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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Do a visual and maybe a picture of the threads in the crankshaft flange. Cranks are HARD but enough shifting "could" compromise those threads. Do not use a tap on them, only a thread chaser or test a good bolt in them before putting any flywheel back on. :thumb:
 
Clutch disc looks like this. Was out for about a day. This is my brand new one with less than 1-2 hours run time. I mean I did not know it would look like this that fast. Should i replace it or use it? I’m short on money so I will have to wait to purchase a new one.

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Clutch disc looks like this. Was out for about a day. This is my brand new one with less than 1-2 hours run time. I mean I did not know it would look like this that fast. Should i replace it or use it? I’m short on money so I will have to wait to purchase a new one.

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Its fine. You can take some steel wool to it. Its just flash rust. Same thing happens to brake rotors. You can probably just hit it with some brake clean and a rag honestly.
 
Its fine. You can take some steel wool to it. Its just flash rust. Same thing happens to brake rotors. You can probably just hit it with some brake clean and a rag honestly.
Awesome!!! Oh thank goodness. The pressure disc looks good, gonna go grab a new alignment tool and then when my bolts get here today we’ll be looking great!!! Do the clutch bolts need lock tite? Or just the flywheel? Is there any single thing I’m missing while all of this is off!? 😂 I don’t want to miss my chance. I am going to put on the other bigger turbo again, since jt was working I want it back. I’ll go get a tune soon for the car to make sure everything’s square. The car was running great without a tune so we will see how it does, the old turbo with the new intercooler does not fit right. Thank you Mr. Paul for the quick response!

I still have a very bad power steering leak. It’s coming straight from the boot on the passenger side, what should I do? Seems the whole rack and pinions gotta come out. Is there anything special I need to do when removing it? Remove tie rod ends, things holding it up, and it should pop right out correct? And should I rebuild it or send it off to the trash and get a new one.
 
Awesome!!! Oh thank goodness. The pressure disc looks good, gonna go grab a new alignment tool and then when my bolts get here today we’ll be looking great!!! Do the clutch bolts need lock tite? Or just the flywheel? Is there any single thing I’m missing while all of this is off!? 😂 I don’t want to miss my chance. I am going to put on the other bigger turbo again, since jt was working I want it back. I’ll go get a tune soon for the car to make sure everything’s square. The car was running great without a tune so we will see how it does, the old turbo with the new intercooler does not fit right. Thank you Mr. Paul for the quick response!
what happened with the flywheel bolt fix?
 
Did you put the trans back in yet? Wouldn't be a bad idea to turn it over by hand and see if the flywheel has any type of runout.

Any pictures of the crank without the bolts or flywheel installed?
 
Did you put the trans back in yet? Wouldn't be a bad idea to turn it over by hand and see if the flywheel has any type of runout.

Any pictures of the crank without the bolts or flywheel installed?
Trans is not yet in. And what is runout? Here’s a video of the bolts sorry. I forgot to add this. Was thinking of running a “chaser”. Whatever that is.
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Trans is not yet in. And what is runout? Here’s a video of the bolts sorry. I forgot to add this. Was thinking of running a “chaser”. Whatever that is.
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Did you buy modified ARP bolts?
Nevermind....its been so long since I had dismissed this there wasn't dsm bolts available. I assume yiu just contacted a dsm specialist and ordered.
 
Did you buy modified ARP bolts?
This is exactly how the bolts look. This is them.

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What do modified ones look like? Are they better or different?
 

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Never mind. Years ago we modified toyota bolts. You dont have to do that anymore. Ive gotten old and forget.
Old? What do you meannnn not even kind of old sir. 🫡

Never mind. Years ago we modified toyota bolts. You dont have to do that anymore. Ive gotten old and forget.
If I want to get a “chaser” where and what do I get?
 
Online is easiest. I dont remember the size of the hole. How chewed up is it? Video was shakey.
Only 1-2 were chewed. And it didn’t even seem bad at all. Really it was just the bolts that cooked themselves.

I’m putting on the clutch and pressure disc, when I barely barely go to hard BY HAND the pressure disc barely spins. I mean these bolts are so loose and the disc will barely spin by hand. Am I doing something wrong? I checked the clutch disc on a flat surface and it doesn’t wobble even sort of, what can I do to fix this?

Since I felt my clutch getting bad when the flywheel was loose, and some black bits seeming off the pressure disc, I went ahead and bought a new one. 60 bucks gets here this weekend, so we’re a little back tracked but I guess that’s okay. If you guys think I can use this one let me know.

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You seem to mix up the terminology a little bit. I'll clear that up for you.

This is your pressure plate:

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And this is your clutch disc, laid atop your pressure plate:

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I also don't see enough damage to justify another new clutch. It looks glazed over, but that's something that will break in over the next few gentle miles.
 

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You seem to mix up the terminology a little bit. I'll clear that up for you.

This is your pressure plate:

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And this is your clutch disc, laid atop your pressure plate:

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I also don't see enough damage to justify another new clutch. It looks glazed over, but that's something that will break in over the next few gentle miles.
So what about it not fitting correctly? I can’t tighten it down past hand tight because then the clutch disc does not spin. What do I do to fix that? I mean they are loooooose.
 
So what about it not fitting correctly? I can’t tighten it down past hand tight because then the clutch disc does not spin. What do I do to fix that? I mean they are loooooose.
When the pressure plate is bolted down on top of the friction plate (clutch plate) it’s at full clamping force. You should not be able to move it. The throw out bearing on the fork pushes down on the fingers of the pressure plate when you step on the clutch to release the friction plate (clutch plate) allowing the flywheel and all to spin independent of the clutch plate.
 
When the pressure plate is bolted down on top of the friction plate (clutch plate) it’s at full clamping force. You should not be able to move it. The throw out bearing on the fork pushes down on the fingers of the pressure plate when you step on the clutch to release the friction plate (clutch plate) allowing the flywheel and all to spin independent of the clutch plate.
Oh okay got it. So how tight do I want the plate? If you guys think the clutch is fine I’ll definitely save the money, just got worried it was warped after shifting gears on a wobbly flywheel.
 
Trans is not yet in. And what is runout? Here’s a video of the bolts sorry. I forgot to add this. Was thinking of running a “chaser”. Whatever that is.
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Chaser is just a tap, I would go with the bottoming type just be very careful towards the bottom, you just wanna clean out the threads, not make new ones..
Run out would be the warpage of the item being measured
 
When I put the flywheel on, do I want to use loctite and arp lube? Some people say only use the lube, others say use loctite. Would I be okay without the loctite and only using the lube?

Is there supposed to be a dowel in the crank? to locate the flywheel?
That is exactly what I was looking at. That dowel on the crank is gone, I never saw it either. I’m not surprised it broke off with how loose the wheel was.
 
I don't want to be discouraging, but I think you need to take this car to a trans shop and have someone install it. Clutch needs to be aligned before installing trans, and if there is no locating dowel the problem wont go away for long.

This car will need a new crank if this problem isnt fixed
 
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