Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[delta448]

Open this link.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/2625-turbo-should-i-get-merged-what-turbo.html
Click the "search this thread" button.

 

[LKWTSI]

My Turbo took a crap on me. The turbine shaft has so much play that the whole thing bumped the housing and destroyed the blades. So I'm shopping for a new turbo and figured I'd do a little upgrade at the same time. So which turbo should I go for on my limited budget. I'm not building a 500hp car here, just moderate upgrades. I figured the 16g would be good, but is there any difference between the "big 16" and Evo 3 16". All the ads if seen say they are a straight bolt on for my 1g, so other than buying a new oil feed line kit what else should I be looking for??

I appreciate the help

 

[booostedGSX]

An Evo III would be a great upgrade. Not to mention, they're fairly cheap.

A stainless oil feed is a good idea, as well as a J-pipe.

 

[buddahboost]

A 16G is a great upgrade and an Evo 3 16G is a nice little torquey monster. It will bolt up to your existing manifold and oil lines!

If you got the money get a 20G, but don't turn up the boost and get some fuel mods done.

What is done to your car?

 

[jjgrizz73]

Best bet is buying an Evo III 16g. You can def. get alot of power out of it and will be a very nice uprgrade.

 

[Boosted_out]

It depends on how much you wanna spend. You could go 16G, 18G or even 20G. Ive got a TDO5 20G and I love it.

 

[fwdmaster]

An Evo III would be a great upgrade. Not to mention, they're fairly cheap.

A stainless oil feed is a good idea, as well as a J-pipe.

I agree with booostedGSX,if your getting a 16g might as well get a evo 3,and get a ported 2g manifold

 

[habitatguy187]

His question still remains though; what is the difference between a big 16g and an evo3 16g?

 

[Boosted_out]

Compared with a so-called "big" 16G, it has an even larger compressor wheel inducer (.01" bigger), a LIGHTER compressor wheel (due to thinner blades), and a turbine housing that's been put on a serious diet -- it's 2.6 POUNDS lighter! The wastegate spring is a little stiffer, too. What's not to like? Plus, the price is affordable.-- Taken from Machv motorsports

The EVOIII is also rated at 380hp while the regular 16G is rated at 320, we know they can make more then this though with great tunning and either meth, e85 or race fuel.

 

[buddahboost]

And if my resources are correct, a big 16G flows 505 CFM's while a 16G flows 550 CFMS!

A heavliy ported 2G manifold is also a nice upgrade from the stock 1G manifold and so is the 2G o2 housing if you are on a tight budget!

 

[92AWDHX40]

The evo is a great upgrade got mine good price, and you can get around 375 horsepower out of it. It also bolts right up on the 1g, use a stainless steet line. With the fuel, fmic, wideband and a decent tune you will love it. Im going to get the max out of it before i upgrade which i dont plan on a for a long time. The big 16 and evo 16 e similar like the op said, get the evo and for now enjoy it.

 

[LKWTSI]

WOW,

Thanks for the input, I will price out both versions and see what I can get. This is the first real step up in power upgrades for me and as unexpected as it was, it has to be done. I wanted to see what you guys have already done and what would be the best route to take, so as not to go backward once I start adding high dollar parts that will be useless once I need the next upgrade. I'm getting ready to shellout for pocketlogger software and see what the ECU is telling me and from there the turbo will go on and the fun begins.

Great replies and many thanks to all of you.

 

[JusMX141]

If you're still using the stock fuel system and such, then the Evo III is a bad idea.

Look to the Small 16G (49178-05200)....it's my turbo of choice for cars that are lightly modded. It will spool just as quick as a 14B, you can safely run up to 15psi on your stock fuel system (actual max boost varies by car) and it leaves you plenty of room to grow.

Wiseman DSM-onster has logged 38lb/min with a Small 16G. Imagine a turbo that flows just as much as an Evo III but spools like a 14B on the street....

 

[LKWTSI]

If you're still using the stock fuel system and such, then the Evo III is a bad idea.

Look to the Small 16G (49178-05200)....it's my turbo of choice for cars that are lightly modded. It will spool just as quick as a 14B, you can safely run up to 15psi on your stock fuel system (actual max boost varies by car) and it leaves you plenty of room to grow.

Wiseman DSM-onster has logged 38lb/min with a Small 16G. Imagine a turbo that flows just as much as an Evo III but spools like a 14B on the street....

Thanks for the advice. It had crossed my mind, although, future mod's might dictate me going up in turbo size, so I figured starting with the 16g wouldn't hurt.

 

[deflator]

I am at an impasse trying to decide on my next turbo. There are just too many possibilities.

I want a shade under 500whp eventually, I'll be happy with 430-480, but first I'm interested to see how far my current fuel setup will take me on E85.

