bi*** there's a leak. F**K. Not again.

Well, lemme see where it's leaking from so I can see where I destroyed it again. Get down underneath and...uh...the radiators not leaking? The water is dripping/flowing down the damn clutch line? WTF How...the radiator itself everywhere I can look is dry as a bone. How is water coming from the clutch line? Trace it back and found the answer. I left the cap from the overflow bottle off the bottle, and the tube was resting on the clutch line near the top. well, that's hilarious. Popped the cap on the bottle, wiped the line...bam. Dry as a bone.

Got her burped with the help of my awesome funnel and adapter set, enjoyed some revs, and shut her down for the night. At idle with both fans it cools down rapidly, way faster than the other radiator which was probably blocked with rust and grime from 10+ years. Very...very pleased. Snapped these two pictures, couldn't decide which one I liked better, shut the hood and went in for the night just as the mosquito army showed up to molest me.

F*cking stoked with how today went. OFH is still dry as a bone which is nice, now the cooling system has been flushed and a new radiator is in there(that's also slightly thicker than the mishimoto unit), and tomorrow I can't wait to see how it looks with the painted upper timing cover and reconditioned driver's side engine mount.

Thanks for tuning in to my TED talk, now get the hell out.


Also: the short and sweet line was a joke. You get it now.


Edit: Add one more thing to the tomorrow's to-do list. I may try to paint the doors on the Talon tomorrow. The champagne racing stripe has gotta go. Lol.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, the paint on the upper timing cover and the engine mount is relatively cured(still needs a few days I think, or maybe just a nice day in some hot engine bay temps), so I popped these bad boys in. Very happy with how they both turned out. I really think black on the cam gear cover was the right choice, as red would've been waaaay too much.

So happy with that. I have way more pictures but they're kind of repetitive.


But, on @Stapl3 's advice I reset the MAFComp to 0 and adjusted the global/deadtimes. I'm fairly pleased with the results. I don't know if the log captures it, but there has always been this lean spot I've been chasing no matter what I do. Very low RPMs and in lower gear, gently give it gas and for a brief period at like 1.8k-2.0k RPM somewhere it'll lean out steadily to like mid-high 16's. Before and after this spot in the RPM range is fine...but yeah.


Favor to ask: can yall give me some MAFComp settings? It seems that when I adjust them I'm doing it wrong. Lol. Log attached below. 3rd Gear pull starts at timestamp 52.680 seconds in the log.

 

[We're on Boost]

Favor to ask: can yall give me some MAFComp settings? It seems that when I adjust them I'm doing it wrong. Lol.

Sorry I don't have any MAFComp. But I do have MacaroniCheese!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Sorry I don't have any MAFComp. But I do have MacaroniCheese!

 

[We're on Boost]

Glad you liked it!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Just for giggles I tried Stapl3's deadtimes and fuel tab settings that he recommended in another thread.

Car was an absolute bear to start and to try to get to idle, but eventually it idled good. It drives and revs okay, but the lean spot that I've been chasing moved from 1500-1800 to like 2600-2800rpms. AFREst also refuses to match the wideband at idle and reads ridiculously high. Like 17.0-18.0:1. Doesn't really seem to respond to any deadtime adjustment trying to get them to be closer.


Swapped back to my OG settings and car seems to like it better, and I can also match the AFRest and Wideband pretty close.

Tossing up a log of the drive on the recommended deadtimes. I think the "buck" and "stutter" is from it going lean. I don't know why or if this is an issue, but there's a lag between my wideband gauge and what it logs. The numbers are accurate, but there's a definite lag there. But yeah, peruse at your whim. It didn't drive bad honestly. I may come back to these settings later.

 

[Stapl3]

Coasting FC Offset seems high, should be like 200.

Are you using the stock narrowband O2 and a LC2 wideband? Where is the wideband sensor located and are you certain there are no exhaust leaks before it? The "wave" is bizarre.

Your fuel system is calibrated correctly and nothing sticks out to me as wrong aside of the weird wave with the wideband during WOT. You can certainly use the mafcomp sliders to try and level it out making afratioest=wideband, granted the slider adjustments might look a little aggressive.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Coasting FC Offset seems high, should be like 200.

Are you using the stock narrowband O2 and a LC2 wideband? Where is the wideband sensor located and are you certain there are no exhaust leaks before it? The "wave" is bizarre.

Your fuel system is calibrated correctly and nothing sticks out to me as wrong aside of the weird wave with the wideband during WOT. You can certainly use the mafcomp sliders to try and level it out making afratioest=wideband, granted the slider adjustments might look a little aggressive.

