Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[RubyEclipse]

Do i need a restrictors? And is anything flared that i need to know about so I don’t crush whatever it may be?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

No flares on banjo fittings, just a crush washer on both sides of the fitting.
Here is an example of what could be used.....

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[RubyEclipse]

No flares on banjo fittings, just a crush washer on both sides of the fitting.
Here is an example of what could be used.....

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Awesome, I did just got ahead and buy this. It’s a 36” steel braided for turbo feed line. Then I got a M12 x 1.25 adapter to 4AN and another M10 x 1.0 adapter for a 4AN, does this sound good and like all I need? It all gets here tomorrow so im very happy.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@19Eclipse90 , could you confirm the thread size needed? I don't know the head fitting size. He is getting a M12x1.0 fitting and a M12x1.25 fitting for going with AN line.
@RubyEclipse That 36" AN line is going to be super long if you are going to feed from the head. FYI
That length is usually the one that you can run from the OFH, as it is much farther away from the turbo oil feed. It will work but it's gonna be long.
Thanks!

 

[19Eclipse90]

The head feed port is M10x1.25, not M10x1.00. The turbo feed inlet is M12x1.25.

Something like this from ExtremePSI which comes with everything to completely bolt it up would be the route I choose. Anything similar from any supporting vendors would be fine.

Again, moving the feed line to the head from the oil filter housing, the originally feed line should be removed at the oil filter housing and the housing plugged with a 3/8” BSPT plug, like this.

 

[RubyEclipse]

The head feed port is M10x1.25, not M10x1.00. The turbo feed inlet is M12x1.25.

Something like this from ExtremePSI which comes with everything to completely bolt it up would be the route I choose. Anything similar from any supporting vendors would be fine.

Again, moving the feed line to the head from the oil filter housing, the originally feed line should be removed at the oil filter housing and the housing plugged with a 3/8” BSPT plug, like this.

I was told it was M10 by 1.0 so that’s what I bought, but I did buy a 1.25 just in case. And I took the hose size down to 18” just in case 12 was too short I didn’t want to return it. But I agree with @1990TSIAWDTALON 36 was way too much, I forgot im going to the head, not the filter.

 

[DreamChaser7]

you can spray it with wd 40 while you wait. ATF will clean it up when you're ready and some brakeclean. wd stands for water dispersant. Even if you get a tiny bit of flash rust it won't hurt it. Liberal WD40 will stop it. You just have to clean it all up when you assemble. It will be tedious.
Just for refererence what all did the machine shop do as far as machining? Just a surface? I assume they did not bore the cylinders, just a hone. Did you notice your head dowels are likely now gone and need to be replaced? By the way when you cleaned it you should have removed those.

I just can’t get caught up on this thread, . I have a question here; when I get my block back from machine shop how do I go about prepping, degreasing, painting block without shiny parts rusting? Obviously you can’t do all that, including masking with wd40 all over everything…

 

[RubyEclipse]

So I finally got the parts in, the M12 does not fit my turbo. I cannot get it to thread at all, no matter what I do. The M10s just fall right through and doesn’t spin in because they’re too small. Is there a possible M11 or is this an aftermarket turbo, therefore uses standard sizing?

 

[19Eclipse90]

It’s not a standard MHI housing, then.

M11 does exist.

M10 = 0.394” nominal diameter
M11 = 0.433”
M12 = 0.472”

If it’s standard, about your only bet is 7/16” which is 0.438” nominal diameter.

I’d recommend going to your local hardware store, buying a M11 x 1.25mm pitch bolt, a 7/16” - 14 bolt, and perhaps even a 7/16” - 20 bolt and seeing what fits.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It’s not a standard MHI housing, then.

M11 does exist.

M10 = 0.394” nominal diameter
M11 = 0.433”
M12 = 0.472”

If it’s standard, about your only bet is 7/16” which is 0.438” nominal diameter.

I’d recommend going to your local hardware store, buying a M11 x 1.25mm pitch bolt, a 7/16” - 14 bolt, and perhaps even a 7/16” - 20 bolt and seeing what fits.

Ok I’ll go pick these up and see what works and will fit. Thank you.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It’s not a standard MHI housing, then.

M11 does exist.

M10 = 0.394” nominal diameter
M11 = 0.433”
M12 = 0.472”

If it’s standard, about your only bet is 7/16” which is 0.438” nominal diameter.

