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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
I say Hx35, with a choice of housings to tuneool and fit the popular manifolds as well as room to grow into it, the choice becomes rather simple in my eyes.. you cna get one so cheap too that it really is a no brainer... yhou can make over 500hp on one, yet they spool so fast that they are great for a 400hp goal..(think Mr Peepers)
buying a turbo that is based only on a current goal or because your engine can only take "X" hp is a bad way to think...if you build the engine in the future, why habve to buy a turo a 2nd time to get a little more power...

these things spool so fast that unless the power goals are out of the realm of the compressor wheels available or you need to stay stock apearing for a certain class i see no reason that as some one else said, these turbo's won't go down as oneof the all time best turbos for DSM's period.. I was reluctant to change, then the evidence was just o great and tempting, i had to try one when i was able to trade and bargain my way into a holset that i could transform into my current one which is a hx40/35 hybrid of sorts. It spools a faster than my older t3/4 57 trim (and about on par with the BB 50 trim i tried out ) yet makes killer power, and even though i'm running it at boosts that are still below it's peak efficiency it's still my favorite turbo tio date and i've had everything from the b16g to the 50 and 57 trims with 2 sized housings to play with and then the PTE6776 lg monster, and now the 40 8 blade comp wheel and housing tied to a 35 turbine in a t3 housing i machined to accept it and i think i'll be good for the rest o the time i own this car on this compressor. on the same point about not limitingturbo to current engine build...that was my thught on the 67mm (rated at 70 peak efficie, and possibly over 800 maxed) but trying to grown intpo that was a huge ordeal that would've needed almost every part of my combo changed like cams, intake, head work, ignition system, fuel system MAJOR upgrades and more

when i built the car i originially wanted 400hp to the wheels, but i built most every part of it to withstand room to grow and not be mazed out at that 400 (like my fuel system i designed for 600whp onthe line size choice) and before ya knew it i was over 450 breaking 500 (and the trans with breaking the 500barrier :D ) and now i'm thinking 550-575 would be a nice place to stop next :D
 
My favorite YouTube video good spoolin fp red. I think he was brake boostin tho.. enjoy.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvnSg2MJNvU]Cya Bye! - YouTube[/ame]
 
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^^^ My 5858 with a 30% blend of e85/93 oct is pushing well beyond the limits of the 2g maf at 30psi. Its a surprisingly stout turbo. Lag isnt THAT bad. Im getting mafraw readings near 3200khz LOL. So its probably around 55lbs(logs show upward of 60). Of course the OP wouldnt want to push it that hard on stock internals. Mine has held up well for the last 2500 miles, no problems at all. PTE JB's have a bad name though so take that into consideration.

On straight 93 oct i was able to get 25 psi with min knock.

Thing is, you cant really rebuild a PTE from what justin has said. Only PTE can do it. You can spend a few hunderd on a holset and a bit more for the BEP and youre set. The 5858 JB is around $900 bucks plus shipping iirc.
 
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Thing is, you cant really rebuild a PTE from what justin has said. Only PTE can do it. You can spend a few hunderd on a holset and a bit more for the BEP and youre set.
If whatever turbo you get from them uses a standard T04E parts kit you can at least replace the internals, but if you have wheel damage on one of their billet HP turbos you're fuct.

Concerning their larger-scale turbos, I ran into an issue with one of their old-school 6776's a while ago where they modded the rotating assembly to be free-floating with wider-than-stock journal bearings and a spacer that couldn't be bought anywhere. Just one way to get you to pay more than necessary for a simple rebuild.

I like the idea of staying with a manufacturer-based turbo (Garrett, Holset, Borg/Schwitzer) so you can buy parts literally anywhere.
 
Did you have an S200sx-59 or was it an S259?

S200sx (59/74)

It had the Bullseye tag, but all Bill did was have them put the bolt on housing and the polished "race cover."

Still had the original Airwerks Turbine wheel (74/64) and not the cut down (69/61) BEP unit.

So it fit all the available housings from Bolt on to the Airwerks 1.0x A/R T4 divided I had last. Great turbo.

Its sold in a ton of combinations and names, so you can get any flavor of comp wheel in one of two housings, and two different turbine wheels in something like 9 available housings from Bolt-On DSM to 1.22 T4.
 
S200sx (59/74)

It had the Bullseye tag, but all Bill did was ......

Hey, that's some interesting stuff.
So it sounds like you bought it from Bullseye.
You had them put on the Bullseye stainless? .55 a/r? single scroll turbine housing that has DSM style inlet and outlet?

And you had them put on the compressor cover that Bullseye makes (anti-surge inlet). Was this housing about 7" across the outside? - same housing they use on the regular S259?

I don't see anything on the Bullseye web site about the s200sx series - so I guess you called them up and told them what you wanted?

Do you have any conclusions about the differences (response and power) between the .55 a/r DSM housing versus the 1 a/r T4 divided housing on this turbo?

What did you use for a manifold with the divided housing?

Sorry I have to quit, seems like I used up all the question marks.

I honestly thought the red would spool too late for a street car. Is there not much spool difference between the red and green?

Well this is what I can tell you about that question.
The red and green both come with an 8cm turbine housing, so no difference there.
The compressor wheels are only about 3 mm different in diameter, so not much difference in size or weight on those.

The main difference related to spool would be the turbine wheels: red with a 67mm OD wheel, green with a 65mm OD turbine wheel.

I asked Amber at FP some questions about these turbine wheels during a phone call. She called the 67mm a "TD06H". She called the 65mm a "TD06".
So I said, are these turbine wheels actually made by MHI? She said, well, no.
Now these guys don't like to use the word "copy". But I think it's pretty clear that FP makes copies of the MHI turbine wheels for these turbos. They are probably pretty good copies - they certainly seem to work pretty good. There are a lot of these things on evos making great horsepower.