Yeah I’m using the stock o2 in the o2 housing and the lc2 in the downpipe. It’s right after the oil pan pretty much. No exhaust leaks.

If you don’t mind could you show me what the mafcomp settings would look like? I’ll provide a new third gear pull if I have to.


Or should I move the wideband to the stock location and use it for narrowband simulation? That could explain the irritating lean spike I’ve been chasing.

 

[Stapl3]

See attachment.

should I move the wideband to the stock location and use it for narrowband simulation?

Not sure. It would be interesting to try.

Post a log of warmed up idle.

 

[CrackedDSM]

See attachment.


Not sure. It would be interesting to try.

Post a log of warmed up idle.

You got it.


And thank you!

 

[curt-s]

Are you SURE there's no exhaust leak? I ask just because I've had this happen on not only both brand new FP 6851S and JM Fab O2 housing but also my older B16G with cast o2 housing..

There's .001-.002" gaps around the gasket between every bolt hole on the new stuff and some nice ones on the old stuff.
The thing is, you couldn't tell unless you put a light inside the exhaust path.

Now I'm stuck with two leaky turbo systems and an unbuilt car.
Anyway, just a thought..

 

[CrackedDSM]

Are you SURE there's no exhaust leak? I ask just because I've had this happen on not only both brand new FP 6851S and JM Fab O2 housing but also my older B16G with cast o2 housing..

There's .001-.002" gaps around the gasket between every bolt hole on the new stuff and some nice ones on the old stuff.
The thing is, you couldn't tell unless you put a light inside the exhaust path.

Now I'm stuck with two leaky turbo systems and an unbuilt car.
Anyway, just a thought..

I'm pretty sure, but honestly might be worth checking into. I don't get any kind of exhaust smell in the engine bay, but I have an exceedingly bright flashlight I can put on the other side and shine.


Also: I feel so stupid being excited over this, but I ordered the rest of the LED bulbs for all the turn signals and stuff that I haven't pulled the trigger on yet. Kinda stoked to see it all lit up at night now. I do think despite my flag waving and chest beating, that I'm gonna convert the headlights to LEDs as well. Except I'm gonna just go with an H4 conversion housing and some nice bright H4 LEDs w/ proper harnesses, but that's a ways in the future. For now, just gonna go with LEDs everywhere else.


Double Also: I really don't want to do it, but I think I'm gonna have to buy and install a stereo headunit for this thing. I don't think I want to daily drive it without some tunes. That's gonna be a whole new can of worms for me, as I have never dealt with or touched stereo related stuff. Anyone got some suggestions for a nice setup? I don't want to vibrate every car near me with bass, just want something that would pass as a "premium" sound system for a modern mid-ranged vehicle.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I'm pretty sure, but honestly might be worth checking into. I don't get any kind of exhaust smell in the engine bay, but I have an exceedingly bright flashlight I can put on the other side and shine.


Also: I feel so stupid being excited over this, but I ordered the rest of the LED bulbs for all the turn signals and stuff that I haven't pulled the trigger on yet. Kinda stoked to see it all lit up at night now. I do think despite my flag waving and chest beating, that I'm gonna convert the headlights to LEDs as well. Except I'm gonna just go with an H4 conversion housing and some nice bright H4 LEDs w/ proper harnesses, but that's a ways in the future. For now, just gonna go with LEDs everywhere else.


Double Also: I really don't want to do it, but I think I'm gonna have to buy and install a stereo headunit for this thing. I don't think I want to daily drive it without some tunes. That's gonna be a whole new can of worms for me, as I have never dealt with or touched stereo related stuff. Anyone got some suggestions for a nice setup? I don't want to vibrate every car near me with bass, just want something that would pass as a "premium" sound system for a modern mid-ranged vehicle.

Call Crutchfield, their people will steer you in the right direction, answer any questions you have, provide install instructions, and generally just get you sorted, especially if you’ve never done it. Best vehicle specific fitment advice, harnesses, master sheets, you name it. Plus lifetime tech support is great too.

 

[curt-s]

Gonne be blasting some venga boys while cruisin down the highway

You might need something like a borescope with side LED. A flashlight on one side won't give you the visibility you need, especially if it seals on one side but not the other. You wouldn't even be able to see a gap on the far side.. this is a removal and inspect thing but then you're looking at new gaskets. Of course, you could stick a short flashlight UP the o2 housing outlet, that's what I initially did. As soon as the lens passes by the mating surfaces, you may be able to see the light. The brighter, the better. The side LED borescope just made things easier, especially with a cast housing. That's how I found out everything I have sucks in this regard, even brand new.


