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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Will it not work if i try and fuse them together? Then i can save myself 50 bucks, and a week and a half of time. I just don’t know what wires go to what, I mean there’s 3 and 3 wires, same colors. I don’t get why they wouldn’t match up?
 
Will it not work if i try and fuse them together? Then i can save myself 50 bucks, and a week and a half of time. I just don’t know what wires go to what, I mean there’s 3 and 3 wires, same colors. I don’t get why they wouldn’t match up?
You can use what you have, and add the pigtail to the factory harness.
 
You can use what you have, and add the pigtail to the factory harness.
I did indeed try it, and rigging up my own thing. But every time I had it plugged in and trying to start it, car wouldn’t even turn over. If I unplugged it, it would then start and run terribly, and die in 3 seconds.
 
Would not turn over? or would not fire when cranking?
so with no sensor hooked up, it will turn over and fire up really fast, but idles horrible. Then it will die out fairly quick. With the rigged harness, it will turn over but nothing else, no spark, no ignition, no nothing. The 2 cables I have all have the same colored wires but I can’t tell if they even go to each other.

This is the car running disconnected. I’m going to go pick up a new sensor in hopes that it starts up correctly. Kinda wild to think how one sensor keeps the car from starting and or makes it run so terribly.

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Would not turn over? or would not fire when cranking?
I stand corrected, I apparently have caused an issue. The car no longer even turns over. 😭 I can’t get any movement out of anything, I hear the fuel pump prime and that is it. Besides that, there is zero movement in the car. The car thank goodness is not locked, I just checked , it turns freely.

So now there is just nothing, I can hear the fuel priming, but there is no click, no trying to spin, no absolutely nothing. Doesn’t matter what is plugged in or not plugged in, the car will not even try. Did I blow a fuse or something? I don’t really understand.

Did a few more checks and tests, I saw my clutch pedal switch was unplugged, and actually the plug was ripped out. It’s just 2 bare wires hanging. But it’s been starting with it like that so I don’t think that is the issue. Also checked my starter, 11.6 volts sitting, 10.5 when trying to start, but nothing is allowing that starter to kick in. Fuels being primed, and nothing else is moving, making sounds, nada.

What do you guys think I should do or check next?
 
Did a few more checks and tests, I saw my clutch pedal switch was unplugged, and actually the plug was ripped out. It’s just 2 bare wires hanging. But it’s been starting with it like that so I don’t think that is the issue. Also checked my starter, 11.6 volts sitting, 10.5 when trying to start, but nothing is allowing that starter to kick in. Fuels being primed, and nothing else is moving, making sounds, nada.

What do you guys think I should do or check next?
People unplug the clutch switch to prevent wear on the thrust bearings (Which supposedly causes crankwalk), so you can start the car without the clutch pushed down which will help the thrust bearings live longer. (This is a non issue in your current situation.)

Start with making sure the battery terminals are all tightened down, checking the ground wire(s) for the starter. Then I would start checking the fuses and such. Ignition switch is also a possibility.
 
People unplug the clutch switch to prevent wear on the thrust bearings (Which supposedly causes crankwalk), so you can start the car without the clutch pushed down which will help the thrust bearings live longer. (This is a non issue in your current situation.)

Start with making sure the battery terminals are all tightened down, checking the ground wire(s) for the starter. Then I would start checking the fuses and such. Ignition switch is also a possibility.
So I checked all of the fuses, im looking at all the grounds and they all seem good. I just cannot get an ounce of life out of this car besides dash lights and fuel priming. I hear it spinning and whirring in the backseat.
 
So I checked all of the fuses, im looking at all the grounds and they all seem good. I just cannot get an ounce of life out of this car besides dash lights and fuel priming. I hear it spinning and whirring in the backseat.
Try and wiggle the ground wires, you wouldn’t really be able to tell by looking at them, but if they move around easily/freely, they’ll need to be tightened down. I know for sure there is one on the firewall directly off the negative post of the battery, then there is one ground that bolts to the transmission.

