The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

6266 Build or Bust

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,443
330
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I would think that PPG gearset adds a new level of crazy every time you drive it:sneaky:

😂 Yes it does! And the clutch, which I have to be careful with how I engage it, because if you engage it too fast at a time when the engine revs are not pretty close to where they are going to be, it's really pretty violent.
The one more level of crazy I would probably like to have is a sequential shifter with a big tall lever. Or at least some type of lock-out H pattern shifter.
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
659
545
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
What’s up guys! So I’m not sure where to start, the car RIPS!! I’ve now officially got 75 miles on this new engine/clutch, and yes I’ve been cheating on the break-in LOL. I can’t get over how hard the car pulls on wastegate, which is 27 psi by the way. It’s funny I installed the 3 springs which according to TIAL would produce around 21 psi. Anyways I’ve been slowly inching up my part throttle pulls, dialing in Gobal/Deadtime and smoothing out the VE table. I also still need to calibrate my lc-2 wideband as it reads about .5 richer than what the laptop shows, but again she’s leak free, and PULLS:D. Today I took my coworkers and boss out for a rip and they loved it! Such a good feeling, I feel like I’m finally riding that wave after SO many set backs..well tomorrow I’m going to upload a log for you guys to check out but here’s a few pics.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
My new in-line filter:rocks:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
659
545
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
What’s up guys! Haven’t posted an update in a minute, I’ve got 206 miles on this motor/trans/turbo setup so far, the good news is I think the rings seated great, no blow by, nothing enters the catch can, but as im posting this the issue im pulling my hair out over is the transmission/clutch drag. At one point the car passed the 7000rpm test, then I adjusted the master rod to try and smooth out the 1st gear engagement which I guess put air into the line and caused it to drag again. So I’ve since installed a new OEM master with a 2g rod, however that made no change at idle, the car would not go into 1st no matter the position of the master rod/shifter linkage. So im gonna buy a new OEM slave, bench bleed it, replace the 2g rod in my 1g master with a 1g rod and bench bleed it and then bleed the SH%T out of the whole system and if I still drag at 7000 im buying a twin LOL..
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
here’s my new OEM master with the longer 2g rod, but the car would NOT go into 1st when running, no matter the position of the cables/master adjustment rod, so I’m putting the 1g rod back in, and like I said going TWIN if I can’t get this south bend to release!
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,443
330
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I’ve got 206 miles on this motor/trans/turbo setup so far, the good news is I think the rings seated great, no blow by, nothing enters the catch can, but as im posting this the issue im pulling my hair out over is the transmission/clutch drag. At one point the car passed the 7000rpm test, then I adjusted the master rod to try and smooth out the 1st gear engagement which I guess put air into the line and caused it to drag again. So I’ve since installed a new OEM master with a 2g rod, however that made no change at idle, the car would not go into 1st no matter the position of the master rod/shifter linkage. So im gonna buy a new OEM slave, bench bleed it, replace the 2g rod in my 1g master with a 1g rod and bench bleed it and then bleed the SH%T out of the whole system and if I still drag at 7000 im buying a twin LOL..here’s my new OEM master with the longer 2g rod, but the car would NOT go into 1st when running, no matter the position of the cables/master adjustment rod, so I’m putting the 1g rod back in, and like I said going TWIN if I can’t get this south bend to release!

Well if the slave on the car is pretty old, a new OEM slave might fix it.
But other than that it sounds like what happens when you adjust the master rod too far into the master cyl (out of the clevis) and wind up with no pedal free play (at the top of the pedal stroke).
Adjusting the master rod should not let any air into the system. But it sure can mess up the operation of the port that connects the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder if you get the rod adjusted too far out of the clevis. It seems like this could be it because you sort of had it working ok, sounds like, at first, and then all of a sudden after adjusting it went all foo foo.
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
659
545
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Hey guys I figured I’d throw in a positive update since it’s been a minute. Today I finally finished up the battery box. As in I installed the vent tube and lid to the box, so now I guess I’m track legal and ready for some 13’s :hellyeah:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I wasn’t really sure how most people route the vent tube? Hopefully it’s alright.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
And as for my clutch/fork debacle, I put my old master back in yesterday, I thought I was good Tuesday when I got it moving again, but yesterday when I was putting my center console back together, I pumped the pedal a few times to check it and sure enough I could feel it pre loading again. So at some point I’ll open it up and see if I can find the issue. But anyways for now everything’s ready for the clutch to be bled tomorrow so I can do some pulls and the fork has 3/4” movement like it’s supposed too. One plus is the piston on the new slave stays with the fork when it moves. My old slave would pause for a sec THEN move with the fork, so I’m sure that’s a good thing:) Happy Friday guys:dsm:
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,302
3,293
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
That’s weird. Check resistance at the plug (pump side). Iirc there’s 4 wire, power & ground for pump and the other two are for the level gauge. If you there’s no reading, it’s the sending unit which you can probably fix.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top