6266 Build or Bust

[biglady112]

Curious as to why you say they need blocked off?

Because they are a waste of time. And rob oil directly from the main bearings. This is 2025. This is not a new secret or practice that the community employs.

Nevermind the fact that no aftermarket rod and piston were designed to fit them without bending or tweaking of the squirters.

Simply, use the search function.

As for the lifters, lately I’d been getting some lifter tick, thinking maybe the GSC ones might be better than the top line? One question I have for you Steven is what bearings would you recommend? I believe I currently have King bearings as that’s what I asked the machine shop to use, however I know they’re currently unavailable, but say between ACL, Clevite any suggestions? Thanks again


I’m assuming he’s implying that because they’re all broken in my engine , I know it’s somewhat of a debate if you need oil squirters with forged pistons anyways, I’m certainly not worried about them with weekend spirited driving.

I run Clevite in everything. If you have bearing problems, the name on the box isn’t going to save your engine.

I cut every crank to the bearing before assembly ever starts. My oil clearances are setup to what I ask for at the machine shop.

I have made over 1000hp in a 4g63 with $12 rod bearings.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Because they are a waste of time. And rob oil directly from the main bearings. This is 2025. This is not a new secret or practice that the community employs.

Nevermind the fact that no aftermarket rod and piston were designed to fit them without bending or tweaking of the squirters.

Simply, use the search function.

I've read a lot about removing them and know of every one of those reasons. I was more curious about YOUR grudge with them.

I run em with no issues other than needing to slightly bend them.

No need to be short.

 

[biglady112]

I've read a lot about removing them and know of every one of those reasons. I was more curious about YOUR grudge with them.

I run em with no issues other than needing to slightly bend them.

No need to be short.

I gave you your answer.

I want oil where it belongs. On my bearings. I absolutely will not install them on a single engine. And given the choice, I would even use a non turbo block 10/10 times.

Over 280 freshly machined 4g63’s and likely nearly as many cobbled together 4g63’s and not a problem yet.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I gave you your answer.

I want oil where it belongs. On my bearings. I absolutely will not install them on a single engine. And given the choice, I would even use a non turbo block 10/10 times.

You did, but the "use the search function" was a little dramatic don't you think.

Understood.

 

[biglady112]

You did, but the "use the search function" was a little dramatic don't you think.

Understood.

No. In 2025, there literally is no question that hasn’t been answered over the past 30-35 years.

 

[Anfurnyy]

No. In 2025, there literally is no question that hasn’t been answered over the past 30-35 years.

I disagree. There's plenty of information that people don't post on here or just haven't.

Let's just agree to disagree and stop clogging up this mans page.

 

[1cleangsx]

Today I got the garage cleaned up and re organized to make room for the engine stand and parts that will begin flying off tomorrow

Finally got the transmission and t case tucked away, can’t wait to start wrenchin

 

[92AWDHX40]

Man im jealous that's a sick build overall.

 

[1cleangsx]

Thank you Vic! I hope you get yours going this year

 

[1cleangsx]

Almost forgot I got this in the mail a couple weeks ago , next up will be the billet bearing saddles and it’s off to tmz performance to hopefully turn my B1H into a J1H

 

[1cleangsx]

Made some progress today, got the manifold and turbo/hot parts out.

I also went ahead and removed the turbine housing, as I’d like to get all my hot parts ceramics coated this year, this is my first time ever removing the hot side, and there’s some play/wiggle on this part I’m unsure about.

 

[1cleangsx]

Sorry I messed up the pic order, you can see in the 2 pics with my hand the part I’m referring to, is that piece supposed to move up and down?

 

[biglady112]

Sorry I messed up the pic order, you can see in the 2 pics with my hand the part I’m referring to, is that piece supposed to move up and down?

Yes. It floats up, down, left, right. Every turbo has that. When it is stuck is when you have problems.

 

[1cleangsx]

Whew! Thank you

 

[1cleangsx]

Made some more progress today, pulled the thermostat housing and intake/throttle body.

Looks like the o ring on the #1 intake port got pinched, obviously I’ll replace them all upon re installing, and I can’t get over how nice and clean the inside of the intake is, unlike my black and sooty stocker , I know deleting the pcv valve is to thank for that.

Next up I’ll pull the power steering pump and alternator and then yank the head off. Nothings going to the machine shop anytime soon, work is slow right now which is why I have all this time to pull everything apart , I wonder if it’s possible to re use my piston rings? Assuming the engine still had good compression, might be a dumb question but it’d be cool if I didn’t have to re seat anything. I’m specifically tearing this down as precautionary/preventative maintenance. It’s the bearings I’m worried about, but again it’s a good time to make a few changes/upgrades, maybe discuss a looser clearance on bearings with the machine shop with the even higher oil pressure I’ll have after plugging the oil squirters, who knows

 

[We're on Boost]

maybe discuss a looser clearance on bearings with the machine shop

Yes! And maybe ask Steven what your bearing clearances should be. I know what he has said in the past and it's in the same range that I would think of as good. But that was around 10 years ago.
Don't forget - use thicker oil with looser oil clearance.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If blocking off the oil squirters, I would shoot for .0025-.003" mains and .003" rods. That should bleed off a little of the oil pressure.
Just my opinion.
My latest engine likes these #'s but it does have high oil pressure so increasing bearing clearance would have lowered it, but IDK how much. Other than higher than i like oil pressure, this engine is very happy, just as a comparison.
Marty

 

[1cleangsx]

Thanks Marty! I’m also digging up every thread on oil filter housing porting as well

 

[biglady112]

Thanks Marty! I’m also digging up every thread on oil filter housing porting as well

In 26 years I have never ported an oil filter housing, soooooo.

 

[1cleangsx]

Noted. Steven should I then just worry about getting the rod/main bearing clearance’s right? As in looser to keep the oil pressure in check?

 

[biglady112]

Street car with low rpm
Mains- .0025”

Race car with high rpm
Mains .003”

Steel rods
Rods- .0025”

Aluminum rods
Rods- .003-.0035” depending on rpm

I cut each journal to each bearing. From standard all the way to .030” undersized. I personally have no issue with grinding a crank. I have never been on the you cannot machine a nitrided crank wagon.

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey guys, haven’t done much in the last couple weeks, today I finally got the forced four shift box mounted in its new home. I 100% copied this idea from @SasaniFab. Back in 2018 or so he auto swapped his 92 and that thread was very helpful.

First I used the box as a template to drill the holes for the zip ties to hold it in place.

Boom.

Next I drilled for the input/output harness and the usb/shift selector. The little hole to the right is for the 8 gauge power feed I’ll run to the fuse block.

I think this is a pretty clever location .

Im happy with the way it turned out, next up I’ll be tackling the main engine harness taps I need for tps/tach/gas etc. I also picked an oem plug from Extremepsi I’ll use for the shift solenoids, hope all is well guys,

 

[92AWDHX40]

It's progress

 

[1cleangsx]

It's progress

That’s right

 

[1cleangsx]

Not an update, just an old pic.