I thought those stainless gaskets would crush even a bit, and so did FP, but no dice.

 

[92Turbski]

Gonne be blasting some venga boys while cruisin down the highway
We like to party.
Hahahaha, NICE!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Double Also: I really don't want to do it, but I think I'm gonna have to buy and install a stereo headunit for this thing. I don't think I want to daily drive it without some tunes. That's gonna be a whole new can of worms for me, as I have never dealt with or touched stereo related stuff. Anyone got some suggestions for a nice setup? I don't want to vibrate every car near me with bass, just want something that would pass as a "premium" sound system for a modern mid-ranged vehicle.

Absolutely recommend using a adapter harness. It connects to the OEM harness connector for the radio and then all you have to do is connect the adapter harness to the stereo harness on the stereo side. I believe Metra probably makes one for a couple bucks so you don't have to hack up the stock wiring harness.

As far as sound wise goes depends on the head unit. Some have small amps built in to drive speakers better, or even a small sub. If it were me I'd probably look into a small 8-10" sub+amp combo. Kicker makes a few and they're fairly small. Would have to go into the hatch area though. You could probably find some small enough to fit under the passenger seat too if you cared enough. Something like a 2005-2007 sti OEM sub. Or even kicker makes an 8" sub amp combo for under the seat also. Just google "under seat sub and amp"

Also: I feel so stupid being excited over this, but I ordered the rest of the LED bulbs for all the turn signals and stuff that I haven't pulled the trigger on yet. Kinda stoked to see it all lit up at night now.

What 1157s are you planning on using for the front blinkers? I have tried 3 different "anti hyper flash" bulbs and they all hyperflash. I don't know if it's to do with already having LED rear blinkers or what.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Anyway, head home, start on the car again. Right on time is Amazon Prime and FedEx with my goodies. LED 1157 bulbs to replace the OEM brake lights and honestly, they're fantastic. I tested them out on the front blinkers too, and there's no rapid blink. Just a normal blinking pace. Since I wanted the priority to be brighter taillights, I put all four in the brake lights. Gonna order the front blinkers and rear blinkers next paycheck because I'm so satisfied. Here's a pic showing the difference in broad(very broad, it was bright AF out) daylight between the LED taillights and the OEM brake light bulbs. Pretty sure you can tell which is which. Keep in mind, the bulbs I put in there were amber. I read some reviews that the white ones were too bright and created a hot-spot of light. In hindsight, with retardedly tinted tails, the clear/white would've been fine. But yeah.

Also here's a video of the comparison of the front OEM bulb vs the LED and the rear blinker brightness in a dim parking garage. They're definitely bright.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Mr. @Stapl3 , warmed up idle log as requested sir!

Do you need it to be longer? (That's what he said?)


Also to update the thread, I finally set timing with a timing light. I've verified mechanical timing is correct already when I removed the front cover to retrieve my lost bolt, so this was the next step. Timing with the connector ground was at 10* or a little beyond. I set it to what I assume was 5*. Dumb question: 5* on a 6 bolt is lining the mark with the T on the cover, right? It really hates life idling at 5* timing, but it didn't die at least.

I really thoroughly enjoy how it idles with the deadtimes and deadtime settings Stapl3 gave. It revs fast and responds really well.

Anyway, here's the log. Thanks for looking!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Mr. @Stapl3 , warmed up idle log as requested sir!

Do you need it to be longer? (That's what he said?)


Also to update the thread, I finally set timing with a timing light. I've verified mechanical timing is correct already when I removed the front cover to retrieve my lost bolt, so this was the next step. Timing with the connector ground was at 10* or a little beyond. I set it to what I assume was 5*. Dumb question: 5* on a 6 bolt is lining the mark with the T on the cover, right? It really hates life idling at 5* timing, but it didn't die at least.


Anyway, here's the log. Thanks for looking!

5* on the timing cover is the mark between the T and 10*

 

[CrackedDSM]

5* on the timing cover is the mark between the T and 10*

View attachment 745321

Shit! Lol. No wonder it idled like ass.

Thanks buddaaay. Gonna go fix my mistake.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Shit! Lol. No wonder it idled like ass.

Thanks buddaaay. Gonna go fix my mistake.

Also when you lock the timing at 5* it usually almost dies. Car idle with dynamic ignition timing. Usually PROBABLY something like around 15* but jumps around.

It's also a good idea to give it a few revs while it's locked IF you can while watching the light and timing mark to make sure it's not drifting while revving