Which Turbo...

[JOEY A]

First off if you plan on running low 12's on your street tires, it's not going to happen. Trust me, I've been there & adding even more power won't help you either. Get slicks, or you won't be impressed with the time you pull.

As for the turbo, don't bother with the 45trim, you probably won't see any additional power with it vs an evoIII & if you do it will be very miminal & probably add a good amount of lag. If 400 at the wheels is your goal, like has been said over & over again, go 50 trim (the 50 trim is a big step up in potential vs the 45trim you mentioned). There's a reason why everyone recommends the 50 trim

With the 16g I highly doubt you'll see 400 whp at 24psi. You need race gas or meth injection, more boost, cams & probably a SMIM to see that kind of power out of it. Yes it has been done, but with all the bolt on mods you can throw at it & this isn't the norm.

A fwd car can hit 12.9s with good street tires, but you have to be a very good driver to do this and a LSD!

Nitto Drag radials are by far the best for lasting a very long time compared to the others, and still handle good

No they are not as good as MTs or BFGs but for a real street DR nittos are going to be the best for a true daily driver in decent climet

 

[dsm-onster]

i plan on running it off of the manifold, so thats good...as for the external, its actually not too expensive as of right now. xs is selling external wastegates for 75 dollars shipped...the reason why i want to go external is because i want maximum boost control. with my 14b now it creeps from 19 to 22 at the top sometimes.

the manifold i can get for 200 from a buddy that has one sitting around for 300 total for an external setup...i dont know too much, actually, i dont know ANYTHING about holsets...they mite be a good idea, i got alot of research to do...

Just to add to cracker , 14b creeping has nothing to do with a turbo upgrade. . . Unless it is a 16g. . . Are you upgrading to a 16g?

Most 50-trims donot have any signs of creeping. All control boost just fine. Internally gated.

 

[JOEY A]

I would never run a knock off waste gate at all, thats going to far when it comes to cheaper parts

Front mounts a misc stuff is fine, but a waste gate is a no no ive scene them fail

 

[dsm-onster]

I can't believe a wiseman would say that.

Friend, you really need to read the original posters profile.

EDIT: I see you retract what you originally posted .

 

[turboglenn]

i plan on running it off of the manifold, so thats good...as for the external, its actually not too expensive as of right now. xs is selling external wastegates for 75 dollars shipped...the reason why i want to go external is because i want maximum boost control. with my 14b now it creeps from 19 to 22 at the top sometimes.

the manifold i can get for 200 from a buddy that has one sitting around for 300 total for an external setup...i dont know too much, actually, i dont know ANYTHING about holsets...they mite be a good idea, i got alot of research to do...

On larger turbos a lot of times they will have way less tendancy to creep or spike and a small wastegate is suitable for fine control of the boost. A small turbo can spool so easily and wuickly that you need a really large wastegate to take enough pressure off the turbine to keep it from spinning up any further. I tried starting a wastegate application thread in the newbie forum that was just someinfo i read from a turbo manufacturers website, but basicly said large turbo at high boost is best with a small gate, a large turbo on low boost needs a large gate, a small turbo in general needs a large gate but more especially when running higher boost on smaller turbos.

Hope that can help you pick what you want.

BTW.. I run a T3/4 stage III turbine and 57 trim compressor wheel in an O4E housing and i've made a best of 468HP at just over 28 PSI, it spools right around 4200 or so in the lower gears and is still okay when looking at streetability. But i would recomend a stage II turbine wheel on any t3/4 hybrid on a 4g63 motor since they have awefull exhaust velocity straight from the factory.

OH yea, and you'll not be getting 12's on street tires with FWD... I've tried for years, my car runs 12.08'ish consistantly at 115-117 MPH on slicks.. When i put street tires on i'm instantly back in high 13's with 100+ MPH trap speeds. FWD and street tires sucks, get an LSD diff or go AWD are the only way to go fast on a dsm with a good amount of power, anything less just wastes tires.

 

[JOEY A]

Friend, you really need to read the original posters profile.

EDIT: I see you retract what you originally posted .

Yup


I have to do a double take, thought the posters car was AWD at 1st...

 

[fwdeclipse]

A fwd car can hit 12.9s with good street tires, but you have to be a very good driver to do this and a LSD!

