Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Since you already got to 80psi before it popped, did you hear air leaking? You just need enough pressure in the system so you can listen for leaks, and if necessary, use a mild soapy solution in a spray bottle - mist all of the coupler locations, vac hoses, and injector seal locations you can looking for bubbles.

^^^ Was just typing the same...Adding in to saturate the throttle body area too..

 

[RubyEclipse]

Since you already got to 80psi before it popped, did you hear air leaking? You just need enough pressure in the system so you can listen for leaks, and if necessary, use a mild soapy solution in a spray bottle - mist all of the coupler locations, vac hoses, and injector seal locations you can looking for bubbles.

I actually did not hear any. It did super super well. The coupling for the tester itself blew off before any whistling. so I think my system is holding up quite nicely.

^^^ Was just typing the same...Adding in to saturate the throttle body area too..

You got it. I found 2 spots, one was actually quite a bit large, covered them both and patched them. Now they have no leaks and she’s running stronger. Hopefully going to find my oil leak today by my turbo and exhaust. I think I need to reroute my clutch line, I think it’s getting too hot. It randomly started to stick halfway yesterday. It was doing good, and then started to stick.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I think my valve cover is compromised. I’m getting more and more suspicious of it being the problem for the leak. I also messed up, when I routed my clutch cable or line, I don’t see that it was rubbing against my alternator belt. I think it just sliced a hole clean through it and that’s why I’m losing pressure or why it’s sticking. I went and checked the reservoir which I had topped off, was not half to empty.

 

[RubyEclipse]

So I got the new speed sensor in, works great. Car was running amazing, took it for a few miles and it was solid. I took it to AutoZone to grab a clutch reservoir cap. And when I tried to leave, the car left me with this. Would barely start, and it would be super super low idle, and when I’d gas it, it would immediately die. My camshaft light keeps coming back on, got no idea why. It’s a new sensor. The wiring is good on it. I get my new clutch line in on Friday so I’ll throw that in, but I don’t want to take it anywhere If it will just die and I can’t go home. Any ideas, please let me know. Thank you all again!

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[Justin DuBois]

So I got the new speed sensor in, works great. Car was running amazing, took it for a few miles and it was solid. I took it to AutoZone to grab a clutch reservoir cap. And when I tried to leave, the car left me with this. Would barely start, and it would be super super low idle, and when I’d gas it, it would immediately die. My camshaft light keeps coming back on, got no idea why. It’s a new sensor. The wiring is good on it. I get my new clutch line in on Friday so I’ll throw that in, but I don’t want to take it anywhere If it will just die and I can’t go home. Any ideas, please let me know. Thank you all again!

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picture of problem sensor please, and what is the camshaft light? is it like a Check Engine light from the ECU, and you see the code in your software/logger?

 

[RubyEclipse]

picture of problem sensor please, and what is the camshaft light? is it like a Check Engine light from the ECU, and you see the code in your software/logger?

Yes, the check engine light is for my camshaft forgive me. How can I picture the problem for you? I do not know what the problem is. The light came on before, left by itself and ran great, now all the sudden it’s back. It’s done this a few times.

I’m going to boost leak test it again. I’m starting to think that could be culprit again.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

From the video, it sounds like a misfire on one or more cylinders. Misfire or lack of firing at all. Definitely not running at full capacity.

 

[RubyEclipse]

From the video, it sounds like a misfire on one or more cylinders. Misfire or lack of firing at all. Definitely not running at full capacity.

I absolutely agree, i definitely think it was miss firing. I first checked my spark plugs and fuel injectors, all seemed to be fine and plugged in?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Yes, the check engine light is for my camshaft forgive me. How can I picture the problem for you? I do not know what the problem is. The light came on before, left by itself and ran great, now all the sudden it’s back. It’s done this a few times.

I’m going to boost leak test it again. I’m starting to think that could be culprit again.

The ECU is helping dignose. Brand new CAM sensors from China have been know to barely work or just not work at all. I'm asking for a picture of your CAM sensor so we can see what kind it is (1G, 2Ga, 2Gb)

 

[RubyEclipse]

The ECU is helping dignose. Brand new CAM sensors from China have been know to barely work or just not work at all. I'm asking for a picture of your CAM sensor so we can see what kind it is (1G, 2Ga, 2Gb)

I bought it at oreilys.

