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6266 Build or Bust

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Jeremy, how far in did you get before you pulled the main shaft out (and whatever may still be on it)? Do you have a picture, maybe?
Thx!
 
Jeremy, how far in did you get before you pulled the main shaft out (and whatever may still be on it)? Do you have a picture, maybe?
Thx!
Are you talking input shaft I assume? After removing the pump, then pulling out the front clutch basket, I just pulled out the input shaft with the rear basket on as one, the rear basket is currently still on as I couldn’t get it off LOL, I removed the frictions/steals. I also removed a little snap ring on the shaft I thought may have been holding the rear basket on, but it still wouldn’t come off, so as of now I’m just leaving it on, as all I’m doing basically with this trans is replacing frictions, seals o rings etc, all the gears and everything look brand new.
 
Here’s some pics of the tcase, it’s been fun doing this stuff while the weathers still nice.
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I had already pressure washed this thing last year, but it still needed a little cleaning before the primer, it wasn’t bad, just used my wire brush and some good ole wet wipes to get her ready :thumb:
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Did 2 coats with the same primer as the trans, sprayed 2 coats with the same paint.
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Next that night I prepped for the iron portion..
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And BOOM.
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Like I said, I couldn’t resist, the weathers nice, the parts look nice, even tho they’ll be out of sight, I think it’s worth the minimal effort anyways LOL
 
On your 2nd picture, that very tip that is hollow on the back is what broke on mine.
Thank you for finding a picture or 2. ✌️
 
No it wasn't. It was just in Auto Mode and getting up to speed during some traffic. I think it was a shaft that already had an issue. I could "half" boost in OD, but it is HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED at all. Just LOCK IT OUT so it won't accidentally happen Jeremy.
This clip shows I am DEFINITELY in OD but I am peddling it, no WOT. I think I was keeping it at around 20 psi tho. Different transmission also.
DON'T DO IT. 😎 :banghead:
 
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Had the day off from work today so I went ahead and gave the center diff removal another shot, and had success!
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After looking up the special tool the service manual recommended, which is the Oil Pump Puller, I realized this thing is intended to just simply be pulled out LOL, so with the same bolt I just kept shimming it around, it moves in and out a little just like an axle, and anyways she eventually let go and popped me right in the thumb LOL
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The output shaft also slides right out once the diff is out, and at this point I’m pretty certain that’s all I’m removing before replacing o rings and seals and installing new frictions with the rebuild kit, so for now I just bagged up the output shaft and diff, I should be sending the diff/converter out to John at IPT by the end of next month:D
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OUCH!!!!. Take it easy on yourself!!!
I like THIS PICTURE....because I have a similar one! 😍
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Okay guys I finally got a little bit going on with the car I can update, I finally shipped out my stock 1g converter to Florida Torque Converter for a re stall/re build. Also yesterday I got my IPT rebuild kit!
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His kit comes with every oil seal/o ring you need, along with high performance frictions.
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Im not sure if these Raybestos frictions for the front clutch are the same as the kiggly kit but there’s 5 of them LOL
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The rear clutch (2nd gear) frictions are the Raybestos stg 1 which I believe Aaron Gregory is also currently selling, I’d like to grab another set from him to have a back up.The kit also includes this assembly goo John uses in his videos which is cool, the kick down band looks interesting to me, I may re use the stocker as it looks perfect still.
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Now I just need to go out and get some John Deere Hy Gard and I can throw in the front clutch frictions and rebuild the end clutch. I called liberty and they said they’d take down my name and number LOL, no eta on the next batch of transfer gears. On another note I ordered an HD DSS driveshaft, a Frontline Fab brace, and placed an order for a Boostin Performance stg 1 300m tcase! That’s exciting LOL. So anyways yesterday I pulled my door panels to replace my front speakers as they’ve been shot for a while now, got some new pioneers on the way:thumb:
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Today I figured I might as well drop the driveshaft.
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She was definitely shot LOL, I’m planing on upgrading to the Sonnax yoke over the spicer unit, there’s a driveshaft shop here in town I’ll have replace the carrier bearing and u joint for a new oem on the tail shaft portion and then balance the whole assembly. And one last thing on the engine I’m just waiting on my upgraded wrist pins and cam seals, and then everything will head down to the machine shop later this month for that rebuild/re fresh. So I know this is a bit of a shotgun update, I’m kind of all over the place with the car right now but atleast it’s moving in the right direction LOL

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Jeremy, how is this called "a little bit"??? ROFL 🤔
Good job, you have young, energy. That's a GOOD THING! Nice update buddy! ✌️
 
So after reading Marty’s thread on the kiggly 5 friction install, it looks like I don’t have the same frictions for the front clutch, they’re Raybestos but not the stg 1 red, like I got for the rear clutch, I’m still going to run them as I’m sure they’ll work fine with the AGR valve body and shift kit:)
 
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Make dam sure you get the right front steel/shim for proper clearance Jeremy. I learned the hard way but didn't know how to check it or get a different one! Tip to the wise! Do it once, do it right my friend! ✌️
 
Make dam sure you get the right front steel/shim for proper clearance Jeremy. I learned the hard way but didn't know how to check it or get a different one! Tip to the wise! Do it once, do it right my friend! ✌️
Did you reverse the front steal with the rear? I’ll look at my stock ones I can’t remember if their different
 
No, I needed a different thickness and didn't realize it.
 
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Well I pulled the trigger on this guy LOL
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It was on sale for $1279 thru Haltech and I couldn’t resist. I specifically chose the the 1500 because of the plug n play option. I’m keeping ecmlink for now, especially for the first start up on the auto. I still need the PnP harness. DSM 3d creations also makes a bracket to bolt this into the factory location which I’m going with for sure.
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Also in other updates I’ve got my DSS HD 3.5” aluminum driveshaft, I’m still waiting on the Frontline Fab tcase brace, then my tcase is off to Boostin Performance for their stg 1 300m tcase :hellyeah: Happy Holidays:)
 
Thank You! It does come with a bit of guilt this close to Christmas LOL, I told the wife not to get me anything LOL, I guess the kids are still more important :D
 
I specifically chose the the 1500 because of the plug n play option.
Someday maybe you could show us setting up and dialing in a knock sensor on this thing. I'd be interested in that. It still bugs me that we can't see actual knock sensor voltage on ECMlink. In a log, we should be able to see one trace for the actual sensor voltage output, and another trace for knock retard, side by side. And then have a lot of flexibility for programming the retard from the voltage. However they do it, I'd like to see it.
 
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