Nitto Drag radials are by far the best for lasting a very long time compared to the others, and still handle good

No they are not as good as MTs or BFGs but for a real street DR nittos are going to be the best for a true daily driver in decent climet

Just for a reference the nitto drag radials are garbage. I ran those and the wheel hop is so bad its sad. I ended up blowing my diff all over the track with these. Definitely go with some slicks.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just for a reference the nitto drag radials are garbage. I ran those and the wheel hop is so bad its sad. I ended up blowing my diff all over the track with these. Definitely go with some slicks.

If you're getting wheelhop with drag radials, then you havn't done basic suspension work.

It surely is possible. But, common upgrades: lower ride and stiffer rear will prevent the loss of traction on the point of rollback. More than a limited slip differential is required. Stiffer bushings, stronger-than-polyurethane motormounts, altered front suspension geometry, and much more guarantees no hop.

In other words, . . . yes, you put drag radials on and consequently loss your diff. But it's like saying, "Well, I put this big turbo on and everything was fine until I raised the boost."

OP, . . . look at drag radials, lowering springs, stiffer suspension bushings and mounts. And a lsd insert in the least. That should make things easier for you. Struggling with a turbo that is too small is like struggling with a drivetrain that just won't cut it.

 

[daren_p]

A fwd car can hit 12.9s with good street tires, but you have to be a very good driver to do this and a LSD!

Nitto Drag radials are by far the best for lasting a very long time compared to the others, and still handle good

No they are not as good as MTs or BFGs but for a real street DR nittos are going to be the best for a true daily driver in decent climet

I'm sure there's probably some that have, but I said low 12's, not very high 12's & you will also notice the origional poster is running 18's with 40 series tires. Tires with this small of a sidewall, don't have enough sidewall flex, break lose & wheel hop all over the place. Trying to add more power, just makes the situation worse. Also when I say street tires I mean regular street tires not drag radials. If you can show me any fwds that run low 12's with this kind of setup, I'll be impressed

On a side note with my new Hoosier 225/50/16 drag radial setup, my goal is 12.5's, which I think should be doable. Car should run low low 12's all day long on pump (with proper traction, or awd) but I don't want to set my expectations too high.

 

[JOEY A]

Trust me, Cams before Intake.

GO WITH CAMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[JOEY A]

I'm sure there's probably some that have, but I said low 12's, not very high 12's & you will also notice the origional poster is running 18's with 40 series tires. Tires with this small of a sidewall, don't have enough sidewall flex, break lose & wheel hop all over the place. Trying to add more power, just makes the situation worse. Also when I say street tires I mean regular street tires not drag radials. If you can show me any fwds that run low 12's with this kind of setup, I'll be impressed

On a side note with my new Hoosier 225/50/16 drag radial setup, my goal is 12.5's, which I think should be doable. Car should run low low 12's all day long on pump (with proper traction, or awd) but I don't want to set my expectations too high.

gotca bud


I agree high 12s can be had, but its going to take alot of driving a LSD, and some sus mods to do it....Low 12s?! I wouldnt not even try that.

 

[JOEY A]

Just for a reference the nitto drag radials are garbage. I ran those and the wheel hop is so bad its sad. I ended up blowing my diff all over the track with these. Definitely go with some slicks.

For a true every day street car they are not, and thats what we are talking about. Lasting along time, and having good driving manors thats what they are good for. And I clearly stated they are not as good as BFGs or MTs if you go back and read my post.


If it was me id only run a BFG,MT, or Hoosiers drag radial on a extra setup of rims

 

[KPEclipse]

Well, Well, excuse me for causing such a stir up with you!

haha well, I'm back to the same problem, and I'll tell you why in a moment.

First off, I have an LSD, (KAAZ) and full race trans, I thought that was on my profile.
Secondly, on the track, I'm going to be running my stock wheels with some new tires, I haven't decided which yet.

As for my problem, here's the issue now. A friend of mine is parting his GSX out, and either he's going to give me the shell after it's done being parted, or he's going to give me the drivetrain. Either way, at some point in the non distant future, I will have AWD.

So, for the time being do I go with the 16g, and just enjoy it, or do I save my money and get a TO4E, with supporting mods?

Both setups put down some serious times with an AWD drivetrain...I plan on getting cams and SMIM in the future, but for now, do I sell the 16g that I have, and get a 50trim, or do I put the 16g on the car?