Also try wiggling your starter wires if you can reach down there. If they wiggle, tighten them. If none of them wiggle and they’re all good, I would be suspicious of the starter solenoid since you said nothing clicks when you try to start it. Maybe a wiseman can chime in here as well, it’s possible I missed something that could be a more obvious solution.
 
Try and wiggle the ground wires, you wouldn’t really be able to tell by looking at them, but if they move around easily/freely, they’ll need to be tightened down. I know for sure there is one on the firewall directly off the negative post of the battery, then there is one ground that bolts to the transmission.

Also try wiggling your starter wires if you can reach down there. If they wiggle, tighten them. If none of them wiggle and they’re all good, I would be suspicious of the starter solenoid since you said nothing clicks when you try to start it. Maybe a wiseman can chime in here as well, it’s possible I missed something that could be a more obvious solution.
Awesome, I will try that and check around. Thank you. LOL

I read some other sites that told people to check the MPI/MFI. So I went and did that, there were 2 plugs. One was sending 12 volts when the circuit was closed, the fuel pump. The other plug was sending 1.7 when the circuit was closed. I got no idea where’s these lead too or how to fix it, but my cam sensor, injectors, and starter were getting their needed power, when key was in the ON position. So I don’t understand.

So I had the CEL light come on every time I tried starting it, now it will only come on if I have the little jumper wire in there, if I plug the MPI itself back in, I will not get any CEL light ever. I don’t understand this car, and I hate electrical so much. I was so close, and now it seems my cars fallen way off again.

Left side is the fuel pump and whatever else goes with it. It’s getting good voltage and ohms, the other is getting like nothing. Barely any voltage and ohms.

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Reading up on an old forum, guy did the exact same thing as me. Said he heard a pop and thought a fuse blew, turned out it was his ECU?!?!? Are they really that fragile? And there’s no fuse in between them to stop that from happening, should I pull my ECU and have it checked out or looked at? I can’t really think of anything else it would ever be.

Just took out my ECU to look at it and see if I could spot anything (obviously I have no idea what im looking at)

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okay so I am going to keep my notes posted on here for anyone who wants too read and respond. 😂 I have now checked the ecu power and it reads 1.1 volts, the 2 MFI/MPI plugs are at 11.89.
 

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Alrighty, new day new issues and other things. I picked up a new ecu exactly for my car, same year and model. It’s works for sure, I plugged it in and hooked it up, CEL light came back, fuel pump spinning, I hear my MFI click, but no start, no crank, no nothing. Why would my starter just be shot? Does the CAS have anything connect to the starter?
 
You guys are gonna get a kick outta this. So I do think I blew something in my ECU, I put in the new one and my CEL came back, I took out my starter to test it and make sure I didn’t blow it. Jumped it, and it started right up. I was checking out my battery cause those wires are terrible, looked closer, and saw a ground that fell off, and was underneath the battery. 😐 dude I cannot believe it was that simple, and im that dumb. 😂😂😂 sure enough, I put the ground back, and car fired right up. Still super rough because of the CAS sensor, I still want to wire up this new one, but now blow any more ECUs. Thanks all for the help, if you guys know anything about wiring up this little harness I’ve been trying to do, let me know. LOL
 
You guys are gonna get a kick outta this. So I do think I blew something in my ECU, I put in the new one and my CEL came back, I took out my starter to test it and make sure I didn’t blow it. Jumped it, and it started right up. I was checking out my battery cause those wires are terrible, looked closer, and saw a ground that fell off, and was underneath the battery. 😐 dude I cannot believe it was that simple, and im that dumb. 😂😂😂 sure enough, I put the ground back, and car fired right up. Still super rough because of the CAS sensor, I still want to wire up this new one, but now blow any more ECUs. Thanks all for the help, if you guys know anything about wiring up this little harness I’ve been trying to do, let me know. LOL
LOL.. LOL..!! Well, I’ll say for one that I have NEVER EVER done that before..!! That happened whilst working in the 3G one time and same thing,I found a ground hanging.. spent literally hours lost, didn’t know where to go.. anyhow, take a deep breath, the answer will come grasshopper..
 
