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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Where are you feeding your turbo oil from? The oil filter housing or the head? Stock, it comes from the head and has a banjo bolt with a crush washer on the top and bottom and goes thru a circular fitting to feed oil.
 
I don't do many 7 bolts so IDK about a block feed but the issue is the feed line. It is not the proper end.
 
Thanks Brian. His issue is the end of the feed line. I haven't seen one that had a flare fitting and I don't think his turbo uses one. Pretty sure a banjo bolt adaptor or fitting will fix the oil leak problem.
 
The 2G (rather, the T-25) did not use a banjo bolt for the oil feed at the turbo. That fitting / line looks like the original for the car.

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If it’s an MHI turbo now, then the fitting is incorrect.
 

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I bet you are spot on there!
Not having a 2g to look at anymore, I shouldn't have assumed they went together the same way. Dam. So, let's talk about the flare on that tube. Could that be compromised or only a single flare as opposed to a double (or bubble) flare end?
I think that's what I am trying to help out with, the fitting, since it seems to be the issue of the leak.
Any Idea on that Brian?
Thanks for the clarification too! 👍
Pops
 
Related: Turbo Oil Feed Line Leaking Help

The 2G line uses an 1/4” inverted flare fitting to the turbo. The 1Gs and similar MHI turbos use the Metric banjo bolt and fitting with two crush washers. I’m not going to dive into them being different types of seals. The thread sizes alone (one 1/4” and one Metric) should be evident enough that it won’t seal properly.

Reading back, the turbo was swapped for a 16G. I’d suggest a 1G style feed from the head to seal it up. If that’s an aftermarket braided line, it may not have banjo fitting at the turbo end. So long as the threads are right, it shouldn’t be a problem.
 
Where are you feeding your turbo oil from? The oil filter housing or the head? Stock, it comes from the head and has a banjo bolt with a crush washer on the top and bottom and goes thru a circular fitting to feed oil.
I’m feeder from the filter housing, it was just where I originally had found this line. I haven’t moved it or anything. Just replaced the line.

Clearing this up: 2G turbos are originally fed oil from the oil filter housing.

1G turbos are fed oil from the head. Generally, when using a MHI style turbo like those found on the 1G, feeding from the head is the better solution.
Perfect, thank you.

The 2G (rather, the T-25) did not use a banjo bolt for the oil feed at the turbo. That fitting / line looks like the original for the car.

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If it’s an MHI turbo now, then the fitting is incorrect.
Got it, perfect. Then what is the correct fitting? Because you’re correct, this fitting is for my old turbo.

Related: Turbo Oil Feed Line Leaking Help

The 2G line uses an 1/4” inverted flare fitting to the turbo. The 1Gs and similar MHI turbos use the Metric banjo bolt and fitting with two crush washers. I’m not going to dive into them being different types of seals. The thread sizes alone (one 1/4” and one Metric) should be evident enough that it won’t seal properly.

Reading back, the turbo was swapped for a 16G. I’d suggest a 1G style feed from the head to seal it up. If that’s an aftermarket braided line, it may not have banjo fitting at the turbo end. So long as the threads are right, it shouldn’t be a problem.
So should I get a metric banjo style fitting? And if so, what size of bolt and thread pitch?
 
The original is a M12 x 1.25 mm pitch x 23 mm long. The length is only relevant if you go with the original style of fitting / feed line.

Make sure it’s M12 x 1.25 at the turbo.
I don’t think it is, I’ll just start by that. It’s the same that fits into the filter housing I’m almost positive which I think is actually an M8. I will double check, but I do not think the hole is that big.
 
The original is a M12 x 1.25 mm pitch x 23 mm long. The length is only relevant if you go with the original style of fitting / feed line.

Make sure it’s M12 x 1.25 at the turbo.
You were absolutely correct. It is much much bigger on the actual fitting. I have mistaken, don’t know why I doubted someone with many more years. 😂 I was wondering, since I already have this pipe made, can I get one of those reducers? A M8 or whatever my pipe is to an M12? Since the banjo bolt is not jic or sae angled? Or is it and I need a new pipe? I thought the bolt I was shown by @1990TSIAWDTALON was a bolt with a flat bottom, or was it inverted flared?
 
If you can find one, sure.

Still, the oil pressure at / from the oil filter housing is generally too high for MHI journal bearing turbos without a restrictor which can lead to leakage or smoking.
 
If it were me, I would feed from the head with a new line. If that new line uses a banjo fitting at the turbo, so be it. As a straight thread, crush washers would be required to seal so make sure those are included and installed properly.

Going this route, the oil filter housing feed would need to be plugged as well. If it were me, I would remove the original feed lines and use a 3/8” BSPT plug at the housing itself.
 
And you can get a restrictor, if needed, when feeding from the higher pressure oil filter housing location. The head feed point has a lower pressure already. You don't want to give it so much oil that it slows the rotation and so it doesn't fill up your drain line so no more oil can possibly drain out. That is why @19Eclipse90 spoke about it (I think, so correct me if I am wrong Brian).
Pops
 
And you can get a restrictor, if needed, when feeding from the higher pressure oil filter housing location. The head feed point has a lower pressure already. You don't want to give it so much oil that it slows the rotation and so it doesn't fill up your drain line so no more oil can possibly drain out. That is why @19Eclipse90 spoke about it (I think, so correct me if I am wrong Brian).
Pops
I don’t mind feeding out of either one, I was just trying to go back to stock. But, where the port is for the bead I can use it too. I want to go to a hose shop today, could you guys tell me exactly what I need to make? Just exactly what I need to ask them for. And where is this port for the head?
 
Exhaust side of the head, above and to the right of the thermostat housing. See the bolt I am pointing at. It is a plug for the oil feed.
That fitting uses a crush washer also.
Pops

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Exhaust side of the head, above and to the right of the thermostat housing. See the bolt I am pointing at. It is a plug for the oil feed.
Pops

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Oh yes the plug i didn’t plug up last time, and shot oil everywhere. I remember it. 😂 so can I just use the same hose I’ve been using? I wanted to get a steel braided hose but the shop im next too doesn’t custom make them, only hydraulic hoses which is what I’ve been using and what’s been working great. I can switch but I just don’t know sizes, measurements and all that.
 
Here is a video on a stock, 1990 GSX.
The first 2 PICTURES that follow are from a modified 1990 TSI that show an adaptor fitting to an AN line from the head to the turbo for the feed. The last 2 are from the stock GSX. Maybe this will be helpful. Remember, these are all Metric fittings (BSPT).
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Here is a video on a stock, 1990 GSX.
The first 2 PICTURES that follow are from a modified 1990 TSI that show an adaptor fitting to an AN line from the head to the turbo for the feed. The last 2 are from the stock GSX. Maybe this will be helpful.
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Got it okay. Should i run an AN line then? Or keep it banjo and the metric sizes?
 
Your choice. ✌️
 
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