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[Justin DuBois]

I bought it at oreilys.

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In the on head picture, the wires at the sensor looks bent and - is the insulation exposing wire on the blue wire? You can consider switching to a 2Gb style if the 2Ga sensors from Japan are hard to find. I would look for a true Mitsubishi part for the sensors.

 

[RubyEclipse]

In the on head picture, the wires at the sensor looks bent and is the insulation showing on the blue wire? You can consider switching to a 2Gb style if the 2Ga sensors from Japan are hard to find. I would look for a true Mitsubishi part for the sensors.

Okay, sounds good. I will replace it. Where should I get a real sensor from?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Okay, sounds good. I will replace it. Where should I get a real sensor from?

This appears to be the Mitsubishi Electric part number ($130)
W0133-1619611. Mitsubishi part number MD300102 is the 2Ga cam sensor.

If you switch to the 2GB style MIT-23731W000P (Mitsubishi part number MD327107), you can get a good sensor for less ($80), but you need a housing with the CAM adaptor trigger - and you need to enable the "use non 95/96 CAS" checkbox in ECM link to setup the injector sequence.

And where to buy? Use those part numbers on a Google search, and Summit racing or STM, or other known DSM shops are good sources.

 

[RubyEclipse]

This appears to be the Mitsubishi Electric part number ($130)
W0133-1619611. Mitsubishi part number MD300102 is the 2Ga cam sensor.

If you switch to the 2GB style MIT-23731W000P (Mitsubishi part number MD327107), you can get a good sensor for less ($80), but you need a housing with the CAM adaptor trigger - and you need to enable the "use non 95/96 CAS" checkbox in ECM link to setup the injector sequence.

And where to buy? Use those part numbers on a Google search, and Summit racing or STM, or other known DSM shops are good sources.

Man those are expensive. My head actually came with that original set up when I bought it, but I chucked it all since none of it fit my car. The cables didn’t reach, plus I knew where mine was at. Probably not a good idea to throw it all in now realizing.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Man those are expensive. My head actually came with that original set up when I bought it, but I chucked it all since none of it fit my car. The cables didn’t reach, plus I knew where mine was at. Probably not a good idea to throw it all in now realizing.

You could try another one from O'reilly's if the one you have has tortured wires - if you want to roll the dice.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I am so excited to show you guys the car i am going to build. I went to go get my valve cover from a guy I was told had literally enough parts to build like 20 dsms from the ground up. And they were not lying… the amount of boxes, parts literally everything I could ever need. I grabbed my new valve cover, i got an intercooler set, with a build in 1g bov. Looks amazing by the way. And then i even got, wait for it…. An entire turbo exhaust manifold. I got a new to me, 16G small, the manifold, down pipe literally everything. Picked it all up for 400. And man i am so so juice for this car!!! It’s gonna be absolutely beautiful to see it all together can’t wait to show you all.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Alrighty, did my first start up today. Did not go quite as planned, as nothing has with this car. but, she does sounds decently good. I know I have a big leak with my turbo return line. But, it’s making a bad ticking noise. I was told by a guy that the turbo was not blown. I even felt the rod shaft and it was really good, better than mine even. No play at all, but this ticking is loud, and does not sound good. It’s choppy because I forgot my MAF sensor plug. I’ll show you guys the problem im having with my return line, the bolt snapped to the turbo, and I drilled it out and tried to put a new thread in, but I must have not gone deep enough. The holes don’t match up because the one I drilled it slightly to the right. Still fits and all, but I don’t think I tightened it well enough. BUT CHECK OUT HOW SICK MY CAR LOOKS!!!!! I have not been this excited in a long time!!

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[Justin DuBois]

Alrighty, did my first start up today. Did not go quite as planned, as nothing has with this car. but, she does sounds decently good. I know I have a big leak with my turbo return line. But, it’s making a bad ticking noise. I was told by a guy that the turbo was not blown. I even felt the rod shaft and it was really good, better than mine even. No play at all, but this ticking is loud, and does not sound good. It’s choppy because I forgot my MAF sensor plug. I’ll show you guys the problem im having with my return line, the bolt snapped to the turbo, and I drilled it out and tried to put a new thread in, but I must have not gone deep enough. The holes don’t match up because the one I drilled it slightly to the right. Still fits and all, but I don’t think I tightened it well enough. BUT CHECK OUT HOW SICK MY CAR LOOKS!!!!! I have not been this excited in a long time!!

