Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[CKOPOCT]

Said it before, but I'm really impressed with your stick-with-it attitude. So many issues and frustration points, but you kept plugging. Hats off to you. And congrats on it starting!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

First time someone told me to light something on fire like that.

So I replaced the crank sensor. And it started!!! I put in the new one, and cranked it, all the plugs got sparked and shocked me a few times. I’ve not been this happy and excited in a longgggg while. My clutch pedal went all the way to the floor though, so I’m gonna bleed it tomorrow because I’m almost positive that’s the problem. I also have to replace a tie rod end, but I can’t get it to stop spinning. So id love pointers on how to get it off and to stop spinning in place. I am genuinely so so excited for this car and to start driving it.

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YAY!!! Congrats! So happy for you!

Said it before, but I'm really impressed with your stick-with-it attitude. So many issues and frustration points, but you kept plugging. Hats off to you. And congrats on it starting!

^^^ This. @RubyEclipse Your tenacity is indeed impressive and cheers to the members that stuck it out with you. Good luck to you on the new challenges of getting this car rolling.

 

[RubyEclipse]

YAY!!! Congrats! So happy for you!


^^^ This. @RubyEclipse Your tenacity is indeed impressive and cheers to the members that stuck it out with you. Good luck to you on the new challenges of getting this car rolling.

Thank you so much, I really do appreciate every single one of you. I am just thrilled to be driving this car again.

Said it before, but I'm really impressed with your stick-with-it attitude. So many issues and frustration points, but you kept plugging. Hats off to you. And congrats on it starting!

Thank you thank you!!! I really do try, because it was definitely worth it to hear it starting!!

Congrats! We can imagine how you feel at the first startup.. It must be exciting and emotional. You still probably have more things to do but go on.
Off topic, but this thread has bunch of good info, common basic but important things. Many people share their knowledge and experience. People would need this kind of info often especially when they start working on the car by themselves like you or who just buy a DSM.
Maybe you should ask Chris or admin to move this thread as your build thread. So more people would be able to refer.

I think that’s a great idea, it definitely has some amazing features from all of the wisemen and people who know a lot.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Hey guys, was hoping someone could tell me the spots i need to bleed for the clutch. I was reading this old page that was for properly bleeding. But I only could find the one part to bleed it, that was the one by the transmission next to the clutch line. But there’s a master and slave cylinders. So 2 spots correct? Would love any help on finding one that one. Just a few more things I gotta do, and she’s back on the road.

 

[19Eclipse90]

The system is only bled at the slave.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Read the three steps at the bottom of post #21 from this thread.

Clutch will not disengage

I have done a lot of research and I know other people have posted with a similar problem. Most of them either don't update it when they find a solution, or their solution didn't fix mine.I just installed a new clutchmaster FX300, resurfaced OEM flywheel, and braided stainless steel clutch...

www.dsmtuners.com

I ran into that this past year, because even when you think you have all the air out of the system, you dont have all the air out of the system. Good time to add a stainless line if you dont have one.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Read the three steps at the bottom of post #21 from this thread.

Clutch will not disengage

I have done a lot of research and I know other people have posted with a similar problem. Most of them either don't update it when they find a solution, or their solution didn't fix mine.I just installed a new clutchmaster FX300, resurfaced OEM flywheel, and braided stainless steel clutch...

www.dsmtuners.com

I ran into that this past year, because even when you think you have all the air out of the system, you dont have all the air out of the system. Good time to add a stainless line if you dont have one.

The one good thing the guy who had the car before me did, was he added a braided steal clutch line

I just read that post, I’m still lost and not understanding where the slave cylinder is. I read on the other post how to do it, but no one explained where the slave cylinder was located. And how to compress it, because I thought it was connected to the pedal.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I just read that post, I’m still lost and not understanding where the slave cylinder is. I read on the other post how to do it, but no one explained where the slave cylinder was located. And how to compress it, because I thought it was connected to the pedal.

It's attached to the transmission and pushes on the clutch fork.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It's attached to the transmission and pushes on the clutch fork.

Ok got it, that is the one next to the bleeder nipple correct?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ok got it, that is the one next to the bleeder nipple correct?

Correct

 

[RubyEclipse]

I’m looking at this bubble again, getting pretty worried… I thought I flushed it all out, but maybe not…? I pray that’s all it is.

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My idle seems a bit off, kinda high. It seems like it takes awhileee to come back down, like a few seconds. It’ll go up alright, ish. Then take like 2-4 seconds to come down again. I’ll send videos of everything and all I have questions for.

 

[pauleyman]

Correct

The bleeder is part of the slave.

 

[RubyEclipse]

The bleeder is part of the slave.

Yep. Thank you, I got that one all figure out. Clutch has been bled and feels pretty good, I still want to tighten it a little, but all of the air is out of it.

So the first test drive did not go well. It made it there and back, so it was okay ish I guess. Rpm’s are very low and won’t climb past 2500 so i am guessing boost leak. Clutch is still very very loose, it will not shift right, it just grinds or is very very hard to shift gears, making terrible noises on the right side, almost like the wheel or something is loose. Front brakes definitely do not work, it was very very hard to stop. I don’t know why or how, but my speedometer stopped working too. I’m thinking some of these problems are from that speed sensor, I think I am going to just have to suck it up, and spend the 150 on a new VSS. I think that is my problem. I don’t think it will be impossible to get off, but pretty hard. I’d love any help or fixes to these problems, there is just so many. I am thinking of taking it to a mechanic and just having them help me figure out all of my issues, there’s so many right now. Thank you all in advance.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Rpm’s are very low and won’t climb past 2500 so i am guessing boost leak.

