Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Would that be a leak in the line or something?

Mine was due to lack of proper adjustment and air still in the line.

 

[Justin DuBois]

It would make sense I tried my best to make a working on since I couldn’t find or afford one. But it obviously did not work. Is there anything else that could be you think?

Throttle closed position switch? - If that is always closed while driving, you would hit fuel cut at about that RPM, cause the ECU thinks you trying to hold idle.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Throttle closed position switch? - If that is always closed while driving, you would hit fuel cut at about that RPM, cause the ECU thinks you trying to hold idle.

What is that? The throttle close position switch? It does seem like I am hitting a fuel cut. I also think there’s some boost leaks though for sure.

Mine was due to lack of proper adjustment and air still in the line.

Oh got it got it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

What is that? The throttle close position switch? It does seem like I am hitting a fuel cut. I also think there’s some boost leaks though for sure.

On a 2G, the closed position switch is built into the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the throttle body. 2G have a 4 wire sensor (switch included) , and 1G's have a 3 wire sensor (no switch). Incidentally, stock 1G has a closed position switch, but it is not integrated in to the TPS sensor - it sits on the other side of the butterfly with one wire connecting to it, and is used as part of the throttle plate close stop. You need to see how many pins are in your TPS sensor plug and then adjust the sensor position so the "switch" is closed when the throttle is closed, and open when when the throttle is cracked open.

 

[RubyEclipse]

On a 2G, the closed position switch is built into the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the throttle body. 2G have a 4 wire sensor (switch included) , and 1G's have a 3 wire sensor (no switch). Incidentally, stock 1G has a closed position switch, but it is not integrated in to the TPS sensor - it sits on the other side of the butterfly with one wire connecting to it, and is used as part of the throttle plate close stop. You need to see how many pins are in your TPS sensor plug and then adjust the sensor position so the "switch" is closed when the throttle is closed, and open when when the throttle is cracked open.

Okay got it. How do I fix it or not? Or find out when it’s open or closed?

Where does the brake booster hose connect to? I couldn’t quite figure it out. And why does my engine shake so so badly and violently. All motor mounts are in, and bolted down. I was testing my gears with the front end up, and man was it was just shaking horribly in 5th gear.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Where does the brake booster hose connect to? I couldn’t quite figure it out. And why does my engine shake so so badly and violently. All motor mounts are in, and bolted down. I was testing my gears with the front end up, and man was it was just shaking horribly in 5th gear.

Full droop running through the gears is not so great on the axles - terrible alignment.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Full droop running through the gears is not so great on the axles - terrible alignment.

oh whoops, I had not known that, good to know though. I will not be doing that anymore. The anighment part makes sense, I just put a new tie rod end on. And yes, I did count all of the full rotations.

 

[RamenPride]

Okay got it. How do I fix it or not? Or find out when it’s open or closed?

2G - TPS adjustment

Ok so reading around the forum i collected this info:The whole purpose of adjusting the TPS on a 2G is to make sure that the Idle Position Switch inside the TPS is telling the ECU when the throttle is closed. 2G's critical adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS.The...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[19Eclipse90]

Where does the brake booster hose connect to? I couldn’t quite figure it out.

Highlighted line from intake manifold (real picture) to brake booster (diagram).

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[RubyEclipse]

Highlighted line from intake manifold (real picture) to brake booster (diagram).

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You’re a savior. Thank you.

Got the booster hose hooked up, my brakes now work correctly. I did the TPS, but I think i tightened it justtttt to much. Whenever I let off just barely whole car jolts cause it’s no longer giving it gas. Great news. It runs and drives, almost as well as it did before if not almost better. I have a few kinks and we should be absolutely golden!! I need a new VSS because I cannot see how fast I am going, I also need to figure out was making a horrid clanking noise, and almost hitting something it feels like on the passenger side when I turn. I also am definitely burning something, I want to say oil, but it smells differently than oil I think. It’s onto the exhaust manifold, I’ve been seeing it. It’s just dripping down onto stuff down there. The oil filter is covered, so is my turbo feed line, and really everything else down there.