I think I have some bad news 😭 after all of that, I think my turbo might have just blown. Did a few up and backs, really nothing super crazy, then my power steering started to go out, I have a leak in the line somewhere for sure. But when i started to oreilys i hear an AWFUL noise, I mean it sounded like a left a rock in the piston chamber. Took off the valve cover, nothing to be seen, was really hoping too. Then I revved it, went up sorta rocky, and crashed when it came down. It sounded horrid I mean really bad, drove it home and took it really slow, it was doing okay, boost gauge going up and down, and speeding up smoothly. Then I parked it, revved it, and nothing. This noise that was there for like 25 minutes just went away?? Or went fairly silent. My power steering pump I think is shot. But not the turbooo!! I barely got anyyyy use out of it. 😞 when it cools I’m going to take off the piping and feed for any movement. It was really rough, I will not lie. I am terrified for this car. The video doesn’t even give it justice of exactly how loud it was.
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Also worried about my clutch, it seems a little grabby when I push in the clutch pedal. Like scratchy? I feel the pedal almost fighting me weirdest thing ever.

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This is now the sound of it, with the intake removed from the turbo. whatever noise it is, it is getting worse.
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sounds like a throw out bearing is sliding on a dry sleeve, and giving resistance
I just find it all weird that I am getting clutch issues, power steering issues, and turbo issues all at the same time. Tied in with gettin a new ECU and cam harness.

Wait, I recently switched the head for my oil, is that turbo getting enough oil too keep it cool? What I am worried about is that I buy another turbo, and it blows immediately too. What would even cause it to do this? Excessive heat by speeding up a lot, I understand that. But how can I even prevent this? Just not speed?
 
Wait, I recently switched the head for my oil, is that turbo getting enough oil too keep it cool? What I am worried about is that I buy another turbo, and it blows immediately too. What would even cause it to do this? Excessive heat by speeding up a lot, I understand that. But how can I even prevent this? Just not speed?
What is the primary issue? Seems like a lot has happened. PS pumps can make terrible noises when they run a little low on fluid.

After you fixed the ground, what ECU did you use? What CAS are you using now?
 
What is the primary issue? Seems like a lot has happened. PS pumps can make terrible noises when they run a little low on fluid.

After you fixed the ground, what ECU did you use?
I don’t even know the primary issue. Cars making tons of new noises, all within a 1 hour span. Fuel pump leaked out all of its fluid, no idea why. I fixed the ground and plugged in an ecu I got off another running, 96 eclipse GST spyder.

I’m wondering if it’s about time to pull the plug. As much as I love this car, I just do not have the time nor money. I gotta get a reliable car for college, and I really did want this one to be it. But no matter what I do there is always something else to fix, and I fear I’ll be stranded and calling tow trucks the rest of this cars life. I’ve learned a lot off of it and I really do love it, but I have to be able to get places without worrying every second what’s gonna happen. What do you guys think I should do? Keep and fix it? Sell it? Or part it out? I was going to go pick up a new turbo today, but if I can save myself 350 and sell the car, I’d rather do that.
 
You may be over reacting a little bit. Old cars are going to have problems, but I'm not sure that all of your assumptions are correct. To my ears that is spark knock. I can't say the why, or if that's correct, but that's what I'm hearing. It's quite a bit different from rod knock or something banging around in the combustion chamber. While I would stop the usage temporarily to diagnose the problem, I also believe that in the short term your engine will not self destruct from that.

I also don't believe that anyone should part out a solid running and driving DSM. Someone would rather buy the whole car and fix it's problems, assuming good overall condition.
 
You may be over reacting a little bit. Old cars are going to have problems, but I'm not sure that all of your assumptions are correct. To my ears that is spark knock. I can't say the why, or if that's correct, but that's what I'm hearing. It's quite a bit different from rod knock or something banging around in the combustion chamber. While I would stop the usage temporarily to diagnose the problem, I also believe that in the short term your engine will not self destruct from that.

I also don't believe that anyone should part out a solid running and driving DSM. Someone would rather buy the whole carandfix it's problems, assuming good overall condition.
What is a spark knock? And I thought everyone wanted the parts? I do not want to sell it. I just picked up the EVO 8 turbo, looks great, super strong. I just want a more reliable car, it’s spent more time on jack stands than its own tires. I don’t know what a spark knock is, but I did have the cords messed up. I fixed them this morning, turbo is still done in tho.
 
