10.3 on Fp68 HTA 16G

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com

My "Dream build" has been a FWD auto setup. FWD has less drivetrain loss than AWD and weighs less. The downside of reduced traction is minimized by the auto trans, since you can pre-load the drivetrain and control the launch better. You'd obviously only want to do it on full slicks, but at the power levels they're running, traction shouldn't be an issue and I wouldn't be surprised to see them pick up some ET and MPH. Assuming they're already running welded center diffs, it would be very simple to try out and easy to revert back if it didn't work for them.

They make it look easy. It is not that simple. I don't think you realize how much power is pulled out of the high powered FWD cars to make them hook. I've built both. AWD/RWD always wins. Anything at 400+ whp will suffer from physics. You hardly gain any power from drivetrain differences. As I stated it's ~4% which I've found by converting cars and running them back to back on a dynojet on more than one occasion. At lucas' level he'd probably see 25whp from converting. That's worthless when you have to pull 50whp from the bottom half of the track to make it hook. Weight difference is ~100 lbs, less actually for an auto trans, since the FWD and AWD auto trans weigh damn near the same (unlike their 5 speed counterparts). I know this from doing AWD conversions on cars and weighing the cars and parts. When you make power, physics wins. Power to weight stops working when you are traction limited. That's why the hondas that go 8s have to go 20mph faster than us to do it. Even at the high 9 second level, I'm going 10.0s in a 3200 lb 600whp AWD sled while the 600whp tin can 2000 lb honda dragsters are struggling to stay ahead. That drivetrain gain and reduced weight sure is helping them out

 

[shortydtp]

It would ne nice for jeff to go fwd and get to play with " the Outlaw Fwd's" !!

I dont wanna be the only dsm against 500+ hondas in this class..

 

[danl]

On FWD you end up taking more than just 50 hp out. I'm running 12psi in first gear and take out 5-8 deg of ignition timing at peak torque to keep the tires calm. In second gear I run 20 psi and again pull out timing. Third gear or about 70mph is where I can put full power to it. This is on a 16g based turbo, hardly efficient.

 

[eclipsed4seed99]

Dan you need more PAHHHH I say F those tires and make em work for it.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

On FWD you end up taking more than just 50 hp out. I'm running 12psi in first gear and take out 5-8 deg of ignition timing at peak torque to keep the tires calm. In second gear I run 20 psi and again pull out timing. Third gear or about 70mph is where I can put full power to it. This is on a 16g based turbo, hardly efficient.

Even on the slicks? With the 16G FWD car I built (eagle summit w/ 4G63 and FWD Auto trans) I had it launching on a stock converter at 3200ish RPM and 10 PSI, and held 10 PSI partially through 1st gear then ramping the boost up to 25 PSI, hitting 25 PSI at about 40mph and running full power from there out. This was on a DOT wrinkle wall (not a full slick). Car did 11.5s and 1.85 60 foots all day long like that. We did put a lot of time into tweaking the suspension and boost curve though to get it that good. There was definitely room to improve on the back half with more power, but I don't think we could have gone a whole lot faster in the first 1/8th in full street form, would have had to keep pulling power out to keep traction. We were definitely at the threshold of traction up to 50mph. Car went 7.4 1/8th mile.

 

[forcefed86]

Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com

My "Dream build" has been a FWD auto setup. FWD has less drivetrain loss than AWD and weighs less. The downside of reduced traction is minimized by the auto trans, since you can pre-load the drivetrain and control the launch better. You'd obviously only want to do it on full slicks, but at the power levels they're running, traction shouldn't be an issue and I wouldn't be surprised to see them pick up some ET and MPH. Assuming they're already running welded center diffs, it would be very simple to try out and easy to revert back if it didn't work for them.

"2180lb race weight"

We would all run great numbers if we were that light!

 

[danl]

I am running 1.78-1.80 short times with little to no track prep and 20 month old tires that are feathering. Only going 7.60's at 99-100 in the eighth. First gear can handle a little more power, I think it will handle 1.68-1.70 short times when I sort the car out a bit more, get better track conditions and switch to a new set of tires. Second gear has a ton of traction left on the table, but I was bracket racing that night and didn't want to add in too much power which I have done in the past.

Still, the point is that my friends AWD car ET's 0.5-0.6 seconds faster, short times in the 1.4's to my 1.7's, and traps nearly exactly the same. We don't do any funky boost or timing crap. Just slap a MBC on it and let her eat!

Dan you need more PAHHHH I say F those tires and make em work for it.

I did and they started to feather.