I am just so stoked at it, I am so close to having the clutch fully bled, just needs a little bit more. I can shift, but man it feels like 30 pounds I’m just pulling towards me. Idle seems a tad low, when I press the pedal just barely it skyrockets though. Other than that, I’m absolutely stoked!!! It’s running again boys!!!!

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Got the booster hose hooked up, my brakes now work correctly. I did the TPS, but I think i tightened it justtttt to much. Whenever I let off just barely whole car jolts cause it’s no longer giving it gas. Great news. It runs and drives, almost as well as it did before if not almost better. I have a few kinks and we should be absolutely golden!! I need a new VSS because I cannot see how fast I am going, I also need to figure out was making a horrid clanking noise, and almost hitting something it feels like on the passenger side when I turn. I also am definitely burning something, I want to say oil, but it smells differently than oil I think. It’s onto the exhaust manifold, I’ve been seeing it. It’s just dripping down onto stuff down there. The oil filter is covered, so is my turbo feed line, and really everything else down there.

Nice man.. that’s great news..!! Dude, you’ll have quite a few things to iron out, then it’s boost city..
As someone said earlier, it’s 20+ years old and there’s gonna be lots of things to replace,(s as I found out), piece at a time .. right on buddy

 

[RubyEclipse]

What’s your guys best way to figure out an oil leak? I’m curious. It seems my is decently quick. I mean Im trying to find it, but it’s very hard. Seems like it’s in between my exhaust manifold and turbo feed lines. Something like that, it’s dripping all over my oil filter, I’m thinking turbo lines, but I’m not sure. I just know the whole line seems soaked yk?

My idle is also way weird right now. It’s very off. Took it out out gear to just cruise and it died. If I left it to idle for too long the rpm’s just flew around up and down, then dies. It’s weird. It’s fighting itself it seems like, I’m thinking it’s got to be something with that air, fuel, mixture.

Idle is shot for some reason. In 5th gear, put in the clutch and it died. I will get a video of the idle tomorrow. It’s decently rough, it can’t hold a steady idle for to long, then when the car gets warmer, the idle gets worse and it dies much much faster.

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I think it’s my TPS is why it’s like this, but I can’t really figure it out. i think I have to spin it a certain way I think I read. But it just will not idle.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Idle is shot for some reason. In 5th gear, put in the clutch and it died. I will get a video of the idle tomorrow. It’s decently rough, it can’t hold a steady idle for to long, then when the car gets warmer, the idle gets worse and it dies much much faster.

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Dude, there is TONS OF INFO on this site.. it’s pretty tricky, my car does that same thing.. runs really good with 10 lbs of boost but all of a sudden it won’t idle.. me thinks it is the ICS, or TPS.. I’m with ya

 

[pauleyman]

If it ran correctly before and you didnt move anything I would suspect a leak. Did you boost leak check it? Is the BOV recirculated?

 

[RubyEclipse]

If it ran correctly before and you didnt move anything I would suspect a leak. Did you boost leak check it? Is the BOV recirculated?

I can check, I did not do a boost leak test. The one I made I don’t think work. The BOV is recirculating. I am just thinking the TPS because I messed with it and am trying to figure it out. I don’t know if I did it correctly.

 

[pauleyman]

I can check, I did not do a boost leak test. The one I made I don’t think work. The BOV is recirculating. I am just thinking the TPS because I messed with it and am trying to figure it out. I don’t know if I did it correctly.

Reasonable enough. Show us your leak tester. Do you have a compressor big enough to run it?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Reasonable enough. Show us your leak tester. Do you have a compressor big enough to run it?

Yes, I think so. It’s a 3 gallon?