I’m wondering if it’s about time to pull the plug. As much as I love this car, I just do not have the time nor money. I gotta get a reliable car for college, and I really did want this one to be it. But no matter what I do there is always something else to fix, and I fear I’ll be stranded and calling tow trucks the rest of this cars life. I’ve learned a lot off of it and I really do love it, but I have to be able to get places without worrying every second what’s gonna happen. What do you guys think I should do? Keep and fix it? Sell it? Or part it out? I was going to go pick up a new turbo today, but if I can save myself 350 and sell the car, I’d rather do that.
I didn’t buy my 95 (new) until I was out if college, so I got to live through the best time for reliability in the first two years while trying to hold down a job. I thank the stars that cars were not a stressful part of that time, cause lord knows there were plenty of things that life demanded of my time and resources. I never understood what people were going on about regards reliability issues. I had to melt my own engine and recover to understand.

DSM are wicked fast money pits. They can go like crazy and spend all your time and money. Money you don’t have, just to get to work in the morning.

IMO - the age of these cars will keep you broke to keep them running reliably.

You can comfortably own and work on a classic project car IF you can get to work riding in something else
 
I didn’t buy my 95 (new) until I was out if college, so I got to live through the best time for reliability in the first two years while trying to hold down a job. I thank the stars that cars were not a stressful part of that time, cause lord knows there were plenty of things that life demanded of my time and resources. I never understood what people were going on about regards reliability issues. I had to melt my own engine and recover to understand.

DSM are wicked fast money pits. They can go like crazy and spend all your time and money. Money you don’t have, just to get to work in the morning.

IMO - the age of these cars will keep you broke to keep them running reliably.

You can comfortably own and work on a classic project car IF you can get to work riding in something else
That’s exactly my issue. I won’t have money for another car unless I sold this. My sister said I could use her 90s Corolla so I light do that. Get some good gas mileage and have a dependable car.
 
I whole heartedly agree with @BLACK'98DSM .
Once you sell ONE PART as you are parting it out, you have all of the time to take off said part, pack, ship, etc not to mention that NOW the car is a part out.
You do you, but these are OLD. Things just don't get better with age (Dam, I can attest to that...). With all the guidance you've gotten and can get, you would be happy as a lark with it. Let me just say look at @CrackedDSM . That man has worked hard but now feels pretty happy about his hard work. We realize you don't have all the time in the world but if you love the car, keep it in 1 piece and go buy a beater to get you from A to B while the bugs get worked out.
I hope you can enjoy the smile you get from a properly running 4g63 turbo car. 👍
Marty
 
I agree. These are not reliable daily drivers. They are love and passion cars if you have the time and money to put into them, or can wait.
You need something reliable to get through this next stage of life. If you can hold onto it great, if not I also agree please do not part it out. Sell it whole. I had to save mine for over 20 years to be able to start putting the proper time and money into her and you see where I still am with it. Everyone’s situation is different though.
 
I whole heartedly agree with @BLACK'98DSM .
Once you sell ONE PART as you are parting it out, you have all of the time to take off said part, pack, ship, etc not to mention that NOW the car is a part out.
You do you, but these are OLD. Things just don't get better with age (Dam, I can attest to that...). With all the guidance you've gotten and can get, you would be happy as a lark with it. Let me just say look at @CrackedDSM . That man has worked hard but now feels pretty happy about his hard work. We realize you don't have all the time in the world but if you love the car, keep it in 1 piece and go buy a beater to get you from A to B while the bugs get worked out.
I hope you can enjoy the smile you get from a properly running 4g63 turbo car. 👍
Marty
I will sell the car if I decide I need too. I’d so much rather hold onto it. I absolutely love this car, I hope this last year of all my questions and problems have shown that. You’re not wrong though, my smile when I finally get these problems fixed is the main reason I’ve kept this car. I’ll hopefully be able to work a bit and save for a beater.
 
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