Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[ErikTande]

^ Small, big, or Evo 3? Be sure to check the serial number to make sure your getting what you pay for. People seem to think every 16g is an "Evo 3".

What should I look for in the serial number?

Also, my goal is a street car that can get under 12s in the quarter mile. Will a big 16g get me there with other supporting mods (injectors, cams and gears, intercooler, etc).

Thanks again!

 

[Bud92gsx]

What should I look for in the serial number?

Also, my goal is a street car that can get under 12s in the quarter mile. Will a big 16g get me there with other supporting mods (injectors, cams and gears, intercooler, etc).

Thanks again!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/313105-16g-serial-numbers.html

:Thumb:

 

[JusMX141]

Need some opinions guys. Which comp wheel/cover should i get to compliment my evo 8 10.5 hotside?

Turbo Compressor Housing TD05HR 25g Wheel EVO 9 Anti | eBay

Or

Turbo Compressor Housing TD05HR 20g Wheel EVO 4 8 | eBay

Or machine my comp cover for a reverse 20g wheel?

If you're not upgrading the turbine, do NOT use the 25G.

A 25G compressor (60.5mm/78mm) is nearly the size of a GT35R (61mm/82mm). Putting that large of a compressor on a TD05H turbine will result in a surge-monster that goes through thrust plates like toilet paper.

 

[Cdc1221]

Im glad i asked then i like how you put that. And thanks. I just want a turbo good for 400 hp on pump or possibly e85 without breaking the bank. And my 16g is healthy, only 2k on it so far

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Alright, so my engine is taking a crap on me, as well as the turbo. I found a complete 6 bolt built for $2500. I'm gonna buy that and a new turbo. I figured if I'm spending that kind of money, I might as well do it right and go for some decent numbers. I am looking for numbers in the 400's maybe high 300's not really looking to break 500 yet. This will be a daily driver, so that will need to be taken into consideration. There are so many turbos out there it is kinda overwhelming. Chad from MKC, a local builder, recommended something like a 57 trim. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks in advance

 

[MrNeedles]

You should look into something like a 6262.

 

[Leonthefaded]

Why don't you fix the motor you have and then have your turbo rebuilt?

As far as getting a turbocharger for high HP numbers, you need more than just a turbocharger.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

It would be quicker to swap in an engine thats already built. Im a college student, and I work, so I really need a car. A little time without a car will be okay, I'm just not trying to go overboard. I'm ready to go bigger than an ebay 16g which is whats on there now. My car is at the shop now and is halfway taken apart already. We figured we would just go ahead and fix the problems now. (was originally in there for an exhaust install)

 

[Leonthefaded]

It would be quicker to swap in an engine thats already built. Im a college student, and I work, so I really need a car. A little time without a car will be okay, I'm just not trying to go overboard. I'm ready to go bigger than an ebay 16g which is whats on there now. My car is at the shop now and is halfway taken apart already. We figured we would just go ahead and fix the problems now. (was originally in there for an exhaust install)

I hope you didn't go in there for an exhaust install and get told that your engine is taking a crap on you and that your turbo needs to be replaced versus you yourself verifying this.

I guess replacing the engine would be faster, and better especially if the engine your swaping into your car is already "built". Why not try a 20g turbocharger? I'm not a turbocharger expert by any means but if I was going for mid or high 300's I would use that.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

We went to the shop and there is oil coming from two of the cylinders, going into the exhaust manifold. And I have physically seen the oil inside the turbo, and the valves are looking pretty nasty.

 

[GalantTuner10]

probably rings went or cylinders wore enough for the rings to no longer rotate etc, but with a new motor you figure no surprises not a bad idea just a lighter wallet. as for turbo selection it really depends on tuning and fuel you will have. if you want high 300s i would say a 6152 would be a very good bet or anything around that range. yes it is a 35r but reasonable spool and you wont be pushing the turbo too hard to get there. i rebuilt one for a friend recently and its on his stock bottom 1g with 272 cams and he spools it pretty well. if you want cheaper options maybe an old school green or red or a TD05 or TD06 20g. like i said budget and fuel mods will be the factor accounting into the decision. I myself am looking for the same power goal on my stock bottom 2.4 with a built head and will be running a 6176 in a bolt on housing.

 

[Leonthefaded]

We went to the shop and there is oil coming from two of the cylinders, going into the exhaust manifold. And I have physically seen the oil inside the turbo, and the valves are looking pretty nasty.

Sounds pretty bad

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Yeah, so we figured that putting on the exhaust and pretending we didn't see anything was a bad idea. It will come back to haunt us if we don't just fix it now.

 

[compression]

Hello, looking at two options for turbo upgrades!

First, Brand new BW366

Price: $725.00 obo shipped
Payment methods: Cash if local or paypal
Part description: I'm selling a Brand New unused Borg Warner S366 T4 divided .91 A/R. I'm still up in the air as to which turbo I want to run. So as I change my mind someone might as well benefit from an awesome turbo. Any questions email text or call.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/snomangsx901237/Rosario Racing/IMG_20120411_134749.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/snomangsx901237/Rosario Racing/IMG_20120411_134826.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/snomangsx901237/Rosario Racing/IMG_20120411_134954.jpg

Second is a pte 71gts, with a billet wheel!