Anyway, whatever you could say about the spool difference between the TD06 and the TD06H turbine wheels, that would be most of your answer. I think it would not be a whole lot of difference.
 
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Hey, that's some interesting stuff.
So it sounds like you bought it from Bullseye.
You had them put on the Bullseye stainless? .55 a/r? single scroll turbine housing that has DSM style inlet and outlet?

And you had them put on the compressor cover that Bullseye makes (anti-surge inlet). Was this housing about 7" across the outside? - same housing they use on the regular S259?

I don't see anything on the Bullseye web site about the s200sx series - so I guess you called them up and told them what you wanted?

Do you have any conclusions about the differences (response and power) between the .55 a/r DSM housing versus the 1 a/r T4 divided housing on this turbo?

What did you use for a manifold with the divided housing?

Sorry I have to quit, seems like I used up all the question marks.

Well, because of the work they do with converting the BW units to the BEP versions they likely have a bunch of the airwerks S200-S500 CHRAs in stock.

When I called I described to Bill what I needed, and that I was likely going to be changing out different housings.. knowing that when I outgrew the S259 I was going to be moving up to something like an S366 or S472 in a full T4 for my next project (ended up with an HX52, which is in the ball park of the S400sx family)

I started with the stainless .55A/R DSM bolt-on turbine housing, single entry volute and the smaller diameter polished anti-surge compressor cover. The turbo came to my door in the BEP box and foam, with the BEP tag

You can see on the site that they list both turbine wheel options along side the various T3 housing options. I ended up switching to the .70 Open T3, and then a .82A/R T3 divided with 4-bolt discharge from AGP, and finally the 1.0A/R divided T4 housing from BEP.

I ran the same peak boost on all 4, and was able to move almost the same amount of airflow on each.. but the torque curves changed dramatically.. and I was able to run leaner with more timing on the bigger housings.

The spool penalty was not huge either maybe 5-600rpm between the bolt on and T4 housings, but I was running a manifold with relatively small runners on the T4 housing, like 1.375" ID if I am remembering correctly.

The Bolt-on housing would be my favorite for a completely stock head/cam/manifold/shortblock DSM, hands down. Like an 18G on crack. It pulled hard through 8k, and started to fall off shortly after.

The T4 pulled hard through 9k, occasionally so hard I would hit my then 9250 rev-limiter. It was definitely making more power, as a function of the tune and the drop in parasitic losses to excessive drive pressure. How much more would be tough to say because the car never saw a dyno and never got to go to the track in that form.

70-90 and 80-100 times would tell me more alongside airflow but those logs are now 3+ years old and most are on a laptop that has since stopped working. I was also logging backpressure vs. boost through the EGR ports with two MAP sensors.

Not sure what brand the T4 mani was, it may have been an ebay unit. It was given to me by a friend getting out of the DSM game and has since been sold when I sold the turbo to fund the new setup.

FWIW I was able to max out the compressor on the bolt on housing, that doesn't mean I was taking full advantage of that airflow though.
 
You can see on the site that they list both turbine wheel options along side the various T3 housing options. I ended up switching to the .70 Open T3, and then a .82A/R T3 divided with 4-bolt discharge from AGP, and finally the 1.0A/R divided T4 housing from BEP.

Did you notice how many blades the turbine wheel had? Was it 11 or 10?



Here's a pic of what the Borg Warner "S200SX-59" looks like with the Borg Warner compressor housing. Full-Race is calling it a S200SX-8070. Racing Parts Solution is calling it by 3 different names - probably so you'd find their site with a search using just about any of the names you would think of for this turbo!


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Did you notice how many blades the turbine wheel had? Was it 11 or 10?



Here's a pic of what the Borg Warner "S200SX-59" looks like with the Borg Warner compressor housing. Full-Race is calling it a S200SX-8070. Racing Parts Solution is calling it by 3 different names - probably so you'd find their site with a search using just about any of the names you would think of for this turbo!


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]

Honestly, I sold it so long ago at this point.. I don't recall.

There's a dozen or more versions of just the 59mm S200sx alone LOL Different covers, housings, turbine wheels etc.
 
It almost seems like bating when people even ask about an ebay turbo anymore. Im not trying to be mean but cmon, you can not be serious. Theres a million threads about ebay turbos on this site and probably any 'scene site. Get a real turbo and save yourself the headache and money.
 
It almost seems like bating when people even ask about an ebay turbo anymore. Im not trying to be mean but cmon, you can not be serious. Theres a million threads about ebay turbos on this site and probably any 'scene site. Get a real turbo and save yourself the headache and money.

What site do you recommend for a daily driver? My budget is around $800 for the turbo. I checked a couple links from this site but it seems like identical turbos range from $500 to $1800 bucks, I can't tell the difference.
 
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Other than the fact the turbocharger is telling you it's a turbocharger, I don't see anything of real concern. A quick Google Search revealed a lot of threads and reviews of why you should avoid an Ebay turbo. I do not see any mods in your mod list so not knowing what you currently have on the car makes it hard to make a suggestion but if you are looking for a 16g my suggestion would be to search the classifieds and find a real mhi 16g to install on your car. The last time I looked there were at least 3 for around the same price as the ebay one.
 
This question has been answered many times in this thread. You might want to consider sticking with the 14b and cranking the boost (with supporting mods of course), or possibly upgrade to any variant of the 16g if that isn't doing it for you.
 
^ Small, big, or Evo 3? Be sure to check the serial number to make sure your getting what you pay for. People seem to think every 16g is an "Evo 3".
 
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