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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

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6266 Build or Bust

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Got my control arms a couple weeks ago from Volk, they look even nicer in person.
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Install wasn’t too bad except the passenger side was a b!tch. Anything aftermarket doesn’t quite fit like oem, but I love these and glad I got them. I got the diff mounted up today as well, the BSFab mustache bar was a bust. Even after loosening the stud hangers for wiggle room it just wouldn’t mount up. One side slid right on, the other not so much, I actually got it stuck and was a pain to get it back off, so the oem one went back on like a glove LOL, I don’t mind it one bit.
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Its progress :)
 
Hey guys not much of an update, just wanted to share a pic of these nifty lifting brackets I just got from Boosted Fabrication! Can’t wait to order my trans mount/bracket from these guys, anyways LOL
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I got a front/rear engine lift bracket, and of course their auto trans lift bracket and their clutch master cylinder block off plate to finally finalize the remaining 5 speed history of the car LOL
 
Well I finally got the motor out last weekend and slowly tore it down through out the week.
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Now for the fun part LOL, I was excited to see how everything looked after making some power, again this engine only has 1300 miles on it.
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No issues with the headgasket, this thing only saw 39 psi on a 6266, I know people have run way more boost on much bigger turbos with these gaskets, I’m definitely a fan of them LOL.
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The head looks good, time for the block.
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The worst wear was on the main journals of the crank, nothing that my fingernail would catch.
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And on to the rods.
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So nothing looked catastrophic, this engine had normal oil pressure its last idle and sounded fine, I just wanted to tear it down to be on the safe side, and I’m no expert on the journal wear, my brother n law said it doesn’t look bad, I’m hoping it can be polished and re used, I’ll also be upgrading to some “turbo tuff” 21mm .250 wrist pins.
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Yesterday I removed all four broken oil squirters, I have the 12mm x 1.25 plugs on the way :thumb:
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Right, I knew I would be taking both the block and the head in for servicing so it wasn’t a big deal.

Once I get my oil squirter delete plugs in, I’ll be bagging everything up for the machine shop in October/November, then I’ll be tearing into the w4a33 :rocks:, I’m going with an IPT re build kit, attacking that this winter, and hopefully have the car back on the road in its refreshed, automatic glory by spring of 2026 LOL
 
I tore it down because all 4 of my oil squirters broke off at some point, and despite oil changes every 50 miles or so I would still see a few specs of material here and there in the oil, so hoping to re use my crank, rods and pistons I tore it down to be safe :thumb: The head gasket is a SCE Vulcan Cut Ring, it’s basically just a composite with SS rings that seal the combustion chamber, the rings actually have a slight protrusion that bites into the head for a better seal, but like Anfurney said it does require decking the head each time, but I’m still a fan of them:)
 
Those bearings don't look bad. Polish your crank with a long strand of 320 emery cloth and WD40. It will look and feel like new.
Forgot to add, then measure it.
 
Thanks for the advice Marty! I will however be taking the block/head and rotating assembly back to the same machine shop I always use, the trans however I will be attempting on my own LOL, the valve body will go to Aaron Gregory, Center Diff and converter will go to John at IPT :thumb:
 
Well I'll follow along on the trans rebuild and see if I can duplicate it for the new car I somehow got. I have a welded center dif already to go. Keep us updated 🙏
 
Its a curse Jeremy........ :ohdamn: ROFL
Did you EVER figure out why you were breaking your squirters
 
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I assume vibration also. When I open up my other block, I'll be looking to see if any survived too.
 
Actually what’s funny is with a fluidamper and factory motor mounts, I don’t feel any engine vibrations behind the wheel at idle despite balance shafts deleted, however the engine certainly moves a good bit at high rpm pulls as you could see in the dyno video:idontknow:
 
I know the "feeling". I have ProThane mounts and no balance shafts BUT had the bottom end balanced. 😎
 
Made some progress today on the tear down, got the valve body out and wrapped up to be shipped out in October.
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Despite how dirty this thing is on the outside it looks nice and clean on the inside LOL.
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Next up I tackled the pump removal, I followed the tips of an old thread on here for a kiggly 5 friction install and used some oem main bolts to back the pump out.
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It came out fairly easy.
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That left me staring at my front clutch basket, the next few parts came out very easy.
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Hard to believe these are 35 year old parts, Friday I ordered the hard copy of the ATSG manual that’s on w4a33.com, found it on eBay for $20 bucks LOL, before I continue on I’m gonna practice re installing these 5 parts to learn before I dive in too deep LOL, I’m having fun tho:D
 
Doing good Jeremy! That old fluid was dark so I'm sure some fictions were getting old and thin. Your gonna love it!
 
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