 

[KPEclipse]

I am planning on getting my suspension done as well, I just don't know what this consists of, not because I don't know what to buy, but because I don't want to swap the drivetrains and have to buy new stuff all over again...I know the exhaust sections are different so I want to make sure I dont spend money where it isnt needed....

 

[dsm-onster]

Well, Well, excuse me for causing such a stir up with you!

haha well, I'm back to the same problem, and I'll tell you why in a moment.

First off, I have an LSD, (KAAZ) and full race trans, I thought that was on my profile.
Secondly, on the track, I'm going to be running my stock wheels with some new tires, I haven't decided which yet.

As for my problem, here's the issue now. A friend of mine is parting his GSX out, and either he's going to give me the shell after it's done being parted, or he's going to give me the drivetrain. Either way, at some point in the non distant future, I will have AWD.

So, for the time being do I go with the 16g, and just enjoy it, or do I save my money and get a TO4E, with supporting mods?

Both setups put down some serious times with an AWD drivetrain...I plan on getting cams and SMIM in the future, but for now, do I sell the 16g that I have, and get a 50trim, or do I put the 16g on the car?

50-trim . . . I wish I skipped my td05h 18g turbo and went straight to something bigger like I have now. Your car will do fine with it. . . but at least go wider on your tire selection if you're not looking at drag radials.

 

[KPEclipse]

50trim it is...now I just have to buy all the supporting parts...

ie - tubular manifold, new injectors, and i'll have to fab a new licp, thats no problem, maybe i can get them from dejon tool...

i shouldnt need anything else except wider tires and a good suspension right?

 

[daren_p]

50trim it is...now I just have to buy all the supporting parts...

ie - tubular manifold, new injectors, and i'll have to fab a new licp, thats no problem, maybe i can get them from dejon tool...

i shouldnt need anything else except wider tires and a good suspension right?

Tubular mani? Is this going to be a daily driver? If so I'd skip that (tend to have cracking issues) & go pick up the FP race mani (they have a couple group buys currently going on in the vendor forum). With all that money you'll save vs a high quality tubular mani, get a better suspension setup (as that defently can make a big improvement in a fwd) or put it towards a real LSD

Wider tires are also your friend on the street

 

[KPEclipse]

I have a "real" lsd...KAAZ isnt good enough?

 

[dsm-onster]

I agree. A tubular manifold will MARGINALLY improve performance at the power goal you're after. You could get an ebay mitsu-to-garrett adapter and likely not notice a difference. There would be 2 gaskets involved, but it would be much more reliable.

FWD traction: wider tires, better compound, lower suspension, stiffer rear suspension, LSD take weight from the rear. That's about it.

 

[daren_p]

I have a "real" lsd...KAAZ isnt good enough?

No, didn't re-check your profile. Thought you weren't currently running a LSD but were planning on getting one (guess the memory's slipping with old age )

 

[KPEclipse]

I'm looking into that FP Cast manifold, looks great and the price, unbeateable. I emailed about it already.

that should bolt right on to my 50trim, no problem

i plan to do all those FWD traction mods so...i guess good luck to me

now, what injectors do u suggest i match to it?

 

[dsm-onster]

You have an eprom. The biggest that will idle like stock: 1000cc FIC injectors.

 

[KPEclipse]

1000's! thats montrous!

you think 780's or something around that size isnt enough fuel?

 

[turbosax2]

The price difference is so small between different size injectors that you might as well just go big once. You might not need the fuel now but if you ever go bigger it's nice to know that you have enough injector to handle it.

 

[daren_p]

1000's! thats montrous!

you think 780's or something around that size isnt enough fuel?

If you have an eprom ecu to compensate &/or will be running DSMlink, then go bigger then you think you'll ever need. Like Eric said, the cost is almost the same & it sucks when you end up having to buy new injectors again in the future.

When I ran an evoIII I thought 750's would leave me plenty of room to grow. Last year with my 3052 I was seeing 85-90% IDC & there's still tonns left in this turbo. I just swapped them for the new FIC 1050's, which should keep me happy for a long time (well atleast on a stock block they will ). They are custom flow matched & supposed to have a much better flow pattern vs the other 1000cc injectors on the market (& possibly compared to their old 1000's as well.....)