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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
We have those in our shop, very handy thread checkers! 👍
 
So I got the piece, it fit in a lot better. But it is definitely stripped cleaning, it just moves around so much at the end. So I pulled out the whole exhaust, actually didn’t take me too long. But I’d like to get it back in there tonight, do I drill this out and make it an M12 x 1.25? Or stick with the 11. The thing that is swaying me to stay with the 11, is the M12 I currently have is a very weak alloy, I already had one snap. The 11 is steel and is so much stronger, what do you guys think? Thank you all per usual!! LOL
 
So I got the piece, it fit in a lot better. But it is definitely stripped cleaning, it just moves around so much at the end. So I pulled out the whole exhaust, actually didn’t take me too long. But I’d like to get it back in there tonight, do I drill this out and make it an M12 x 1.25? Or stick with the 11. The thing that is swaying me to stay with the 11, is the M12 I currently have is a very weak alloy, I already had one snap. The 11 is steel and is so much stronger, what do you guys think? Thank you all per usual!! LOL
Clear picture of the oil supply hole you are trying to fix please.

I'd avoid a non-standard thread. Some day you are going to replace this turbo, and you may be able to reuse the oil supply line. Now would be a good time to cut new threads. If you are concerned about the strength of the fitting, buy a stronger one, and tap the cartridge with a matching tap. If you are also changing the thread pitch, you will need to make new clean cuts in the cast housing,. Check the drill size recommended for the tap, and see if your hole is already too big or not.
 
Clear picture of the oil supply hole you are trying to fix please.

I'd avoid a non-standard thread. Some day you are going to replace this turbo, and you may be able to reuse the oil supply line. Now would be a good time to cut new threads. If you are concerned about the strength of the fitting, buy a stronger one, and tap the cartridge with a matching tap. If you are also changing the thread pitch, you will need to make new clean cuts in the cast housing,. Check the drill size recommended for the tap, and see if your hole is already too big or not.
I will send a picture as soon as I am home, I am going to go with the M12 x 1.25, came with the necessary tap.
 
For the TIME and $ spent in this, I would look in the classifieds for a mhi 16g.
I don't mean to be rash, just saying,.something isn't right with the oil feed port on the turbocharger.
 
So this is what I am left with, the M12 fitting I sit with is not big enough to reach down to the threads. So either I jump to a 14, or I have to scrap it. I want to try a heli- coil for M12 x 1.25, or should I do a 14? What do you guys think?

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So my issue is I drilled it out to fit an M12 thread, but it still has the same problem, it wiggles back and forth bad. It will not thread till the bottom, I’m thinking to tap it out to an M14, then use an M14 heli coil, how does that sound?
 
If you tap it out for a M14, there’s no reason to use a Heli-Coil.

If the M12 is too loose, you’re nearly at the size for the M14 tap.

Tap drill for an M14 x 1.5 is 12.5 mm diameter (0.492”). Tap drill for M14 x 2.0 is 12 mm (0.472”) diameter.

So what tap do you have?

There’s also no reason for it to “not thread until the bottom” unless you’re not drilling and tapping straight. If you’re doing this by hand, go slowly and make sure everything is straight so you get a fully formed thread.

Honestly, I’m not sure going larger is a great idea anyway. Not only are there metal shavings going into the cartridge, but how much material is there to support larger fittings - not only diameter, but also depth. If anything, I’d consider using a Heli-Coil to get “good” M12 threads again instead of going larger.
 
If you tap it out for a M14, there’s no reason to use a Heli-Coil.

If the M12 is too loose, you’re nearly at the size for the M14 tap.

Tap drill for an M14 x 1.5 is 12.5 mm diameter (0.492”). Tap drill for M14 x 2.0 is 12 mm (0.472”) diameter.

So what tap do you have?

There’s also no reason for it to “not thread until the bottom” unless you’re not drilling and tapping straight. If you’re doing this by hand, go slowly and make sure everything is straight so you get a fully formed thread.