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It lives! Not sure what ticking you can hear over that open exhaust, but I'm glad you are making progress. What did you end up doing with the CAM sensor?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I can hear that ticking and it is very repetitive. It doesn't sound like a rod but reminds me of a bad lifter tick. Not sure where it is coming from.
I didn't see SMOKE so good things are happening.
Pops

 

[RubyEclipse]

It lives! Not sure what ticking you can hear over that open exhaust, but I'm glad you are making progress. What did you end up doing with the CAM sensor?

She does indeed live!!! I don’t know exactly why the exhaust was so loud, it had the down pipe and everything connected? But man she was loud. I have no decided what to do with the cam sensor, it’s been running, and starting good so I haven’t done anything quite yet.

I can hear that ticking and it is very repetitive. It doesn't sound like a rod but reminds me of a bad lifter tick. Not sure where it is coming from.
I didn't see SMOKE so good things are happening.
Pops

I was thinking lifters too. It is a very rhythmic clicking. Plus the cars being out of oil for a bit so I’m thinking it’s dry or something? I didn’t see any smoke either, but it wasn’t running for super long so we will see. Thank you guys!!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Hell, we fired up an old Honda that had sat for 12 years. Had to fix the rusty gas tank then move forward. When it FIRST started (after a new tune up and never ran in 12 years), that thing smoked SOOO bad that you absolutely could not see the car from the rear. After driving it on a few long drives, it now smokes for a few seconds on start up and is good to go. 214000 on its ticker. If we can cure that loud tick you have (which will also be picked up by your knock sensor) I think you'll be in pretty good shape! Really good job.
Pops

 

[RubyEclipse]

Hell, we fired up an old Honda that had sat for 12 years. Had to fix the rusty gas tank then move forward. When it FIRST started (after a new tune up and never ran in 12 years), that thing smoked SOOO bad that you absolutely could not see the car from the rear. After driving it on a few long drives, it now smokes for a few seconds on start up and is good to go. 214000 on its ticker. If we can cure that loud tick you have (which will also be picked up by your knock sensor) I think you'll be in pretty good shape! Really good job.
Pops

Thank you so much c means so so so much coming from you.

 

[RubyEclipse]

So I got the drain port fixed, it’s not leaking, however. On top of that is flooding it. I mean it’s a bad leak. That tick is still there and it doesn’t sound great. But I can only start it for a few seconds before I get worried of locking it up. I am almost positive it’s where the oil line meets the turbo. I don’t think this turbo is blown or spilt or anything, but the car sounds like a Harley, it definitely did not sound like that before. Is that purely from the down pipe? It used to sound like that when I had it straight piped not with everything connected.

This is the line, I’m wondering if it’s something to do with the JIC or whatever stuff. I’m thinking whatever I have connected, is not the right one. Therefore it just leaks no matter what. What do you guys think? And what should I do now?

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I’ve pulled it out, it’s a simple flared end. Is it supposed to matter if it’s JIC or SAE? I don’t really understand what those even mean.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I think your turbo feed line is wrong and you need the correct fitting. All of my turbos use a banjo bolt fitting with crush washers (as stock) or have an adaptor fitting to attach an AN line to. I went out and took some pictures for you to ponder. Both styles use crush washers to seal against the turbo CHRA.
Pops

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[RubyEclipse]

I think your turbo feed line is wrong and you need the correct fitting. All of my turbos use a banjo bolt fitting with crush washers (as stock) or have an adaptor fitting to attach an AN line to. I went out and took some pictures for you to ponder. Both styles use crush washers to seal against the turbo CHRA.
Pops

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Awesome, got it. I did not know they were supposed to be banjo style, I just used this one, and it fit perfectly for my old turbo. So I don’t need to know about the fitting size since you had the jic or whatever into the hose? Looks pretty simple to me. I will see if I can grab one of those pieces today, am I gonna have to cut the end of my house to put the new end on?