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10.3 on Fp68 HTA 16G

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Well the hp was not as good as I hopped. Could have been on a hurt 14b.

Was spiking 29psi and falling 16psi by 6k. was about 270whp through the Auto. I felt like I should be right around 300whp since we have done 320whp through a 5spd on a 14b in the past.

My 12.3 on my wifes 14b car was shifting at 5800-6k. For this reason is why after market intake manifolds are going to lose a tone of ET since they are not meant to work in that lower of RPM range.

Wow, 29 spike....ok! What dyno are you running on?
 
So quick question. I'm still running a stock 2.0 motor, and a rebuilt trans with ITP clutches on stock converter. Currently I run my Holset at 28psi and shift at 7-7500rpm. Do you think it would be better all around to shift at a lower rpm? Also, I have FP2's sitting on my shelf waiting to be installed. Will shifting at a lower rpm make the cams worthless?
 
These suggestions were for much smaller turbos. For you you are probably shifting too soon. Slap those FP2s on and try for 8K
 
These suggestions were for much smaller turbos. For you you are probably shifting too soon. Slap those FP2s on and try for 8K

Thanks for the advice. But I am also debating on switching back to a smaller turbo, now that I know how to tune. I tried brake boosting on the Holset last night but to me I feel it just takes to long. I'm not to concerned with the heat because I do have an aftermarket tranny cooler.
 
Thanks for the advice. But I am also debating on switching back to a smaller turbo, now that I know how to tune. I tried brake boosting on the Holset last night but to me I feel it just takes to long. I'm not to concerned with the heat because I do have an aftermarket tranny cooler.

I'm not familiar with the Holset turbos, but I'm sure a re-stalled converter would help your situation as far as brake-boosting...

How many seconds do you think it took to boost up the turbo while on the brakes ?
 
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25mph on the back half. That's about what I'm getting on my 68. I keep feeling that it needs to pull harder up top but maybe I'm just maxed out? The little auto is smoking to half track and lays down a great ET and awesome MPH!
 
The Dyno I have is a Dyno Jet 424xlc2 Link setup Load is pretty good.

Well last week my dad and I had just few in from Tuson AZ dealing with some family stuff and my guys told me the new turbo was on and they were heading to the track. So no time for dyno tossed a few gal of race gas in on my E98 to make E70 or so to compensate for the extra power. My 1000s have been maxed out for awhile. 1st few passes with the boost controller on the car was not quite as fast 10.2-10.3 felt way better on the top on but the huge RPM drop the AUTO has on the 2-3 3-4 shift made the turbo feel lazy. On my last pass I pulled the WG line and the car ran a 10.0 but then my oil pump had to start leaking. So we got that fixed this week ,put 1650s in and got the car back on the dyno and made about 25-30hp over what my 10.0 track tune was. (ran the car on the dyno just how it came from the track with the 1000's then swapped injectors on the dyno) Car made 404whp before on the 68hta and now makes 450whp on the HTA Green. The Green is up a good 60hp at 7k over the FP68hta but this car does not capitalize on the extra power up there like a 5spd car would.

So I got to the track last night did a huge 2nd gear awd burn out then when I went to go I stalled the car a bit too long and it did its 38psi whip on the brakes and when I left it hopped and then broke the case or rear end. Have not looked at it yet. I will be taking one more try at it for a 9.9 this Wed if the weather holds. If not I am done till next year :(

I love how life is. If you want it it will make you work for it. If you just have fun and not really want it, it will just come :)

At least the Burn out was cool for AWD.

YouTube - Trying to hard in the little auto.wmv
 
I'm not familiar with the Holset turbos, but I'm sure a re-stalled converter would help your situation as far as brake-boosting...

How many seconds do you think it took to boost up the turbo while on the brakes ?

It takes about ten seconds to get to 15psi. I usually just let it get to 10psi and launch from there. Not the best, but easier on the trans.
 
I know your not big on dyno graphs, but do you have one comparing the 2 setups? 68 vs green?

Good luck to you, I'm sure there are a ton like me that are crossing our fingers you get your 9.9.
 