I have tried to fix the TPS, it’s back to running at .5V then jumps (smoothly) to 4.85V. So it think it’s good, the screw is tightened down and in place, keeping a steady idle of 850. I had running and driving decently nice, until I tried to go to the gas station. I was getting there fine, pulled it, pushed in the clutch, watched my rpm meter do its weird thing, go up and down and then die. I sat in this gas station trying to start it up, and it took forever not going to lie. At least 10 seconds of cranking. So I went to the correct pump, filled it up, and after 5 mins of pumping, car fires right up. Like new. Trying to drive home, if I was going slowly and push in my clutch at all, it would die immediately. I’d have to bump start it the whole way home, could barely stop at stop signs. I rolled through all of them, but it’s so late and in the country there’s no one around. Really wanted it for the first day of school, but this car really hates me and wants rest. if you guys have any suggestions of what to do or try, please let me know. This has been stupidly hard trying to get it to just idle correctly, and not die. I tried starting it just a few minutes ago to go down the road after messing with my clutch button under the dash, and I couldn’t even get it to start. I barely tried to honest because at that point everyone was asleep. Would love help, thank you all.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I can check, I did not do a boost leak test. The one I made I don’t think work. The BOV is recirculating. I am just thinking the TPS because I messed with it and am trying to figure it out. I don’t know if I did it correctly.

Idling the car is fine but i really wouldnt try to drive this car without doing the boost leak test because it could leave u stranded if its bad enough.. its mandatory for you right now. Like i said in a previous post, you removed the engine..even experienced guys are gonna miss something and are going to need to do one in that scenario. Did you inspect the injector seals when you put the injectors back in? Thats a potential leak if u didnt inspect/replace them. Get the orientation wrong or even forget one of the throttle body gaskets? Thats another one. Cant see the cuts in a brand ne, but defective silicone vacuum hose unless you bend it? Happened to me twice in the last couple of months....

Whats going on with the tester that its not working? Does it not hold any air? Might be working just fine, but u have a leak or leaks that are so bad that the air just runs out quickly and makes the tester seem like its not working..Happened to me on a new tester and i thought it was broken, but turned out my upper ic pipe had a mysterious huge hole in the underside of the pipe so the air was just flowing out at such a high rate that the needle was barely moving. Leaks might not be your only issue but guarantee you have a few and can almost guarentee itll clear up some issues.

Also, dont mess with the BISS screw if you have leaks and bad TPS. You just be chasing a phantom idle

Connect the air source to the tester while its off the car and make sure air is coming through. Then connect it and tighten it to your turbo, take a spray bottle with some dish soap, spray around the area where you connected it and give the tester some air... If there are no bubbles coming from the area, then the tester is probably good and you start listening around the engine bay for escaping air. Follow the ic piping up to the throttle body and the back around across the intake manifold and injector areas... Probably no need to start spraying soap yet cause youre likely looking for huge leak. If its not filling, then its escaping. Youll probably be able to feel it if the leak is big enough

 

[RubyEclipse]

Idling the car is fine but i really wouldnt try to drive this car without doing the boost leak test. its manatory for you right now. Like i said in a previous post, you removed the engine..even experienced guys are gonna miss something and are going to need to do one in that scenario. Did you inspect the injector seals when you put the injectors back in? Thats a potential leak if u didnt inspect/replace them. Get the orientation wrong or even forget one of the throttle body gaskets? Thats another one. Cant see the cuts in a brand new silicone vacuum hose unless you bend it? Happened to me twice in the last couple of months....

Whats going on with the tester that its not working? Does it not hold any air? Might be working just fine, but u have a leak or leaks that are so bad that the air just runs out quickly and makes the tester seem like its not working..Happened to me on a new tester and i thought it was broken, but turned out my upper ic pipe had a mysterious huge hole in the underside of the pipe so the air was just flowing out at such a high rate that the needle was barely moving. Leaks might not be your only issue but guarantee you have a few and can almost guarentee itll clear up some issues.

Also, dont mess with the BISS screw if you have leaks and bad TPS. You just be chasing a phantom idle

I will boost leak test it, I’ll send pictures of my tester.

Connect the air source to the tester while its off the car and make sure air is coming through. Then connect it and tighten it to your turbo, take a spray bottle with some dish soap, spray around the area where you connected it and give the tester some air... If there are no bubbles coming from the area, then the tester is probably good and you start listening around the engine bay for escaping air. Follow the ic piping up to the throttle body and the back around across the intake manifold and injector areas... Probably no need to start spraying soap yet cause youre likely looking for huge leak. If its not filling, then its escaping. Youll probably be able to feel it if the leak is big enough

Got it. I will definitely do this when I am home, thank you. Would a boost leak cause it to die just when putting my clutch in? It idles pretty good, but after it dies, it’s a painnnn to start.