Mainly a street car that will see the track on occasion. I want low-mid 11's in the high 120's. Budget is a major factor. Must be under $1k

Relevant info:
2.3L Wiseco/Eagle 6-bolt ATX
FP2 cams, stock head otherwise. Won't see above 8krpm, probably not even above 7500
1050cc, 255hp rewired, -6an lines. An inline bosch 044 could be dropped in easily.
All other supporting mods, except MAS is stock. 1g TB, RVR intake mani

Spool must be below or very close to 4k rpm. Boost level <= 30psi. I want to stay mitsu flanged and will probably just run a ported 2g mani or an FP race. External gate off O2.

So I'm stuck between:
TD06 20G (probably won't get me quite there)
Big H1C or HX-35 (H1C might not get me there)
HX-40 (would get me there but spools too slow?)
FP3065 ($$$)
Some 35R variant (spools @ ? on a stroker atx? Oh and $$$ again)
Some kind of 60-trim
BW256 (a tad pricey)
I'm open to suggestions on others

Thanks and sorry I wrote so much! Didn't want to leave anything unanswered.

 

[JusMX141]

New 7-blade HX40 from eBay: Holset HX40, $490 plus shipping. Reselling the 18cm2 turbine housing on eBay or on a Cummins forum will save you $50-$100 off this purchase price.

DSM bolt-on turbine housing from Tims Turbos: Turbine housing, around $230.


Is $750ish in your price range for a turbo capable of 69 lb/min? If not, do the same setup with a used HX35 cartridge in a DSM bolt-on turbine housing and you'll save yourself around $200 and a few hundred RPMs of lag at the expense of 10 lb/min or so of peak airflow.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

A Holset HX35 or HX40 would be good for you like jusmx141 said. Splendid deal prices wise and spools within the range you wanted and faster then all of the turbos you listed above. Plus it is a reliable and strong turbo.

 

[thewombis]

Trying to stick under the $1000 here but what about like a 30r, or a 35r variant of some sort. Right from Garrett or PTE.

PTE 6162, ball bearing and are around $1070, and I would rather spend another $70 than get a used turbo.

 

[TSi_with_psi]

Holset HX40 for sure. they make great power, have fast spool times, and are cheaper then most other options out there.

 

[deflator]

New 7-blade HX40 from eBay: Holset HX40, $490 plus shipping. Reselling the 18cm2 turbine housing on eBay or on a Cummins forum will save you $50-$100 off this purchase price.

DSM bolt-on turbine housing from Tims Turbos: Turbine housing, around $230.


Is $750ish in your price range for a turbo capable of 69 lb/min? If not, do the same setup with a used HX35 cartridge in a DSM bolt-on turbine housing and you'll save yourself around $200 and a few hundred RPMs of lag at the expense of 10 lb/min or so of peak airflow.

I've researched the holsets and they are my favored option. My concern is finding a BEP housing, they're almost always on back-order aren't they? I haven't seen that steel one before though...

The HX-35 would spool great, but would I be able to crank out 450+whp on a ported 2g mani? A lot of the results I've seen with the -35 are well below that with better manifolds, both intake and exhaust.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

You should be able to top 450 hp even if you're staying with a port 2g manifold. Nevertheless, you should really consider switched to a FP Race manifold if you're going to stay with the Mitsubishi flange turbo or some thing like an ERL if you're going T3 to make your goals easier.

As for the BEP housing, the last I check they were on back order about a month ago and I'm pretty sure they've gotten back on track now. If you want I'd contacted the BEP sales dept., The Turbo Trader or Tim's Turbos.

 

[airmail96]

I think they are actually about to make a new batch of mitsu flanged housing for the holsets.

 

[dsmusmc]

I dont understand how you think the hx40 spools slow OP. In a bolt on housing the 6 blade pro makes 20+psi @ 4100 rpm. Im really not for buying a used turbo unless i know the guy or can show me good proof. A new Holset hx40 can be bought just under a $1000 from MAperformance.

 

[JusMX141]

About 80% of the used HX35's I've disassembled from diesels showed little to no wear on the journal bearings at all. A HX35 from a diesel with 200K on it is in better shape than one from a gasoline applications with 2K on it; I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used HX35 that was well cared-for.

 

[deflator]

I dont understand how you think the hx40 spools slow OP. In a bolt on housing the 6 blade pro makes 20+psi @ 4100 rpm. Im really not for buying a used turbo unless i know the guy or can show me good proof. A new Holset hx40 can be bought just under a $1000 from MAperformance.

It certainly kicks most everything else to the curb as far as a spool time to power ratio goes, but I am ATX so spool is a concern. With the 2.3L, I figure I've only gained about 200rpm of spooling power over a 5speed 2L, but that is just a guess really.

That is why I can't decide between the -35 and -40. Either way, the car is going to be satisfying. But will I regret the -35's limits later, or will I regret the -40's slower spool later?

I should get one of each! budget

About 80% of the used HX35's I've disassembled from diesels showed little to no wear on the journal bearings at all. A HX35 from a diesel with 200K on it is in better shape than one from a gasoline applications with 2K on it; I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used HX35 that was well cared-for.

Does this go for the -40 as well? I've read some things about weak shafts in the early ones. If it didn't need a rebuilt, that would rock