You removed a whole engine... So a boost leak test shouldve been mandatory before attempting to drive.

Clutch is still very very loose, it will not shift right, it just grinds or is very very hard to shift gears, making terrible noises on the right side, almost like the wheel or something is loose.

Did you adjust the master cylinder under the dash? Jack's Transmission method or some equivalent?

I don’t know why or how, but my speedometer stopped working too. I’m thinking some of these problems are from that speed sensor, I think I am going to just have to suck it up, and spend the 150 on a new VSS. I think that is my problem.

Find out if there are any tests that you can run to find out for sure. Throwing $150 at a problem without knowing the cause is a waste. Ive been down that road.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You removed a whole engine... So a boost leak test shouldve been mandatory before attempting to drive.


Did you adjust the master cylinder under the dash? Jack's Transmission method or some equivalent?


Find out if there are any tests that you can run to find out for sure. Throwing $150 at a problem without knowing the cause is a waste. Ive been down that road.

I did not adjust the master cylinder at all. How should I do that? and I will find out if I can test it at all.

If anyone knows where I can get a VSS let me know. I can’t find one anywhere, at least with the gear and metal rod, for under 150 bucks. Nothings near by for pick up either.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Brakes - agree with the boost leak test but also check you reconnected the brake booster vacuum line to the intake manifold.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Brakes - agree with the boost leak test but also check you reconnected the brake booster vacuum line to the intake manifold.

Which one is that? And where does it connect too?

 

[19Eclipse90]

The brake booster is on the firewall. Should have a large(r) diameter hose connected to it. The other end of the hose should go to firewall side of the intake manifold.

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[RubyEclipse]

The brake booster is on the firewall. Soups have a large(r) diameter hose connected to it. The other end of the hose should go to firewall side of the intake manifold.

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Got it ok. Thank you so much, I will definitely check.

I think this is where I messed up, I think I hooked that hose up to the air canister because it was the only place I could see that it reached.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Probably the reason you are limited to 2500rpm is due to a broken speed sensor, which will also affect the speedometer.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Probably the reason you are limited to 2500rpm is due to a broken speed sensor, which will also affect the speedometer.

It would make sense I tried my best to make a working on since I couldn’t find or afford one. But it obviously did not work. Is there anything else that could be you think?

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I did not adjust the master cylinder at all. How should I do that? and I will find out if I can test it at all.

If anyone knows where I can get a VSS let me know. I can’t find one anywhere, at least with the gear and metal rod, for under 150 bucks. Nothings near by for pick up either.

Sorry to leave you hanging,

The video in post #2

2G - Clutch Adjustment Help

Hey guys my clutch on my 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T Spyder is pretty annoying as the play is like an inch if less and I have to put the clutch to the floor to shift gears. I am under the impression that I am able to Increase/Decrease the range of play in the clutch with a tensioner cable of...

www.dsmtuners.com

Personally, i didnt have to adjust the height, so Im not knowledgable about that , it explains how to in the video... .but Basically youre cracking the nut loose and spinning the rod a full clockwise turn at a time searching for the point that you cant compress the slave cylinder. Its going to be a lot of spin, check, spin, check. After you find that point youre gonna start backing off by spinning counter clockwise a half a turn at a time until you can compress it again. Tighten the nut, pump the pedal a few times and make sure you can compress the slave by hand again and that should be it. Be sure to tighten the nut again.

I was still having a few problems and a local guy told me that im suppose to do it with the car warmed up and running. Once i did that, I was fine. Afterwards i took it for a drive, found an empty school parking lot and did a clutch drag test by putting the car in first gear, depressing the clutch and revving it up to 7 grand to see if the car was going to start moving forward but it didnt. So considered it done.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Sorry to leave you hanging,

The video in post #2

2G - Clutch Adjustment Help

Hey guys my clutch on my 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T Spyder is pretty annoying as the play is like an inch if less and I have to put the clutch to the floor to shift gears. I am under the impression that I am able to Increase/Decrease the range of play in the clutch with a tensioner cable of...

www.dsmtuners.com

Basically youre cracking the nut loose and spinning the rod a full clockwise turn at a time searching for the point that you cant compress the slave cylinder. Its going to be a lot of spin, check, spin, check. After you find that point youre gonna start backing off half a turn at a time until you can compress it again. Tighten the nut, pump the pedal a few times and make sure you can compress the slave by hand again and that should be it. I was still having a few problems and a local guy told me that im suppose to do it with the car warmed up and running. Once i did that, I was fine. Afterwards i took it for a drive, found an empty school parking lot and did a clutch drag test by putting the car in first gear, depressing the clutch and revving it up to 7 grand to see if the car was going to start moving forward but it didnt. So considered it done.

Yeah I knew mine was bad when I was in reverse with the clutch fully compressed, and it was moving at like 5 miles an hour.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Yeah I knew mine was bad when I was in reverse with the clutch fully compressed, and it was moving at like 5 miles an hour.

I was getting the nasty crunch when putting it in reverse and after like 10 minutes of driving, it progressively got harder to put into any gear.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I was getting the nasty crunch when putting it in reverse and after like 10 minutes of driving, it progressively got harder to put into any gear.

Would that be a leak in the line or something?