I love to show dyno graphs its just the ones form the auto dont look that good. I will post some soon. The car did not see the Dyno that much on the FP68hta and the last time it was on the tach pick up was not working and I was on the Snow tires so trying to compare the graph VS speed does not look quite right. You get the Idea but the overlay is wrong.
 
The are a 25.5. On the Fp68gta I would do the 3-4 shift at 6500rpm and it would drop to 5100rpm. Now I am on the debate of running 3rd out to 8k or not. On my 10.0 pass I poped it into 4th right at the end at 7500rpm. Really don't like how the 2.3 feels reving to 8k.

On the 16g sized turbo the lower the RPM the bigger the boost spike and the faster the car went. Not quite the same now on the HTA Green.
 
I would say just over 8k in 3rd would be 130mph.
 
Lucas, I'm curious why you think the Auto car doesn't gain as much from High RPM hp gain vs a 5 speed? I would think it'd have more to gain vs a 5 speed car, since it has the longer gearing, it spends longer elapsed time in any given RPM range.
 
I think the auto allows me to really find the sweet spot for good times out of a 16g with the low RPM. Most 16g guys are still trying to rev 7k which is way to high if you are trying to keep it in its peak hp. When 16g are ran at huge spikes there peak power is around 5-5.5k. So its not a auto thing on low RPM its just a combo thing that the auto can really take advantage of.
 
I'm just interested to see how the auto does with a green sized turbo, it is my fav. sized turbo for a street car and thats on a 2.0L i'd love it on a 2.3
 
I think the auto allows me to really find the sweet spot for good times out of a 16g with the low RPM. Most 16g guys are still trying to rev 7k which is way to high if you are trying to keep it in its peak hp. When 16g are ran at huge spikes there peak power is around 5-5.5k. So its not a auto thing on low RPM its just a combo thing that the auto can really take advantage of.

Did you ever make a pass with the 16g setup that you didn't click it into overdrive and ran out 3rd gear? (would likely have been VERY high rpm)
 
Yes when we 1st started racing this car we thought the OD would be to week. So 126mph is the most I ever did reving 3rd out with the 16g. I did 130 reving the green out in 3rd, but the green is still faster shifting OD.
 
Yes when we 1st started racing this car we thought the OD would be to week. So 126mph is the most I ever did reving 3rd out with the 16g. I did 130 reving the green out in 3rd, but the green is still faster shifting OD.

Sweet. OD it is then. I'm turning 7950rpm in 3rd gear with E3 16g which is just stupid seeing its down to under 25psi. Your making more power and WAY more passes than me and the OD is still not blown up on your car, so I should be good from a durability standpoint.:thumb:

Thanks for the info.:D
 
Did you get a good look at the condition of the crank thrust bearing after the flex plate let loose? Just wondering if the increased line pressure from the trans and all the killer launches is chewing up the thrust bearing.
 
We have looked at the bearings and everything seems to be fine. When we did the oil pump a few weeks back we checked every thing out.
 
Have either of you guys considered converting to FWD?

Why would anyone ever consider this? That is possibly the worst idea ever for anyone attempting to go fast. The ~100 lbs and ~4% drivetrain loss gained back by doing so doesn't even come close to becoming an advantage over the loss of traction and ability to put down power on the short side.
 
Why would anyone ever consider this? That is possibly the worst idea ever for anyone attempting to go fast. The ~100 lbs and ~4% drivetrain loss gained back by doing so doesn't even come close to becoming an advantage over the loss of traction and ability to put down power on the short side.

Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com :thumb:

My "Dream build" has been a FWD auto setup. FWD has less drivetrain loss than AWD and weighs less. The downside of reduced traction is minimized by the auto trans, since you can pre-load the drivetrain and control the launch better. You'd obviously only want to do it on full slicks, but at the power levels they're running, traction shouldn't be an issue and I wouldn't be surprised to see them pick up some ET and MPH. Assuming they're already running welded center diffs, it would be very simple to try out and easy to revert back if it didn't work for them.
 
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