Hello, I've got a PT71-GTS .81 AR turbo (non-BB) used about 8k miles. It's got the pretty aluminum billet compressor wheel and a polished housing, normal cover.
I've had no problems with this turbocharger. Spooled fine, makes power and little shaft play, and car never blue smoke out the rear. Only reason I pulled it off is I'm changing entire setup on my car. I made 764whp on pump/meth and only ran it at 650whp on the street (no track duty).
$695 shipped/insured. thanks!

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Theres more pictures of this one, just on my phone.

I would think the obvious choice would be the pte 71 for power, but my only concern is if i wanted to run in an event, alot of the reasonable classes restrict inducer size to 67.9mm.. but besides that it is the better option right?

These are off of supra's btw, if that matters. And i am running a non-divided punishment racing manifold. But i will soon have it Front Facing.

 

[Selling4G63TParts]

I was hitting 11's with a big 16g. I had a huge FMIC, 750 cc injectors, 1gen throttle body swap, greddy type r bov, 3" exhaust with cat delete, profec B spec II boost controller, chipped plug n play fuel management system (cant rememeber the brand but the damn thing was like 800 bucks), evo exhaust manifold.... Im pretty sure that was it but that car went off of grizzly peak in the berkeley hills in 2008. I frankenstined my Talon out of what was left from my GSX. IT was right around 300 awhp thanks to the guys at full function tech in Union City, CA.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Well, here's an update. The person I was going to buy the engine from had a real shaddy story about it, had no papers on it, and claimed the thing was very well built (new rods, pistons, head studs, rod bolts, etc.) So we said screw it an have decided to just get my head rebuilt, and save a ton of money. We are going to get the head rebuilt with set of either 264/272 or 272/272 cams. Everything ele will be about stock. My horsepower goals have changed a bit, and I will now be happy with any numbers in the 300's. With a stock engine, with the exception of some cams, and my new horsepower goals, what would be a good turbo. I was thinking should just stay with the 20g, or could I get my desired numbers out of a 16g? Let me know.

Thanks

 

[Selling4G63TParts]

I ran 300+ awhp all day long using a big 16g turbo, bunch of bolt ons, boost controller and DSM link. The only real internal mod was the 2600 clutch but other than that the block itself was stock inside. Getting past that will take internal work. I would start by trying to reach the 300 club then if you still want to push it (as we all do) then proceed.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I ran 300+ awhp all day long using a big 16g turbo, bunch of bolt ons, boost controller and DSM link. The only real internal mod was the 2600 clutch but other than that the block itself was stock inside. Getting past that will take internal work. I would start by trying to reach the 300 club then if you still want to push it (as we all do) then proceed.

Dude really? 6 bolt, 7 bolt sohc, 4g64 all can go well past the 300 mark without internal work.
KC, if you want low to mid 300s 16g is fine, if you want to get closer to 400 bastard 20g or real 20g would be better.

 

[Miasma]

Even an EVO 3 Big 16g would be good for those numbers with fast spool. Try comparing maps between it and a 20g and you should be able to figure out whats best for your application.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

So what you guys are telling me is, a completely stock 4g63 can handle well over 300hp. I for some reason was thinking that more more than 300hp was bad. Something with the head gasket, but I don't know where I got that. If the 4g63 can handle around 400hp I'd rather just get the 20g, so when the time comes, I can turn it up a notch and try to join the 400hp club. You know what I mean. I'd rather buy one turbo than two. But as you guys said, I will try to just join the 300hp club for now. 300awhp will be a pretty fun dd. I'll update the tread when I finally get everything put together.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Yes it can. Just upgrade to arp head studs and won't need to worry about the headgasket

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Are arp head studs a larger diameter than stock studs?

 

[compression]

Anybody have input on my post above? Im going to be purchasing today, i dont want to regret my purchase!

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Are arp head studs a larger diameter than stock studs?

No so longs as you don't mix uo 6&7 bolts

 

[Bladetwister]

Alright, so my engine is taking a crap on me, as well as the turbo. I found a complete 6 bolt built for $2500. I'm gonna buy that and a new turbo. I figured if I'm spending that kind of money, I might as well do it right and go for some decent numbers. I am looking for numbers in the 400's maybe high 300's not really looking to break 500 yet. This will be a daily driver, so that will need to be taken into consideration. There are so many turbos out there it is kinda overwhelming. Chad from MKC, a local builder, recommended something like a 57 trim. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks in advance

For anyone worried about the Garrett 57 trim compressor not performing well, be advised that the GT35 non-ball bearing Garrett turbo compressor wheel is a direct replacement with better flow numbers if you find one with a bore through style fastening method as opposed to boreless. If you can't find a bore through style, I have successfully machined the compressor nut off of OEM GT35 non ball bearing compressor wheels now for many years as well. I realize that these GT35 comp wheels are hard to come by because Garrett does not sell it's GT Turbo line-up of individual piece parts but I can find them. Someone in a previous post regarding these 57 trim's was speculating on the swept nature of the 57 trim comp wheel. It is referred to as a BC-18 feature from an engineering standpoint. It refers to "Backward curve" @ 18 degree cut on the blade. I do not know if this is something that is assigned to compressor wheels but it is assigned ti turbine wheels @ Garrett.

im new to turbos and want a good turbo for a daily but still want it to pull pretty hard any help

Is your car an automatic or stick car? If it is auto, pretty good chance you came with a TD04 instead of a TD05. The stick car made more power due to it's slightly larger turbo.