Honestly, I’m not sure going larger is a great idea anyway. Not only are there metal shavings going into the cartridge, but how much material is there to support larger fittings - not only diameter, but also depth. If anything, I’d consider using a Heli-Coil to get “good” M12 threads again instead of going larger.
I think I am going to try the heli coils just because of the shavings and I don’t want anything to crack. The diameter I am using is 27/64 bit. I think I am have a problem drilling straight. Because it longer than It is wide and this was the problem I had earlier.
 
Huge update everyone, she runs, and she runs almost perfect!!! I have to check for boost leaks here soon, it’ll pop if I try to push it too hard and backfire. That CAS is gone completely, so I am getting the switch to a he 1G CAS on the back of the block, I’ve already purchased all that I need. Going to cut and splice it, while heat shrinking it all. Besides that, it doesn’t leak, and it runs really really nice. That new turbo takes a lot longer to spool that the small 26-24T whichever it is. The BOV was in the very beginning making this horribly loud squeal, and then it went away. Weird. Might replace it with my old and for sure working one?
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Huge update everyone, she runs, and she runs almost perfect!!! I have to check for boost leaks here soon, it’ll pop if I try to push it too hard and backfire. That CAS is gone completely, so I am getting the switch to a he 1G CAS on the back of the block, I’ve already purchased all that I need. Going to cut and splice it, while heat shrinking it all. Besides that, it doesn’t leak, and it runs really really nice. That new turbo takes a lot longer to spool that the small 26-24T whichever it is. The BOV was in the very beginning making this horribly loud squeal, and then it went away. Weird. Might replace it with my old and for sure working one?
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how did the turbo repair go?
 
how did the turbo repair go?
Amazing. Put in a helicoil and it runs great. No leaks at all out of any port. LOL

Photo of the heli coil, tightened it down perfect; made sure it’s not restricting flow, bolt feels great, I mean it’s perfect.

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Good job man! I was worried about how to get it heli-coiled. :thumb:
You're gonna love being able to DRIVE it. ✌️
Pops
 
Amazing. Put in a helicoil and it runs great. No leaks at all out of any port. LOL

Photo of the heli coil, tightened it down perfect; made sure it’s not restricting flow, bolt feels great, I mean it’s perfect.

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Excellent - glad that is working out.
 
Car will not idle with this CAS sensor not working, I mean it’ll start, and kill itself instantly. I bought a i thought 1G CAS, might be just the intake side 2G I don’t really know. All i know is that no matter how wire them, the car will not start when it’s plugged in. Could be the sensor itself since I didn’t buy a new one and have been using the one it came with, but I don’t really understand. Any help? Thank you guys.

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Will this even work? Whatever I try will just not work. It either starts with them disconnected, or won’t even start with them connected.

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2G CAS are all three wire sensors. Red power, Black Ground, and Blue is signal. The two plug you have there are 2Ga (rectangle) vs 2Gb (diamond)
So what isn’t working? My harness only has the rectangle. That’s where my original cam sensor plugged into, but that won’t work for my harness. I need it to be plugged into the new sensor correct?
 
So what isn’t working? My harness only has the rectangle. That’s where my original cam sensor plugged into, but that won’t work for my harness. I need it to be plugged into the new sensor correct?
If you have a 95/96 engine harness with the rectangle plug for the 2GA under the cam - cam position sensor, you can either buy an adaptor harness, make an adaptor harness, or replace the 2GA plug on the harness with a 2GB plug. Just make sure you have enough slack to move the connection to the passenger side, vs the driver side of the motor.
 
If you have a 95/96 engine harness with the rectangle plug for the 2GA under the cam - cam position sensor, you can either buy an adaptor harness, make an adaptor harness, or replace the 2GA plug on the harness with a 2GB plug. Just make sure you have enough slack to move the connection to the passenger side, vs the driver side of the motor.
So the little makeshift harness won’t work? Do i have to cut and splice the actual harness? I’ve pushed off cutting it.
 
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