I will do this all when I get home, I’ll make sure to check and see for leaks. I haven’t heard anything quite yet. There’s a very very small one from a solenoid at the top of my intake manifold. I’m still trying to find new ones. I think my main leak would be along my intercooler piping to the BOV the metal pipe I’ve been using is a tad hard to make fit with the rubber fitting. It either pops off or is cutting my air in half.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I hooked up my tester, turns out @pauleyman and @SixBolt_16G were correct. The tester worked really well, I had 2 leaks, both were holes in metal. No idea when, how, or why they’re there. One super small on in the upper part of the IC and one decently sized one on my new to me 1G BOV. It did super well, held like 80 ft pounds of pressure before the tester itself blew off. I am still burning oil, my guess is that it’s coming from my turbo line, now I’m almost positive of it, because of how much is dripping and getting everywhere. I know those lines shoot lots of pressure and keep a high PSI. The car is still doing some weird stuff, my cam sensor keeps throwing a code, P0340. It’s a new sensor and I never had this problem before so I don’t think it’s really the sensor to be honest. My clutch pedal after working pretty nicely, decided to start sticking halfway and I have to pull it back up while driving. Still am trying to find and buy a VSS for my manual trans. Cars doing decently well besides that in all honesty. Running pretty smooth, there are some rough start ups every now and then, and it idles pretty low sometimes.

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[SixBolt_16G]

It did super well, held like 80 ft pounds of pressure before the tester itself blew off.

Hold on a sec...Ive never dealt with anything other than PSI for boost leak test and really hope youre not trying to hold 80 psi...You should be holding 15 psi.. Can you confiirm or post a pic of the gauge youre using

 

[RubyEclipse]

Hold on a sec...Ive never dealt with anything other than PSI for boost leak test and really hope youre not trying to hold 80 psi...You should be holding 15 psi.. Can you confiirm or post a pic of the gauge youre using

Yes, no one said too much psi like that was bad, is it? I just was pumpin whatever my tank let me. It was about 60-80. I don’t remember the exact number. No one said how much to do, was just thinkin it should hold a lot. Thought they held a ton of boost?

This is my gauge.

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[19Eclipse90]

If your compressor as a dial pressure gauge on it, look for a knob (big) to turn. The knob typically sets the pressure in the hose. Turn the knob down until you have 20 psi on the dial on the compressor.

Granted, it was in March, but this post told you to turn down the regulator on your compressor for a boost leak test.

A boost leak test is meant to ensure that your engine / system remains sealed when the turbo spools and increases the air pressure entering the engine. Everyone will have their own rule for what boost leak test pressure is good enough, but 5-10psi above the maximum boost pressure you intend to run is where you need to test.

If you’re stock, for example, stock boost is 11-14 psi so testing at 20 psi should be sufficient. If there are no leaks at 20 psi, there won’t be leaks at lower pressures, either.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Granted, it was in March, but this post told you to turn down the regulator on your compressor for a boost leak test.

A boost leak test is meant to ensure that your engine / system remains sealed when the turbo spools and increases the air pressure entering the engine. Everyone will have their own rule for what boost leak test pressure is good enough, but 5-10psi above the maximum boost pressure you intend to run is where you need to test.

If you’re stock, for example, stock boost is 11-14 psi so testing at 20 psi should be sufficient. If there are no leaks at 20 psi, there won’t be leaks at lower pressures, either.

Okay, I stand corrected. This one is on me then, I will turn it down to regulate it. I am sorry about that one. That makes sense, I will run it at 20 psi and not do anymore than that. Thank you very much.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Okay, I stand corrected. This one is on me then, I will turn it down to regulate it. I am sorry about that one. That makes sense, I will run it at 20 psi and not do anymore than that. Thank you very much.

Since you already got to 80psi before it popped, did you hear air leaking? You just need enough pressure in the system so you can listen for leaks, and if necessary, use a mild soapy solution in a spray bottle - mist all of the coupler locations, vac hoses, and injector seal locations you can looking for bubbles.