I’d recommend going to your local hardware store, buying a M11 x 1.25mm pitch bolt, a 7/16” - 14 bolt, and perhaps even a 7/16” - 20 bolt and seeing what fits.

I couldn’t find an M11 that would be here in time so I got a 7/16 and hopefully if Amazon’s telling the truth, I’ll have it tomorrow. No matter what I did that 12 would just not spin. It just sat on the top. Got the other adapter fitted up, just waiting on this last piece and praying, I will have my very much missed car.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I think this is another case of a Chinese 16g. Not BASHING it, just saying, sometimes just one off or anything to get past copyrights and patents.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I think this is another case of a Chinese 16g. Not BASHING it, just saying, sometimes just one off or anything to get past copyrights and patents.

Dang it. Well that sucks I’m not gonna lie.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Oh, we'll figure it out. Could you take a picture of the turbo oil feed hole for us to look at? And anything else you deem pertanent to the leak?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Oh, we'll figure it out. Could you take a picture of the turbo oil feed hole for us to look at? And anything else you deem pertanent to the leak?

I haven’t really had this car up and running with this new set up long enough to be sure in all honesty. I just know I fired it how with that oil line and watched it shoot absolutely everywhere, very fast. Of course I will be looking at checking, I have the bottom filter housing plugged up from the old spot, and the new line in. Just waiting on the adapter that’ll hopefully be here tomorrow and we can see if I got more leaks anywhere. I can’t get very much closer to the hole, is this alright to see?

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[Justin DuBois]

Last time I was looking for an M11x1.25, I was trying to replace a seat belt mounting bolt - which is not M11. Safety standards require Standard thread: 7/16 - 20

Never seen that on a turbo before.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Last time I was looking for an M11x1.25, I was trying to replace a seat belt mounting bolt - which is not M11. Safety standards require Standard thread: 7/16 - 20

Never seen that on a turbo before.

I went ahead and got the 7/16ths fitting. Hopefully it is the correct one.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Some sizes are trickier than others. But if you haven't already, invest in some thread gauges. I pull them out much more than I ever thought I would.

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[RubyEclipse]

So the 7/16ths did not work either, sort of. It fit the car and tightened down. But towards the end of it tightening it will just keep spinning. It doesn’t stop, even at the end of the bolt, it’ll catch for a second, and then keep spinning. Very annoying. It’ll pop back every time. What should I do?

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[Justin DuBois]

So the 7/16ths did not work either, sort of. It fit the car and tightened down. But towards the end of it tightening it will just keep spinning. It doesn’t stop, even at the end of the bolt, it’ll catch for a second, and then keep spinning. Very annoying. It’ll pop back every time. What should I do?

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At this point, you need to inspect the threads in the turbo cartridge - and run a tap to clean it up. Can you remove the turbo to get good access to the port on the top?

 

[RubyEclipse]

At this point, you need to inspect the threads in the turbo cartridge - and run a tap to clean in up. Can you remove the turbo to get good access to the port on the top?

Ahh man, I really really do not want too. if I have too I will, but man that’s gonna suck.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ahh man, I really really do not want too. if I have too I will, but man that’s gonna suck.

I know - it sucks - it just would be so much worse if it sorta fits and kinda seals - and then it doesn't - smoke - possibly fire from the oil leak, and the turbo will self destruct, risking the main bearings if you starve the engine of oil.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I know - it sucks - it just would be so much worse if it sorta fits and kinda seals - and then it doesn't - smoke - possibly fire from the oil leak, and the turbo will self destruct, risking the main bearings if you starve the engine of oil.

Yeah, no that is definitely true. It would be much much worse to have something that bad happen, I’ve bought one more possible fitting. If this one does not work I will be taking it all out again. I bought an M11 fitting to 4AN, praying this one works and I won’t have to do much more work, I will let you all know if it does fit or not.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I think and hope, I will have more luck with this M11. It’s a 1.0 and there seems to be many threads in the turbo so I am hoping. Is there anything you cause think I should do while I’m waiting?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I think and hope, I will have more luck with this M11. It’s a 1.0 and there seems to be many threads in the turbo so I am hoping. Is there anything you cause think I should do while I’m waiting?

Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a thread gauge, so you can measure metric and standard threads. M11x1.0 is very odd for these cars.